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polopony

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Posts posted by polopony

  1. Mike I think trying 3 burns at once is pushing it ,you've been able to run 2 at once but it looks like you're at the point where you're taxing the computer BTW 2 at once is great although I only do 1 at a time and havent burned a coaster in years now

  2. what make of discs have you got, post the full log if your not sure.

     

    They are just some cheap ones I picked up. DVD-R Khypermedia Hyperm Is that what you mean?

     

    Does this make a difference?

     

    the quality of the media makes a huge difference those are cheap as you say not very good at all, we only reccommend Verbatim + and - and also Taiyo Yuden, they are top of the line but well worth it . All the other media is hit and miss

     

    FYI its nor the "brand " of disc thats important but who makes the dye that the discs are made with .You can find out who makes yours by putting a blank in the burner and IMGburn in write mode it'll look like this, these are Verbatim 16x - R discs , note the MCC code thats who makes the dye its the Mitsubishi Chemical Corp

     

    Disc Information:

    Status: Empty

    Erasable: No

    Free Sectors: 2,298,496

    Free Space: 4,707,319,808 bytes

    Free Time: 510:48:46 (MM:SS:FF)

    Supported Write Speeds: 2x, 4x, 6x, 8x, 12x, 16x

     

    Pre-recorded Information:

    Manufacturer ID: MCC 03RG20

     

    Physical Format Information (Last Recorded):

    Disc ID: 0@P-!-00

    Book Type: DVD-R

    Part Version: 5

    Disc Size: 120mm

    Maximum Read Rate: Not Specified

    Number of Layers: 1

    Track Path: Parallel Track Path (PTP)

    Linear Density: 0.267 um/bit

    Track Density: 0.74 um/track

    First Physical Sector of Data Area: 196,608

    Last Physical Sector of Data Area: 2,495,103

    Last Physical Sector in Layer 0: 0

  3. Kanga , the crystal ball is in the shop for repairs so if you want help please post a log of a burn and provide some info and maybe we can see what the problem is ,read the posts and do what was asked of JANS

     

     

    Jans ,try to return the discs for a refund if the sellers are a reputable shop you should get your money back

  4. Verbatim are the only reliable dual layer discs, saying Matrix brand doesn't really mean anything its the maker of the dye on the disc that matters many "brands" use the same dye. Put a matrix disc in your burner Write mode and copy and paste the info in IMGburns window .My guess is its the media you're using ,also make sure that the drives firmware is up to date

  5. I've got an DVD-Video ISO but without an MDS that indicate a layer break point, can I manual set that in ImgBurn?

    thx in advance

     

    what I would do is read the iso back to the hard drive with Daemon tools (a free virtual drive download ) and then with IMGburn in BUILD mode would create an ISO that IB will give you a choice of layerbreak positions .The choices will be good average excellent whatever the color coded stars indicate, your choice. Keep it close to 50/50 say 51/49 as layer o needs to be bigger than Layer 1 .There is an excellent Guide in the Guides Forum

  6. Mine won't do the dishes, lazy bitch just stands there looking at the taps.

    At least she's thinking of doing them donta! Firey doesn't even go into the kitchen :D

     

    Regards

     

    she thinks Cooking and Cleaning are 2 cities in China :lol:

  7. I have this non-commercial video DVD with a few errors.

    When I try to create an ISO image, I get a message like the following:

     

    I/O Error!

    [...]

    Interpretation: Unrecovered Read Error

     

    If tell ImgBurn to ignore these errors, will the resulting ISO image be a valid one? If I burn that image into a blank DVD, should I be able to play the movie on a common DVD Player?

    if you tell it to ignore errors it will do just that but anything you burn will be missing whatever you ignored and will the disc be acceptable its your call

     

    you should try to clean the disc with isopropyl alcahol and something really soft (I use a cleaning kit put the disc in spray with a little alcahol and a couple of turns of the crank and they're perfect) ,in the case of a scratch sometimes it can be polished with toothpaste very gently and you can also try another readed and see if that will work

  8. look at the disc as 2 circles, the one closest to the hub (center ) will hold the least amount of data and supports the lowest speed, as the disc burns outward there is a larger area, more data and the burner can then write faster ,the fastest burn speed is at the outer edge , the write speed depends on the media and the drives firmware and rated burn speed ie a 16x burner ,they never sustain one constant speed from start to finish. Imgburn reports the speeds correctly. You'll see in the logs after a burn the average speed and the fastest speed the disc was written as

  9. My niece spent her final year of college in St Petersburg Russia and from all I could see in her photos the women from there were hot and mostly blond .Dominican Republic has its share of hot Latinas who make no bones about hooking up for a green card .You listen to many prople bad mouth the US but theres a lot out there that will go to extremes to get here

  10. If you were older you would remember all the ladies with their "FREE WOMEN " signs .I was working for the NY Daily News those days and they were protesting in front of the building so being a smart arse I said to one of them great I'll take 2 it went over like a led balloon but the look on her face was priceless :lol:

  11. there is no second best ,the rest are garbage ,we've seen just about every other "brand " of Dual Layer and our advice is always the same .Personally I dont spend the money on DL's .I can get 6-7 gigs on a single layer with compression and havent made a coaster in ages I use Verbatim + and - and Taiyo Yuden discs theres none better all still play fine and also everything that was burned to Ritek GO4 discs play ok also (probably the last of the good riteks )

  12. Thanks for your quick reply. I'm glad to know now that Pioneer itself checks the dye for write speeds. I thought something else was holding it back. I don't own a BenQ I just pointed to that topic to support my question. [edit] I've read the graph wrong, the actual writing speed was between 2,3 and 2,6. I hate that Platinum change it to CMC thought, it used to be Ritek Dye [/edit]

     

    the Riteks these days are really no better than the CMC MAG discs if you want DL discs then Verbatim are the only way to go :thumbup:

  13. You actually take those VOB,IFO and BUP files and create an ISO image and IB will burn that just fine ,you use build mode to create the iso and then write mode ,check out the GUIDES FORUM for a step by step

     

    and no you dont burn the MD5 or PLS files

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