dbminter

Definitely if you've got a 10 year old DVD burner, I'd blame that. The best performance I ever got out of a drive was over 2 years before it needed replacing. I've found most drives need replacing after 7 to 9 months of use. But, I do use mine a lot.

Is the LiteOn internal or external? Was this disc an MDisc you were copying? I've rarely used those so maybe they take longer to read back. I wouldn't throw the discs away. As I said, the discs are most likely not the culprit. One thing you could do is get some kind of software installation DVD disc and try to copy the contents from it and see if it takes a long time, too. If it does, you know the problem is not the discs you burned. Do you happen to remember if the Verify you performed took an hour? If it didn't, then ImgBurn is reading that disc at a "normal" speed. So, it would be something in Windows that would be the problem. You could try to temporarily disable your A/V and see if copying gets faster. Be sure to turn it back on when you're done, of course.

Hm, never seen a CD Control Error before. W 07:42:16 Failed to Write Sectors 2816 - 2847 - Reason: CD Control Error Is this BD burner internal or external? If it's external, you could try a different USB port or replacing the USB cable and see if that helps. I've also never heard of the model # of the drive you're using. It could be a cheaper model and doesn't like those Verbatim discs. You appear to be using the good Verbatim stuff, so it's not like you're using cheap discs. You could try getting a different manufacturer and model of BD burner and see if that improves your chances. Given that other software has returned failure errors, it's down to the drive, most likely. It probably has a compatibility problem with Verbatim BD-R. You could try and see if there's a firmware update for your burner. In Write mode, right click on the drive in the target on the left side and choose the update firmware check option near the bottom of the options. I would try first getting an external BD burner. A different one than the make and manufacturer you're currently using if your BD drive is already external. In the meantime, maybe LUK can better explain what a CD Control Error is. By its description, it does sound like a hardware issue going on.

Taking 1 hour to read a single layer DVD-R, even if completely full, is DEFINITELY not normal behavior. On my slowest Blu-Ray burner, I can copy an entire 25 GB, about 5 times the size of a DVD-R, in like half an hour. So, what's causing this? Most likely, the disc itself is not the culprit. Your drive may simply be a slow reader. There are cases I've seen where some drives, like LG, are generally slower readers than others. But, an hour? When I first started burning DVD-R in 2002, it used to take an hour to WRITE the disc, but not to read it. Could be the SATA cable or the port the drive is connected to. Swapping ports or the cable might help. Could be some kind of Windows configuration error or some sort of other error. Good luck troubleshooting something like that. Could be your A/V software slowing things down, too. Short of replacing your drive with some other manufacturer and model, there's really not much else I can think of to try. You could try and see if you had another computer where you could try to copy the DVD-R to. If it's still an hour and it's a different DVD drive being used, then it is the disc that is most likely the problem. Oh, should have asked. Is this drive connected by USB or internal?

Just because the data can be read from a burned disc, doesn't necessarily mean the data was copied 1:1 successfully to the disc. That's why if you have an image file, Verification against it is the easiest way to be sure the data was written properly to the disc. As LUK said, you could use some other software or the DOS COMP command to compare your source files against the contents written to the disc.

If LUK finds nothing wrong with the CUE sheet, try focusing on this entry: I 00:04:20 Destination Media Type: CD-R (Disc ID: 97m26s66f, CMC Magnetics Corp.) CMC Magentics makes the worst CD recordable discs out there. About half the problems we see on this board are caused by CMC and other cheap media. You can try Verbatim DataLife Plus (NOT Life Series you find in stores. They are CMC. You'll only find DataLife Plus online in stores like Amazon.com.) or "genuine" Taiyo Yuden CD-R. (Also only found online.) A lot of the problems we see on this board are solved when people stop using CMC media.

I don't know if it really makes a difference. I choose BUP over IFO because IFO directs how a DVD is a played. BUP is just a backup for the IFO's and I doubt it's ever really called upon unless the IFO can't be read. So, it seems more likely that a BUP file layer break set wouldn't affect actual playback of the DVD. Again, I don't know that for sure; it's just my preference.

Ah, looks like I misspelled Ch3vr0n again! Used a lower case c like I think I did before.

I sometimes mention on the CXD forum that people try ImgBurn for the actual burning of their output to isolate if it's the CXD burn engine that may be their playback problem. Plus, with ImgBurn, we can get logs, which will show if they're using CMC!

ch3vr0n from the VSO forums is also here, too. I always use ImgBurn to burn the VIDEO_TS output created by CXD. I like to be able to set my own layer break, if using a DVD+R DL where it's needed. Plus, I like to do things like add the containers in a DVD I create to the root directory of the disc I burn so they're "backed up" on the DVD I've created. Wherever possible, when prompted and allowed, I like to set my layer break on a .BUP file. It's essentially the same as setting the layer break on an .IFO file.

There is sort of such an option. Tools --> Settings --> Write --> Page 1 --> Check Cycle tray before Verify. Don't know if this will apply if you don't have Verify checked automatically, though. And, for Queues, you should probably set this option under Page 2 --> Queue Options --> Check Eject tray before next write. You should always have Verify checked after each write, anyway. See if these suggestions help.

DVD+R DL allows you to set your own layer break position in the ImgBurn options, but DVD-R DL, I believe, has a static layer break and cannot be changed. So, you'll get a pause in the video that may not be seamless and cannot be changed to somewhere else should you desire it. I don't know if they even still make DVD-R DL as its limitations and less compatiblity with DVD players made it less desirable for use. I tried a few to test with and quickly abandoned them in favor of DVD+R DL. Hey, are you the same reddwarf4ever I've also seen and helped on the ConvertXToDVD forums?

