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dbminter

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Everything posted by dbminter

  1. You're right. I didn't take into account multiple layer discs. I was thinking entirely of CD-R/W, DVD-+R/W, and BD-R/E SL.
  2. I have a question about how ImgBurn, or I guess reading in general, is done with recordable discs that have images written to them. Hypothetical: say you have a recordable disc, CD, DVD, BD, I don't think it matters. And you've written an image that takes up half of the available space on the media. The other remaining half is unburned dye/media. Let's say a deep scratch occurs in the unburned area that does not go into the recorded area. When ImgBurn/anything goes to read the disc to an image file, would this scratch prevent ImgBurn from reading the disc? Does ImgBurn only "scan" the burned area to determine what is burned on the disc and thus what to read? Thanks!
  3. What does the 2048 number next to Mode 1 mean in the settings? It's a multiple of 1024, so it's a binary value, that much I know.
  4. Got my wires crossed with that other thread where the poster had problems with BD-R DL media not playing on his player. I had forgotten he had resolved that by coming to the conclusion that his player was the problem. Anyway, SOME of what I said still applies. The next step is getting the player to recognize a DVD+R DL had been inserted. Then, testing it by playing to see if there any playback problems like skips, pauses, hisses, or pops.
  5. Now might come another problem. The verification problem has been resolved by the higher quality Verbatim media, but your player may not particularly like DL BD media, regardless of the manufacturer. Or it may just be picky on Verbatims. It really is a sort of crap shoot of trial and error. For instance, I know my Playstation 3 will play BD movies written to Verbatim BD-RE DL, but I've never written a single BD-R DL before. And I know that the PS3 is picky about BD media. It will play Verbatim BD-R fine but will not properly play Memorex BD-R made by Ritek. Verbatim BD-RE, back when they made them and not CMC, also play fine in the PS3. What you'll want to look for first is that your Blu-Ray player even recognizes that you inserted a BD-R DL to play. If it finds it, that's the first hurdle overcome. Then, what you'll want to look for is playback of the BD-R DL. You'll want to look for skips, hisses, pauses, and pops in the audio/video. Especially if it stops playing and then "skips" ahead.
  6. I've never owned an Xbox, so I couldn't say anything about it. Sorry.
  7. My parents never had an 8-track player, so I never had a cassette. But, where my mother worked up until about 1985, the owner of the place played 8-track tapes over a speaker system in the store. So, I have seen the players and held some tapes. I had a PC where you stored programs I wrote in BASIC on audio cassettes. Back when programs consisted of the fabulous 10 PRINT "HELLO WORLD!" or the infamous 10 GOTO 20 20 GOTO 10 My first x86 PC was a 286 I got for high school work in 1992. It had a whopping 40 MB hard drive. 2600 baud modem. 5.25 and 3.5 inch floppy drives. Had one of the infamous Turbo buttons I snapped off putting the case back together after swapping in a 14.4 k modem. Luckily, the button was in the on Turbo position at the time. I think it ran MS DOS 4.x and Window 2.x. Did you know that even in today's modern PC BIOS, there is the basic interface for hooking up a cassette recorder for audio tape saved programs? For backwards compatibility. In case anyone ever would need to do something so archaic. Just like when you type. When you type on a PC keyboard, the BIOS converts your typing into punches for the system to read. Yes, just like on those old punch cards.
  8. Ancient? I can still remember rethreading video tapes that have snapped. I'm also not too young to remember 8-track tapes.
  9. There's no image. The link just opens the main imageshack page. Post the log. That's what we need. Under Help, choose ImgBurn Logs, open the log, find where there error is, and post the entire log of that burn that failed.
  10. Hm, interesting. You'd think Mode 1 would have been only for CD's since CD's came first. Therefore, you'd think the first mode would be for CD's and thus Mode 1. Ya loin sumtin new every day.
  11. Found this: http://www.cdrlabs.com/forums/mode-versus-mode-discs-t8075.html Seems the difference between the 2 modes is Mode1 has more error correction built in. It devotes more available disc space to error correction than Mode2. Mode2 will let you store more data on a disc than Mode1, but you sacrifice the extended error correction in Mode1. So, you probably do want Mode1 versus Mode2.
