dbminter

UMEDISC-DL1-64 are from Verbatim's Life Series. Life Series are usually CMC Magnetics, so I wouldn't be surprised if UME DVD DL discs are CMC. CMC Magnetics is the bottom of the barrel manufacturer, and Verbatim does tarnish its good name by farming out to CMC for its Life Series discs I've seen in brick and mortar stores. Ether way, I'm sure, since they're Life Series, they're cheap media, probably CMC, and this is probably causing your problem. Your error appears to be right at the layer change, where most failures will occur on DL media, especially with cheap media. As LUK said, get the MKM DVD DL discs. They're the best. But, you usually can't find them in brick and mortar stores. You have to look online for DataLife Plus (NOT Life Series.) media.

Ah, that probably explains it. In brick and mortar stores, even the good stuff, like Verbatim, is the CMC cheap stuff. Except for BD-R, interestingly enough. Verbatim BD-R sold in brick and mortar stores is still quality stuff. When you say the specs for your burner are under 30 Mbps, what exactly are you talking about? If read speed, then it might be a problem, but I doubt that's your issue. What would happen is your drive would cache data from the disc more often. Does this jerky motion occur on a standalone DVD player? Also, is the audio "jerky?" If both audio and video are jerky, then it's probably the disc you used. The player doesn't like reading that kind of manufacturer's media. Or your burner didn't burn to that kind of media very well, even though the burn completed. If it's just jerky video, then it's probably the result of how the video was authored to begin with.

I believe he's saying he tried to burn a DVD to update/program his car's navigation system and that the navigation system does not recognize the DVD as being inserted. Unfortunately, it's probably down to the drive not recognizing that particular manufacturer's DVD has been inserted.

So, it probably wasn't a Blu-Ray Video ISO to begin with, but a DVD Video one. Unless it was a container file that plays on a standalone Blu-Ray player. As I said, most of the problems we see here are caused by CMC Magnetics media. When people switch from them, their problems generally go away. Not always, but usually. If you ever find you need BD-R's in the future, get Verbatim. Don't get Verbatim BD-RE, though. Verbatim farms out their BD-RE to CMC Magnetics. They used to make their own, but not anymore. Their BD-RE DL are quality, though. I've never heard of Maplin before, so it doesn't surprise me that they're cheap discs. Then again, I live in the United States, so maybe in England, Maplin is a known quantity.

It seems unlikely a Blu-Ray Video disc would be just 2 GB. Unless you made it yourself. Did you create it? If so, did you add a VIDEO_TS folder to the ISO? If so, that's a DVD Video disc. If it's a DVD Video disc, you have to burn it to a DVD in order to get a standalone player to recognize it. Blu-Ray is more scratch resistant (They're not scratch proof. Take a pair of scissors to them and see if they resist scratches.) but if you put VIDEO_TS to a BD disc, you can only get it to play in a software player on a PC. Unless the ISO just contains a container file in 1920x1080. A 2 GB container file might explain that. If that's the case, then burning to a BD might have its advantages. A standalone Blu-Ray player that supports reading that container file type from BD discs would work and you'd get the scratch resistance you want. You could try burning it to a DVD. If it's not a CMC MAG DVD, it would help isolate if your problem is caused by CMC MAG BD. However, you may end up "wasting" a disc. If it is Blu-Ray Video content, then a standalone Blu-Ray player won't play it either. Blu-Ray players check the physical type of media inserted to decide what format to play. Blame stupid Sony for this.

Go to Help --> ImgBurn logs, open the log file, find the entry in the log for one of these Check Condition error burns, and copy and paste that part of the log into a post. That may provide a little more helpful information. However, my guess, given that screen shot you posted, your problem is the cheap media you're using. CMC MAG makes the absolutely worst recordable media out there. 50% of the problems we see here are caused by CMC MAG media and most of those problems go away when they don't use CMC MAG and use Verbatim DataLife Plus media. Also, why are you burning 2 GB to a BD-R instead of a DVD? CMCMAG-BA5-000 is BD media, so you're wasting 23 GB of available space burning the 2 GB image in the screen shot to a BD. Plus, if it's a VIDEO_TS DVD Video ISO, burning it to a BD won't play as a DVD in a standalone Blu-Ray player. Only on a PC.

Well, in this case, given the age of Windows 7 and the burner is probably much newer than Windows 7, maybe a driver might be needed? I know that was the case for my ancient 11 year old printer. There weren't 64 bit drivers for it when I finally moved to a 64 bit machine, so I had to finally get rid of it. Maybe optical burners are different and drivers aren't necessary except for generic ones that support generic hardware?

