dbminter

Disc ID/Manufacturer ID is just a string of letters. You can put any DID/MID on any disc, regardless of the manufacturer. A decade plus ago, fake DID's were a problem. Cheap manufacturers would make crap discs and put good DID's on them to trick people into buying their junk.

That MID is generally good, but I added the caveat that it doesn't work on all burners anymore since CMC changed the manufacturing process. The LG WH16NS60 does not write properly to them anymore. DVD+R is not necessarily better technology. If you're more concerned about playback compatibility with older DVD players, you'll want to use DVD-R. Any DVD player made within the last few years won't choke on DVD+R, but if you're giving movie discs to people with older players like Playstation 2's and the like, you'll want to go with DVD-R. DVD-R is older technology, so it's "backwards compatible." I use DVD-R because I never know what kind of player a DVD movie might be inserted into.

Not every program writes in the same way. ImgBurn does it "best" by doing it "properly." Also, just because a CMC disc completes burn doesn't mean it did it right. The disc may be unplayable/unreadable afterwards. Yes, it's possible for a burn to complete, even in ImgBurn, but the disc to be unreadable. It's even possible to complete a write but it not actually be usable at all. And, CMC discs don't last as long. Even if it plays, because it's cheap, it will die sooner than a higher quality disc.

Here is your most likely culprit: I 12:15:58 Destination Media Type: DVD-R (Disc ID: CMC MAG. AM3) Don't use cheap CMC MAG discs. CMC Magnetics makes the worst media (And ironically owns the best.) out there. You probably got Verbatim Life Series from a brick and mortar store, which is CMC. Try either DataLife Plus (NOT Life Series.) Verbatim or high quality Taiyo Yuden discs. These kinds of discs you'll only find online in stores like Amazon.com and the like. The vast majority of the problems we see here on the board are caused by CMC Magnetics discs. Unfortunately, guess who owns Verbatim now? Yep, CMC! And they HAVE changed the process of their DVD-R and DVD+R so even the good stuff that used to work no longer works on the LG WH16NS60. So, I switched to the high quality Taiyo Yuden stuff. However, I believe CMC also bought them out, too! However, the high quality TY media seems to still be high quality. It, at least, works on the NS60. So, I'd recommend the TY DVD-R first and then try the DataLife Plus series because they may not work properly on your drive either now.

Burn failures are rarely the fault of the ISO or the program burning them. It's the media itself and/or the drive burning them. However, it's a good data point you know that the ISO plays fine in a software player. That way, you know the video contents are not damaged.

Interesting. LG has completely wiped their website of any mention of support for the WH16NS60. It's not an officially available product on their burner site anymore. The WH16NS40 is still there, but not the NS60. I wonder why. And, the product page for the NS60 is still available if you type in the original URL of it.

I believe the LG drives don't have user configurable settings. Therefore, there's nothing to change. I've never seen such a configuration utility for my LG drives, and I've had the one you mentioned, in addition to the WH16NS40 and the WH16NS60, which I currently have.

None. I believe, but I don't know for sure, Advanced Settings are only available for certain drive manufacturers. LG isn't one of them. I believe if the drive has a configuration utility you can download from the manufacturer's site, ImgBurn can make those same changes. I know the Pioneer Drive Utility settings can be changed with the Pioneer Advanced Settings in ImgBurn.

There is one possible scenario I had overlooked with this mystery package. LG reserves the right to return items sent to them that weren't requested. So, maybe LG is returning my drive I sent to them for some reason.

Got another mystery package coming by UPS. I've got no outstanding orders, so the only thing it can logically be is the replacement from LG. The drive I sent them arrived on Thursday. They appear to have replaced it without charging me for it. I said I'd be willing to pay for the repairs, but they never took down my payment information. So, I doubt they'd send me the replacement if they were going to charge me for it without charging first. I guess they replaced it for free?

You might get a better answer to that question starting a separate thread in the support. LUK or someone else is more likely to see it and answer it if it's a new post.

Sorry, I couldn't tell you. I've never used the queue feature before.