  12. I use Mode1, UDF 2.60 for all of my data archives to Blu-Ray media formats. However, I don't know anything about Linux, so I don't know if UDF 2.60 is supported on it. I would think these options should make a disc readable on Windows 7. I've used these options for Windows 8.1 Update 1 and all flavors of Windows 10 that have been released without problems accessing the data on the discs later. I know this is forwards compatible with Windows 8.1 Update 1 and all versions of Windows as discs I've created on Windows 8 were readable on Windows 10. Your instance, though, is backwards compatibility, so I'm not certain on that. I don't know the difference between Mode1 and Mode2. If a file name is too long, ImgBurn should notify you before it starts creating the image after you press the "burn" button that it's too long. It will tell you the file name/folder structure and ask you if you want to continue.
  13. Tools --> Settings --> General --> Page 1 --> Options --> Check the box next to Don't Show Status Bar Messages (*) Now, disabling the status bar messages might prevent some troubleshooting messages from appearing, right? Sometimes, like when ImgBurn just locks up, that the only "error" you'll get will be from the status bar messages.
  14. Not all Verbatim are created equal. Verbatim Life series you find in brick and mortar stores and online will be CMC Magnetics. CMC is the bottom of the barrel optical disc manufacturer. Verbatim DataLifePlus MKM is the only really consistent quality DVD DL blank. (Although I've had good results with TDK's.) You can probably only find Verbatim DataLifePlus MKM media online. Like I can only get mine from Amazon.com. Most people using CMC DL media who switch to the quality Verbatim discs generally find their problems go away. It's not a be all, cure all, but it generally fixes the problem. And if this started all of a sudden out the clear blue when you had gotten good results on CMC before, that could just be the nature of the beast. You got lucky before.
  15. Yes, CMC Magnetics media is, most likely, your problem. CMC is the bottom of the barrel optical disc manufacturer. It's not really magic that a good portion of all the problems we see here are caused by CMC and other cheap media. People's problems generally (Though not always.) tend to go away when they switch to good Verbatim media. And, for DVD+R DL media, Verbatim MKM is the only really reliable manufacturer. (Although I've had good results with TDK's brand.) To get the Verbatim MKM media, you'll have to look for DataLifePlus media online. It's generally not sold in brick and mortar stores. What you'll find in those stores and sometimes online is Verbatim Life series. Do NOT get that! Verbatim's Life series is, yes, sadly, CMC media. Yes, shame on Verbatim but they do farm out to cheap ass CMC, too, for some of their media.
  16. Ah, now I think I see what this does. You enter in the Disc ID of a kind of media and you can tell ImgBurn to always use that write speed whenever ImgBurn detects that type of disc has been inserted. So, what I'd think you'd want to do is insert the type of blank media, and, in Write mode, check for the Disc/Manufacturer ID in the right pane of information and copy and paste that DID into the Disc ID field. Then select the highest write speed you want to be enabled for this media.
  17. I would think the Disc ID should have nothing to do with the speed at which a burn writes. That's determined by the write strategy on the disc and the write strategy present in the firmware of your burner. Disc ID should just be a string looking for the manufacturer ID present on the writable disc. I'm currently writing a near full 25 GB 2x BD-RE, so my ImgBurn will be in use for more than 45 minutes. Thus, I can't go into the settings and take a look for you right now. Region 1 is the region for North American DVD's, yes. Blu-Ray uses letters, I think, for Regions now. The only settings I know about that would control how fast a burn goes are on the Write page when you burn a disc. Where you can set MAX or a lower allowed rate allowed by the media and the drive. As for an exact amount of MB to write at, I don't know how to do that. And, even if you change the write speed, sometimes the drive will just overwrite the user setting.
  18. You know? The weird thing is, it happens. Settings get changed that we didn't change. There's really no rhyme or reason behind it. Except the general culprit is Windows changed it for you without your desire to change it.
