dbminter

Yeah, if your DVD player doesn't support MP4 container playback, it will return it cannot read that file. As Ch3vron said, you will need to either convert to a VIDEO_TS structure for DVD playback or use some converter software to convert the MP4 into a different container file that your player supports. If your player even supports any container file playback. Older ones don't and not even all newer ones do. For instance, in wasn't until I got a Playstation 3 in 2011 that I had a "DVD player" that supported things like AVI, MP4, MP3, etc.

I installed the madFlac filters and that seems to have done the trick. No crash when importing the original FLAC file that was problematic before. I can't believe I overlooked checking the Guides section!

Ah, I didn't think to check the Guides section to see if there might be a CUE one. That DLL may be several years old, actually. If it was installed by what I think installed it. It seems I can just convert that FLAC to another FLAC to prevent the crashes.

I tried adding a .FLAC created by Windows Media Player, but ImgBurn just crashes trying to load it. The crash dialog opens and asks if I want to send the bug/continue the application. If you continue the application, of course, ImgBurn just continues. I sent a bug report of the first FLAC. However, I tried a 2nd FLAC file and got a little further. I, at least, didn't get a crash and got a listed error. E 21:44:48 ConnectFilters(Source, Sample Grabber) Failed! E 21:44:48 Reason: No combination of intermediate filters could be found to make the connection. E 21:44:48 Hint: You may need to install some additional DirectShow filters in order to support files of this type or the file might be corrupt. Does ImgBurn support FLAC for CUE files? I converted the FLAC that was crashing ImgBurn to MP3 and it imported file. I used the same conversion software, Freemake Audio Converter, to save the file as another FLAC. ImgBurn didn't crash on that new FLAC, but returned the same errors as copied and pasted above. Would installing these DirectShow filters help in this case? How would I do that? Thanks!

Yeah, focus seems to be a persistent issue. For instance, Macrium Reflect is always stealing focus when it finishes a backup. Annoys me. And sometimes focus should be stolen and isn't! For instance, starting with Windows 8, Windows Explorer dialogs for file copying and "errors" or things like files already existing don't steal focus when they should. In fact, they sometimes don't even flash the system tray icon to let you know there's an error!

If your console can play burned games, it doesn't need one. Is it used? If so, then it already came modded, as I doubt Sega would release a system where you could just copy game discs. Although I do believe the Dreamcast came out before CD-R technology was developed. So, maybe it can read CD-R's, although by the same reasoning, if it was developed before CD-R's, it probably couldn't read them. Although the PS2 came out before recordable discs were widely spread and it will play DVD-R movies and CD-R audio discs. Not game discs, though. As for where you'd get a mod chip, good luck in getting one now. Given its age, I doubt you could find any Dreamcast mod hardware anymore. Unfortunately, even if they still made them, I don't know where you'd get them. Plus, you'd have to find someone still knowledgeable working inside one to install it for you.

That's odd. On my setup, it doesn't ALWAYS steal focus when the completion window comes up. It does occasionally but it's more often than not that it doesn't. Focus seems to a weird thing. It's sort of like apps where some versions can remember to keep windows maximized when you maximize them and some versions don't.

I tried searching with Google, but I found multiple solutions. And none of them seemed to work. I tried Unlocker, but that didn't work. The problem is the folder isn't really "there." It's an invalid pointer it seems. Attempting to delete it just returns a generic Windows error code that also applies to things including failed Windows Update updates. I tried the 7Zip solution and that seemed to do the trick.

I accidentally named a folder with a period at the end and now I can't delete it by any means I've tried. I know there's way to do it because I've done it before, but I don't remember how. It's either using the DEL or RD in Command Prompt, probably with a /S for RD. However, I think there were some other kind of arguments to bypass Windows API to properly issue the delete command? Does anyone know what I'm talking about and how to remove this folder? Of course, Windows ALLOWS you to name a folder with a period at the end even though it's NOT allowed! Thanks!

I had an inkling it did. I think I did have a WH14 at one point. Lasted about a year before it stopped writing to DVD+R DL. I think I found it in an actual brick and mortar store at Best Buy in town. About 3 or 4 years ago.

