dbminter

If LUK finds nothing wrong with the CUE sheet, try focusing on this entry: I 00:04:20 Destination Media Type: CD-R (Disc ID: 97m26s66f, CMC Magnetics Corp.) CMC Magentics makes the worst CD recordable discs out there. About half the problems we see on this board are caused by CMC and other cheap media. You can try Verbatim DataLife Plus (NOT Life Series you find in stores. They are CMC. You'll only find DataLife Plus online in stores like Amazon.com.) or "genuine" Taiyo Yuden CD-R. (Also only found online.) A lot of the problems we see on this board are solved when people stop using CMC media.

I don't know if it really makes a difference. I choose BUP over IFO because IFO directs how a DVD is a played. BUP is just a backup for the IFO's and I doubt it's ever really called upon unless the IFO can't be read. So, it seems more likely that a BUP file layer break set wouldn't affect actual playback of the DVD. Again, I don't know that for sure; it's just my preference.

Ah, looks like I misspelled Ch3vr0n again! Used a lower case c like I think I did before.

I sometimes mention on the CXD forum that people try ImgBurn for the actual burning of their output to isolate if it's the CXD burn engine that may be their playback problem. Plus, with ImgBurn, we can get logs, which will show if they're using CMC!

ch3vr0n from the VSO forums is also here, too. I always use ImgBurn to burn the VIDEO_TS output created by CXD. I like to be able to set my own layer break, if using a DVD+R DL where it's needed. Plus, I like to do things like add the containers in a DVD I create to the root directory of the disc I burn so they're "backed up" on the DVD I've created. Wherever possible, when prompted and allowed, I like to set my layer break on a .BUP file. It's essentially the same as setting the layer break on an .IFO file.

There is sort of such an option. Tools --> Settings --> Write --> Page 1 --> Check Cycle tray before Verify. Don't know if this will apply if you don't have Verify checked automatically, though. And, for Queues, you should probably set this option under Page 2 --> Queue Options --> Check Eject tray before next write. You should always have Verify checked after each write, anyway. See if these suggestions help.

DVD+R DL allows you to set your own layer break position in the ImgBurn options, but DVD-R DL, I believe, has a static layer break and cannot be changed. So, you'll get a pause in the video that may not be seamless and cannot be changed to somewhere else should you desire it. I don't know if they even still make DVD-R DL as its limitations and less compatiblity with DVD players made it less desirable for use. I tried a few to test with and quickly abandoned them in favor of DVD+R DL. Hey, are you the same reddwarf4ever I've also seen and helped on the ConvertXToDVD forums?

CMC has already changed the manufacturing process of some quality Verbatim discs to save money. They altered the DataLife Plus DVD-R and DVD+R so that they're useless in the LG WH16NS60 now. Had to switch to Taiyo Yuden TYG MID discs.

Yeah, like I said, as far as Verbatim and BD media go, they apparently use the same MID across different kinds of BD-R and BD-RE media. Those I linked to are HTL, so you're probably right. MABL is a way to indicate they're metallic oxide layers and not organic dye ones. Although why they didn't just say HTL on them is beyond me. Looked it up. MABL is short for Metal Ablative Recording Layer. And it is the inorganic, metallic oxide layer of HTL BD-R.

Are those the MID for the BD-R SL's? If so, they're the same ones I have from Verbatim that I've rarely had an issue with that wasn't the result of a failing drive's fault. However, that MID, I believe, is also used on the BD-RE DL's I have, too, also from Verbatim. So, it's slightly confusing. I've never heard of MABL branding, to my knowledge. Actually, just checked the ones I used and the package does say M-A-B-L on it. I had never noticed that before. Wonder what it means. Anyway, just ordered a stack of these today: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GSQ4DBM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Those are the ones I always use and they have that MID you mentioned on them. They're good ones I've been using for years.

Wow, LG is really grasping at straws to keep from fixing their own screw up! After writing them back yesterday after hearing NOTHING back, as I knew they would, they replied to me today. They want a photograph of the label on the drive! Well, they're not getting away with this and I'll send them whatever they want to get them to do their goddamn jobs!

I would think if you're willing to install Virtual CloneDrive, ElbyCDIO would be installed along with it. Or, alternatively, you can apparently just install the ElbyCDIO package directly from here: https://forum.redfox.bz/threads/elbycdio-6-1-3-0-driver-update.72695/

Depends. Post the log of a failed Sony CD burn.

