dontasciime

Dodgy media on a not so good Asus writer. Change you media to verbatim MKM-001-00 burn @2.4x then change your writer if you encounter problems or update drivers

I have a problem with ImgBurn is this the right place ?

360 will play divx try putting it onto dvd-r as a test with the *.whatever file extension in root of dvd

See the button in your picture[bottom right] post which says [Copy To Clipboard], press it then paste into a reply on the forum.

You must like spam putting your email Addy's in an open forum anyway check out the guides section in this forum there maybe something in there or maybe try the search or even search in google.

It does not mean what you think but thanks for the laugh See below it's down to your media the dvd writer you have might not help either so make sure you use verbatim MKM-001-00 @2.4x http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000

EVEN if they burnt they would not work on ya 360 as layerbreak would be in wrong place look at log it warned you about layerbreak. You need Verbatim MKM-001-00 blanks this is not a very good sign either do not use the computer or download anything or scan for viruses etc whilst burning. defrag your hard drives and then scan you hard drives for errors as well, ticking top box automatically fix file system errors , not the scan for bad sectors, not unless you have lots of time or know fine well the hd is on its way out.

your using the wrong discs you need dual layer + not minus

Maybe. How do I know or more importantly how will you know if the disc is worth keeping as you have not verified it. Your comments are not necessarry about no need to eject. It's there live with it. You have been told how to stop it now lets move on. Burn disc + verify = play [100%] Burn disc - verify = ????????? Maybe what? You have not known what is good at all. sorry I cannot understand a word you say and you do not listen so please no more

Yes you are right and I did forget to put a smilie on. I apologise.

Not being funny but are you trying to windup people, congratulations you have fmo. Maybe. How do I know or more importantly how will you know if the disc is worth keeping as you have not verified it. Your comments are not necessarry about no need to eject. It's there live with it. You have been told how to stop it now lets move on. Burn disc + verify = play [100%] Burn disc - verify = ?????????

Don't forget to try burning @8x (although you should be able to burn at 16x if drive/media/combo was working) and trying another set of disc's like TYG02 for 8x and TYG03 for 16 search google for resetdma.vbs if you are using standard ms ide/sata drivers

You would only really need to change the sata port of any sata dvd writer , you should follow how to remove the controller from FAQ though(this is software wise not something your physically touch remove etc) but first change SATA/IDE cable your samsung writer is on for an 80 wire one[iDE] in your case though this would be change SATA cable and do not conenct up to jmicron sata port.

Thanks for the instructions. I understand what you said. But, I just do not understand why the disc should be ejected one time before operation completed. Can't the ImgBurn check or read the disc without ejection before the end of the operation or it will affect the burn quality? What is the difference in checking the disc between the disc ejection and without disc ejection? What burning effect will be on such a difference? Can you explain it? lol It has been explained and you where given a link to read about this option. No laptop drive can insert disc again after eject it has to be your finger to close tray This is how it works in desktop PC , you put blank in you write to it when it has finished writing the tray opens and then automatically closes again to start the next STAGE the VERIFY stage. Once finished verifying the disc is ready to be put in a case or plastic sleeve box etc. (as a successful burn*) OK back to the point where it ejects the disc after finishing WRITING to it, ImgBurn ejects the disc as part of the whole process so that you know when disc spins and is recognised by writer and verifies that the disc was a complete success. On a laptop however it never closes the tray after cycle Co's thats what laptop drives do, they wait for user to close tray again manually. Look at it this way, find a disc you know your drive cannot initialise pop it in and close tray it does not initialise right, sometimes when you burn a disc and the tray is not cycled the disc in tray appears to have written successfully but it has not and cycling the tray would catch that problem and show your disc to be a failure at that point. Not cycling the tray at that point would lead you to believe your data wrote and is capable of being read back by the drive or any other drive when that is not TRUE, you have a failed burn.

IMO you have DMA issues(not in normal sense whereby you write slow) and you should follow the FAQ on fixing them by removing controller etc then try to burn @8x even trying another brand of disc's as your writer might just simply hate those disc's or they may be fake Saying as your write was quite high with errors though check for a dodgy IDE or Sata cable. Also chipset driver issues. So look to update the chipset drivers or remove them for IDE storage etc or make sure not set onto ide whereby you can only have 1 atapi device and maybe you got another on there also or if it was a sata device to try another sata port (non raid)

Try the guides section http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showforum=4

Happy Birthday

Sorry but I think your ears are maybe broken or your eyes Look into how samsung drives use commands to booktype.

In other words it is their driver at fault [edit] or your sata port is from a different manufacturer to the other (therefore it's hardware fault), why should L_UK fix their issue. Do you fix your neighbours car for free when it breaks or has a service everytime ? You can argue as much as you like that your system is not at fault but default drivers written for operating system install[default] do not guarantee they are working 100% as they should. L_UK does not make up the commands the program issues/sends to the drive, they are all documented and are part of a standard SET that do certain things when issued, search google on mmc/scsi/ide/sata etc. How your Ide/Sata/Motherboard/Chipset/Controller/Driver/Operating System/Drive receives these commands and acts upon them is down to your Ide/Sata/etc commands often get blocked by screwed up systems/ dodgy chipsets/ buggy chipsets/drivers/ rubbish bios settings/ incorrectly set up bios/ too many variables. Samsung drives are odd anyways @ reporting book type.

1st Time http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000 2nd Time http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000 3rd Time http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000

Those 2 games work perfectly well on Verbatim 16x [YUDEN000 T03] DVD+R burnt @ 4x and verified on a Benq1650/55 with booktype set to DVD-ROM

btw which recent games do not work on +R on the Wii as all of mine work on verbatim dvd+r @4x set to dvd - rom maybe put your asus writer into a usb enclosure or buy a cable from ebay http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trk...=usb2+ide+cable That can be troublesome if the chipset does not like chipset in drive or pc etc but maybe worth a try or return your asus as faulty and get another brand.

The idea is to not be able to notice it. Not always possible with different home dvd players though.

Prevent it or at least narrow the odds by making sure your hard drives are error free scan them for errors all partitions and fix file system errors, also try not to read DVD/CD media that is obviously very badly scratched covered in jam, smudges fingerprints god knows what. Also make sure you never badly shutdown a PC by switching it off directly at wall, switching off by PSU power switch pressing and holding the power button for 4 seconds , or pressing reset whilst operating system is running. If and once in awhile there is nothing else you can do other than to shutdown badly after major crash or psu goes off etc, first thing to do when powered back on is to check all hard drives attached for errors.