dbminter

Yeah, it could be the CMC MAG DVD+R DL discs you're using. CMC MAG is CMC Magnetics, the absolute bottom of the barrel optical disc manufacturer. When it comes to DVD+R DL, the only really viable option is Verbatim DataLifePlus MKM kind. Although I've had good results with TDK's DVD+R DL in the past, I still stick with Verbatim's. NOT Verbatim's Life Series you find in brick and mortar stores. They will be CMC.

Have you tried running ImgBurn in Windows's Safe Mode? See if it will open there.

Is this a recordable disc or a pressed DVD? The book type says DVD-ROM, but I'm not sure if that's just a recordable disc that has had its book type set to DVD-ROM. However, I'm guessing it's a pressed disc because I'd think if it was a recordable disc, the log would have listed a Disc ID. My main guess, though, is your drive seems to be an LG BD? My experience with LG BD drives is that they're pretty rotten readers. I've had discs that my LG won't read that my Pioneer will. (And, yet, I had a case where my Pioneer wouldn't read a disc but the LG would. ) Also, are you sure this disc plays okay to begin with in a DVD player? It may simply be bad and unreadable at that part to begin with. However, I doubt that.

After doing all the various things you did and what I suggested, I was leaning more towards the Samsung player as being at fault, as I said. You replaced your burner with a Pioneer and that solved your Verify problems. However, you were still getting playback errors on the Samsung but not on the PC. The PC was burning, Verifying, and playing/reading fine. So, the most likely culprit was the Samsung player.

If your stand alone player supports MP4 and WMV native playback, you can use ImgBurn to copy these files to discs and have your player load them. If you play them in Windows, they will load from the discs ImgBurn makes. If you expect your MP4 and WMV files to play as DVD's, you will need to convert them to VIDEO_TS contents. ImgBurn won't do this, but it will burn compliant VIDEO_TS folders made by applications converting MP4 and WMV to DVD VIDEO_TS. I use ConvertXToDVD to convert such files to DVD, but it's not freeware. You have to pay for it, but you can get a watermarked, I think, full trial where you get an entire DVD but it has a watermark that plays all through the video. But, it does give you an idea of if the software is for you or not.

Also, if you have AnyDVD running while burning a disc, you should disable it. It's been years since it did this, so it may not anymore, but I always disable it when burning for that reason. With it enabled and writing to 8x Ritek DVD+RW, the rewritable discs always failed Verify until they were completely erased with AnyDVD disabled. It didn't do this on DVD-R or DVD+R DL.

As I said, it's hard to tell anything based on the exterior packaging. Sometimes the single media test can be the better way to go and sometimes it's more cost effective to get a package of a few, depending on how much the cost per disc is. For instance, if you need 50 of a particular media, it's often cheaper to buy 2 25 cake stacks versus 1 50 stack. However, sometimes it's better to just roll the dice. For instance, I found an Amazon.com seller selling so called DataLifePlus DVD+RW for $18 each. However, the label on the package said nothing about DataLifePlus. Amazon.com sells what it calls DataLifePlus DVD+RW for the same price for 10 of them. However, Amazon.com's listed item picture also doesn't say DataLifePlus on the package. So, it's probably better to roll the dice on the 10 of them and see.

There are none so blind as those who will not see, and Samsung, it appears, won't see. Sort of like Freemake. I point out all kinds of repeatable bugs in their software, and they just use excuses like it's iTunes's fault to avoid having to do any research into their own software. I've never even seen a 4k movie, so I can't say anything on that subject. I think those are the DataLifePlus Verbatim BD-R DL that showed up on Amazon.com. I've never used any, so I can't say. I can only attest to the quality of DataLifePlus media from Verbatim. Except for their BD-R SL which aren't labeled as DataLifePlus but still appear to be quality media, I always look for DataLifePlus on the package of Verbatim DVD-R, CD-R, and DVD+R DL. Otherwise, you will get cheap quality CMC media. As for the other BD-R DL, couldn't say. Never used one. Plus, you can't really tell based on the outside package. You need the interior branded label or the Disc ID returned by ImgBurn.

