LIGHTNING UK!

Post your log please.

What you have to remember is that a drives 'fast' transfer rate speed is one where a large amount of data is accessed sequentially. Reading lots of little bits from all over the place is going to 'thrash' the hard drive and the overall transfer rate will drop significantly. Use something like HD Tune to get the top speed of your drive. A 16x burn needs a steady transfer rate of over 20MB/s. If you want to leave uTorrent running, I suggest you increase ImgBurn's buffer to something bigger than the default 20 / 40MB... i.e. 256MB. Ideally though, keep your images on a totally different hdd from the one most other apps would / could be accessing.

Uninstalling the controller entries should wipe out all channel entries and also the dvd/cd drives too. Please double check that's actually happening. Once you've rebooted, look at the channel entries and make sure all the devices have DMA enabled (on the Advanced Settings tab).

This normally happens because the program is unable to read quickly enough from your hdd. Try to make sure it's not being used (very much) by any other software whilst you're burning. Random access on the hdd will kill the transfer rate. Don't forget to defrag it too.

You can also then look in the disc info panel on the right when you're back on the main screen. It should say 'Status: Complete' in there somewhere. lol cool this thread is the only hit on google for 'TS-L633M A0A0'

So you uninstalled all the controller entries from within Device Manager? Until you get it burning at something other than 1x, stop wasting DL discs. At 1x, your drive will constantly be using its 'burnproof' function as 2.4x is the slowest DVD+R (or DVD+R DL) media will burn at. The drive will have to keep stopping and starting the burn and that's anything but optimal!

Why don't you start by telling us exactly what you have at the moment (file wise) and what you want from your final 'burnt' disc. Do you want to burn your file 'as-is' or does it need to be converted to another format? (i.e. you have an mpeg file and you want to burn a DVD Video disc that'll work in all standalone players)

The Toshiba UDF drivers will allow you to read UDF 2.50 and 2.60 on an 'older' OS if you're not on Vista yet.

DVD Flick probably tells ImgBurn to close itself down if the burn was successful. If you want to burn multiple copies, use ImgBurn as a standalone application.

The control used for the buttons can't have tab focus.

Are you using a version of UDF that your version of Windows can actually read? It certainly displays the UDF volume label for me, always has done.

The brand name on the discs doesn't mean anything, it's the dye that's important and yours is RITEK. Don't forget to try 4x and 8x too. Just because 6x worked once doesn't mean it's the best.

Don't forget to verify your burns. That option is enabled by default for a good reason!

Your drive is 400 years old and that media was made in the last decade. You need a new drive or some of the MKM-001-00 2.4x verbatims instead.

Ah now that's the Shamus we all know and love!

I thought/think that too volvo. How else would they know about this obscure file format that's developed by a company nobody has ever heard of before.... it's all too 'convenient' if you ask me. If it walks like a duck and talks like a duck, there's a good chance it's a duck! In any case, there's not a bone in my body that wants to implement support for the format so let's just leave it at that.

Try with some Taiyo Yuden 8x (TYG02 dye) media.

So you can see the 'ez mode picker' option in the 'Mode' menu at the top? Can you click it, and then take a screenshot of what you see please.

That's odd disc info because the log says the booktype is DVD-ROM when the verify starts (this comes direct from the drive) and now that you're looking at the disc again, it's still saying DVD+R. Look at the bottom of the disc and see if it actually looks burnt - i.e. different colours in the dye.

The first error is the real / important one. Your drive complained that it couldn't write to the discs. Switch to some better Taiyo Yuden or Verbatim ones.

2.4x might not be the best speed for that media in that drive with that firmware. You're potentially going to have to waste a few more discs trying the other 'supported' write speeds. If none work, read this: http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000

Put that disc back in the drive and copy + paste everything from the disc info panel on the right. You can paste the filter drive info too whilst you're at it - use the option in the 'Tools' menu. Hopefully switching to Verbatims will do the trick but updating the firmware is always a good idea.

You need to try with the 2.4x (MKM-001-00 dye) Verbatims.

Ok well either you have some nasty filter drivers installed that are messing up the error codes (unlikely as it's returning the 'process' one) or your drive is just broken. Can it read original 'pressed' discs properly?

What did it say when you aborted the verify? There's no issue actually being logged so it's hard to say. *something* has been burnt as the booktype is now DVD-ROM rather than DVD+R.