BTW, the LG WH16NS40 supports writing to M-Disc. The WH14NS40 might as well. Look on the front of the tray. The WH16NS40 has the words M-Disc on the left side. I'd guess if the WH14NS40 supported it, as well, it would also say M-Disc on the front of the tray. However, the Pioneer 2209 supports M-Disc but it doesn't say M-Disc on the front of the drive, anywhere.

I never considered protection plans because I know the instant I'd by one, miraculously, they'd last for all eternity and I'd be out my money. And, most likely, they would give up the ghost the day AFTER the protection plan expires. Yes, I have had that happen before with electronics. The day AFTER. Plus, I'm sure they have some legalese that they can worm their way out of paying you back/replacing your drive, saying it was normal wear and tear or you broke it. And what can you do? The laws were written to protect the major corporation's bucks.

By testing, I mean take a blank of every media you intend to burn with the drive, create an image to test it with, preferably an image that nearly fills the disc, and burn those images to the blanks. Just test if they finish Writes without error and finish Verfiies without error. Writes aren't as important as Verifies as far as I'm concerned. Writes will often times pass but will fail on Verifies of those Writes. You can, of course, perform disc scans, attempt to read the data back to image files, test playing movie discs on a stand alone player, etc. if you want to. I don't generally go that far. I just mostly care that they pass Verifies. And, to an extent, Writes, because one must be done before the other can be, of course. Be aware that M-Discs cost about 5 times as much as standard media. However, it can be worth the cost if you're really concerned about obtaining archival quality media. For instance, a DVD+R can cost between 50 cents and a dollar. An M-Disc DVD+R will set you back about $5. So, if you're willing to invest in them, by all means, get the M-Disc drive. You may find yourself using them more than I do. I'm just mostly concerned about the decreasing quality of my 2209 drives I've gotten. The first one still works, save for the Eject button issue. The 2nd one I still use for reading discs and for writing BD-RE DL and BD-RE SL as giant floppies. The 3rd one I had died after 7 months when it stopped writing BD-R properly. The 4th one was borked right out the box, failing on BD-R. Maybe I just got flukes, but I worry about possible quality decline of Pioneer drives.

I'd go with the Pioneer over the LG, but be sure to run tests on all media you're going to use with it to make sure the firmware works and you didn't get a low quality drive. As far as I know, the Pioneer is not Riplocked. I've copied many DVD's I've made with my Panasonic standalone DVD recorder and they copied in under 5 minutes, which makes me think the drive isn't Riplocked. However, I don't know if Riplock is only "kicked in" with CSS protected DVD Video discs. The Pioneer is definitely a better reader than the LG is. I don't recommend LG's for reading drives because I've encountered many discs where I tried to read in an LG but it wouldn't read certain sectors that the Pioneer would. However, I just recently encountered a DVD+RW where the Pioneer wouldn't read it but the LG would. Go figure. I've downgraded firmware 3 times on my Pioneers without issue. It's relatively risk free, but ANY firmware update, even updating with official firmware, has a potential risk any time. The most difficult aspect is extracting the actual firmware from Pioneer's .EXE with 7Zip. And you have to download a separate utility to install the regressed firmware. And it's command line driven, so you have to be relatively okay with Command Prompt and entering arguments into command line executables. There are 2 significant differences between the two drives. The 2209 model is the BDXL model. It writes to triple layer BD media and to M-Disc media. I've never burned any triple layer BD media but I have burned a handful of M-Disc BD media. If you're not interested in those functions, and I can live without them, then it's not necessarily worth it. I've never burned triple layer media because the moment you start adding layers, you get more potential problems writing and Verifying. M-Disc is a special type of media that costs more but will last a LOT longer than regular media. It's archival quality media. Think of it as using a laser but chiseling bits in stone and you can see why it lasts longer. M-Disc DVD media is readable in any DVD drive or player that supports reading DVD+R. As for BD, I don't know how well BD M-Disc works if you try to make a BD Video disc with it and it being playable in a standalone DVD player. I've received a few M-Disc media with Pioneer drives I've bought as a freebie and I always made backups of important data to the BD M-Disc. The 209 is relatively the same as the 2209 except it lacks the BDXL and M-Disc support. Now, both the 2209 and 209 have the same latest firmware revision number: 1.34. So, I don't know if the 209 1.34 is borked with 8x Ritek DVD+RW or not. The next drive I need, I'm going to try the 209 since I've never tried that before. The 1.34 firmware may be fine, but I don't know if it will work for Ritek 8x DVD+RW. But, I should be able to downgrade the firmware on it as I have with 3 of the 2209's.

