dbminter

What is the Volume Set Identifier? It seems to be a random string of letters and numbers.

No problem! What you might want to do is buy an internal burner but also buy an external enclosure for it. Some external burners, like ASUS's current model, are junk, too. I don't buy DVD burners anymore, but if I were going to get an external drive, I'd get an internal SATA Pioneer BD 209M burner and put it in an enclosure. They're pretty much my go to drives, although I have an LG internal BD burner as well because with the latest firmware, P209M drives don't properly write to Ritek 8x DVD+RW anymore. And it's been 2 years since they last updated the firmware, so it's not like they're ever going to fix that. The LG, unfortunately, has more problems. It doesn't properly write image files to BD-R/RE DL in ImgBurn, although other apps will write image files to it. It's a weird "issue" that has no logical reason for being, but repeated experiments by me and the results of another user prove it's there. Even though there's no difference in the code for writing an image file versus the on fly writing that does work. LG's are also pretty bad readers, so that might also explain your problem. Since it's failing on Verify, it's failing on a read operation and my LG fails to read a lot of discs my Pioneer would. Although I did have a weird case where my Pioneer wouldn't read a disc my LG would. Go figure! BD-RE DL's formatted as giant floppies also won't write to the 2nd layer. You'll get a weird bogus Windows message saying the source file couldn't be "read" even though it's a write operation that's failing! Lastly, LG's are capped at writing BD-RE SL formatted as a giant floppy at 1x, even though the drive writes BD-RE SL at 2x and the Pioneer writes the formatted discs at 2x. Personally, I'd avoid LG's all together if I could. The only reason I still use them is for the writing to 8x DVD+RW and that it reads and writes Ritek 6x DVD-RW that my Pioneer and ASUS USB won't. I got the last USB model made before ASUS's current one, back when I thought ASUS was a quality manufacturer. But, their current USB contains the same model drive, internally, as their current internal BD drive. And that was junk. 2 different copies of the same model did the same thing: destroyed 8x DVD+RW and BD-RE SL and DL! After writing to them, even when they were brand new and had never been written to before, they were totally unreadable after burn and could not be salvaged by reformatting. Any drive is stuck in a forever reading loop trying to read them, so you CAN'T format them to try and salvage them! The first LG I ever had was a DVD writer rebranded for IOMega. I got rid of that pretty quickly because it wasn't writing to DVD-R correctly. It was writing discs that caused skips in playback on DVD Video discs that my Optiarc drive didn't do. There's an old joke that says LG stands for "Lucky Good" because it's lucky good IF you get one that works right. That's why I stick with Pioneers. They have their own issues, but they're mostly annoyances, like the aforementioned firmware issue. Plus, I had 2 drives display the same quality control fault. After about 7 months, the eject button wouldn't work 1 out of 10 times. Pressing the eject button or issuing a manual eject command in ImgBurn wouldn't work, but, a 2nd immediate press or eject command in ImgBurn would work. And, it seems that every eject command ImgBurn issues after a write/before a Verify would always work. But, Pioneers generally last a long time, too. My first Pioneer is still in good working order after 4 years. I keep it on hand for use when I need one while replacing another. The 2nd one I only just had to replace earlier in the month because it wasn't writing files to discs anymore, but, I'd been using it for 2 years. The 3rd one I had wasn't as good, though, requiring replacing after 7 months. The 4th one I had went back to Amazon.com because it was borked right out of the box. Wouldn't write to Verbatim quality BD-R that my first Pioneer 209M was still writing to.

Ah, as I thought. Those logs were from the same Dell computer. I figured as such since the log said the same drive was being used in both logs. Ah, a slot drive. That's probably your problem. After you said it was a slot drive, I looked up the drive string on Google and found LG's page for the model. I saw its picture and the slot drive in question is a slim drive. Is the Dell drive that Verifies a full height drive? Slim drives are pretty much junk. If the Dell drive that Verifies is a full height drive, that probably explains why it works and since the drive that doesn't Verify is a slim drive, that probably explains why it doesn't.