My last contact from LG seemed to indicate they DO still make the WH16NS60. They kind of tried putting the blame on me, asking me if I actually read the label on the drive to make sure it was an NS40 and not just reading the box it came in. They said they'd let a higher up know so they could follow up on what to do. Which I know what they'll do: NOTHING! I'm not sure, but I think notifications are when you get replies to posts and an e-mail notifies you of the new content. However, why you'd be asked this each time you sign in indicates it's something else. Like push notifications, which I don't know what the contents of those would be. I don't get prompted to sign in each time I check for new updates. I guess I'm automatically logged in each time I visit the site, which I think I was able to set an option for that somewhere. Last I checked, PIODATA, on your recommendation, did not make BD burners. Couldn't find one anywhere on their site. The biggest problem is remembering to wear a mask. Not that I think a mask will protect me or others, it's just that if I don't wear a mask, I'm afraid some paranoid idiot with a gun will shoot me for getting too close like actually happened in Texas, I think it was. And the restaurants are still closed. I owe my mother 2 meals, one for her birthday and one for Mother's Day, so I'm behind there. Plus, I want to get somewhere where I can dine in on a pizza again. I'm tired of just Little Caesar's for pizza. And these one way aisles are ridiculous! I follow the rules, but I'm the ONLY one who does, so what difference does it make? And I want to be able to go into the library again to read the newspaper. Funny enough, I cut my big left toe on the first of May trimming my big toenail and it still hasn't fully healed yet. But, I heal REALLY slow from injuries.

This is your most likely culprit: I 13:21:56 Destination Media Type: CD-R (Disc ID: 97m26s66f, CMC Magnetics Corp.) CMC Magnetics makes the WORST optical discs out there. Most of the problems we see on this board are caused by CMC or other cheap discs. CMC would also explain why it worked at one point and didn't work later. CMC is like that. You can get some good discs but most are junk. Try Verbatim DataLife Plus CD's. NOT Verbatim Life Series you find in stores, which are CMC. You will only find the good stuff in online stores like Amazon.com. If you can't find DataLife Plus, try "genuine" Taiyo Yuden CD's.

By comparison, in terms of time taken, a BD-R burns a full disc and Verifies at nearly 25 minutes at maximum speed (12x) on the LG WH16NS60. 4 BD-R is 100 GB, so that's 25 minutes times 4 to complete a 100 GB backup. That time, of course, does not take into account creating the actual file sets or ISO's if you're writing to image file first. Plus additional time loading each new disc. So, that's 100 minutes of burn and Verify time alone. That's 1 hour and 40 minutes. Considerably shorter than 2 and a half hours. So, using BD-R SL is also less time consuming. Of course, that time payoff does equal you're having to store fewer discs if you're using TL media, so it may be worth the trade off.

I am thinking it did before Windows 10 2004. In my 1909 update steps, I said to assign .CUE to VCD. This implies I did it before on 1909 and it worked. I can't think I'd have said to do this if it didn't work.

Think I discovered a bug in the latest Virtual CloneDrive. CloneDrive used to mount .CUE files with associated .BIN files. I tried it just now and it says it can't, when it used to be able to. None of my .CUE files mount in CloneDrive anymore. The associated .BIN files still mount, but the .CUE files don't anymore. The error message is Can't mount "Image file name!" Maybe this is something associated with Windows 10 2004?

You could try changing the translation layer to ElbyCDIO and see if that helps. Tools --> Settings --> I/O --> Uncheck SPTI - Microsoft and check ElbyCDIO - Elaborate Bytes. Restart ImgBurn. If that doesn't help, try any of the other I/O options to see if one works. If you want to use SPTI for absolute certain, wait and see if someone else replies because I don't know about your issue.

About the spindles, it's hard to say. For instance, discs were never intended to be stored long term that way because they don't sell spindles except when you buy blanks. However, they're good enough to ship the blank discs in without too much damage to them. If I had to hazard a guess, I'd say there's no real downside to using them except when you need one from the bottom of the stack, you have to take out all the rest of them.

