LIGHTNING UK!

As usual, you can download it and view the changelog by visiting the main website. http://www.imgburn.com/ Special 'Thanks' to all the beta testers. I don't think we'll beat '49' any time soon

Nero defaults to using the 'Incremental' write type I think, try using that option in the settings within ImgBurn instead of SAO/DAO. Are your buffer bars at 100% in ImgBurn throughout the burn?

Is that disc meant for Windows / PC's in general? There's no file system, hence why Explorer doesn't show anything. Personally I'd check your source isn't corrupt.

Happy Birthday Donta... looks like the official 2.4.0.0 release might be your birthday present

like you have on all the files the program supports and that you've configured in the settings?

You figured wrong. ImgBurn is just a burning tool, it doesn't compress anything.

What's that in english? Access is denied? If so, please read the FAQ as it's covered in there.

Change the 'Write Type' to Incremental in the settings, you might have more luck It's nothing to do with the program itself. All it's doing is feeding data to the drive. The drive itself controls everything else so if it bombs out for some reason than it only has itself to blame. The S203B's are very good at that... I was hoping the SB03 firmware would have fixed it but I guess not.

This was old skool.... a bit of paper and an envelope!

lol we weren't doing it there and then It was just a crappy thing we had to send into someone.

That wouldn't be good enough, you'll need a DOS bootdisk (i.e. where Windows isn't loaded at all). Once you've got that created, copy the flasher tool + firmware to the disk and reboot. Hopefully the PC will then boot up from the floppy and you'll hit the same sort of command prompt. Then type in... DWL X 107.hex /M where 'X' is a number between 0 and 3, depending on where your drive is positioned on the IDE BUS. 0 = Primary Master, 1 = Primary Slave, 2 = Secondary Master, 3 = Secondary Slave The BIOS screen might help you figure out what it's connected to. Also, if the drive is on a totally different cable to the HDD then it's probably secondary something.

I'm not even sure if bitsetting was really around when the 104 came out... that drive is pretty old now! The 'Pioneer' forum at CDFreaks is probably a good place to start looking for info. Are you actually having a problem with +R discs not being recognised at all in your players or something? Otherwise you don't really have anything to gain by bitsetting.

The software has nothing to do with strategies, it simply supplies the drive with data to burn. The drive has total control over burn quality etc. If your drive supports scanning in CDSpeed, do a 'Disc Quality' check on that disc and see how it's comes out.

You have to drop back down to DOS and do it manually via the command line interface. Have you even seen/used that before? What version of Windows is on the PC with that old CD drive anyway?

Yes but it seems logical that the gold star one is the original one, it's SPLIP is already set to false (which is normal for layer breaks).

See, with an 8GB pen why on earth would you want floppy drive style access to your media?! The USB pens are far better suited to the task and work without the need for any 3rd party software. Stick with those I say

No, never I'm afraid. Buy a USB pen.

Well I guess the first thing you need to do is take it out of the external enclosure. When you've done that, take the side off your PC, locate the IDE cable / spare IDE socket on the motherboard and connect it up. Don't forget the power lead! It's hard for us to tell you exactly how to do it until we know more about the internals of your machine.

Plug it in internally if it won't work in your USB enclosure. I'm not sure you can go far wrong wit the actual update process, it's only 2 files in a zip!

How is the drive connected? IDE / USB / Firewire etc? What controller is it on (if the answer to the above is IDE) ? If IDE, have you tried updating the controller drivers? They could be blocking the commands used by the firmware flasher.

Happy Birthday!

If the retry worked then it must have managed to do whatever it does when I tell it to close the track. If the verify passed then the data in the file is all present and correct on the disc - when read in that drive. You might find that another drive has issues initialising the disc due to that 'close track' error, I really can't say for sure. Basically, if it works then it works. If it doesn't, it doesn't! If you're bored one day you could try crossflashing to a real LiteOn SHM-165P6S. The latest LiteOn firmware might have better media support.

All you'll be doing it burning discs that aren't within DVD Video DL specs. Each to their own. I don't add the warning messages in there for fun. As has been mentioned several times on the forum, if the ISO you have isn't built correctly for OTP media, simply (extract the contents somewhere and) build it again via Build mode.

I'm confused... you have a VIDEO_TS set and now you want to go back to avi so you can convert it to an ISO you're gonna burn to DVD anyway? Why not just burn the VIDEO_TS folder straight to DVD and skip the entire AVI part - thus retaining the original quality levels?

You really want the proper 2.4x Verbatims (MKM-001-00), NOT the 8x ones (MKM-003-00).