dbminter

Well, this Pioneer is trash! It's already stopped writing to DVD+RW! I used a brand new unwritten to disc. I wrote it in the LG to make sure it would write in the Pioneer and it still failed. And it failed on 2 other DVD+RW so it's not the discs being the problem. Time to see if Pioneer has a replacement program like LG does. And, if it doesn't, this just puts the final nail in the coffin for me and Pioneer. I'd rather have a slower writing drive that doesn't have all the problems of a Pioneer than have a faster writing drive from Pioneer with all the problems.

Another thing that probably won't work is try doing a search for an ImgBurn folder on your HDD. It will probably find where ImgBurn is installed, but you're looking for a specific, different folder that would have been made with the shortcuts for ImgBurn. See if you find one such folder if there's a shortcut called Uninstall.

You apparently have some kind of problem. There should be an entry for ImgBurn in Add/Remove Programs. If it's not, check your Start menu for an ImgBurn folder and see if there's an Uninstall shortcut there. Barring that, try running the ImgBurn installer again, install it to the location of the old ImgBurn, and then see if an Add/Remove was added for ImgBurn. Then, use that to uninstall ImgBurn. If not, about all I can recommend is trying Revo Uninstaller Free and see if it can remove ImgBurn.

So, here's what I achieved with a nearly full BD-R image to these 6x BD-R: I 18:58:18 Source File Size: 24,026,349,568 bytes I 18:58:18 Destination Device: [0:0:0] PIONEER BD-RW BDR-211M 1.52 (R:) (USB 3.0) I 18:58:18 Destination Media Type: BD-R (HTL) (Disc ID: VERBAT-IMe-000) I 18:58:18 Destination Media Supported Write Speeds: 2x, 4x, 6x, 8x, 10x, 12x, 16x I 18:58:18 Destination Media Sectors: 12,219,392 I 18:58:18 Write Speed Successfully Set! - Effective: 71,920 KB/s (16x) I 19:07:29 Operation Successfully Completed! - Duration: 00:09:11 I 19:07:29 Average Write Rate: 45,737 KiB/s (10.4x) - Maximum Write Rate: 63,936 KiB/s (14.6x) So, not quite 16x, but pretty close. And maybe a full 25 GB might get me 16x, but I doubt it. Still, I won't complain with these results.

I only really follow the updates on the ConvertXToDVD front. Although I think there was a recent beta for VSODownloader. However, there hasn't been a new ConvertXToDVD beta since I last reported one. It was supposed to be going gold if no new bugs were reported, but, of course, one was. Something to do with incorrect colors for subtitles.

I thought of this earlier and was going to post the same thing, but then, I thought, isn't ImgBurn smart enough to automatically enable file splitting when writing an image greater than 4 GB on a FAT32 partition? There is another option to formatting the target partition as NTFS. Enable file splitting in the options and set some kind of arbitrary file size for splitting. I enabled it for my images even though I write to NTFS target partitions. I do this in case I need to split a large image file for off storage to DVD's. In Build mode, what is the total file size ImgBurn said it added? Is it 4GB or greater than 4 GB and ImgBurn is just writing 4 GB image files?

Well, actually, I make a differentiation between BD Video and just data, but actually, it's all data. BD Video just has some specific file structure designations. CD Audio is the only optical format that is not purely data. It's a specific optical format. For instance, if you put data on a mixed mode CD, you'd have 1 track with audio tracks and 1 with data files on it. Windows can natively read the data track, but it requires specific software like Windows Media Player to read the audio track tracks. And there is a differentiation with encrypted BD Video. The drive/operating system "scramble" the contents so you need some kind of translating layer, which slows down the reading process. I tend to use BD-R primarily as a "data" media to do file and system backups on. While usually these backups will fit on a DVD/DVD+R DL, I still use BD-R because they write faster and as long as I use High To Low BD, will last much longer as they don't have organic dyes which can fade. They use fused metal oxide layers.

If I upped it to 40 GB, I couldn't burn it to these BD-R SL. And if used BD-R DL, I doubt they would get to 16x max write rates. And for the sake of disclosure, I've hardly ever burned a BD Video disc. 99% of all of my BD burns were data that were unrelated to BD Video.

Had a larger image set this time, closer to 22 GB, and got closer to 16x on 6x BD-R in the Pioneer 211. I 18:18:09 Source File Sectors: 10,689,984 (MODE1/2048) I 18:18:09 Source File Size: 21,893,087,232 bytes I 18:18:09 Destination Device: [0:0:0] PIONEER BD-RW BDR-211M 1.52 (R:) (USB 3.0) I 18:18:09 Destination Media Type: BD-R (HTL) (Disc ID: VERBAT-IMe-000) I 18:18:09 Destination Media Supported Write Speeds: 2x, 4x, 6x, 8x, 10x, 12x, 16x I 18:18:09 Destination Media Sectors: 12,219,392 I 18:18:09 Write Speed Successfully Set! - Effective: 71,920 KB/s (16x) I 18:27:49 Operation Successfully Completed! - Duration: 00:09:39 I 18:27:49 Average Write Rate: 40,187 KiB/s (9.2x) - Maximum Write Rate: 64,615 KiB/s (14.7x)

Yes, use Rufus. That's what I use.