You can buy jewel cases separately. I store my discs in CD/DVD carrying "books." They store like 320 (I have some more, some less.) discs/CD booklets. I don't see where you're getting Verify against image from in Write files/folders to disc. I just went into that function and found the Verify checkbox but not one you describe. And, there shouldn't be such an option in that function as there's no image file being written to in Write files/folders to disc function. Oh, I see where you're at now. You're in the Verify function itself. I rarely use that manually as I have the automatic Verify turned on after each write. There is a Verify against image file. If you didn't create an image file, that option doesn't apply. You'll be asked to select an image file, which you won't have. You'll just be doing a Verify, which as I said, just makes sure the disc can be read. It performs a create image from disc function without actually creating the image file itself. I prefer the Build mode (Create image file from files/folders), where you create an image file first. That way, you can compare contents written to the disc against the contents in the image file. Write files/folders to disc will write the files/folders to disc without writing to an image file first. The Build mode will write the files/folders you tell it to to an image file first. It's not that TL has a likelihood of failing. It just has a higher likelihood of failing versus a SL one. For instance, you may not experience a problem writing a TL disc. But, for a variety of reasons, you might. And, for a variety of reasons, you might experience a problem writing to BD SL discs, too. Unfortunately, until you actually write a disc and experience an error, I can't tell you what you might be wrong until I see the error. However, you will have less likelihood of failure with SL discs; doesn't mean you won't though. Even though it increases the number of discs used, I use SL media. In fact, I've never written a BD-R DL disc before. Just BD-RE DL. And I've never written a TL or QL disc of any kind, even though I have burners that support them.

Unless you're writing on the fly, you're always writing to an image file first, even if you're just writing files. You're writing files to the ISO first, unless you're using the Write files/folders to disc option from the Picker. That is writing on the fly, which doesn't write to an image file first. And if you're using that option, Verify from image won't apply. What that option does is it verifies the contents written to the disc against the contents in the image file. While this takes longer, it's more likely to find write errors than not using it. Not using it just performs a read test, meaning to see if the data can be read from the disc. Doesn't mean the data was written correctly to the disc to begin with. I always enable Verify from image. I also rarely use the writing on the fly option. In fact, I've only used it a few times for testing purposes for someone else's issue. BD SL I use primarily even when it will fit on a DVD/CD. Unless it's an Audio CD or a DVD Video, which require CD/DVD media in order to properly playback, I make all my archives to BD SL HTL. HTL BD will last longer than the CD/DVD because those use organic dyes which deteriorate faster. BD uses metal oxides which last longer. And BD SL are only $1 for the good stuff. Even though I may waste some (Or a lot.) of available space, I prefer the longevity BD SL provides for my archives. I used to use BD-RE DL for making system images, but due to the high failure rate of those, I moved to flash drives. Plus, flash drives are faster. And since flash drives, I've moved to portable SSD's, which have higher capacities (Well, they do make high capacity flash drives, but they're all junk that I've tested out.) and are faster than flash drives. Never burned TL or QL, but as you go beyond one layer of DVD or BD media, you increase the likelihood of errors exponentially, particularly at the layer changes. So, you're less likely to get errors writing to BD SL than you would a TL because of the increase from 1 layer to 3.

You can always disable the verify process but you run the risk of getting bad discs, regardless of the speed you set. A burn can complete but it doesn't mean it completed correctly. I always enable verify because you never know when some gremlin might sneak in.

Ah, I was wondering where all this would go wrong; now I know! I sent LG a WH16NS60 for repairs/replacement... and they sent me a WH16NS40 back! I got the NS60 BECAUSE the NS40 is junk at writing DL BD-R and BD-RE! I guess LG no longer manufactures the NS60, as evidenced by its removal from their list of burner products they sell.

First, before replacing the drive, try using a different SATA cable. If that fails, try a different SATA port, to isolate a cable or port issue. At that point, the problem is most likely either the BD burner or the discs being used. Both are possible. One is easier to fix, if it solves the problem, than the other. If replacing the SATA cable/switching SATA ports doesn't solve the problem, try replacing the drive. If that still doesn't fix the problem, try a different BD burner besides the ASUS. If a different burner still doesn't solve the issue, it's most likely the discs. CMC probably changed the manufacturing process on them like they did with Verbatim DataLife Plus DVD+/-R making them worse. IF they did that, then, the only solution is to try other BD-R DL, but Verbatim generally was the only manufacturer who made reliable DL media. However, ever since CMC bought them, the horse is out of the barn in terms of quality anymore.