dbminter

What you apparently did was simply copy all 6 CD image files to the ISO. While this isn't a total failure, all you can do with that disc is load each CD image file from the DVD in ImgBurn and burn them to CD's. Or mount them in virtual CD drives from the DVD. What you need to do is burn the CD image files to disc or mount them as virtual drives and copy the contents from the CDs, not the CD image files, to 6 temporary folders. You were probably asked for a 2nd DVD because you burned the job twice, putting the burned ISO file into ImgBurn's queue for burning. MDS is just a pointer to another file. So, in your destination folder, the MDS was actually pointing to the ISO file that ImgBurn created. For instance, with your original 6 CD image files, the MDS files point to the MDF file, which is actually the CD image file. MDS just tells ImgBurn how to burn the MDF/ISO.

Yeah, I was wondering if, given the small file size, the resulting Synchronizing cache might take a long time because it has more to pad out. I just wasn't sure.

How long did you wait at the Synchronizing cache? I've seen it take up to 15 minutes sometimes on DL media, but your screen capture shows SL media. In your burn, you're burning a smaller size image file, it seems, so there may be a longer Synchronizing cache wait there. I don't know. Those discs from the first screen capture say they're MKM, so they appear to be the good stuff, although I don't recognize that particular DID string; so it doesn't appear to be cheap media you're using. Try seeing if there's a new firmware update for your drive. In Write mode, right click on the destination drive letter (Your burner's drive letter.) and choose the check for firmware update option, which, I think, is the very last one at the end of the list. Also, post the log of these failures. They help more than screen captures. Under Help, choose ImgBurn Logs.

Yeah, when you change the file association, you don't need to do it for each individual file. You've changed the file association for all files ending in the .PDF extension. Well, it's not really as simple as just copying over all 6 CD's to one Build job. You can choose to copy and not overwrite existing files, but there's no guarantee the installer will work that way when you run it. What you can do is simply copy all 6 CD's contents to their own individual folders, 1, 2, etc. into a Build job. You'd first have to copy over each CD to its own folder, 1, 2, etc. on your hard drive and then add each folder to a Build job. That way, you can insert just the one disc and run an individual installer from each folder. That's probably your best bet. 6 CD's might not fit on a single layer DVD and you may need a DVD+/-R DL or a single layer Blu-Ray disc.

Since these files are apparently PDF, what I would recommend is after they're installed, look for any files with PDF extensions and just copy them over. That way, you shouldn't need anything "installed" from this CD at all. You should also search the install CD itself for any PDF files. That way you can just copy them over instead of having to install anything if the installation works that way. Then, you could use your own PDF reader. Acrobat Reader 3? Wow, how old are these install CD's?

If you want to use your old PDF reader instead of Adobe's, you can try uninstalling Adobe Acrobat Reader in Add/Remove Programs. It should restore the old file association for PDF to your old PDF reader after uninstalling Adobe's. If it doesn't, you should be able to restore its association by reinstalling your old PDF reader. I would think, in theory, you can copy the contents of the install CD to a new folder on the micro-card and then run the SETUP application from the root directory folder that is on the CD that is now in this new folder on the micro-card.

Well, that appears to be a software installation disc. Notice the SETUP application file? This disc wants to install something. You may need to install this disc's contents to access the text readable information. It seems to be in PDF format because there's an Adobe folder which indicates to me there's an installer for Adobe Acrobat Reader to read PDF files with in case you have no PDF reader installed. At this point, without actually executing the SETUP application, I can't say. Although the AVI folder would contain video files. This doesn't seem to be a disc with anything to read stuff from. It seems more of a software application installation disc.

Leave the troubleshooting information in the original post. I'm most likely to forget tech support via private messaging. If you're having trouble with burning an ISO and nothing else is problematic, the first thing to do is recreate the ISO into a new ISO and try that. It's rare but sometimes ISO source files can be the problem.

Yes, I'm not familiar with a Disc ID of MBI, so I'd have to say they're a dodgy brand of discs. Try Verbatim's DataLife Plus series. NOT the Life Series you find in stores. DataLife Series can only be found online.