  19. Yeah, they appear to have already been written to but were not completely written correctly. The incomplete sessions status is rather odd for a stack of new discs. You might want to try some other DVD-R and see if it's your drive always returning this same information on all DVD-R.
  20. Yeah, the DID of MBIPG101-R05-01 seems to indicate these are made by Moser Baer. I know little about them, but a Google of this info seems to indicate they're an Indian based company. Since I've rarely heard of them before, they're probably not quality discs. Try Verbatim MKM/MCC media. Do NOT get the Life Series media, which you'll find in brick and mortar stores and sometimes online. You'll want the DataLifePlus variety, which you can only find online. Like where I get my Verbatim DataLifePlus media from: Amazon.com.
  21. You're welcome! Wish I could have been of better help.
  22. Hm, well, if it won't start in Safe Mode, something is up somewhere. Unfortunately, given the relatively unhelpful nature of the error message, I couldn't begin to tell you what to try. LUK, the author, might have a better idea. Sorry.
  23. If you're saying Windows won't boot in Safe Mode at all, you've got a more serious problem than just ImgBurn not starting. Or are you just saying ImgBurn won't start now in Safe Mode?
  24. I haven't read the pinned post, so I don't know what they're saying by Dye, but dye is generally determined by the manufacturer of the media. Meaning that certain dyes work better than others and that each manufacturer makes their own dye. And when they moved to Blu-Ray, they changed MID to DID (Disc ID) just to make it more confusing. The MID is what really matters because that will tell you the manufacturer of the media. Yes, look for DataLifePlus on the package. But, here's the catch. You probably won't find any DataLifePlus media in a brick and mortar store. I only find them online. I get mine from Amazon.com. Yeah, the label on your first image says they're Life Series. That means they're CMC's junk brands. That 2nd image is what you're after. Or something similar with DataLifePlus on the label. Now, switching from CMC to MKM is not a magic bullet that cures all issues. However, the majority of issues we see on this board are caused by CMC and other cheap media and when people switch to, in this case, MKM DVD+R DL, their problems tend to disappear. So, it's what I generally recommend to start troubleshooting verify issues with. The bottom line, sadly, is Verbatim is a business and all they care about is money. If they can leverage their good name and still slap it on junk media like CMC, they will do it. Verbatim used to make their own quality BD-RE. Now, they only make CMC BD-RE with their name on it. They know that most people won't know the finer details of what you should and shouldn't buy. They know that people want to spend as little as possible, so they take advantage of that by slightly lowering the price of the CMC media they slap their good name on. I wish it weren't the case, but the bottom line is they don't care. Optical media market is dying, and Verbatim is trying to squeeze out the last dime they can from a drying revenue source. Verbatim uses, as far as I know, two manufacturers. They don't make their own. CMC, the junk, and MKM, which is Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation aka MCC. Notice now CMC calls themselves something close to MCC to try and trick people? Mitsubishi is the highest quality manufacturer out there now that Taiyo Yuden has closed up shop. Verbatim probably, I don't know for sure, doesn't sell MKM media in stores because it costs more for higher quality. Even though the cost is about double, you're still only paying like $1 per blank. However, people would rather spend 50 cents over a dollar. Of course, if they knew the quality difference, they'd spend the extra 50 cents because it's only 50 cents. Plus, there's a bigger profit margin on CMC media because it costs less to manufacture. I know Verbatim has been using CMC since after 2010, but as to exactly when they were, I couldn't tell you. The age of your drive could be a factor. It could be so old that newer media is just not tolerated by the drive. The maximum rated write speed is determined by the write strategy in the firmware of your drive. A firmware update for you drive may increase maximum write speed. However, it's always possible your case may be, given the age of your drive, your drive will default to something slower like 2.4x. If it tolerates the media at all. It could be the case in this instance the failure you're experience is caused by newer media on an older drive. However, I would start with trying the quality blanks first and then working downwards in terms of troubleshooting. According to your log, it looks like you're failing Verify right near the layer change, shortly after the start of the 2nd layer. The vast majority of failures on cheap DL media will occur in a Verify at the layer change.
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