Rincewind

Imgburn won't help you with that, it only burns files 'as is'. Look into a program called "Audacity". It can change your mono wave file into stereo.

Cynthia Send it over here then. Constant temperatures around 100°F (~40°C) here.... . No rain for weeks...

It won't be, as long as imgburn burns and verifies 360 isos successfully, it is not our responsibility to mention anything else, sorry. It would usually be implied knowledge that you need a modified console even though that is already mentioned, but as far as any so-called 'special bootdisk' to circumvent checking of official copies, that won't be mentioned nor will there ever be a link to such a disc.

Nope, just use a Double Layered DVD+-R disc.

The last link LUK pointed you to sums it all up I'm afraid. If you have burned with imgburn and it burned and verified successfully, then it is out of our hands at this point sorry.

Also just another FYI it is impossible to burn any kind of DVD media at 2x. Even when DVD burning first came out to the consumer, the lowest speed available was 2.4x not 2x.

Well you've pretty much answered your question. You have a crappy drive. Attempting to burn DLs anyways on your slimeline is just plain futile since also the more discs you waste and buy it will add up to the cost of a drive anyways. Also note burning at 2.4x is not always relevant or possible because most drives (PROPER drives (and more recent firmware)) will over speed 2.4x rated DL media to 4x, check your logs and you will see that . Anyways, I am almost 99.9999% sure that if you buy a normal drive and buy a USB2.0 or 3.0 enclosure for it and use that as your primary burner for 360 backups, you should have better luck.

Thats because of this: And you chose: If 1x is clearly NOT an option, it will simply override your choice, and 2.4x is also not an option on your drive, nor it is an option on the media. By the way 1x is never an option on ANY kind of DVD media anyways. Your only other choice is to go and try burning again, (new disc of course) either at 4x or 8x. It is also quite possible you just have a bad disc out of the spindle.

No, it wasn't continuing a burn it had already finished. The next phase was to clear the drive by opening and closing before verifying. It is even in your log: Also according to your recent log, you seem to have a lot of buffer issues: {This is back earlier in your log when burning) When burning, it is a good idea to not multitask or use other programs that can drain resources from the burner. If that is not the case, then consider updating drivers to your controller. To find out what controller you have and get the right drivers go to www.ma-config.com You can also consider increasing the buffer a bit from 40MB. To do that go to tools -> settings -> I/O tab -> Page 2 and where it says 'buffer size' you can move the slider around to the desired size. As for the verifying errors afterwards, that I am not too sure. I would say maybe burn again probably at either 6x or 8x. Also you could also try 2.4x rated verbatims instead. Those will usually be over sped to 4x though for most recent burners, but as far as I know I have successfully burnt and verified 2.4x rated media so far. Still perhaps someone else can clue in on why verifying failed...

Post a log please. If it burned and verified with imgburn there is nothing else really we can do. Imgburn will TELL you what region the files (IFO) ares but WILL NOT change the region itself. IFOEdit is a program that will do that. Also be aware that not only region, but TV-System also matters, i.e. NTSC or PAL. Again imgburn will only burn files AS IS, it is your responsibility to make the appropriate changes yourself with a different program.

I don't even remember the MID, but as far as I know I have seen them in stores (brick/mortar) like Target and Best Buy. I would actually be VERY surprised though if I walked into a store and picked up the Sony Accucore discs and found a TY MID though I wouldn't hold my breath on that one .

I am curious if anyone ever actually done test burns with Sony +-R discs that have the so-called "Accucore" name on them... Just wondering if it is just a marketing name.

If they work great, but as a side note I am surprised that your Memorex discs have the Ritek dye, since when I used Memorex +R DLs the dye was CMC-MAG. In any case, you are guaranteed better reliability in burning with Verbatim +R DLs as well as playback. Since you already wasted one disc, you just have to try again. Just make sure you have the latest firmware version as recommended on that link I gave you. Chances are you might get a few successful burns but with non Verbatim DLs you WILL encounter a few bad discs out of the spindle. It has happened to me as well. I had 3 out of 25 TDK +R DLs wasted (they also had the Ritek dye). For SL (single layered), perhaps you can go with cheaper media like Riteks (still try to avoid CMC-MAG), but for DLs really there is no substituting Verbatims for the foreseeable future.

http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000

That just sounds more complicated than it should be. If in the end you want to burn massive amounts of discs, perhaps consider a duplicator. I think imgburn supports that along with batch burning...

