Questions errors burn

[LIGHTNING UK!]

If you compare it to the results I linked you to, you'll see mine were 10% of what yours are.

 

Obviously the lower the better here as we're talking about errors.

 

So this is where I'd be inclined to burn a couple more discs at different write speeds and then do the PIPO scan on those to see if they're better or worse than the discs you said you burnt at 6x.

[gamercr7]

your drive is different from mine, does it have any distorted results? I can not burn much discs for test because I have few units and in Brazil it does not sell dvd verbatim

Edited December 15, 2016 by gamercr7

[gamercr7]

1 on DVD-R 16x Verbatim MCC03RG20 what should I do to get the best jitter, the best PIE, the best PIF, best POF? My drive is Liteon iHAS122 F Firmware EL06

 

2 for scan jitter, pie, pif, pof what is the best speed I should use for all 16x dvd-r discs?

 

3 What is the best setting for ImgBurn to make the best burn? enable OPC?

 

4 is it possible to extract all this content from this disk with high PIE and get this content and burn in a new media? 100% of this content is good? Scandisc readtest surface is 100% good result test

[LIGHTNING UK!]

1. Please don't expect me or anyone else to know exactly what works best for a every drive/firmware/media combo. You have to perform your own tests, make your own PIPO scans and interpret your own results.

 

2. I usually always do PIPO scans at 4x.

 

3. The defaults work fine. Sometime, enabling the 'Perform OPC Before Write' option will help things. Sometimes it makes them worse. Again, you have to try it, PIPO scan and see for youself.

 

4. If it reads the disc without reporting an error, it *should* be fine.

[gamercr7]

1 I can not burn a lot of media for testing because I have few verbatim media, I burned 5 or 6 Verbatim AZO MCC DVD-R discs at 6x and all showed high PIE, so I think these discs are unreliable and that they will die Early because of the high jitter and high pit, I'll post new pics of new scans that I did

 

2 I did PIPO scan in 4x and 8x

 

3 disks are normally read according to the read test surface 100% good nero diskspeed but what kills the disks is PIE, PIF, jitter, POF

[gamercr7]

more photos

[LIGHTNING UK!]

The tests you're doing there with Nero DiscSpeed (ScanDisc with C1/C2 - PI/PO enabled) are not tests I'm ever going to want to see.

 

ImgBurn's Verify and the 'Disc Quality' one are enough.

 

Where did your Verbatim discs come from, eBay? Does Amazon deliver to your location?

[gamercr7]

1 ScanDisc with C1 / C2 - PI / PO enabled is the same as Disc quality, the two tests shows PIE, PIF and PIE, PIF, jitter

 

2 ImgBurn Verify say it is buggy but in my tests imgburn verify the result was no errors

 

3 my verbatim disks are legitimate bought from an ebay seller, amazon is expensive shipping in brazil

 

4 I have another drive to test but I do not know if it tests jitter, PIE, PIF, is the LG GH24NS90 24X Sata

[LIGHTNING UK!]

1. Yes but the results are displayed in a totally different manner. The ScanDisc one is useless.

 

2. Sorry, I don't understand what you mean.

 

3. Ok, I just wondered if they were really expensive to import or if getting more was an option.

 

4. You don't need it to test those things. Burn+Verify with it and then do the Disc Quality scans in your LiteOn.

[gamercr7]

1 scandisc PI-Po and Disc Quality is not the same test? I will post new images of disc quality

 

2 this LG model may show distorted or true results about jitter, pie, pif but I do not know if it supports this

[LIGHTNING UK!]

1. Look at the way the 2 tests display the results. One (Disc Quality) is a graph purely displaying a bar graph type thing showing PIPO values, the other (ScanDisc) displays red/orange/green squares that correspond to (chunks of) sectors on the disc. As we are interested in PIPO values, obviously the first one is useful and the second one isn't.

 

2. I don't understand.

 

Burn the disc in your LG.

 

Run the 'Disc Quality' test using your LiteOn. And by that I mean you should remove the freshly burnt disc from the LG drive and put it in your LiteOn.

 

The scanning abilities of the LG don't come into it.

 

The LiteOn is your scanning drive. You can burn the disc in any other drive you want to burn it in. I've probably got 60+ drives, but I've only ever scanned discs (when doing all the test scans for the forum) in a handful of them.

[gamercr7]

The drive that I use for burning is the liteon and disc quality, the lg I'm going to test jitter, pie, pif

 

What is your opinion about the chart and values pie, jitter, pif? I was told that pie and jitter are high

Edited December 20, 2016 by gamercr7

[LIGHTNING UK!]

You're going to burn a disc in the LG, take it out of the LG and put it into the LiteOn so you can then do the 'Disc Quality' test to get the PI/PO levels.

 

I was the one that told you they looked a little high. So yeah, I still think the same thing.

[gamercr7]

MDisc is good and reliable and secure? It promises extreme durability optical media

[LIGHTNING UK!]

I have no real experience of MDisc discs. If they are readable to begin with (once you've burnt them), by design, they should still be readable later on... so that's good.

[gamercr7]

Does mdisc use inorganic material? From what I read he uses inorganic material but the problem of longevity is glue and polycarbonate

[LIGHTNING UK!]

If you've read it on their website, I'd say it's true. There's no reason for them to lie about it.

 

Only they can answer those sorts of technical questions.

[Ch3vr0n]

Mdisc uses an inorganic STONE based surface. On the contrary to standard method where lasers burn into the due, mdisc gets physically etched into it. Data degradation is physically impossible, now obviously that won't protect them from scratches, but when stored right data simply cannot deteriorate unlike standard discs.

[gamercr7]

But there is a problem in mdisc, millenniata does not talk about adhesive glue and polycarbonate, will they die before the data layer? data layer not degrade, glue and polycarbonate degrade?

Edited December 23, 2016 by gamercr7

[Ch3vr0n]

Just because a certain party doesn't talk about a certain thing you immediately jump to the conclusion that there's a problem. Mdisc doesn't use a polycarbonate. The recording layer is made of a glassy carbon. Maybe you should read Wikipedia a little or do more research before jumping to conclusions. The exact properties of Mdisc are classed by millenniata as a 'trade secret'. You're not going to find the exact specs.

 

Now, I have said this once and I'm not going to repeat myself. You keep asking the same thing over and over about pie,pif, PIO on multiple forums and what else but you're never satisfied with the answers lightning UK gives you. Then you jump to a completely different thing such as Mdisc which has nothing to do with your initial 'questions'.

 

You have your answer, or do the research. I'm out. Happy holidays.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P with Tapatalk.

[gamercr7]

In all the sites I search say that the mdisc is made with 2 layers of polycarbonate glued, in the middle of the polycarbonate has the inorganic layer, I do not know where you found this information that mdisc does not use polycarbonate, the doubt is in the longevity of the polycarbonate And glue in mdisc, only the inorganic layer lasts 1000 years

[Ch3vr0n]

There's a difference between the normal polycarbonate standard discs use and the CARBON layer MDisc uses.

 

*out*

[gamercr7]

1 mdisc has polycarbonate different from polycarbonate of common dvds?

 

2 the glue mdisc is different too?

 

3 I see verbatim, ritek and many manufacturers producing mdisc, does that mdisc of those brands have the same quality as the original millenniata mdisc?

[Ch3vr0n]

1,2 nor 3 have anything to do with burn errors. Look it up? Using Google is hard yes?

[gamercr7]

what best configuration of imgburn for write mdisc?