I, too, have commented in other posts the deviousness of CMC. I do believe they purposefully chose their name because MCC media was the good stuff. And I think MCC is supposed to stand for Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation? Then, for DVD+R DL, Mitsubishi changed the DID to MKM for the Kagaku in the name Mitsubishi Kagaku Media? CMC never predicted the name change and were screwed, stuck with their old name! I'm surprised they didn't change their company name to something like KMM to compensate.

If you've used these discs before without problem and it suddenly starts failing, then the problem is your drive. It probably needs replacing. How long have you been using these discs and this burner? It could just be you got all the good discs in a row and suddenly you're getting all the bad ones. That's the nature of iffy media. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Switching to higher quality media is always the first step I recommend. More than half of the problems we see on this board are caused by dodgy media. Most of these problems tend to go away when you switch to higher quality, genuine, non CMC Verbatim media. It's not the end all, be all solution, of course. But, it will isolate if it's a problem caused by cheap media or not. If it still happens on higher quality media, then the problem is most likely your drive. It probably needs replacing, especially depending on how long you've been using it.

Yes, try Verbatim DataLife Plus media. Not the Life Series. The only thing worse than some Ritek is all CMC Magnetics.

I know nothing about Linux, but you say this installer for Linux is on an SD card? Are you trying to use ImgBurn to create an image of the SD card? If you are, ImgBurn won't do that. It's only for imaging optical discs. Otherwise, I don't know why you're asking a question on this in the ImgBurn Support forum. Are you trying to create a bootable image in Build mode with the contents from this SD card? That might be possible.

I actually had a Verbatim VERBAT-IM BD-R burn failure today! It's one of like the 1% failures I've had burning about a thousand of these over the years. Most of that failure rate was attributable to a dying burner that needed replacing. Yet, still, a small portion of that value was actual failure. I still remember the one that failed because it was apparently cracked shipped from the factory. It was pretty much cracked all the way across the diameter of the disc! So, for those who question whether it really is worth it to switch from CMC media to high quality Verbatim media, well, a 1% failure rate out of over a thousand speaks for itself, I think.

I know that there are no layer breaks on multiple layer BD media because the format simply treats all the layers as one giant layer, virtually. But, what about the pause in layer breaks on DVD-9 media when you don't use Seamless Layer Breaks? On DVD-9, if you don't use Seamless Layer Breaks, you get a pause in the video on DVD playback at the layer break. What about on multiple layer BD? Are there such things as pauses in the video when the BD player switches layers on a multiple layer BD that is playing back BD Video? I'm guessing not since there's no such thing as layer breaks on BD, but I don't know. Thanks!

I had to change a Registry setting to disable double clicking starting any application. So, you may not want to do that as any double clicking on an optical drive will only open Windows/File Explorer and nothing else. This may not be the solution for you. And you may not be comfortable editing Registry keys because you can really cause a lot of damage if you don't know what you're doing.

Good that that was the apparent solution. It's certainly the easiest fix, though not necessarily cheaper. And it generally solves more than 50% of the problems we see on this board.

I've tended to find Pioneers are better readers than some other brands of BD drives. For instance, my Pioneer 2209 has been much better at reading than my LG BD was. The 2209 would read in discs that the LG wouldn't.

What could happen is only if the image file you're burning from is on the same drive as the location of the game you installed it to/running it from. Not the same partition, but the same drive. If the game is intensive in reads from the same disc, ImgBurn could go into Waiting For Buffers To Recover mode. Burning will stop until the drive stops being accessed enough to a level for resuming burning. This is precisely to prevent writes from failing. However, if the game continues accessing the drive repeatedly, ImgBurn may never get out of waiting for the buffers to recover. Your only choices are to close the game down or stop the burning, which would mean you've wasted a disc.

Switching from CMC is, admittedly, not the absolute, 100% end all be all solution to a problem like this. However, over half of the problems we see on this board are caused by cheap media; CMC is the primarily culprit. So, it is generally the first recommended step to troubleshooting the problem. If it persists, obviously, there's something else going on and the author of the application might have to step in on this. I'm generally confident in the switching from CMC solution, though. Doesn't always work, but it's the first step I would always recommend when someone is using CMC media.