I did forget 2 things. Your target folder for creating a new image file may be on a FAT32 partition instead of NTFS. If it's FAT32, the new image file MUST be split into parts if the image file is greater than 4 GB. Since you said the image was 6 GB, if you have a FAT32 partition, you can't merge the split parts into a single ISO on that partition. Your ImgBurn settings may have image files split into parts at certain file sizes. If so, you'd have to change the setting so it doesn't split the image files if you were going to mount the image and create an image from the virtual drive. I believe I did say you would have to create an MDS in ImgBurn's Tools menu with the split parts if you didn't have an MDS for mounting in a virtual drive software.

And I can think of 2 alternate ways. Mount the split image in virtual drive software and use ImgBurn to create an image of the virtual drive letter without the splitting. The other way is a bit more work. Load the MDS or create one from the split parts in ImgBurn and load that new MDS. Burn the image to a disc and use ImgBurn to image the disc you just burned. So, use a rewritable disc if you have one to save on discs. It will take longer, but you won't have a disc you're just going to throw away. Thought of a possible 3rd option if you have UltraISO. UltraISO might be able to read in the MDS of the split image. Then, you choose to save the image as a new ISO file.

Are you using the Advanced Input mode? In that mode, there's a Size tab next to the Name tab that lists file sizes in KiB.

Is there anything on the disc when you put it in a PC drive and open the contents in Windows/File Explorer? Given the file size and the disc label, it looks like you were trying to burn a container file of a movie to a DVD? Maybe your player(s) don't support that container file type. 1 GB is awfully small for a DVD Video disc. Is this error message just on stand alone physical DVD players? Or is this being returned by PC player software? What exactly is saying the disc is incompatible? If it's a physical DVD player, it may not like DVD-R, which may be the case for older/cheaper/junk players. Or it may just be that the physical player doesn't like MCC DVD-R.

Ah, I actually miss the days of DOS. I preferred things back when you had an argument based option for running things. It was also easier to fix Windows applications errors by just deleting an INI file. No 10,000 Registry keys stored in 100,000 different locations.

I found some pages on using something called TFTP, too, to update the router. However, I've never had a router before, so I only know what I found while looking on Google.

Which .BIN did you get? There are 6. So, I just snagged the first one, "E2000 v1 Firmware - Webflash image for first installation." It is most likely not a disc image file. UltraISO doesn't recognize it as a supported image/bin file type either. So, it's just some kind of giant .BIN file. These guys are apparently idiots. They will also name their firmware files .IMG, making you think they're image floppy file formats. I did some digging, and these appear to be the steps to use to update that router with the .BIN file. https://www.linksys.com/us/support-article?articleNum=132961 Of course, I can take no responsibility for success or failure of this procedure, so do so at your own risk.

Ah, I never thought it may be a simple binary file itself. That the firmware itself is called a .BIN read by the router. Yeah, don't try burning it to a disc at all unless the router itself is looking for the file from a disc and doesn't ask you for a location of the file.

So, it is a data disc, not a music CD. It's odd they'd make it a BIN file. But, you can't help their F up. First thing I'd try, since it's not a music CD, is not to create a CUE file on your own as I originally suggested. Create an MDS File instead under Tools. MDS supports BIN. Then, try loading the MDS file in Write mode. Use a rewritable disc in case it doesn't work. That way, you haven't wasted a disc you can't use. If that doesn't work, then, you could try installing virtual drive software like Virtual CloneDrive. Try mounting the MDS file as a virtual drive and see if you can access the contents from the virtual drive. Then just copy the contents. Can you provide a link to the actual BIN file you downloaded from that page? The page you forwarded needs to know a string from your router brand name to download the proper firmware file, so the site as given isn't much help to me. With the actual BIN file to examine, maybe I can determine something or at least put the contents of the BIN or a converted BIN file to another format for you on my OneDrive account.

Yeah, I was going to ask why you're burning it to a DVD? If it's a data DVD, then I can see choosing to go that way because DVD burns faster and your PC won't care. If it's a music CD, and since you've got a BIN file, that would be most likely, but you'd need a CUE file to go with it. If it's a music CD, you'd need to burn it to a CD-R in order for a player to recognize it. You could try the Create CUE File option under Tools and see if that creates a burnable file set with a CUE file. However, you really shouldn't have to do that and I can't really see it helping in this case. Most likely, the BIN file contents are probably corrupt or are not a BIN file to begin with. The file got renamed as a BIN, maybe. How big is this BIN file?

I believe I had the same drive also in 2012. It stopped writing BD-RE after 3 months. The real killer was 3 DVD+R DL VIDEO_TS I burned with it. 2 of the discs had random pauses added to playback that weren't layer breaks. However, this was a common problem that plagued LiteOn DVD burners. It would randomly add pauses to the beginning of some video playback that weren't layer breaks. It was more random on the DVD burners, but 2 out of 3 DVD+R DL's on the BD burner from LiteOn did this. This swore me off of LiteOn drives altogether, even DVD burners as the DVD problem was present for years. Now, it's a moot point as LiteOn stopped making BD drives shortly after I got one from them and now apparently no longer makes any optical burners.