If you never use rewritable discs, it may not matter. After I discovered 1.34 was borked for 8x Ritek DVD+RW, I stopped testing. I can't say for certain the firmware isn't borked for anything else, though. And it may only be on Ritek 8x DVD+RW. Or it may be on all DVD+RW. Or all rewritable discs. It's hard to say. Sort of like the ASUS internal I returned. I tested 2 copies of the model and it did this on both, so it's a design flaw. It destroyed 8x Ritek DVD+RW and Verbatim BD-RE DL. It supports rewritable media, but destroys them on attempting to write to them! So, what's the point of that? It's a shame because my ASUS USB drive performs flawlessly. Anyway, it turned me off to all future ASUS products. I can say the 1.33 firmware is fine. So, if you get a Pioneer with 1.34 firmware, you can always downgrade to 1.33 with a little work. If the drive isn't 1.34 firmware, you can always just get 1.33 and install that only. Or go for 1.34 and hope you have results.

MEI is the mark that Panasonic made them. Panasonic made quality DVD-R that I used for the first time in 2002 back when they were $15 each. Panasonic also makes the quality BD-RE SL I use instead of Verbatim's cheap ass CMC ones. Yeah, I don't remember what the blanks were in question in the past posts except that some of the complaints were using Verbatim. And it was really confusing as, for DL DVD media, Verbatim MKM was really the only high quality choice out there. So, it was a little baffling that people were getting all these errors on them. However, I never tested them in my Pioneer, which has a high rate of success with media... well, when you don't use the current firmware for DVD+RW.

What is the Disc ID of the Panasonic BD-R's? Panasonic may have put their name of them, but they may not have necessarily made them. Put one in a drive, open ImgBurn in Write mode, and check the Disc ID in the pane of information on the right hand side. For instance, Verbatim puts its name on its media, but they farm out to Mitsubishi for their good DataLife Plus stuff and to CMC for their Life Series junk as well as their BD-RE, even though their BD-R and BD-RE DL are quality Verbatim discs. They used to make quality BD-RE but now they farm out to CMC I've had 3 of the WH16NS40's. I tested all 3 of them when I got them for the first time. They all did the same thing, and they will continue doing the same thing until LG updates the firmware. However, LG hasn't updated the firmware for this drive in 2 years. As for success with BD-R DL, I can only recall the failures I've seen with Verbatim discs. I don't even know what hardware they were using. There was worry that the quality of the Verbatim BD-R DL might have dropped. I wouldn't have known as I have zero experience with any brand's BD-R DL.

I don't know for sure if I ever had the WH14NS40, although I think I had one before years ago as my first LG BD burner. Back then, I am pretty sure I never tried burning a DL BD media before. I think I never started it until I got a Pioneer. And I've never tried BD-R DL. Lots of people have reported lots of failures here with BD-R DL media, even Verbatim. I've only ever burned Verbatim BD-RE DL.

The only reason I have an LG WH16NS40 is because the latest firmwares for Pioneer's BDR-209M are borked for Ritek 8x DVD+RW's. I would keep getting the Pioneers, but the last one of these I had was borked right out of the box. Failed to write to BD-R's that my 2nd 209, which I still have, would. And the 3rd Pioneer I had, before that borked one, died on BD-R after 7 months. So, I have begun to question the quality of Pioneer drives over the last few years. Especially since I have my first 2 and they're still working after 2 years except for a design flaw in the model. After a few months, the Eject button don't work when first pressed. Pressing it a 2nd time works. A manual Eject command from ImgBurn does the same thing, but the forced Eject on Writes before Verifies always works. The LG WH16NS40 has its own killers. It does not write to dual layer BD and BD-RE at ALL correctly. Verify will fail 9 times out of 10 at the layer change. Plus, when you format BD-RE SL as a giant floppy in Windows/File Explorer, it writes to these discs at half the rate of speed of the Pioneer. Those are you two best options, and neither of them is great. I have one of each because of the problems both represent. I would try another Pioneer and simply use the downgrade utility for the firmware if you find it can't burn your DVD+RW correctly. The LG, otherwise, produces quality burns with quality Verbatim media. However, the last WH16NS40 I had needed replacing after 5 months because though it continued to write to everything else fine, it died on writing DVD+R DL. Always failed Verify at the layer change.