Are you sure these logs are from 2 different Dell computers? Or are these Dells 2 of the same kind of model? Because the DVD drive in both logs is the same model. If these Dell PC's are both the same model then that would go a ways to explaining why the drives listed are the same. So, you're saying the same HL LG DVD drive model is in both Dells and that Verify passes on one Dell's HL LG DVD drive but not on the 2nd Dell with the same model HL LG DVD? If you are saying that, then it does seem the one Dell with the drive that fails to Verify has some kind of problem on it. Could be as simple as replacing the drive. Could be a cable or port issue. Could be a Windows configuration issue. Probably the simplest solution is to try replacing the failing drive. If you're adventurous/know how to do it, take the Dell's drive that works and swap out the one that doesn't work for it. If the Verify then passes on the one that works in the PC that doesn't, you know it's the drive. BTW, you're using CMC Magnetics discs. CMC makes the worst optical media out there. Try some better quality Verbatim DataLife Plus media. NOT Life Series media; they will be CMC, too. DataLife Plus series. I would normally be blaming the cheap CMC media; however, in your case, not here. It works in one drive but apparently not in another of the same model. That seems to not be a disc quality issue but a drive quality issue.

On the memory that I thought Alcohol read my Mega Man 8 10 to 15 years ago, I decided to test the latest version. Alcohol 120% Free Edition 2.0.3 Build 10121 on Windows 10 latest version Home Edition WILL read Mega Man 8 in a Pioneer 209M BD burner to an mds/mdf file set. However, ImgBurn cannot burn this file set. The image set is a mult-track image file set, which ImgBurn doesn't support burning mult-track CD's. There's an option in the Free Edition of Alcohol 120% to burn this set with, so you may want to to try that. My guess is Mega Man X 4, for you, and Strider 2, for me, read successfully in ImgBurn before because they're not multi-track discs? Anyway, as I said, you may want to try Alcohol 120% Free Edition for reading/writing Mega Man 8.

Now, you can always set AWS settings, which LUK just pointed out to me for the first time , to set maximum write speeds you define for given Manufacturer ID/Disc ID for specific media types. If Write Speed is set to AWS and you've defined X speed for that particular MID/DID in the AWS settings, ImgBurn will automatically set your user predefined maximum write speed for that media. Remember, the write speed you get may not reflect the maximum write speed you define. You may get a lower write speed based on your drive and the write descriptor for the speed on the media.

Thanks! Should have checked the Guides first, or at least done a search. Sorry! I must have been for you with this post. I don't know why I would have set this to AWS if it's not automatically set by ImgBurn. I've never set specific MID/DID media write speeds and don't really intend to. I just always use Maximum write speeds, even though, sometimes, one shouldn't. I should probably change Write Speed to Max, even though it seems to automatically set it to Max if there's no defaulted AWS setting for MID/DID of the inserted disc.

What does AWS for a Write Speed setting mean? What does AWS stand for? It's my current setting for Write Speed, but I admit I've no idea why it's set or what it means. Must be the default set by the ImgBurn installer? Thanks!

In the Write window, in the lower right hand side, there's a Settings section. There, there's a drop down dialogue labeled Write Speed. This will set the Maximum write speed, so set your desired speed to the highest you want to go. Unfortunately, the actual write speed you get is down to the drive and the media's write speed descriptor. So, you may not get that maximum speed you set. Now, if you wanted to set a speed that is less than the maximum, I don't think there's a way to set a user defined speed. Just the maximum write rate. So, the closest you can get is to change the maximum to the speed you want, or an approximation close to it.

In the Pioneer BD Drive Utility for my BD209M drive, there's a PureRead section in the options. There's a tick box to enable or disable it and a sub setting for Perfect and Master Modes. Does anyone know what these settings do? I was wondering if these settings might change the performance of ImgBurn's Read mode on this drive if I enable PureRead and select one of the Modes for it. Also, there's something called Advanced Quiet Drive Feature. There's an option to turn it on and off and sub options of Persistent Quiet Mode, Quiet Mode, and Performance Mode. I had this setting turned on with Performance Mode enabled, but I disabled the feature entirely, thinking my Read speeds in ImgBurn would increase. Was I right to do that? Would that affect my Read performance in ImgBurn? Thanks!