Could be because, as near as I can tell, your drive is a LiteOn Blu-Ray burner. I had a LiteOn as my first BD burner and it died after 3 months. And LiteOn, I don't think, makes burners of any kind anymore. So, their BD seemed to be junk to begin with. Just my opinion. I wouldn't know more unless you tried the latest Pioneer or LG BD drive, which I use. Though I recommend starting with the Pioneer 2209 before the 209 or the LG series burners. I know more about the 2209 than the LG burners, which I only use for one purpose. I've never used a Pioneer 209. However, the 2209 supports the M-Disc discs you had so you can use them with that.

Yeah, it appears to have been a random hiccup. Something in memory interfered with the writing of the image file. Could have been AV software that did it. It was so random that the image integrity was good enough to burn but the actual data was corrupted. I've randomly encountered that a few times. If I get bad burns from the same image file on 2 different burners, then I try recreating the image to see if that helps. If it still doesn't, then I isolate the possibility of the discs being bad in the entire cake stack. Or the incredibly random possibility that both drives failed at the same time. After I've done, of course, partition image restore tests of Windows to a point where I know burning discs worked first. Yes, lots of debugging work, sometimes.

It might be worth doing a disk error scan on the drive where these failed images were. You may have a dying HD or bad sectors. The image could be being saved in these areas that are bad. At least, that's a step I'd take. Unless it's an SSD, which I don't think you're supposed to perform error scans on?

There's no need to get a new burner unless you really want to use those M-Discs. It's probably cheaper just to get new discs. But, if you want to use M-Disc, by all means get an M-Disc capable burner. I actually have both a Pioneer 2209 and an LG one. The last released firmware for the 2209 borked writing to Ritek 8x DVD+RW's. They always fail Verify. The 2nd to most recent firmware doesn't do this. Plus, the last 2209 I got was borked right out of the box. Wouldn't write BD-R properly. Had to go back. And there's the Eject button problem with Pioneer's. After about 7 months, the Eject button won't work the first time you press it 1 in 10 times. Eject commands issued by ImgBurn manually won't work either. If you press the button/issue the command a 2nd time, it works. And ImgBurn's automatic eject command after an operation seems to always work, though. The only reason I still have an LG is because it does write to 8x Ritek DVD+RW properly. However, it has its own set of pretty lengthy problems. LG's are terrible reading drives. And the LG DL BD drives don't properly write to BD-RE DL, even quality media. They will usually fail Verifies or the data is not written correctly to them, resulting in corruption. Plus, the writing BD-RE SL as a giant floppy in Windows Explorer only caps out at 1x instead of the maximum 2x that the 2209 and my ASUS USB will achieve.

M-Disc are a special "flavor" of discs. For DVD's, they're a variant of the DVD+R format. If you have a DVD player/drive that supports DVD+R, and most modern ones should, you will have no compatibility problems with M-Disc. M-Disc is a special kind of disc designed for long term archival purposes. It's basically the difference between writing in ink on paper and chiseling words into stone tablets. The stone tablets won't decay as quickly as the ink on paper. It's basically the laser burning pits into "stone." For non M-Disc DVD, there's organic dye, which decays much quicker than an M-Disc would. The drawback is your burner must support M-Disc, as you've encountered. Pioneer's 2209 BD and LG's WH series drives do. Basically, if it doesn't say M-Disc on the package, that's what you're after, unless your burner supports M-Disc. M-Disc also cost more, but they do last much longer so the price can be worth the trade off. Any DVD-/+R/DL media will "do," however, there are a lot of cheap manufacturers out there, like CMC. And Memorex will farm out to them. As will Verbatim IF you buy the Life series sold online and in brick and mortar stores. What you'll want to get are Verbatim DataLife Plus series DVD-R/DVD+R/DVD-R DL/DVD+R DL, depending on the size you need, compatibility (For instance, DVD+R DL is more compatible with DVD players than DVD-R DL.), and what you're willing to pay for the quality you get. However, you can generally only find those online like where I get them at Amazon.com. Now, some drives simply don't like certain kinds of manufacturers' media. So, it really is a bit of trial and error before you find what works best for you. I just recommend the best quality stuff out there because most people generally don't have problems with Verbatim MKM (DataLife Plus) series media. I was relatively sure the miniISO file was some kind of emulation file, but why is ImgBurn excluding it? What if you really NEED to backup that file?

Yes, I was going to suggest the same thing. That drive probably didn't support M-Disc. A similar post happened a few weeks/months ago and that seemed to be the problem. BTW, what does this entry in that log mean: W 20:46:52 Removed Filtered File: \DVDFab.miniso What's a filtered file and why would it be removed? I don't think I've ever seen such a log entry ever before.

I wouldn't be too worried about it. Computers often times guestimate and programs make wildly inaccurate guesses. For instance, when I use Handbrake to convert video files, it will say initially that the time remaining to finish is -1:01. After a few seconds, it adds in the appropriate "real" values.