Try the DataLifePlus BD-R DL I forwarded before. DataLifePlus is the good stuff that Verbatim makes. If those fail, then you know either your standalone player doesn't like BD-R DL or just that brand of manufacturer. As I said, I've never used BD-R DL, so I don't know if the Pioneer likes those or not. It does like the BD-RE DL made by Verbatim/TDK. (TDK sometimes makes Verbatim's BD-RE DL. TDK is also a generally good manufacturer, but even they will sometimes farm out to CMC.) However, you should be able to tell if it's those Japanese media or not. If the Pioneer still doesn't play the DataLifePlus BD-R DL media on your PC, then you'll have to try something else beyond Verbatim's.

Even if you somehow got bad copies, that won't cause discs to fail Verifies or prevent them from playing in a standalone player. They play fine on your PC but not your player, so it's the player. The failures you were getting at the Verifies were at the start of the 2nd layer so those were either problems with the burner or the media or a combination of both. The player probably has no problem with BD-R SL media. But doesn't like BD-R DL media. Or at least the manufacturer type of the BD-R DL you're using. So, you can shrink DL BD movies to SL discs, then by all means, you know that works. Now, one thing to possibly take into account, are you burning the same image file over and over again in your tests? There could be a 1 in 100 chance that the image created is bad. You could try recreating a new image and see if that helps. About the only thing you can do is keep trying media to see if something is tolerated by your player, but most likely you won't find something that works as I still say it's your player.

Mitsubishi Kagaku Media is basically the parent company of Verbatim. They make Verbatim's high quality DVD and CD media. However, not everything labeled as Mitsubishi Kagaku Media is high quality Mitsubishi Kagaku Media. I got some BD-RE labeled as Mitsubishi Kagaku Media on the package, but CMC Magnetics actually made them. CMC is the bottom of the barrel optical disc manufacturer. And even Verbatim farms out to CMC for their cheaper DVD and CD Life Series media. In fact, Verbatim no longer makes its own BD-RE SL, instead farming them out to cheap ass CMC. Only thing I could find from doing a Google on VBR260YPV1 is that they go back to at least 2013. So, I don't know if Verbatim actually made those or not. Well, your 4k player probably plays TL media fine when it's pressed media. There are differences between pressed media type and recordable media type. A standalone player may have specific picky issues with recordable media. Given how large 4k discs would have to be, I can see them being TL media. But, they will be pressed discs which have a higher likelihood of playing on a standalone player. For instance, when the PS2 came out in 2000, it would play certain DVD-R when made in 2002 but not always. And it would be random. I'd burn a disc and the PS2 would skip on it. Then, I'd burn the exact same image, the exact same media type, in the exact same burner, and it would play fine. As I said, I'd be more likely to say your player doesn't support recordable multiple layer media. Since these discs complete burns and Verifies and play on your PC but not on your player, the problem is with your player. You could try different media manufacturers until you get lucky, but it's very iffy. Using an entirely different program to make the source video shouldn't matter at all, but if you want to try it, go ahead. I could tell you all kinds of stories of Sony junk from 2002 to when I finally gave up on them. PS2's that needed new drive assemblies after a year, PS3's that needed replacing within a month after purchase, Sony switching from making their own DVD-R to lesser quality Ritek media, BD-RE's that were junk, BD-R's that were junk, PS3's 2nd version of its Blu-Ray remote that dies within a month after purchase, top loading PS2's that don't play DVD's correctly because top loaders were the main quality problem of the PS1, so WHY go back to them just to save on production costs is beyond me. All just leading towards the inescapable conclusion that Sony quality started going downhill in 2002. Before 2002, Sony made great PS2's, PS1's, CD-RW, and DVD burners.

It could just be your player doesn't like BD-R DL media. If that's the case, the only way to fix it is to replace the laser, probably. Which means just getting a new player. Especially since you said these discs play fine on your PC drive but not in your standalone player. Since these discs appear to have burned and Verified fine, as evidenced by how they play on your PC and not on your Blu-Ray player, it seems the problem is with the Blu-Ray player. They don't like the particular brand of discs you've been using or just don't like BD-R media at all. For instance, my Playstation 3 doesn't properly play BD-R made by Ritek, but those same discs on BD-R made by Verbatim play without problems. BTW, the Disc ID for those Verbatim BD-R, I think, is the same as the one on the Verbatim BD-R DL you've been using. As I said, it's kind of confusing being able to tell if you've got quality Verbatim BD-R DL media then. As for Sony, I'd avoid them all together. In my opinion, Sony has made little but junk since 2002. Only 3 products I can think of they've made since 2002 that I encountered weren't junk. My first BD-RE was a Sony disc. It died before 5 writes. The only BD-R I have ever had that failed a burn, not a Verify but a burn that weren't because the drive were dying were like 1 or 2 Verbatim and consistently Sony's.

