dbminter

Redfox probably just hosts Virtual CloneDrive because of how it often goes hand in glove with its products. How sometimes you need virtual drives to mount DVD images for testing/viewing. Also, I believe Redfox hosts CloneCD, CloneDVD, and CloneBD, but those are Elby products.

The Verify errors I would lay at the feet of using CMC DVD media. Verify errors generally go away when you don't use the cheap media. As for how to use the files/folders mode, I think I only ever used it once or twice to troubleshoot a different area on the forum. I don't use that mode myself, preferring the Build mode, so I know next to nothing about it. Your Panasonic DVD recorder might not have any problems writing to CMC DVD's but your DVD burner in your PC might.

Oh, wait. I overlooked something. I did find a failed burn, although the general cause does not really indicate a failed burn. Here's that log: //****************************************\\ ; ImgBurn Version 2.5.8.0 - Log ; Friday, 24 April 2020, 19:50:08 ; \\****************************************// ; ; I 19:45:28 ImgBurn Version 2.5.8.0 started! I 19:45:28 Microsoft Windows 8 Core x64 Edition (6.2, Build 9200) I 19:45:28 Total Physical Memory: 12,472,836 KiB - Available: 6,647,152 KiB W 19:45:28 Drive F:\ (FAT32) does not support single files > 4 GiB in size. I 19:45:28 Initialising SPTI... I 19:45:28 Searching for SCSI / ATAPI devices... I 19:45:29 -> Drive 1 - Info: hp PLDS DVDRW DU8AESH 6HSM (E:) (SATA) I 19:45:29 Found 1 DVD±RW! I 19:48:51 Operation Started! I 19:48:51 Building Image Tree... I 19:49:22 Checking Directory Depth... I 19:49:22 Calculating Totals... I 19:49:22 Preparing Image... I 19:49:24 Checking Path Length... I 19:49:24 Contents: 7 Files, 2 Folders I 19:49:24 Content Type: DVD Video I 19:49:24 Data Type: MODE1/2048 I 19:49:24 File System(s): ISO9660, UDF (1.02) I 19:49:24 Volume Label: DVD_VIDEO_RECORDER I 19:49:24 IFO/BUP 32K Padding: Enabled I 19:49:24 Region Code: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 I 19:49:24 TV System: NTSC I 19:49:24 Size: 1,709,625,344 bytes I 19:49:24 Sectors: 834,778 I 19:49:24 Image Size: 1,710,227,456 bytes I 19:49:24 Image Sectors: 835,072 I 19:49:34 Operation Successfully Completed! - Duration: 00:00:42 I 19:49:34 Operation Started! I 19:49:34 Image Contents: 7 Files, 2 Folders I 19:49:34 Image Sectors: 835,072 (MODE1/2048) I 19:49:34 Image Size: 1,710,227,456 bytes I 19:49:34 Image Single Layer Profile: DVD-R/RW (Media Capacity: 2,297,888) I 19:49:34 Image Volume Identifier: DVD_VIDEO_RECORDER I 19:49:34 Image Volume Set Identifier: 50989E19000CBDEF I 19:49:34 Image Application Identifier: IMGBURN V2.5.8.0 - THE ULTIMATE IMAGE BURNER! I 19:49:34 Image Implementation Identifier: ImgBurn I 19:49:34 Image File System(s): ISO9660, UDF (1.02) I 19:49:34 Destination File: C:\Users\Garbe\Documents\DVD_VIDEO_RECORDER.ISO I 19:49:34 Destination Free Space: 889,713,250,304 Bytes (868,860,596.00 KiB) (848,496.68 MiB) (828.61 GiB) I 19:49:34 Destination File System: NTFS I 19:49:34 File Splitting: Auto I 19:49:34 Writing Image... W 19:49:51 Failed to read from file: 'E:\VIDEO_TS\VTS_01_1.VOB' W 19:49:51 Reason: The device is not ready. E 19:50:03 Failed to read from file: 'E:\VIDEO_TS\VTS_01_1.VOB' E 19:50:03 Reason: The device is not ready. E 19:50:04 Operation Failed! - Duration: 00:00:29 E 19:50:04 Average Write Rate: 17 KiB/s (0.0x) - Maximum Write Rate: 17 KiB/s (0.0x) I 19:50:08 Close Request Acknowledged I 19:50:08 Closing Down... I 19:50:08 Shutting down SPTI... I 19:50:08 ImgBurn closed! It appears you were trying to create an image from one of these Panasonic discs and it failed to read a VOB file from the DVD. I can't say why, for sure, this would have happened. It could have been that the disc wasn't inserted at the time the image file creation was started. In the Write files/folders to disc mode, you must leave in the source DVD in the drive in this case after you've added the files to the job. So, you can't remove the disc until the image file creation is done. That might explain it. Another more insidious explanation is the disc you're trying to read from is damaged/unreadable. This could be simply because of the age of the disc, though I doubt it in this case, or your DVD PC drive is having trouble reading it. Which if you used CMC DVD media for creating this disc in the Panasonic recorder, while it may have finished creating, it may not be properly readable. My first exposure to CMC media was when Optodisc changed from making their own discs to CMC, causing my Panasonic recordings to fail half the time and those that did succeed had playback problems. In the future, though it's not always the case, look for the line Operation Failed! in the log for failures.