I never heard of "data write titanium", and anyways 'for the most part' brand name isn't always relevant (except for Verbatim mostly). You can buy all the brand names, such as TDK, Maxell etc. That all is irrelevant, what is relevant is as I stated before the dye(disc ID). You'll be shocked to see under imgburn each burnable disc what the disc ID is. It is never the brand itself (except maybe sometimes on BD-Rs). For DVDs and CDs in store bought discs tend to either have CMC-MAG for the disc ID, as shown in your log, or Ritek. Verbatim discs have been seen to have the better quality for DVD+R discs (MCC = Mitsubishi Chemical Company). For CD-Rs it is something like TYxx (Tayo-Yuden), and just to avoid confusion Tayo Yuden is not Verbatims but are also recommended for CD-Rs, and I think DVD - or +, I could never remember that one. LUK would know . I don't know why your drive would not accept DVD+R Verbatim discs, perhaps it is a bad batch? In any case you should consider ordering online. If for some odd/dumb reason your burn absolutely refuses to burn Verbatim discs, then at that point you may as well consider a new burner, but again that would be the last resort. I find it suspect that your burner would refuse to burn higher quality media...

Try a lens cleaning disc, in case there are dust particles on the lens. It seems that you are running the latest firmware on your burner so that also rules that out. Then try again, if it still doesn't work... It might be because of this: Your issue could actually be solved just by getting better media. CMC MAG AM3 is pretty much crap. Go for Verbatim +R discs that have the disc ID MCC.

http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000

http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000

Consider getting other media rather than Ritek. Get Verbatim +R disc ID MCC, since all other options seem to be exhausted short of getting a new drive.

Well those "videos" are faked. Chances are the "video" are of a fake program called "COPYTHATGAME", and underneath it is just Imgburn. Imgburn is NOT designed to copy copyprotected discs (console discs, DVD-Video, Bluray), and will never have such features.

Well see if cleaning the burner with a cleaning disc helps. Your firmware is already up to date. If that doesn't work try getting different media instead of Ritek discs. It doesn't matter what the brand of the disc says, what is important is the disc-id. In your log it is shown as Ritek. Go for Verbatim +R discs, those have the MCC disc ID. Service Pack 3 for XP has been out for a while now, you might want to upgrade to it: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows/downloads/service-packs Since you are running an older service pack, it might be also a good idea to see if there are any updates to your chipset drivers as well. For that go to www.ma-config.com to find out what chipset you are running, and to get the appropriate updated drivers.

Well, .mpg could either be mpeg1 or mpeg2. If you have the 'original' mpg, you can still use that and convert it using DVDFlick. Note, if you merely renamed your .mpg file to .vob, that still won't really work. It specifically has to be converted to a VOB (Video Object file), it contains different tracks if available and subtitles. The IFO files contain chapter information as well as regional code, BUP files are just backups of IFO files. These files are contained in a VIDEO_TS directory. Ok, since you confirmed it is PATA then you will have to open up your computer physically and check the jumper settings as well as reconnecting it to a different IDE port if changing the jumper to master conflicts. After that try again with your firmware.

Ok if you only have the vob file, then you will not be able to produce a valid DVD-Video disc. Your only other option is to download DVDFlick (it is free), and see if it can take your vob and re-convert to a proper DVD-Video files (VOB,BUP,IFO), unless you have the original source still? As for the firmware update, I am a little confused myself as to WHY it is not working. Possible reasons, is that you might not have administrative access? Or perhaps your burner is setup as a slave drive, and not master? That is if it is an IDE and not SATA. Thats all I can think of at the moment, but don't worry yet there are always other members here and hopefully they might see something that I missed, concerning your firmware.