Also, do you have an image of the product you've been using, these Japanese discs? I've never used Verbatim BD-R DL, but my Verbatim BD-R are these: https://www.amazon.com/Verbatim-BD-R-25GB-Branded-Surface/dp/B00GSQ4DBM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510335421&sr=8-1&keywords=verbatim+bd-r+25gb+6x+with+branded+surface+-+50pk+spindle+98397 I've had only like 1 or 2 failures that weren't dying drive related in the 5 years I've been using these. Of course, these aren't BD-R DL's. But, they do have blue branded surfaces. The Disc ID on the Japanese ones you've been using seems to be the same as all the Verbatim BD-R SL's I've ever used. So, it's kind of confusing, using the same Disc ID for different media formats. Thus, it's kind of hard to tell if you've got good stuff or not. I have no use experience with BD-R DL, so I can't really comment on how well they work or don't. Just a general consensus based on people's posting of their results with them. Seems like even the Verbatims have had a higher rate of failure. But, is it lower quality media or just cheaper/older/just not good BD drives?

Wait, you say this last burn in the Pioneer failed Verify yet plays fine on the PC? I can see a PC playing a burned disc that passes Verify fine but a stand alone Blu-Ray player failing to play it. But, I cannot see a disc that fails Verify but plays fine on a PC. If you're going to try for a different kind of Verbatim, Verbatim does make a DataLifePlus BD-R DL. However, they're all label printable surface so they cost more. DataLifePlus is Verbatim's high quality brand of media. For instance, you get the DataLifePlus DVD+R DL and not the Life DVD+R DL if you want Verbatim's high quality DVD+R DL. I've never used Verbatim BD-R DL before in my Pioneer (Or ever.), only Verbatim/TDK BD-RE DL. So, it may be in your better interest to try the DataLifePlus series first. https://www.amazon.com/Verbatim-DataLifePlus-White-Inkjet-Printable/dp/B004HA8IQC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1510331836&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=datalifeplus+bd-r+dl&psc=1

You really shouldn't downgrade the firmware unless you do experience problems with writing rewritable media. Interestingly enough, I did some tests yesterday on the 1.34 firmware. Since I discovered they don't make 8x DVD+RW media anymore, my Pioneer drive not writing to the Ritek versions properly is not an issue anymore. Once I go through the ones I have, that will be it. Except there's a seller on Amazon.com with 3 25 cake stacks left that I'll try to get some of. And I'll just use my LG or ASUS USB to write those. So, since 4x DVD-+RW is all you can get anymore, for the most part, I updated my Pioneer's firmware to 1.34 and tested my 4x DVD+RW and 4x DVD-RW. Those tests were fine on the 1.34. So, Pioneer only borked the write strategy for Ritek 8x DVD+RW. Or Ritek DVD+RW in general. I believe my 4x DVD-RW are Ritek, so it isn't a problem with all Ritek rewrtiable media. Maybe just Ritek DVD-RW or only just the 8x DVD+RW. One of my DVD+RW tests was to a Ricoh disc, and Ricoh makes Ritek. Anyway, I wouldn't worry about it unless you actually experience a problem writing to Ritek DVD rewritable media. First, you'll need to get the 1.33 firmware update package from firmwarehq.com for your drive. The best/easiest way to to do this is to right click on the Pioneer drive in the drop down list of available drives in Write mode and use the check for firmware update option at the bottom of the list of options. Then, from the web page that opens for your drive, download the proper 1.33 package for your drive. You may need to check the list of drives in the log that ImgBurn finds when it first opens to see what revision package ID string matches your drive. Then, open that .EXE in 7Zip and find the largest file inside the archive. Extract that file as it will be the firmware package. Open a Command Prompt and use the command: dvrtool -f <Drive Letter>: 132 where <Drive Letter> is the drive letter of the Pioneer drive you want to flash (Don't use the < or the >) as shown in Windows/File Explorer and 132 is the name of the firmware package you extracted in 7Zip. For instance, my 1.33 firmware package called the firmware file 132, even though the firmware is 1.33.