Well, here's the thing. There doesn't appear to be a single failed burn in that entire log. So, I can't say why your previous burn failed because there's no indication of any failed burns. A burn might have completed, but still not playback properly. Now, what I did notice was all the burns in this log were to cheaper media. One CMC, the worst manufacturer out there, and the rest were Ritek, which is also relatively cheaper media. Cheaper media tends to be the biggest problem causers on this board. I noticed the only DVD burn in that entire log was to a CMC media. That could be why your DVD isn't playing back properly. CMC are notorious for many things, one of which is playback problems in DVD players. So, the first thing I'd try is avoiding CMC DVD media for your DVD project. As to what you should get, look online at like Amazon.com for Verbatim DataLife Plus or AZO DVD. NOT the Verbatim Life Series, which you'll find in brick and mortar stores. Those will be CMC. As for labels you can write to, no pencil, as far as I know, will. They might write to inkjet printable surface discs, but I doubt it. A pen might, too, but you're better off finding CD markers, specifically designed to write to CD label surfaces. The upshot is, though they're not intended for that purpose, you can also write to inkjet printable surfaces with markers. CD markers will write to the surface of what are called "branded" discs. Branded discs are just discs that have a kind of shiny surface on them where the company has "branded" them with their logo. You can write to these shiny surfaces with CD markers. There also used to be a kind called silver shiny labels but I don't know if they make those anymore. You can use CD markers on their surfaces, too. I use either Verbatim DataLife Plus (NOT Life Series.) or AZO CD and DVD with inkjet printable labels. However, because of a running change when CMC (Yes, THAT CMC.) bought Verbatim, DataLife Plus DVD-R no longer write properly in my LG WH16NS60. So, I've switched to what are called Taiyo Yuden inkjet printable DVD-R. All of those I got from Amazon.com. But, depending on where you live, you won't necessarily get the same media in a different country. Sad, but true. And, unfortunately, it's really just a combination of trying out various media and finding out what works with your burner drive AND if your DVD player likes that kind of media/how your DVD burner wrote to it. So, yes, the sad news is it really is something a matter of trial and error to see what works for you. While we can offer basic advice, we can't guarantee any particular combination will work for you.

By ImgBurn, I mean the application itself. That window that opens when you click on the ImgBurn shortcut. At the top of that window, on the far right, it says Help. That's what you select. It's not an option on the ImgBurn.com web page.

CMC Magnetics is the bad stuff. Over half the issues we see on this board are caused by using CMC media. When people switch away from CMC, their problems generally disappear. Not always, but usually. MCC is Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation which makes the good stuff for Memorex and Verbatim. CMC Magnetics/MCC means that CMC/MCC actually made the discs, not the label slapped on the package. There are very few actual manufacturers of optical media, but many companies sell their products under their brand name. Verbatim/MCC, Ritek, CMC, Taiyo Yuden are basically the big names in the business. But only the stuff made MCC (only the good Verbatim) and Taiyo Yuden are quality media. When you say you can burn all other images, what images are you burning and to what media? Are you using the same CD-RW to burn all CD images to? There are differences between CD and DVD manufacturing processes and also in how they're burned. Now, if you've successfully burned other CD images to this same CD-RW without a problem, then you could be more confident in saying it's a problem with the CCD image itself. I'm not too familiar with CCD, which I believe means CloneCD made the image. I haven't used CloneCD in like 15 or 20 years so I know little about it.