CMC has already changed the manufacturing process of some quality Verbatim discs to save money. They altered the DataLife Plus DVD-R and DVD+R so that they're useless in the LG WH16NS60 now. Had to switch to Taiyo Yuden TYG MID discs.

Yeah, like I said, as far as Verbatim and BD media go, they apparently use the same MID across different kinds of BD-R and BD-RE media. Those I linked to are HTL, so you're probably right. MABL is a way to indicate they're metallic oxide layers and not organic dye ones. Although why they didn't just say HTL on them is beyond me. Looked it up. MABL is short for Metal Ablative Recording Layer. And it is the inorganic, metallic oxide layer of HTL BD-R.

Are those the MID for the BD-R SL's? If so, they're the same ones I have from Verbatim that I've rarely had an issue with that wasn't the result of a failing drive's fault. However, that MID, I believe, is also used on the BD-RE DL's I have, too, also from Verbatim. So, it's slightly confusing. I've never heard of MABL branding, to my knowledge. Actually, just checked the ones I used and the package does say M-A-B-L on it. I had never noticed that before. Wonder what it means. Anyway, just ordered a stack of these today: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GSQ4DBM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Those are the ones I always use and they have that MID you mentioned on them. They're good ones I've been using for years.

Wow, LG is really grasping at straws to keep from fixing their own screw up! After writing them back yesterday after hearing NOTHING back, as I knew they would, they replied to me today. They want a photograph of the label on the drive! Well, they're not getting away with this and I'll send them whatever they want to get them to do their goddamn jobs!

I would think if you're willing to install Virtual CloneDrive, ElbyCDIO would be installed along with it. Or, alternatively, you can apparently just install the ElbyCDIO package directly from here: https://forum.redfox.bz/threads/elbycdio-6-1-3-0-driver-update.72695/

Depends. Post the log of a failed Sony CD burn.

My last contact from LG seemed to indicate they DO still make the WH16NS60. They kind of tried putting the blame on me, asking me if I actually read the label on the drive to make sure it was an NS40 and not just reading the box it came in. They said they'd let a higher up know so they could follow up on what to do. Which I know what they'll do: NOTHING! I'm not sure, but I think notifications are when you get replies to posts and an e-mail notifies you of the new content. However, why you'd be asked this each time you sign in indicates it's something else. Like push notifications, which I don't know what the contents of those would be. I don't get prompted to sign in each time I check for new updates. I guess I'm automatically logged in each time I visit the site, which I think I was able to set an option for that somewhere. Last I checked, PIODATA, on your recommendation, did not make BD burners. Couldn't find one anywhere on their site. The biggest problem is remembering to wear a mask. Not that I think a mask will protect me or others, it's just that if I don't wear a mask, I'm afraid some paranoid idiot with a gun will shoot me for getting too close like actually happened in Texas, I think it was. And the restaurants are still closed. I owe my mother 2 meals, one for her birthday and one for Mother's Day, so I'm behind there. Plus, I want to get somewhere where I can dine in on a pizza again. I'm tired of just Little Caesar's for pizza. And these one way aisles are ridiculous! I follow the rules, but I'm the ONLY one who does, so what difference does it make? And I want to be able to go into the library again to read the newspaper. Funny enough, I cut my big left toe on the first of May trimming my big toenail and it still hasn't fully healed yet. But, I heal REALLY slow from injuries.

This is your most likely culprit: I 13:21:56 Destination Media Type: CD-R (Disc ID: 97m26s66f, CMC Magnetics Corp.) CMC Magnetics makes the WORST optical discs out there. Most of the problems we see on this board are caused by CMC or other cheap discs. CMC would also explain why it worked at one point and didn't work later. CMC is like that. You can get some good discs but most are junk. Try Verbatim DataLife Plus CD's. NOT Verbatim Life Series you find in stores, which are CMC. You will only find the good stuff in online stores like Amazon.com. If you can't find DataLife Plus, try "genuine" Taiyo Yuden CD's.

By comparison, in terms of time taken, a BD-R burns a full disc and Verifies at nearly 25 minutes at maximum speed (12x) on the LG WH16NS60. 4 BD-R is 100 GB, so that's 25 minutes times 4 to complete a 100 GB backup. That time, of course, does not take into account creating the actual file sets or ISO's if you're writing to image file first. Plus additional time loading each new disc. So, that's 100 minutes of burn and Verify time alone. That's 1 hour and 40 minutes. Considerably shorter than 2 and a half hours. So, using BD-R SL is also less time consuming. Of course, that time payoff does equal you're having to store fewer discs if you're using TL media, so it may be worth the trade off.

I am thinking it did before Windows 10 2004. In my 1909 update steps, I said to assign .CUE to VCD. This implies I did it before on 1909 and it worked. I can't think I'd have said to do this if it didn't work.

Think I discovered a bug in the latest Virtual CloneDrive. CloneDrive used to mount .CUE files with associated .BIN files. I tried it just now and it says it can't, when it used to be able to. None of my .CUE files mount in CloneDrive anymore. The associated .BIN files still mount, but the .CUE files don't anymore. The error message is Can't mount "Image file name!" Maybe this is something associated with Windows 10 2004?

You could try changing the translation layer to ElbyCDIO and see if that helps. Tools --> Settings --> I/O --> Uncheck SPTI - Microsoft and check ElbyCDIO - Elaborate Bytes. Restart ImgBurn. If that doesn't help, try any of the other I/O options to see if one works. If you want to use SPTI for absolute certain, wait and see if someone else replies because I don't know about your issue.

About the spindles, it's hard to say. For instance, discs were never intended to be stored long term that way because they don't sell spindles except when you buy blanks. However, they're good enough to ship the blank discs in without too much damage to them. If I had to hazard a guess, I'd say there's no real downside to using them except when you need one from the bottom of the stack, you have to take out all the rest of them.