Which has the most available free space, after formatting by ImgBurn, to write to? DVD-RW or DVD+RW? Even though the difference may be very minor. Which has the the most available free space? DVD-R or DVD+R? Doesn't DVD-R have slightly more available space than DVD+R? Thanks!

It seems that the gradual death of optical media has begun to increase in rate of speed. Seems that 8x DVD+RW media can't be found online anymore. Google returned no stores selling 8x DVD+RW and Amazon.com had 1 seller offering only 3 25 disc cake stacks of Ritek 8x DVD+RW. Ritek already discontinued their 6x DVD-RW years ago. And they were only ever compatible in my tests with LiteOn drives. All other drives supported them, but always failed Verifies or simply never begun writing to the media. 4x DVD+RW is still available as of now. In fact, DataLifePlus, the higher quality, is still found on Amazon.com and on Verbatim's web store.

Not sure why this is in Test. Should probably be in Chat. And I don't know what you mean by modality of writing, but I'll offer my suggestion. Go for a Pioneer model. Either the 209 or the 2209. I've had 4 2209 models and they've performed the best of all the BD writers I've used. Avoid ASUS's internal BD as it destroys rewritable media. Avoid LG's model as it claims to write to BD-RE DL media, and does, but rarely does it properly. If you get a Pioneer, be aware you may have to downgrade the firmware if it's 1.34 to 1.33. At least one type of rewritable DVD media was borked with 1.34.

Yeah, I don't know if any older Blu-Ray players supported X/TL/QL media. In fact, as far as I know, standard Blu-Ray movies were never released in more than 2 layers. I think triple and quad layer BD-R was for backing up data only. It may have changed with 4K Blu-Ray now. Which means, of course, your Blu-Ray player would have to be a 4K player.

I kind of made a mistake. The 2209 is how Pioneer lists its drive that supports XL media on its website. The 209 is how it names the model that doesn't support XL media. For instance, ImgBurn returns my Pioneer as: I 17:39:34 -> Drive 5 - Info: PIONEER BD-RW BDR-209M 1.33-ID60 (K:) (SATA) It calls it the BDR-209M, even though it's the 2209 model listed on Pioneer's website. http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Computer/Computer+Drives#products Yes, the confusing idea that a triple layer writes to 100 GB. Single layer 25 GB, understandable. Double layer 50 GB makes sense. So, why does triple layer have 100 GB? Because the 3 layers in the XL/TL media are not the same size as single layers used in SL and DL BD! The layers the XL media uses are 33.3 GB each. So, XL media are not precisely 100 GB but 99.9 GB. Makes a lot of sense, doesn't it? As for what M-Disc are, M-Disc are media designed for long term archival storage. As long as you have a DVD+R supported DVD drive/player, M-Disc DVD will be readable. I don't know if you need an M-Disc drive to read M-Disc BD or not. Probably not. Recordable BD uses layers of metallic oxide to burn to. These last longer than CD and DVD recordable media because they use organic dyes, which decay over time quicker. However, recordable BD won't last forever, either. M-Disc is akin to using a chisel to chip pits in stone. Stone will last longer. The laser burns pits into the M-Disc recordable layer. If you're not looking for long term archival storage, then M-Disc is not something you'll probably use. In fact, I've only ever used about 5 of them because they were free sample discs included with my LG and Pioneer drives. I used them for a few data long term archives for data I can't replace. Just to use up the free samples. The discs are expensive. About 5 times the cost of CD-R/DVD+-R/BD-R. For instance, a DVD-R costs about 50 cents to a dollar. An M-Disc DVD+R costs about $5.