CD-R from Memorex is also known to use CMC Magnetics discs but is also known to use the good stuff from MCC. You'd have to check one of these Memorex discs in ImgBurn to see if you've got "good" Memorex from MCC or the bad stuff from CMC. (Notice how CMC just rearranges the letters of a known good manufacturer to try and trick people?)

Yes, I would also blame the cheap media. See this line: I 23:07:43 Destination Media Type: DVD-R (Disc ID: CMC MAG. AM3) CMC Magnetics makes the worst possible media out there. A good portion of the CMC problems we see on this board are solved by switching to something else. If you want to use Verbatim, you want the DataLife Plus/AZO series you only find in online stores. Not the Life Series you find in brick and mortar stores as those are CMC. Now, here's the bad news. Guess who bought Verbatim. Yep, CMC!

Try not using cheap media. Here's your most likely culprit: I 13:49:59 Destination Media Type: CD-RW (Disc ID: 97m26s65f, CMC Magnetics Corp.) CMC Magnetics makes the worst discs out there. Try something from Verbatim that is DataLife Plus, not the Life Series you find in stores. You can only find the DataLife Plus series online. You may also want to check about your CD-RW. Have you used it before? If so, how many times? It may have just reached the end of its life span.

You will find Help on the far right at the top of the ImgBurn window. Then, somewhere in there, you'll find a log files option, I forget what it's exactly called but it's obvious what it is. The folder with the .LOG log file opens. Then you open the .LOG file in whatever editor you have for text files, usually associated with Wordpad. Then, find the entry for a failed burn, which you'll find in the Verify section that says it failed. You can then copy and paste that part of the log, both Write and Verify sections, into a post on the board. We'll need both parts and the entirety of the log. Unfortunately, you can't just buy Verbatim and expect to get the good stuff. You have to specifically find DataLife Plus or AZO in the item description. I usually find them on Amazon.com, but tech ships SUPER slow now from them. In other words, avoid the Life Series stuff from Verbatim. I generally use Taiyo Yuden DVD-R now because CMC, which unfortunately bought Verbatim, changed the manufacturing process of the DataLife Plus series to maximize profit, which means minimizing quality. On the LG WH16NS60 Blu-Ray burner I use, that media is no longer any good, when it used to be the best. I placed an order for recordable Blu-Ray from Verbatim from Amazon.com back on April 13th and it still hasn't shipped yet! Its estimated delivery date is May 10th.

Without the log I can only guess, but I have a probable guess as to why you got a Verify error and why it wouldn't play on some DVD players. You were probably using a CMC Magnetics recordable DVD, which is the cheapest media out there. If you bought these DVD's in a store, like particularly the Life Series from Verbatim you find in stores, then you got CMC media. Or they may be Ritek or some other cheaper media, too. The log would tell us what media type you were using. The way around that is to use Taiyo Yuden or Verbatim DataLife Plus/AZO discs you only find in online stores. However, the current process for some DataLife Plus DVD is not compatible with the LG WH16NS60 Blu-Ray burner. The log would also tell us what burner you used.

Ah, as I thought, you're using a Panasonic DVD video recorder. Ever since the first model released in 2002, it has been impossible for me to image discs made by it with Read mode. Panasonic DVD recorders record in multitrack format. I have such discs going back to 2002 and all require me to use Build mode as I described to make copies of them since they can't be read to image files by ImgBurn. You might be able to use something like DVDShrink, a free program, to make an ISO and use ImgBurn to burn the ISO. I forget, but I think it's possible. You indicate you got past discs made by a Panasonic DVD video recorder to image in the past, but I don't see how it's possible. I've had 5 different models released from 2002 to 2009 and all discs made by all models behaved like you describe where you can't read them to image files in ImgBurn because of the multitrack limitation. I'm still using an older model myself, actually. My first one from 2002, which still works.

I pointed out the log entry hoping it might prompt LUK to remember/say where it might be written on the disc info itself. Whether, as I said, it was just a log entry or if it was actually written to disc.

Yes, I'm pretty sure ImgBurn records which version you're using somewhere in some field when you burn an image to disc. In fact, from my most recent log: I 10:13:18 Image File Application Identifier: IMGBURN V2.x.x.x - THE ULTIMATE IMAGE BURNER! I'm guessing somewhere Image File Application Identifier is written somewhere to the disc instead of just in the image file itself?