To check, insert a disc and open ImgBurn in Write mode. In the pane of information in the upper right, look for DID/MID/Disc ID/Manufacturer ID. This will tell you who actually made the disc. The ones you linked looked good to me, too, but you can't tell from the outside packaging for sure. Found some on Amazon.co.uk that do say DataLife Plus on the box. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01GVZ6LK0/ref=psdc_430452031_t3_B0047V24MA Here in the US on Amazon.com, the only DataLife Plus BD-R you find are inkjet printable ones. All the other Verbatim BD-R, the good stuff I've found, don't have the DataLife Plus label on them. Outside the US, Verbatim apparently does put out a DataLife Plus BD-R for branded discs.

Unfortunately, it's not just a case of picking X brand. You really won't know for sure if a particular product you buy is good or bad until you get some and check them in ImgBurn. Or someone posts the Manufacturer ID in an online review. I've never heard of those you linked so they're probably not very good. There's a reason the good stuff has a higher premium on its price. However, my experience with BD-R I just bought from Amazon.com in the US was $22 for 25 discs, a little over a buck a piece. Yes, you'll save on cheaper discs but pay for it in the long run when they don't last as long as the more expensive stuff or you find your player has a problem playing back the discs. However, I'm in the US so it's probably not unusual I've not heard of AOne from Amazon.co.uk. Actually, I've never found DataLife Plus BD-R from Verbatim. I just use the regular white discs with blue text on them. I've had like 1 failure in a thousand with those. They have the DID/MID of VERBAT-IM-xx and I've used them without problem for years. I would, of course, only recommend DataLife Plus Verbatim CD-R, DVD-R, and DVD+R DL. The Life Series is what Verbatim farms out to CMC Magnetics, the worst media manufacturer out there. I didn't know Verbatim made Life Series BD-R, though. Most people find when they switch from CMC media, their problems go away and don't require replacing their drive or getting an external one, which would be your only option since you don't want to replace your laptop's model. Your laptop model is most likely the problem anyway. It would be a slim line unit and slim models are junk. I would try switching to non CMC Verbatim first as that will most likely fix the problem. Though it probably won't help you not being in the United States, these are what I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00471HK0Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On my Pioneer 2209, it seems to have a little issue with Full Formats on Ritek 8x DVD+RW. If a Write is performed to an unformatted disc, ImgBurn wants to format it first, of course, and then perform the Write. However, what I think ImgBurn doesn't do is cycle the tray after Format before the Write. What happens on my Pioneer is if I don't fully Erase/Format the disc first BEFORE Writing, the Verify will always fail. If I Quick Erase the disc after the failed Write and reburn the same image again, it passes Verify. So, it seems to be that I need to eject the disc after each Full Erase/Format before performing a Write or the Verify will fail. With this mind, I'd like to recommend a Cycle/Eject Tray After Format/Erase option. I've been aware of this for a while but I keep forgetting to Full Format discs on their own when I perform a Write to unformatted media of this kind. So, I waste time with unsuccessful writes that will always fail Verify. Thanks! EDIT: You can probably forget this suggestion. It wouldn't do any good in my case. Turns out the first write to these Ritek media under the current firmware for the 2209 will ALWAYS fail Verify. I had formatted a disc and ejected it, reinserted it, and burned content to it, and it still failed to Verify. An immediate write of the same contents to the same disc in the same drive after cancelling off the failed Verify works. Yeah, Pioneer has, once again, borked the firmware for Ritek 8x DVD+RW in its update to 1.51! First, the leap from 1.33 to 1.34 totally destroyed the drive's writing to these discs or the Verify behavior, one of the two, because Verifies would always fail. 1.50 fixed this, but 1.51 has added a new angle! Now they've borked the drive's ability to fully format the media. When the 2209 formats the media, Verifies will ALWAYS fail under 1.51. If you take these same discs that fail, fully erase them in another drive, and then write the same image in the 2209 to the same disc that was failing Verify after fully erasing in another drive, the Verifies pass. So, the problem is, once again, Pioneer has messed up the firmware, this time with full erases.

Under Help choose ImgBurn Logs. The log file folder will be opened. Open the log file. Try to see if you can find these different I/O errors, particularly on 2x. Generally, write errors on higher speeds are usually more generally resolved by choosing slower write rates. If you're still getting errors at 2x, something is up that LUK would be more aptly to determining.

Yeah, I should have been clearer on that. I meant by that that I had failed to see the Test mode on my first perusal of the log. After you mentioned Test mode, I went over it again and saw what I had failed to see before.