LIGHTNING UK!

You're using rubbish discs and your drive probably won't work with overburning unless it supports the LiteOn command that enables the 'Force HyperTuning'. Ignore what you've read on the internet about buffer sizes (i.e. setting it to 72MB), they have nothing to do with how well your drive can burn discs.

You can access the auto-saved log via the Help menu.

If it can be read, it can be copied. If it can't be read, it probably won't work anyway!

Correct, the file dates/times won't change. Change it manually via something like this... http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/filedatech.html ...and then send them the new files. Oh and relying on file date/times to see if the contents of a file have been changed is silly (stupid replication company). It's trivial to set them back to whatever you what having modified a file.

It only modifies it in memory (and the modified version then gets written to the image/disc. Check the MD5 of each IFO file... you/they should see it's different for at least one of them compared to the one they rejected.

Another thread with the exact same drive / problem from back in 2011. http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?/topic/18065-unable-to-create-an-image-file-iso/

This is the problem here, your drive is returning bad information. 'LTS' is the 'Logical Track Size'. Your drive is saying it's only 1 sector long, hence why ImgBurn is just reading sector 0. The ND12 firmware update may fix the problem... it may not. http://www.dell.com/support/drivers/us/en/19/driverdetails?driverid=R185338

Copy + paste all of the disc info from the box on the right when you're in Read mode please. Your drive may not be reporting certain things properly for that disc.

It can't, no.

There must be hundreds of thousands (millions even) of burnt discs out there that aren't 50/50 and I don't recall people having said they were running into problems... so it should be perfectly safe. Yes you can choose any of the options you're given. I expect the drive would pad out the 2nd layer if truly required so they're the same size and therefore more 'readable' or whatever. You'd have to read up on the DVD+R DL format and the various technical specs to really know what difference it makes not having burnt to both layers in a certain physical area on the disc. (I don't know the answer, sorry).

They were quite common when CDs were still 'big'... not so much these days obviously. I'm pretty sure drive reviews (over at CDFreaks anyway) used to cover burning the oversized CDs... even up to 99 minute ones. I couldn't tell you which drives support them and which don't, it's not information my brain has retained!

If it (the player) doesn't support it, it'll probably freeze/hang.

I don't suppose you took a screenshot of that offer screen did you? I have no way of knowing if I'll see the same one should I ever get offered that application.

You can buy 90 minute blank CD-Rs.

Eject it, reinsert it and try again. If you haven't already done so that is. If you have another drive anywhere, try it in that too.

No reason that I can think of, no. ImgBurn doesn't really pay any attention to the write speeds reported by the drive. It sends the command to set the speed to whatever you've selected and reports back with whatever the drive then thinks it's going to be burning at. If the 'Effective' speed is shown to be 8x, it should be burning at 8x. Internal drive stuff is then what would be causing it to burn at a different speed to that - either something in the firmware or the chipset itself maybe.

Try a decent 'write once' (not rewritable) disc... I recommend Taiyo Yuden CDs.

walking opc Basically, calibrating/adjusting the laser power as it goes in an effort to get the best quality burn possible.

Click 'write image file to disc' and then point the 'source' at the mds file your friend sent you. That's all there is to it.

Not what I'd call estimates, no. They're all based on the amount of data being read/written over a period of time. They're averaged sometimes though (over a period of a few seconds etc) and there's code in place to try and reduce/ignore massive spikes where the cache/buffering is doing all of the hard work and it isn't a true read/write rate.

Try using one of the DVD shrinking / reauthoring type tools to just pull off what you can get at before the disc is unreadable. I'd consider giving something like IsoPuzzle a go or see about getting a replacement disc.

That time is nothing to do with playing time. It's in minutes, seconds and frames (1 frame = 1 sector on the disc) and goes back to the old days of CDs where a 650MB disc was 74 minutes (of audio), 700 MB was 80 minutes etc. It just so happens that the size of a DL disc works out to 900 minutes or whatever. Of course it's worth trying another drive... unless it's going to take your hours to do so? Failing that, maybe the disc is faulty?

That's probably the drive performing WOPC. Speed wise, lots of drives read different discs at different speeds. I.e. DVD-R at 16x and DVD+R at 12x. Blu-ray drives are typically more conservative than straight up DVD drives.

If your drive can't read the disc, all you can do is try cleaning it and try again. If you have access to another drive, try reading it in that too as some are better than others with reading problem discs.

ImgBurn will always build ISO's that are multiple of 16k... and therefore always a multiple of 4k, which is what Apple's Bootcamp 'HFS under windows' driver seems to round files up to. So you wouldn't run into the problem of it trying to read beyond the end of the file. It might be worth asking Apple why Windows (via their HFS driver) is reporting your 1080 byte file as 4k in size, both actual size and 'on disk' size.