You're welcome.

Yeah, as I thought, it's not a writer but a ROM drive. A DVD-ROM drive. https://www.cnet.com/products/teac-dv-28s-v-dvd-rom-drive-serial-ata-series/specs/ Anyway, that explains why ImgBurn found no writers, of course, because the drive is not a writer but a read only drive.

I would first make sure Windows is recognizing that you have a drive connected. Make sure it shows up as a drive letter in File Explorer/Windows Explorer. If Windows detects the drive, make sure it actually is a burner and not just a ROM drive. Have you written to this drive before in DVD43, if it writes to optical disc? Are there no drives detected at all when you start ImgBurn? Check the log window and see if ImgBurn detects anything. Maybe it's only detecting a ROM drive, even though the drive may be a burner. Go into Read mode and see if ImgBurn recognizes a read only drive. Open ImgBurn and without doing anything else, copy and paste the log from the log Window of what ImgBurn generates on start. That might help us some more. I'd be more likely to first make sure the drive is actually a writer and not a ROM drive. Also check under Device Manager and make sure there are no error messages that might indicate a problem with the drive. And check to make sure some writer is detected. If Windows detects a writer, try writing files to it in File Explorer/Windows Explorer. Make sure it actually works under Windows and that it's just ImgBurn not detecting it. If Windows does detect it, you could try any of the other interface driver options (I'm not too familiar with those.) in ImgBurn and see if you can coax ImgBurn into finding a writer. Beyond that, maybe LUK can offer more help than I.

I've got to admit, ImgBurn is one smart cookie. I got an error message I had never received before while testing this new Pioneer 2209 in an enclosure. After 5 successful BD-R burns in a row, I got a weird error message saying it couldn't finalize the disc because of corrupt media. W 10:27:00 Retry Failed - Reason: Medium Format Corrupted E 10:27:02 Finalise Disc Failed! - Reason: Positioning Error Detected by Read of Medium I ejected the disc, after being forced to power off the drive and back on because it was stuck in a loop on the unreadable media, and discovered the cause. There was a crack running through part of the disc from the center hole. I'm hoping the drive didn't cause this and that the media was just one of those 1 in a 1,000 failures you encounter from genuine Verbatim media. ImgBurn is one smart cookie! It actually pegged that the media was corrupt.

I'm trying to remember. I think this is normal ImgBurn behavior, but I'm not sure. I believe I had it happen before on my other USB 3.0 BD burner. ImgBurn is detecting this SATA Pioneer 2209 I've put in an external enclosure as a USB 2.0 drive in the log window. It should be USB 3.0 because the cable has the blue connector inside it and the shape of the cable plugging into the drive end isn't the old USB shape, which leads me to believe it's USB 3.0. And it should be since the enclosure was advertised as USB 3.0. However, as I said, I believe my other ASUS USB 3.0 BD burner was also detected as USB 2.0 in ImgBurn. So, this is normal, right? Thanks!

Technically, there's a "layer break," according to IFOEdit, at the end of every VTS, it seems. Of course, these aren't actual layer breaks, because, as you say, there is only one real one and that's on DL discs. But, these "layer breaks" are even on DVD-5. And, for a while, Nero's version of DVDShrink was adding layer break pauses randomly to the output of DVD-9's shrunk to DVD-5. But, that was 14 years ago I last tried that software, so, hopefully, that's been fixed by now. I also had a homebrewed DVD where it added a layer break to the stream of a DVD-5. And I couldn't remove it! Removing it with IFOEdit broke the navigation of the VTS.

Now, this is like 15 years ago, but I THINK I got Mega Man 8 to read in a LiteOn DVD drive with Alcohol 120%. So, it may be down to a combination of the software used, the drive, and the particular disc.

Well, I can't guarantee it's not the discs that are the problem. It could be the ASUS just doesn't like those Verbatims, but Verbatim BD-R SL and BD-RE DL (IF they're real Verbatim.) are the best quality BD discs out there. (Their BD-RE SL is CMC Magnetics, the worst manufacturer out there.) Or those Mediarange discs may not be true Verbatim. But, I'd be more willing to concentrate on the burner being the problem. I had pretty much nothing but major problems with that ASUS you're using and consider it to be junk. And if you do swap in a Pioneer and still have problems, you know it's not the drive being the problem. Because Pioneer is pretty much the best you can get. If the best still has a problem, then it must be a problem with the discs or some kind of Windows or PC hardware problem that would be the cause.