It usually means the write didn't complete correctly. There can be cases where a write is fine but the reading capability of the drive is what is at fault. It's rare, but it can happen. However, as I said, it usually means a write failed to burn correctly. What I never understood is how a write can complete but not complete correctly. At this point, since you're using the good Verbatim BD-R stuff and since you've tried using a replacement of the same model of a USB drive, I would try using an entirely new BD burner, different make and manufacturer. I've never used anything from TSST Corporation before so I don't know how reliable they are. Since you've tried using the same model twice in a row, you can pin it on the drive itself. Since this is a new replacement, I am guessing you used the USB cable it came with, so we can rule out the cable being an issue. If you haven't tried yet, you could try it on a different USB port to rule out a bad port. And since they're failing at the layer break, it's a common place for bad burns to fail at. I've also never used DL BD-R media so I don't know if Verbatim's are reliable or not. I know some BD burners simply aren't up to snuff for DL BD burning. For instance, though it writes to BD DL media, the LG WH16NS40 doesn't do it correctly and never has. The WH16NS60 does, though. I had a BD burner once that failed out of the box to write to DVD+RW and BD-RE correctly. It actually DESTROYED those discs! So, I got a 2nd model of the same unit, in case mine was defective. It did the same thing, so I knew that ASUS model was the culprit. It was bad by design.

Well, it's been a long time since I've "logged in" as I have remember options and use my web browser's auto fill functions, but if my memory is correct, you sign in with your user name on this forum.

The safest place is here: http://imgburn.com/index.php?act=download and the safest Mirror is Mirror 7. There's no guarantee your AV won't complain about it. What AV is detecting is not "malware" but PUP, potentially unwanted program. The installer used to have OpenCandy in it, which would phone home to a server and offer the user other software they may want to download. However, some people get click happy and don't read what they're agreeing to. AV software is generally lazy and it's easier to label something as malware than to label it what it is.

Well, that didn't take long. My latest replacement NS60 needs replacing again! This time, it's the old problem NS60's have of writing scratches to BD-R's that are fatal to the burning process!

Should have been in Chat, yes. My suggestion is one you won't like because you said you didn't want to install other software. But, I wouldn't use VLC player. I found it to be a pretty lousy DVD player when it came to disc compatibility. I use Media Player Classic Home Cinema myself.

Hm, looks like VSO emerged from the darkness to post a new beta of ConvertXToDVD! 7.0.0.73 Beta.

I know on the PS1 (No knowledge of Sega systems.) when I would copy some of my game discs, the resulting copies would boot but play with no music. So, I think it's just an idiosyncrasy of how these older game discs were made. With multiple sections for data and audio tracks.

Yes, it was a DVD+RW in question.

I'm having a little difficulty figuring this one out. I put in a disc which I thought had never been written to before, requiring a full format. However, when I put it in for writing, it did not say it needed to format the disc first. So, I entered Read mode to see what, if any, disc label was on the disc to see what might have been written on there before. But, there was no label, so I started the Read operation to see if there were any contents on it, and ImgBurn began reading the disc to ISO. So, I cancelled the read operation and decided to check the disc contents in File Explorer. But, File Explorer said the disc was empty! It just listed empty space X GB of X GB free. I forget the exact amount, 4 something. When I double clicked on the drive, Windows wanted to format is as a giant USB device or whatever the other option is. So, how can ImgBurn be reading a supposedly empty disc to an image file? Could I possibly have formatted the disc as a giant floppy in the past and forgotten about it?

Prodisc? Not sure if I've ever heard of them, but I thought Prodisc was a cheap manufacturer years ago. Probably not the real good stuff Verbatim then. Post a log of one of these Prodisc burns so I can see what the Disc ID is. If they are Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation Disc ID, then the problem you can probably nail down to the CCD image you have. It's either bad or ImgBurn has a problem with CloneCD's image format. What is the origin of this CCD file set? Did you create it yourself or did you download it from somewhere? If you downloaded it from somewhere, the likelihood is higher that the image itself is corrupt.

Pretty much from the beginning. I go all the way back to 2002, back when it was relatively common to spend an hour burning a DVD only to have it fail at 99% because of a buffer underrun error. Companies making products with the bottom line profit in mind versus a quality product don't help matters. Clueless tech support of hardware not listening to valid improvement suggestions also fails to be helpful.

I think at this point you have to start seriously examining the drive is faulty. It's not unheard of. My first BD burner, a LiteOn, was complete junk. Died before its 5th disc burned. And, if you replace the drive and you still have a problem, the issue is most likely the discs you're using. You should also consider replacing the drive with a different make/model/manufacturer, just to be sure.

I was just trying to cover as many bases as I could think of without knowing the specifics of how you've used this drive. While it is possible a cheap or defective model could work for 25 discs and then fail, it's highly unlikely. Try the slower speeds, but it wouldn't explain why some worked before and some didn't, I wouldn't think.