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Everything posted by jeff_nz

  1. Many LG drives have a "feature" called Silent Play (some kind of riplock) which prevents them from reading at high speeds.... it's nice if you're playing a DVD as it's very quiet and doesn't randomly spin up to high rpm's like other drives commonly do but does have the disadvantage of being slower at ripping DVD's and, as you've described, reading them back during verify. If you'd burnt more than 1 GB to the disc the read speed would probably have had time to build up higher than 3x (but still slower than other drives). If this feature bothers you there are modified third party firmwares available or you can use something like MCSE to patch the original firmware yourself with only the options you want changed like the read speed limitation, just be aware that using unofficial firmware will void your warranty and I don't know how much you'd actually gain from using them.
  2. Years ago I upgraded the firmware on a Philips dvd player I had (and if memory serves correct I used a CD-RW disc) so I just had a look back at the instructions they provided. One thing that stands out to me is they specify to use IS09660 Level 2 file system and by default ImgBurn uses Level 1. Now I realise this is for a Philips DVD player and not a Panasonic BD player and the instructions, and therefore requirements, are basically irrelevant so don't read too much into it but I thought I'd throw them out there for you anyway, for what it's worth... perhaps it can offer some further ideas if you are still persisting with a freeware solution.
  3. Hi, You asked several times if 99% is a good result and logically it could only be better if you got 100% but as Cynthia has alluded to, the real question is how reliable are the results from your Samsung. You can find more information on quality scanning and also how to use CD/DVD Speed with your Samsung in the following post if you're interested.... http://club.cdfreaks.com/f105/mini-faq-sam...07/#post1803665 ".... Some drives give good results (comparable to other well-known scanning drives), some others are questionable. So take the scans with a grain of salt unless you were able to verify them with another drive like a Liteon or Benq DVDRW."
  4. Not according to the log... I 19:02:38 Average Write Rate: 1,385 KB/s (8.0x) - Maximum Write Rate: 1,410 KB/s (8.2x) If you set the burn speed to 4x the drive is going to ignore it, because it's not supported, and will automatically choose the closest speed it does support. I 18:52:59 Destination Media Type: CD-R (Disc ID: 97m15s17f) (Speeds: 8x, 16x, 24x, 32x, 40x, 48x) Hey guys, so the PIO/DMA issue can apply to SATA drives too? I must admit I know nothing about SATA optical drives, never had one, so just curious but I assume from what you say it must?
  5. Further to Lightning UK!'s comment about your drive being pretty ancient now, I think you'll find it only supports burning DVD-R at 4x maximum anyway, so whether you choose 8x or 16x makes no difference, the fastest it will burn them is 4x. Next time you insert a disc, with ImgBurn in write mode, look at the info panel for 'Supported Write Speeds'.
  6. Does this help? http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtop...ost&p=67679
  7. If you use Paint, don't save your screen capture as a Bitmap though, preferably choose PNG from the dropdown box (or JPEG).
  8. Two of the common recommended Media ID's for Verbatim discs are MCC (single layer) and MKM (double layer)... Mitsubishi Kagaku Media Co (MKM) is part of the Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation (MCC) group of companies and is the parent company of Verbatim so you could say they have a close relationship. As blutach said though, there seems to be a consensus that the made in India ones are not up to the same standard as discs from the Singapore plant. Verbatim also use some other MID's including TY (very good) and many of their CD's are manufactured by CMC (average).
  9. I think you'd be better to follow LIGHTNING UK!'s advice above and only install the codecs/filters you need, as you need them, rather than using a shotgun type approach.... but that's just me.
  10. Hmm... I think I can answer my own question. I just ran a quick test using madflac and the burnt files were identical to the originals. It wasn't a very extensive test, I only used 3 tracks but I guess it's still conclusive?
  11. Did you ever solve the problem mentioned in that thread of files decoded with madflac were not identical to the originals or is the DC-Bass Source filter still the only one that give bit identical results with ImgBurn? I only ask because as of your last post in that thread it appears to be unresolved (though I can't imagine you'd be recommending it now if that's still the case).
  12. Thanks Cynthia. While searching I came across a post of yours from earlier this year that you use original firmware for your nec, but I take it you've had a change of heart since then. Any particular reason?
