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Rincewind

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Posts posted by Rincewind

  1. It could just be that you have a few bad discs out of your spindle of discs, it happens. I've had 3 out of 25 of TDK +R DL (Ritek) discs fail. All I can say is try another disc, but also you should consider getting better quality discs. Verbatim discs (disc ID MCC), stay away from the life-series though as those are CMC-MAG discs.

     

    Other than that, make sure your drive has the latest firmware and also try cleaning it with a cleaning disc, and see if that also makes any difference.

  2. In theory it should work, then again set top players tend to be very picky. After all you can burn a miniDVD, (DVD VIDEO_TS onto a CD-R) that is of course if the content fits on a CD-R in the first place. I have burned such a disc but my set top dvd player tries to read it but then just rejects the disc.

     

    And of course I made sure to use MODE1/2048. I guess you will just have to go ahead and try it and see, and also it would be a good idea to use a BD-RE so you don't waste a disc in case your player doesn't like it.

  3. I searched google for any kind of rw-dl media both - and +, but turned up nothing. I guess it just never materialised. I think multi-layered recording is rather complex enough, and perhaps making it rewritable would be taking a huge risk. I would imagine there would be a high rate of write failures, and perhaps even said drives would have issues reading them.

     

    P.S. my drive supports reading and writing -RW DL, but not +RW DL...

     

    P.P.S Perhaps bluray might offer multi layered rewritable, but I can't really imagine who would use it.

  4. Update to imgburn 2.5.5, also see if there are any firmware updates to your drive.

     

    Also your first log:

    W 22:05:31 Write Speed Miscompare! - Wanted: 3.324 KB/s (2,4x), Got: 5.540 KB/s (4x)

     

    Obviously 2.4x isn't an option, and your second log you changed to 4x. Try 6x or 8x (if your drive supports it) since burning at a lower rate doesn't really produce a better burn, and actually sometimes burning faster is usually better.

  5. Setting AWS to max will just burn at the fastest speed possible, but there are two factors: The media in question, and of course your drive. The media might support speeds up to lets say 8x, but your drive might not for RE media.

     

    Also is there any reason why you are using a rewritable disc for a movie? Usually players don't always play nice with RW media, even though it is claimed that said players support them (but not very well obviously). Plus the more you use the same disc the more chances for read errors from your player.

     

    Why not make your life easier and use a WORM (Write Once Read Many times) disc instead?

  6. If you are getting a write speed miscompare, then it means your drive simply cannot burn at that speed, even though the media supports burning at 1x. Also burning slower does not mean a better burn anyways. Change the AWS to the minimum burn speed that your burner supports for BD-R media.

     

    If you can only burn at 2.4x for the slowest, then at least set AWS for 2.4x for that media, but like I said there is no real reason to burn so slowly, and actually faster burns usually produces better burns anyways.

  7. It is not a problem, but it appears the drive you have cannot write your media 2.4x so it is automatically sped up to 4x. Also the idea behind burning slower produces a better burn is a myth, just get it out of your head. It is best to burn faster with DVD media anyways.

     

    Also remember to verify your burn once burning finished.

  8. Imgburn itself doesn't care what you burn, but you are right you do not have a fully compliant DVD image, which requires IFO and BUP files. You need to go back to whatever program used and reauther your dvd properly. Only then will you be able to burn a proper DVD-Video disc.

  9. I am at the moment unsure about your firmware either, hopefully someone more experienced can help you with that one. Also try letting imgburn send you to the right(?) page hopefully, by going into any mode, and click Tools -> Drive -> Check for firmware updates, and see what page that loads.

     

    Well as for this log, it burned and finished successfully but you didn't verify your burn though which is something you should always do.

     

    W 17:46:21 Waiting for buffers to recover... (LBA: 559776)

    W 17:46:25 Waiting for hard disk activity to reach threshold level...

     

    You either are having DMA issues here, or you are doing other things while burning. Try not to multi-task while burning because that can take too much resources away from imgburn.

     

    Also:

    I 17:40:11 Write Speed Successfully Set! - Effective: 3 324 KB/s (2,4x)

     

    Your discs support higher speeds, you should go ahead and burn at faster speeds. The idea behind burning slower produces a better burn is a myth, and sometimes in some cases a faster burn is what you need.

     

    Other than that, I am not sure what else I can say. Since technically imgburn did finish successfully you just have to try your game on your console now and see if it accepts it. Just next time remember to verify your burns, good luck.

  10. I don't know what high waved is, but that doesn't matter anyways as imgburn doesn't care what you do to any kind of data, it just burns whatever you tell it to burn. If you are having trouble burning your games, make sure your firmware to your drive is up to date and try again since you are using the preferred +R DL Verbatim media.

     

    Also next time if you have trouble burning give us a log. We can only help you with burning issues though, once it is burned successfully it is up to you if you have problems actually running the game since that is not really our problem.

  11. if you mean volume labels then no. That would imply that there is a filesystem and audio cds technically do not really have a filesystem. The best you can do is add CD-TEXT to your tracks, but that also means that your player has to be able to read CD-TEXT.

  12. Well only other tip is to use +R DL discs so you can choose the best layer break position in your movies (imgburn will present you with a choice before burning so you can preview your choice), and don't forget to check the seamless option. See this guide for making an image, or to burn directly, see this guide.

  13. Good thing you didn't open them, also a reminder make sure you get the Verbatim with the Disc ID MKM-xxx-x kind. Hopefully the store where you got them does have Verbatims, if not don't bother getting any non Verbatim +r dl discs.

  14. The vital difference between -r dl and +r dl, is that the layer break for -r dl CANNOT be arbitrarily changed, so L0 (first layer) must be filled up completely. Ergo they are useless for XBox360 where the layer break is changed resulting in L0 (layer 1) not being fully utilised.

     

    Essentially for 360 backups you are out of luck with -r dl. Sorry

  15. No such files are hosted here, only the imgburn program itself. If you don't have recovery disks for your notebook, contact the manufacturer and see if they will send you one or you will just have to buy a copy of Windows. Since you can't even boot your system we cannot really help you much since this is not strictly related to imgburn sorry.

  16. Hrm, so now TDK is using CMC-MAG as well? I also don't recall this variation of CMC-MAG (AM3)

     

    I guess even CMC-MAG has levels of quality too then? The only form I have ever encountered was CMC MAG-M01-00 and never had any trouble burning with it.

     

    Be that as it may, next time go for the Verbatim (NOT LIFE SERIES) discs that have the ID MCC (single layer) and MKM (double layer).

     

    Sorry for the thread hijack. :whistling:

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