LIGHTNING UK!

Try everything you can think of! Try with just 1 stick in too if your board allows it. You've tried the latest drivers for the motherboard / ide controller from the SIS website too yeah?

It'll be an option in the bios I expect. (Press F1, F2, DEL etc when the machine is first turned on - it'll probably tell you which) It's probably a good idea to check for bios updates for the board too and install the latest (if one is available).

It could just be the discs you're using. Post the log of you burning / verifying a disc that then doesn't work in your player.

Which motherboard and chipset do you have? Which controller is the drive connected to? (Incase you have more than 1 available to you) Are you overclocking? If you can revert to older (standard) drivers, by all means try it. It's not like you have anything to lose!

Do you need your controller to be in RAID mode? Optical drives work best (only work!) when it's in the standard ATA mode - or sometimes if you're lucky, AHCI mode. If all else fails, get yourself a Silicon Image 3512 PCI controller card and put the drive on that.

It's been that way for about 6 years so my opinion is to leave it alone.

It's called sarcasm and was intended as a joke, I am sure. Anyway, hopefully you have the info you require now. Please do pop back and say 'Hi' if you need additional help.

If all the files are physically readable and you say you're not getting everything then it's nothing to do with ImgBurn and everything to do with whatever authored them. If you don't explain exactly what you mean / are seeing, there's no chance in us helping you. That said, if the disc is readable you should probably direct this problem at the PGC Demux author on the Doom9 forum or somewhere similar.

The problem with bundling tools is that they get updated and make the compilation look old. Personally I'd prefer it if people always used the latest version and just downloaded it from the official website.

When I said 'normal data image' I was talking about one with a proper file system that normal tools can parse. If you look in your log you'll see the image you're burning comes up as 'None'. Normally the drive identifier shows 'ATA' or 'SCSI' on the end of it, yours shows 'ATAPI'. That's a driver thing. Now how about the motherboard / controller questions I asked?

If you can read all the files off a disc you've burnt then you were probably using cheapo DL media and your drive didn't burn it very well. There's not much you can do about that. Do you verify when you burn? That should have picked up on such problems - unless these burns were done a while ago and the discs have degraded since then.

Your drive is adding a couple of sectors to the size of the disc from what has actually been written - those sectors cannot be read because they've not actually been burnt. That's why it works when doing a verify as part of the burn - because it knows how much to verify and those last 2 sectors are never read - but doesn't work when *just* going by what the drive reports for sizes etc when in standalone verify mode and not comparing to an image file. It might help here if you could switch to Read mode and just copy + paste all the disc info text from the panel on the right into your next post (when that exact disc is in the drive).

That tells you. It would say DVD-+R if you had one, yours just says DVD-ROM. So your only option is to buy a dvd burner.

Can you try with a normal data image? Adjust the write speed down to 8x or 12x. Why are you getting soooo many buffer problems? Are you sure you've got the right drivers on for your ide/sata controller? Drives don't normally show up as 'ATAPI'. What controller is the drive connected to? What motherboard do you have?

Sigh, now you're gonna make me have to explain it.... On DVD+R DL the sector numbers (LBA) are continuous, on DVD-R DL they're not. So if you have 0 - 9 on layer 1 and 10 - 19 on layer 2. If I then decide to move the layer break to LBA 7, on DVD+R DL you'll end up with 0 - 6 on layer 1 and 7 - 13 on layer 2. (i.e. it remaps them) With DVD-R DL you'll end up with 0 - 6 on layer 1 and 13 - 19 on layer 2. (i.e. there's a gap of nothingness from 7 to 12) The last sector on the DVD+R DL disc would be reported as 13, on DVD-R DL it would be 19. So if any program / machine tries to just read from start to end it'll work fine for DVD+R DL but it'll error out on DVD-R DL due to the unused sectors in the middle (7 - 12). The program/machine would need to be aware of the various jump points on the DVD-R DL disc for it to work and all the offsets would need to be corrected - because data isn't where it's supposed to be (thanks to the discontinuous LBA between layers). THAT is why I said it's a complete waste of time and not to bother with it. I can understand you wanting to make use of the discs you've purchased but just save them for something else where the LB doesn't matter.

There's no reason for it to work in one version and not the other, the commands don't change. The newer version actually asks if you want to close the disc if the burn fails. Previous versions didn't and would do it regardless - so that totally goes against what you're saying. Although you might think there's no point in posting a log, there actually is - especially if it's from a disc that actually failed to burn.

Rebuilding isn't an option then. Sorry but you'll need to invest in some DVD+R DL's

Forget about it, LJR is useless and was removed. Buy DVD+R DL instead. You could also rebuild the image for burning onto DVD-R DL media where the layer break would then be in the correct (fixed) position.

This isn't your thread, therefore by posting in it with anything other than help for the owner is hijacking. The FAQ is a single thread with about 20 odd posts. Just find the one where it mentions slow burning in the 'problem' bit at the top of the post. If you avoid reading stuff you'll stay an idiot. (Your words, not mine!)

Take a look on the packaging and see if they're made in the same country. Maybe you've got some from Singapore and some from India or something. The ones from Singapore are probably what the drive's firmware is setup for. Tweaks might be required for discs from other countries where the dye is ever so slightly different. You can't 'force' anything, the drive does what it thinks is best.

Try turning off the 'DVD+R Reserve Track' option in the settings (on the Write tab). It's not an option that should be causing a problem but tiny problems with some drives (all liteon's from what I've seen) make the DVD+R come out like DVD+RW for some reason. That said, where I've seen this problem before, other drives can normally read the disc just fine. It's only the liteon burner that has a problem initialising the disc properly and reading it back. It's the drive that's messing up here, not ImgBurn itself - I just want to make that clear!

No, it all comes down to what the drive/firmware supports on the media you're using. Look at the 'Supported Write Speeds' bit in the disc info panel on the right side of the main screen.

Layer break info is normally stored in a file that goes along with the main data file (i.e. a '*.mds' file or '*.dvd' file). There shouldn't really be any need to enter it manually. If you really must enter it manually, just remember that it then applies to ALL DL images / discs you burn until it's set back to 'Automatic'. 'Tools' menu -> 'Settings' option -> 'Write' tab.

You probably don't have a DVD burner (it's probably just a DVD reader).

You know this is the ImgBurn forum yeah? If you're going to post a log from a program, surely it should be one from ImgBurn?!