LIGHTNING UK!

All the verbatim SL media will either be the MCC or TY dyes. Just get any of them that you can! I'd probably go for their DVD+R over DVD-R. So they'll be MCC-003 (8x) or MCC-004 (16x) or YUDEN000-T02 (8x) or YUDEN000-T03 (16x) For the DL media, burners seem to prefer the 2.4x ones - especially if it isn't a brand new drive. The 2.4x ones have been around for a lot longer and so have better firmware support.

Does the TTH02 media still error out if you burn at 8x? Have you tried a cleaning disc in the drive? Is its firmware up-to-date? Failing all that, get yourself a new drive. Yours may well have had it.

Consider it this way... You want to travel from A to B. Do I give you: A. A car (a single ISO image file) or B. All the parts needed to make a car - engine, sheets of metal, wheels, tyres, wiring loom, seats etc. (various little files) ??? Both are effectively the same thing but it's much easier to have the car pre-built! Of course the answer is going to be A! Burning an ISO to a disc is a VERY simple process. (Load program in Write mode, select the source ISO file, click burn) Assuming the ISO wasn't made by a complete moron the disc will then play/load just fine. The user burning the ISO doesn't have to worry about settings because the content of the ISO is totally irrelevant. With various little files, the user would need to know what type of disc they want to burn, select the right file system, inclusion and restrictions options etc. If you want to write 2048 bytes of data to a disc you just read 2048 bytes from the ISO file and burn it as-is. ISO is the easiest format to work with. Don't think otherwise just because you don't understand it.

The socket limit is a security thing (only allow 10 to be opened per second or something) and shouldn't actually slow down normal network file transfer speeds. You can test your network speed by copying something like a 1 - 4GB image over from another PC and keeping an eye on the transfer speed via a program like 'DU Meter'. A 100mbit network will get you ~ 11MB/s which is just about enough for 8x burning (if that!).

I believe both 2.4x and 8x discs are available from both Singapore and India. The Taiyo Yuden I get (8x DVD-R with TYG02 dye) don't have any branding on them so to speak. They come in a clear spindle tub with just a top sheet of paper (on top of the first disc) that says what they are. It's just a plain white sheet with some writing on it.

No, that's all there is. Stick another drive in the machine and see if it does the same.

The program works for any media, regardless of which mode you're in. There's an Audio CD guide in the Guides section.

Because drives and media change. Manufacturers go for high speed, quality burning now and don't pay much (any?!) attention to people who want to burn 16x media at 1x. 8x and 12x seem to be the most reliable. They're not too fast and not too slow. I'd still ditch the TDK in favour of Verbatim / Taiyo Yuden if I were you.

You don't make an existing ISO bootable, you create a new one and make that bootable.

They're both good. I tend to stick with the 8x DVD-R TYG02 ones myself.

You have to ignore what windows says, the name it gives to drives is annoying and not to be trusted. If it won't read any dvd at all (even originals) then I'd have to say it's gone to the drive heaven in the sky.

1.9x isn't even a real speed on DVD+ (plus) format media. 2.4x is the slowest the format supports. Either it's just telling you what you want to hear or it's being limited due to a DMA issue or something

Your drive is an LG one, not LiteOn. ImgBurn handles the booktype stuff automatically so you don't need to worry about it. There's an updated bios here for that drive: http://support.euro.dell.com/support/downl...p;fileid=224422 You already know the rest. Ditch the Riteks and buy Verbatim 2.4x DVD+R DL (MIS - Made in Singapore). If you can't find them in a store, buy online. I very much doubt you'd even end up paying $2 per disc, let alone $7!

As is normally the case with the ultra dma crc 32 error, you should look at swapping out the cable going to the drive, using one as short as possible (and 80 wire if it's IDE). Find which controller the drive is connected to (in the case of it being a 3rd party one and not part of the main motherboard chipset), then goto the manufacturer's website and get the latest driver. You should also look at motherboard bios updates and driver updates for the main chipset too (like Intel Chipset INF and Intel Matrix drivers - only AMD/NVIDIA ones for you I guess!).

Yes, you need to set it to 8x or 12x manually.

Can you get your hands on a couple of Taiyo Yuden / Verbatim discs to test with? 'AUTO' write speed is basically the same a 'MAX' until you actually configure the 'Automatic Write Speed' feature. Read the 'Guides' forum.

ok so the drive couldn't burn the media. Eject the disc insert a new one and then copy + paste the disc information from the panel on the right of the main ImgBurn screen (might be under the device tab if you're in Build mode).

lol interesting that the drive only reports 2.4x as a supported speed and yet it burnt at 8x anyway! Buggy firmware I guess as there's nothing the program can do to make it burn faster than it wants to. Hopefully SB04 will sort it.

Post the log please!

Although you'd think that's the case, it actually doesn't mean anything! You need to snoop in on the commands to find out what it's really using. I did a while back and found it used the incremental write type.

I'd recommend 8x or 12x for burning btw.

Have you tried burning at 8x or 12x? Maybe the 4x write strategy just doesn't work (4x is what it would use because it's the closest available to the 1x you selected) Try burning with 'Test Mode' enabled too, that'll at least tell you the system should be capable of burning the disc. (Turn it off again to do a real burn) How are the buffers when the drive appears to get stuck, are they both still full up?

There is no option to skip the erase/format. When burning onto DVD+RW media, either its 'Formatted' status is 'Yes' and the program will do direct overwrite or it's not and it'll prompt to format. If you don't format you can't continue.

No, this isn't the place for that.

Hit and miss burning is of course a problem with the drive/firmware/media combo. If it wasn't an issue it wouldn't have failed in the first place!