I have a possible suggestion, although it may not swallow well. I had one of those ASUS drives you're using here. Two of them I tested out, actually, and it's pretty much junk. I never even got to the point of testing BD-RE DL with it before I sent it back for a refund. I tried another copy of the same drive to see if maybe I just didn't get a bad drive, but they both did the same things, which means it's a problem with the drive. First failure was Ritek 8x DVD+RW. It would write to the discs but Verify would always fail because the drive borks the discs, even when they're new! They're unreadable after writing and cannot be reformatted to recover. Second failure was writing to BD-RE DL as a giant floppy. It would write to the disc but, as with the Ritek rewritable discs, render them unusable afterwards! Third failure was the same kind on a new BD-RE DL, from Verbatim, like the first failure. Same results. So, the drive doesn't write rewritable media correctly, for sure. If it can't do something that simple, I can't see it writing BD-R DL media correctly either. And some drives, like LG's, support writing to BD DL media, but they don't do it correctly. So, on to my solution: replace your ASUS drive with a Pioneer BD burner. Pioneer's have their own problems, but they seem to be the drives that have the highest success rate at writing BD DL media. I've had 4 Pioneer 2209's over the past 4 years, with a new one on the way. My first Pioneer still works save for the eject button issue that seems common to Pioneer BD drives. I've never used BD-R DL in it, but I write Verbatim BD-RE DL's every month on Day 1, with daily file backups going to BD-RE DL's. I can't see a Pioneer that writes to Verbatim BD-RE DL failing to write to Verbatim BD-R DL. Plus, a few other people with BD DL burning issues when they took my advice to replace LG's with Pioneer fixed their burning issues that way. So, as I say, it may solve your problem, too. However, it's not the "easiest" solution and definitely not the cheapest. It may be the one more likely to solve your problem, though.

The reason ImgBurn recognizes the disc as VERBAT-IMf-000 is because Verbatim actually made those discs for Mediarange. Which is actually kind of surprising that they're not using cheap CMC Magnetics for them instead of the good stuff that Verbatim makes. IF those are true Verbatims, of course. The Disc ID can always be faked.

I was actually going to test my Mega Man X 4 disc, too, but chose Strider 2 from Capcom instead.

If ImgBurn had made discs with this drive before, then there's a configuration error somewhere. The ID string of the drive seems to be a generic one, so Windows doesn't seem to think it's an available writer. Have you tried using Windows' built in writing to write a disc and see if it works? Use a rewritable one if you have one available to save using a disc. If Windows won't right to it, then Windows thinks the drive is not a writer but a reader. Now, there's always the chance the drive could have gone bad and needs replacing. However, generally, Windows shouldn't rethink itself if that happens to a drive and call it what it isn't. Windows would just generally keep the old settings even if the drive stopped working correctly. As LUK said, check Device Manager to check the drive's status.

You're welcome. Glad I could help.

Have you tried the nuclear option? Get an entire new PC from a manufacturer you've never used before, get an entirely different drive, and try that? Actually, you may not have to go that far. Have you tried an entirely different burner? Not just putting the burner in an enclosure and testing it. I'm forgetting. I think you said you had tried the drive in an enclosure before and that worked? Or did it also fail on the enclosure. If it works on an enclosure but not internally, it's some kind of problem with the SATA connection. Either on the drive, the cable, which I think you said you tried replacing, the motherboard, or something being installed by ImgBurn or Windows Update that is causing the problem. And, you said everything appears to work fine until you install ImgBurn. So, have you tried a fresh install of Windows 10 with the modem disconnected so Windows Updates can't be installed and then try installing ImgBurn?

Try 4dots Free Audio Converter. I believe that has worked for me before in the past; I currently have it installed, anyway. I also have Hamster Audio Converter installed, but I don't know if I've ever used it for fixing this case. Both utilities are freeware.