  13. You assume correct. Thanks for the link, I'll keep them in mind although they're way beyond my meagre budget and I hate to think what the postage would be, even from Oz. Your scan is certainly impressive though! Thanks for going to the trouble, it gives me an idea of what this new drive is capable of. I have discovered an online supplier here in nz that import some TYG03 (16x) discs at least, but perhaps they're not as highly regarded as the TYG02 discs? Anyway I'll see how the Verbatim MCC 03RG20 discs go first since they're available everywhere and inexpensive by comparison.
  14. Thanks cornholio, that was a fast reply. I've always been curious to try some TY disc's but unfortunately they're as rare as hen's teeth around here, so I might pick up some Verbatim -R's next time and give them a try.... I'm just so used to using +R's all these years it's going to be outside my comfort zone, lol.
  15. Hi and Merry Christmas to everyone! I just got a new Sony NEC Optiarc AD-7200 drive and don't know much about them except I've read they're excellent burners and also seen them recommended here, so I was wondering if I could get some advice or feedback from those of you that have one about the media you prefer to use with the Optiarc (+R, -R etc)... or maybe I should be asking what type of media the drive prefers? My previous writers had automatic bitsetting so I'd just buy +R discs (usually MCC 004) and think nothing more about it, but I understand the Optiarc only supports bitsetting of +R DL media and not single layer discs so I'm unsure what would be the best way to go now... Looking forward to hearing your experiences and recommendations, as always.
  16. When running ImgBurn in portable mode I don't experience this bug you're seeing so it's probably a side-effect of using ThinApp. BTW, I don't think you'll save much space over the 1.89 MB ImgBurn occupies (on my flash drive) by using that app since the ImgBurn executables are already UPX compressed anyway.
  17. I think you attached the wrong screenshot. By default Application Data is a hidden folder. If you've never enabled "Show hidden files and folders" in Folder Options > View tab then that's why you can't see it (although it's there). Anyway the quickest way to find the folder is directly from ImgBurn's Help menu > ImgBurn Graph Data...
  18. The fastest way to find anything is Google... having said that, the best place for info on optical drives is CDFreaks. Anyway, as far as bitsetting goes, if I understand this Review correctly, it appears your Sony supports automatic bitsetting of +R media out of the box. Why don't you burn a +R disc and check the booktype afterwards, you possibly don't have to do anything. As far as patching and crossflashing goes, it's an advanced thing and you should be prepared to assume any risks involved. For that reason, and the fact it's a new drive, I'm hesitant to suggest it. Maybe you'll find your new drive is just fine the way it is. Why don't you give it a chance first?
  19. It should also be noted that ImgBurn constantly monitors and updates the speed during the burn so you know what the drive is really doing... most other burning software simply report the speed that was selected, not the actual speed at any given time (thereby giving you the false impression the drive is burning faster than it really is). That's probably why Pioneer said the drive should burn at a constant speed, they were only thinking of what the bundled software is capable of.
  20. It's a rebadged Samsung 202 drive but probably more expensive because of the sony name... Any new drive you buy will probably use a similar write strategy to the one you have, as has been said already (which is a good thing actually). Before doing anything, may I suggest you attach one of the .ibg files from your Pioneer that has been requested several times? You can find them from Imgburn Help > ImgBurn Graph Data...
  21. It's probably due to Running OPC... many modern drives utilize this feature (under different names) to improve the quality of their burns. With my BenQ it's called WOPC (walking optimal power control). Your Pioneer is apparently a rebadged Asus (because of LightScribe) and they call it FlextraSpeed. I also get similar speeds to you @ 8x BTW, you can see this phenomenon clearly if you look at the Graph Data results as Cynthia described.
  22. You might want to take a look at a free program called DriveImage XML. It can create an Image of any partition/drive. Optionally it can use compression to save space and also split the output image into manageable parts for easy burning to cd/dvd afterwards. That's where ImgBurn comes in, as you can then use Build mode to burn the data files created by DriveImage XML to your disc(s).
  23. Perhaps MuxMan could be a simple solution for you? It will accept 24/96 PCM files as audio input, and maybe you can create a bmp file from the cover image (suitably resized) as a still image, that will be displayed while playing, for the video input.... just a thought. (after muxing add the ifo/bup/vob files to ImgBurn in Build mode)
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