BIN shouldn't be used for DVD. Is the DVD less than 1 GB in size? Even then it should be an ISO. I never found out why, but multitrack discs are not supported by ImgBurn for Read mode. Is it a movie DVD? Was it created by a DVD video recorder? Or it could just be how the DVD was authored by the manufacturer. While you can't use Read mode to read a multitrack DVD to an image file, you can still make an image file copy for burning. You'll need Build mode for that. In Build mode, drag and drop all files and folders from the multitrack DVD into a Build job and create an image file that way. While it won't be a "1:1" copy, you'll still have the contents. And if it's a VIDEO_TS folder you're adding from a DVD Video disc, ImgBurn will make the necessary file system changes for DVD Video. Basically, follow this guide Even if it's not a DVD Video disc you're creating, the basic Build mode instructions are relatively the same.

I'm not familiar with mini DVD-R or burning GameCube games. The actual media you use for burning game discs doesn't matter, but the drive you use CAN. I'm not entirely sure if it applies to GameCube games, but I know you need special drives and loaders for XBox games. So you may need a particular type of burner like a LiteOn for GameCube games, though I believe it's XBox games that are so picky.

Do you still have the CD-ROM you already burned? You shouldn't need to burn a 2nd copy because the first one should work. Just follow the install steps I listed for getting the game to install with the disc you already made, if you still have it. If you don't have the CD-ROM you already burned, burn a new copy by following the How to write an image file to disc link here Where it says "If you created the image with ImgBurn, you should be looking for a *.CUE / *.MDS file initially. If you can't locate one of those with the name you're expecting, go for whatever is left! (probably a *.ISO file)" you will want to open the file that has .CUE at the end of its name instead of the .BIN file.

Ah, what you have in that ZIP file (I just snagged it.) is a BIN/CUE file set. That's a CD format image file set, so you will get a CD-ROM when you burn it. In the guide I linked earlier, load the .CUE file instead of a .ISO file. You'll want to load the .CUE file instead of the .BIN file for proper burning. The .BIN file is the actual data and the .CUE file tells how to properly burn the .BIN file to the destination. I did not burn the BIN/CUE file set, but I mounted the BIN as a virtual drive to test with. There is something called Install DirectMedia6, which I've never heard of before. I guess you already chose to try installing DirectX7. Try installing DirectMedia 6. Now, I did notice the game is 18 years old, so I am worried it simply doesn't run on modern Windows. But, it turns out, I got it working. All I did was 1.) choose Install Dino2 from the disc menu. I didn't install DirectMedia6 or DirectX7. After the installer finishes, the installer closes. I ran the installer again and this time Play Dino2 was available, which it wasn't before. And the game does run on Windows 10 1909. So, if you haven't tried it yet, 1.) run the installer from the disc 2.) choose Install Dino2 3.) the installation program closes. Rerun the installer from the disc. 4.) Play Dino2 should be selectable now for you to run the game. If it doesn't, I can't explain it. Of course, I didn't actually burn the BIN/CUE file set. I ran it as a virtual drive from the hard disk.

You'd be surprised at the sheer number of programs that become unusable on Windows simply because of their age. They work on the previous version of Windows then you update to the latest Windows, try to run the old application, and it simply never starts. Plus, when you download something like an old game installer, you never know for sure IF it ever even worked before. Many people just make copies of install discs and post them without testing them. And if they had copy protection mechanisms on them, it would make them worse. If the ZIP file just contains an ISO file, all you need to do is use Write image file to disc and load the ISO for writing. That's the extent of it. What you get afterwards is up for grabs.

How old is this game? It could simply be old enough that it refuses to run on modern versions of Windows.

Try using something other than cheaper DVD media. Try the DataLife Plus/AZO discs made by Verbatim. NOT the Life Series you find in stores. I 17:22:36 Destination Media Type: DVD-R (Disc ID: RITEKG04 01) The above generally indicates a lesser quality brand of recordable DVD. Some might work fine, some might not. That's the nature of cheaper quality media. It's the first thing I'd try. Try using Verbatim DataLife Plus/AZO discs you can only find online. Granted, I've never seen a Possible Bogus Driver error detected before, so it could be something else.

I'm not sure if that's a joke or you're serious. Actually, I thought of something where that may not be an error. It could be a double sided recordable disc. You don't see many of those anymore, but they can probably still be found.

I would avoid the ASUS model. I had 2 of those, I think, and they both did the same thing: destroyed rewritable media! Now, a firmware update in the years since might have resolved that, but I wouldn't know.

Well, I did say it was with a variation.