I've only ever had the 2209, not the 209. However, the only difference between the 2 is the 2209 supports BD XL and M-Disc media and the 209 doesn't. I never used BD XL media and I don't use a lot of M-Disc, so it's a feature I can do without. Next time I get a Pioneer, I'm going to try the 209 over the 2209. A few things about the 2209 that might apply to the 209 that I've experienced. There's a fundamental design flaw in the eject button of the 2209. Two 2209 drives I've had had this problem. After about 7 to 9 months, the eject button doesn't always work the first time you press it. Pressing it a 2nd time causes it to work. Issuing a manual eject command in ImgBurn can cause this, too. This happens 1 out of 10 times, maybe. However, it seems that all eject commands issued by ImgBurn after a write/read operation seem to always work. The other issue is with the last firmware released for the 2209. Pioneer borked writing to 8x Ritek DVD+RW media. Verifies will always fail because the write strategy is borked. All future writes to the disc in any drive will also fail until the media is fully erased in a drive that doesn't have the latest firmware or another manufacturer's drive. Firmware 1.33 does not do this, but 1.34 does. Both the 209 and the 2209 have 1.34 as their latest firmware revision number. However, since the laser may be different in the two drives, the 209 may not have this issue. I doubt it, though, and believe it does. It's in the write strategy for the media, which I would think would be the same across all the firmwares. And Pioneer, in their update notes, says they changed the write strategy for DVD media. Really vague there, but Pioneer generally releases firmware update notes in such useless, broken English. So, I don't know if this is across all rewritable DVD's or not. If you come across Verifies that fail on DVD rewritable media, you may want to downgrade the firmware for the drive and see if that helps. I downgraded my 2209 from 1.34 to 1.33 and it resumed writing the media properly. So, the problem is in the 1.34 firmware. The firmware for these drives hasn't been updated in over a year, so it's doubtful they will ever be updated. I told Pioneer about this, but they don't give a Downgrading the firmware is relatively straightforward. It just requires downloading the downgrade tool and the 1.33 firmware package. Then, opening the 1.33 firmware package in 7-Zip and extracting the largest file in the executable, which will be the firmware. Then using a command line, calling the downgrade tool to point to the firmware package and the drive to be downgraded. Now, I have some cause for concern that the 2209 Pioneer quality might have gone downhill. I still have my first one, and it's 2 years old and still works. My 2nd one is just under 2 years and also still works. My 3rd one, though, had to be replaced after 7 months. The 4th one went back to Amazon.com because, out of the box, it was borked writing to BD-R that my 2nd 2209 still wrote to fine. Also, I've never actually written any BD-R DL media in the 2209. Only BD-RE DL media from Verbatim and TDK, but both work. So, I don't see why the 2209 would have a problem with Verbatim BD-R DL media. However, I can't guarantee it will work.

You could, if you wanted, create a few extra folders for backups of those files, too, if you wrote them to a DVD-+R. While it probably never would happen, if you got a bad sector on the disc and couldn't read the files from the disc, the backup folders may still be readable and thus recoverable. While what would most likely happen is a bad sector would either not be limited to 1 or it would, most likely, render the entire disc unreadable, it is a cushion you might fall back on. You can play those MP4 files directly from the disc you make on a PC. Your DVD/Blu-Ray player has to support playing MP4 to play them from the disc and its navigation has to be programmed to accept MP4 input from optical disc. But, if it does, you shouldn't have problems playing the MP4's back from a disc.

And, it depends on how you intend to play these video files, too. Depending on the method, that determines the type of disc you'll need to create. And that method determines how large the resulting disc needs to be. If you're just putting the 3 files on a disc, then, as LUK said, just add up the file sizes and see if it fits on a CD-R/RW, DVD+/-R/DL, or BD-R/E SL/DL. For instance, if you need the videos to play on a DVD player, then, you'll need to see if your player can play them from a disc. Otherwise, you'll need to convert the files to a DVD-Video VIDEO_TS, which will be larger than the files.

Utter, total, absolute, complete failure with TotalMounter! Useless. W 11:17:23 Write Speed Miscompare! - MODE SENSE: 4,234 KB/s (24x), GET PERFORMANCE: 5,540 KB/s (31.4x) I 11:17:24 Write Speed Successfully Set! - Effective: 4,234 KB/s (24x) I 11:17:24 Filling Buffer... (40 MiB) I 11:17:24 Writing LeadIn... W 11:17:24 Failed to Write Sectors -150 - -124 - Reason: Logical Block Address out of Range W 11:17:24 Retrying (1 of 20)...

Ah, was not aware of virtual burners actually existing. Those two options are paid software, but there is a freeware called TotalMounter. I think I'll try testing that out. Thanks! Interesting. Says TotalMounter is free, yet, on its download page, quite clearly calls it a trial! All over its website it says free yet its download page says trial. So, which is it, you idiots?! Or is it sort of like VSO's Downloader. Page says it's free to use and then cripples itself after a week unless you pay for it.