LIGHTNING UK!

Blimey, how did you manage to not have shfolder.dll?! I've personally tested ImgBurn on 95, 98, Me, NT4, 2000, XP and 2003. Never once did I come across such an error. Have you got a build of 98 there with NOTHING else installed? At the very least I'd have expected Internet Explorer to install that file - if it's not already in the base build. The link below lets you download the proper package (containing that file) from Microsoft's website. http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details...D6-DBFA18D37E0F

They're in different PGCs. Yes, chances are they're taking slightly different routes through the cells so they can change languages somewhere or something. i.e. PGC 1 plays cells 1,4,5,6,7... PGC 2 plays cells 2,4,5,6,7... PGC 3 plays cells 3,4,5,6,7... 1, 2 and 3 are all roughly the same but maybe the logo is in a different language or something. Honestly, your guess is as good as mine! No comment on the decrypter stuff, sorry.

What do you mean 'which disc' ? It's either all of them or none of them! If your player can play DVD+R DL with the booktype left at DVD+R DL, there is no real point in setting it to DVDROM. Unless of course you take them to somewhere that can't play them when left as DVD+R DL. To be on the safe side, just set all of them to DVDROM. Doing that will certainly not make them any less likely to play.

lol, you've got waaaaaaaaaayyyy too much free time on your hands if made all those up!

No, stick with the MDS file if you have one. I'm just saying that ImgBurn CAN calculate the layerbreak position from the IFO files now if it needs to. The MDS one is still the best and it saves a lot of messing around - although that's all performed by the program of course, it's no extra work for you!

Yup, like I said, they're all the same. Just click one of them and hit ok.

Most older players probably prefer it to be set as DVDROM. If yours works ok when it's on DVD+R DL, you have no real reason to change it. That said, it's the 'norm' to set it to DVDROM. Some drives do this anyway and you (the user) has no choice in the matter. Just make sure you're on the latest firmware for the drive so you get the best burns from it.

ImgBurn doesn't NEED the MDS file to get the layerbreak position right. So long as the image is correct, it will parse the IFO files and find where it should put it. That's the major difference. It adds a bit more info to the log for people that like to know exactly what's happening, stops you from doing some silly things and of course you can now view the burn speeds in a nice graph using DVDInfoPro. Other than that, I don't know of any way to improve upon what DVD Decrypter already did! Put it this way, there is certainly no reason NOT to use ImgBurn over DVD Decrypter for burning suttf.

It's also the only way to perform a 'real world' verify - unless of course you don't ever intend on taking that disc out of the drive Sometimes drives can burn ok, but after cycling the tray, they decided the can't read back what they've written and fail to initialise (internally I mean) the media. As such, no software can read anything back from the disc as the drive always says it's 'not ready'.

Again, this comes down to something actually changing the error codes the drive is returning. I honestly can't see that happening! Driver wise, all you can do is get the latest chipset drivers and ata (application accelerator - might be called Raid Matrix or something now?!) software from the Intel site. That's what I do and (touch wood), mine is ok! Mine is the Intel 875 chipset, not sure what you have on that board (and I'm too lazy to search google )

No harm done. Sorry we couldn't help you.

Same difference really, it just can't write to the media. RMA time!

Eh?! Clearly that's the log of it FAILING to WRITE a disc - and it's not going to verify until it's written something properly! There are few things that look odd in that log but starting at the beginning.... go and update your drives firmware. http://forum.rpc1.org/dl_firmware.php?download_id=750 Get the 1S34 one.

I always use SPTI and therefore it undergoes the most testing! Stick with it unless you really have a reason to change! Glad you sorted out the crappy playback issue but I've no real idea why your buffer drops when you open something, it could be a virus checker or something. Basically it could be anything that locks out other processes while it does it's own thing. For the programs main buffer to drop off, it must be unable to read from the hdd quickly enough to keep it full. That's where the bigger buffer will help out. As you have plenty of RAM, that shouldn't be a problem. A second hdd away from the main OS drive would still be a good idea though

This isn't a 'problem' as such. One of the new features of ImgBurn is that it can parse the filesystem/IFO files and locate suitable places for a layerbreak. Normally, if you're using an MDS file, this is not necessesary because the layerbreak information can be taken straight from that. So in this instance, either you don't have the MDS file or the layerbreak position in the MDS file is not one that can be reused on an OTP disc - where it then falls back to the IFO parsing method. You just need to select the best place for the layerbreak out of the list you've got. It could well be that the options you've got are all the same - look at the LBA value - but they're in different PGC's or something. I decided (mainly because the app was new!) that it should show everything it found. This helps me figure out the best way to improve it and narrow down the results shown.

What are the choices? A screenshot may come in handy here

The only place a power calibration error should come from is a drive / media / firmware issue. Cables and stuff shouldn't really come into it. If you've read about lots of people burning the same media as you without a problem (and you're sure yours aren't fakes!), I guess you must just have a faulty drive. Take it back and demand they replace all the media you've wasted

It should have always been hardware related! Software isn't supposed to change the error messages a drive returns when something screws up.... that would be highly annoying! If you're worried, have tried loads of media and can't wait for an official firmware update, return the drive and get a different one.

Try not to burn from the same drive your OS is installed to. Also, ensure the burner is on it's own channel - away from the hdd you're burning from. If you do something that kicks the OS into doing some stuff, it may be running at a higher priority level than ImgBurn itself and so not only will it basically pause the ImgBurn process, it'll also take over the I/O. Windows can sometimes block out other processes when doing certain I/O functions and that's what's stopping ImgBurn from reading from your hdd. Try upping the buffer to 256mb or something. Perhaps that'll be big enough to stop it actually running out of data and burnproof kicking in. Also ensure your firmware it up-to-date. Burnproof kicking in should NOT mean you have a bad burn at the end of it! Are you using good quality discs?

You enable 'Show hidden Files' by opening explorer, clicking the 'Tools' menu, then 'Folder Options', then the 'View' tab. Select the 'Show hidden files and folders' radio button and uncheck the 'Hide extensions for known file types' checkbox.Then click ok. To remove the 'hidden' flag that's set on 1 specific file, right click it, click 'Properties', then uncheck the 'Hidden' checkbox. Then click ok.

Start -> Help -> Restore Point You should be fine with DT installed. I have no problems with it.

The buffer drops are just WOPC kicking in to check the burn quality is still ok. Nothing to worry about there Now keep installing your stuff until it breaks again... then you'll know what caused it!

Ah ok, your log was for a cd image (from your friend I guess). For a DVD image, changing the volume label wouldn't do anything to the EDC / ECC area - because ISO's don't contain that data in the first place! Obviously, as there is no EDC/ECC region, you wouldn't get a miscompare error like the one in your log! Yes try a perfectly clean rebuild. JUST install ImgBurn and then burn something.

No, you don't need to make an MDS file at all - and in any case, it still doesn't add layerbreak information to it. You'd just load the ISO in ImgBurn, it'll parse the IFO files at then time of burning.

Yup, if you're happy the cables and general machine config (bios wise) is ok.