Oh, they won't even last half a decade. Maybe in the old days, CD drives were rated at a decade, but I've never seen an optical burner that lasted even last half a decade. I've only ever had 2 Blu-Ray burners that came close to 2 years. It's a combination of moving parts and the heat generated by the drive when in use. It has moving parts, so it's going to eventually wear out. But, before the moving parts will ever wear out, the drive will just "burn up." The heat of electricity constantly going through it and the heat of the burning laser simply generates temperatures that will wear out a drive faster. So, how often the drive is used will be a factor, yes. If they're used rarely, then, maybe you might get a few years out of a drive. I have 15 years of optical drive purchases. These have been my experiences. For instance, the last burner replacement I had to do was my LG BD burner because it stopped writing to DVD+R DL after 5 months.

If you've been using this drive for years, it's probably just reached the end of its life. On the extreme low end, you'll get 5 months out of an optical burner before it needs replacing. On the high end, 18 months to 2 years. If you really have had a drive that has lasted for years with relatively few issues, consider yourself pretty lucky. I'd peg it down to its age. The log you posted isn't very helpful. It's several logs contained in one log and, although I just glanced through it, I didn't see any errors reported in those logs. Just requests to cancel the Verifies. Without an actual error code, I doubt there's very little we can do.

Single layers are just as prone to be problematic if they're cheap, like CMC media. You've probably never encountered CMC's before. Hence why I always use Verbatim DataLife for CD-R, DVD-R, DVD+R DL, and BD-R. Unfortunately, Verbatim BD-RE SL are a no go because they farm all of those out to CMC. Multiple layers just always introduce problems. Whether they're DVD or BD-R DL or BD-RE DL, lots of burns here fail at the layer change or Verifies will tend to fail at the layer change. That's why I stopped using DVD+R DL for DVD-9 sized data backups and went to BD-R for them. They burn faster, no 2nd layer to fail, and will last longer.

There's an old Spanish saying that we all learn the hard way eventually: the cheap comes out expensive. At least they're not CMC Magentics media. CMC is absolutely the worst media manufacturer out there. As for the manufacturers not producing quality material, well, blame the free market economy. It's actually kind of surprising that ANYONE still produces decent quality blanks. Taiyo Yuden went out of the manufacturing business because the market for blanks is drying up. So, why shouldn't a corporation, who only cares about profits, make product and charge you for a quality one? They also know most people don't know the difference between junk and quality media, so they prey on people's lack of knowledge to make What's really hard to swallow is when a "good" company like Verbatim also farms out to cheap media. Their Life Series is CMC media, and they do make DVD+R DL. I used to swear by Optodisc 15 years ago. Then, they switched to CMC and I was getting 50% failures. I never looked back to them after that. As LUK said, try the Verbatim DataLife MKM series of DVD+R DL. If you get failures on those, the likelihood is high that the problem is hardware related and may need replacing. You cannot find DataLife series in brick and mortar stores. Only online stores, like Amazon.com where I get mine from in the U.S. As I said, DON'T get Life Series from Verbatim. You want DataLife.

If you're not burning VIDEO_TS, then there should have been no reason a layer break selection would ever have been prompted. As for using cheap discs, I almost replied to your log that you were you were using RICOH DVD+R DL. Pretty much the only good DVD+R DL is the MKM brand from Verbatim DataLife Plus series (NOT Life Series.) although I had good luck with TDK in terms of successful burns and being still readable years later. I had a few Ritek DVD+R DL but more than half of them weren't readable after a year. Ricoh is pretty much the same thing as Ritek. It could be that you had a good burn or a series of good burns and that bad discs will pop up again later because that's the nature of cheaper media. Some will complete burns, some won't.

Yes, if you don't have a VIDEO_TS folder in the root directory of the Job you're building, you won't get a window prompting you for a layer break position. That's only on DVD Video discs. However, this should have nothing to do with any check conditions you'd be receiving. For help with that, as LUK said, we'll need a posted log of a failed burn with the error condition listed.