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Plug it in internally if it won't work in your USB enclosure. I'm not sure you can go far wrong wit the actual update process, it's only 2 files in a zip!

How is the drive connected? IDE / USB / Firewire etc? What controller is it on (if the answer to the above is IDE) ? If IDE, have you tried updating the controller drivers? They could be blocking the commands used by the firmware flasher.

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If the retry worked then it must have managed to do whatever it does when I tell it to close the track. If the verify passed then the data in the file is all present and correct on the disc - when read in that drive. You might find that another drive has issues initialising the disc due to that 'close track' error, I really can't say for sure. Basically, if it works then it works. If it doesn't, it doesn't! If you're bored one day you could try crossflashing to a real LiteOn SHM-165P6S. The latest LiteOn firmware might have better media support.

All you'll be doing it burning discs that aren't within DVD Video DL specs. Each to their own. I don't add the warning messages in there for fun. As has been mentioned several times on the forum, if the ISO you have isn't built correctly for OTP media, simply (extract the contents somewhere and) build it again via Build mode.

I'm confused... you have a VIDEO_TS set and now you want to go back to avi so you can convert it to an ISO you're gonna burn to DVD anyway? Why not just burn the VIDEO_TS folder straight to DVD and skip the entire AVI part - thus retaining the original quality levels?

You really want the proper 2.4x Verbatims (MKM-001-00), NOT the 8x ones (MKM-003-00).

As ImgBurn doesn't convert avi files (or any files for that matter) I can only assume you've got the wrong program.

Get some other media, that one (RITEK-F16-01) is too new for your drive to handle by the looks of it. We recommend Verbatim and Taiyo Yuden (because they actually work!).

Updating the firmware is certainly one thing to try.

Ahhh that looks good to me volvo, thanks mate! It was the last one on a quiz we're doing.

Yes, uninstall all the controller entries and then reboot. If it asks you to reboot before you've deleted all 3, just click no.

You only have 1 entry that says 'controller' ? Just delete them all until that entire branch is empty, then reboot - but start with the controller because it'll remove the channels along with it.

If it doesn't work at any speed then there's nothing you can really do. Try a new batch of discs if you can and make sure they're 2.4x ones from Singapore. Failing that, try the drive in another (known to burn ok) machine... if it still fails, get yourself a new drive.

R _ _ _ _ _ _ & H _ _ _ _ _ _ Any ideas?! Each underscore represents 1 letter. i.e. each name is 7 letters in total, one starting with 'R' and the other with 'H'.

What do you mean it doesn't attempt to?! The log shows this as the error... So basically it tried but the drive errored out straight away. Give this firmware update a try: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/generic...=en&lang=en Failing that, ditch those discs and get yourself some Verbatim 2.4x DVD+R DL (MKM-001-00) ones - they're more expensive because they actually work.

The disc not being read has NOTHING to do with the 'structure' (by which I assume you meant cell layout etc?). The drive doesn't know or care about that type of thing. Rememeber that the drive controls the quality etc, the program simply feeds it data. Burn one using a nearer 50/50 split and you might have more luck. 8x is fine for benq scanning... look in our media and testing forum, it's what we always use and our verbs don't scan anything like that.

Yeah the samsungs aren't really all that reliable. My S203B has failed a few times too - it's coastered a good few DL discs during testing and I've seen a few post where other people have run into finalisation problems. I have lots of other drives to choose from though so it's no big deal for me.

It might be burning loads more on the disc when you do that to make it compatible. You're supposed to burn both layers on DL media, that's the whole idea of them! The program polls the drive every second during finalisation to see if it's done or not, it must be telling the program it's not or it wouldn't be waiting there for it to finish. As soon as it says it's done (or errors out), ImgBurn will move onto the next stage. Feel free to update the firmware on the drive to SB03 too.

The PIE levels on that disc are way out of spec, jitter is quite high too. Normally I'd look for PIE being under 40-80 on DL media and you want jitter under 10 really. You should download the latest cdspeed from http://www.cdspeed2000.com as that's what we're all using (along with DVDInfoPro). There is no such thing as a 'layer' until I create it so when you say the second one is smaller, it's only smaller if you pick the 70/30 one. It's padding so many sectors so that the cell in question is the midway point. i.e. if I have cells... 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 and I want cell 4 to be the layer break one (i.e. the 1st cell on the 2nd layer), I need to insert space (padding) before cell 1 so that [space] - 1 - 2 - 3 is the same size as 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8, because L0 must be the same size (or larger) than L1.

Scan the disc you burnt using DVDInfoPro or CDSpeed (PIPO / Disc Quality scan) and see how it comes out. Maybe you just had a duff one? The issue isn't so much with the split point (in PGC/Cell terms) as it is with the MMC specs saying that the most compatible burns are those were both layers are created equal sizes. EDIT: Put the original in and copy + paste the info from the panel on the right. The last few lines are the layer breakdowns.

Follow the post in the FAQ about dealing with DMA issues - i.e. uninstall the IDE controller entry in Device Manager and reboot. If that doesn't work, get back to us with the log etc as jmet said.

Yes, Read mode = Disc to image on hdd. Write mode = image on hdd to disc.

It means your drive failed to initialise the disc. (TOC = Table Of Contents) Are you sure your drive supports the media? (and that you don't just have a CD burner - i.e. it can't burn DVDs) Is the drive using the most recent firmware? If ejecting/reinserting doesn't work, try some other discs. If that doesn't work try cleaning the drive. If that doesn't work buy a new drive.

Really, you want something as near to 50/50 as possible. What were the other choices?