Oh, you probably won't find any product descriptions for half height. That's an old term that dates to when hard drives became smaller than the bays they used to put inside of really older computers. Try finding any kind of enclosure that mentions 5.25 inch drives. You will probably only find 2. VanTech and Other World Computing. Each have their flaws. For instance, the VanTechs have notoriously poor Chinese manufacturing. I've had 2 and the first one was junk. OWC have a problem sometimes with being turned off. Windows won't recognize the drive unless you unplug and plug in the USB cable back. And sometimes not even then! I have one where it won't recognize powered off and back on drives until you restart the PC, NOT logging off and back on, with the drive turned on! Oh, and if you're going to use a BD burner, you'll need USB 3.0 enclosures, which is why your choices are limited. There are plenty of USB 2.x enclosures, but they won't really cut it for BD drives. So, that means you'll need USB 3.x somewhere in your PC. Here's the one I'm currently using: https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-NST-536S3-BK-NexStar-External-Enclosure/dp/B01MRUN0HQ/ref=asc_df_B01MRUN0HQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312727440900&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15673763883633872416&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9014737&hvtargid=pla-451497912221&psc=1 As for BD burners, there are 2 5.25 inch internal options, LG's WH16NS60 and Pioneer's 209 and 211 models. They each have their problems. LG's have a nasty habit of dying early, but they do have good replacement customer service. 209's are harder to find now but are cheaper than 211's, which you only need if you plan on playing UltraHD Blu-Ray movies. However, Pioneer is constantly borking the firmware of their drives. There are 2 persistent errors that I know of in their firmware that have been there in the last 2 revisions DESPITE my repeated attempts telling them about them.

Is it just me or are LG HL-DT-ST BD-RE BU40N drives just super slow? They're slow readers, reading about twice as slow as the Pioneers I've tried. And I'm talking just about in data folder copy operations. NOT in terms of ripping discs. RipLock I could understand, but these are simple folder copy and pastes of data files that are not on encrypted discs or even in folder formats like VIDEO_TS. They're slow writers. For instance on 8x DVD+RW, they spend about half the time writing at 4x. 16x BD-R only get 12x maximum, unlike in Pioneers.

That's not the log of a failed burn. In fact, that's not the log of a burn, but of an image creation. Notice that log doesn't say Device Not Ready anywhere in it or anything about a write operation to disc starting. The link to what you use says you're using the AZO media and I've used those discs before myself. So, what you've got is most likely a drive that doesn't like that media combination. I don't buy DVD burners anymore, only BD ones. So, I can't say what to get as I don't use slim model externals like yours is. Slim models are notorious for being junk. I got my first slim internal model with my new PC last year and it quickly showed why they're trash. Since you're using quality discs, the most likely culprit is you're using a slim model drive. If you're going to get one, get a half height model drive. I don't get pre-assembled USB drives anyway. I buy half height internal BD burners and put them in external USB enclosures for holding half height optical drives. Plus, according to your log, is that even a DVD capable burner? ImgBurn says it's CD-RW with DVD-ROM reading capability. The Amazon product description says it burns DVD but it also says it burns CD+R/RW, which don't exist. So, who's to say if that drive even supports writing to DVD's. According to this post: https://www.dell.com/community/Storage-Drives-Media/Does-this-burn-DVDs-TSSTcorp-CDRWDVD-TSL462D/td-p/3898840 that drive you're using doesn't write to DVD discs. Unfortunately, there's conflicting information out there as there some posts that appear to be different kinds of drives called the same thing. Some don't write to DVD and some apparently do. Or they're unreliable reports of the same thing. Plus, there are different "manufacturers" of that drive: Samsung, Dell, HP. TSST means that Toshiba actually made it and they just farmed it out to different OEM manufacturers. One of them, this no name company I've never heard of before, Rioddas, just bought them from Toshiba and put them in a USB external enclosure.

Post the log of a burn with this Device Not Ready error. In ImgBurn, open Help and choose ImgBurn Logs. Open the file in the folder that opens up, find a failed burn, and copy and paste the entire portion of the log relevant to that burn only. Just off the top of my head, you're probably using the cheap Verbatims bought in a brick and mortar store, the Life Series. They will be cheap CMC Magnetics media and not the quality DataLife Plus/AZO Verbatim itself makes. Those you can only find online. The log will tell us what media you used. And that would probably cause a bad media and drive combo. Using the quality Verbatim media generally makes problems go away, but not always.

I'm not entirely sure how this works, actually. I would think a media rated at Zx maximum would only get Zx at the most. Yet, newer drives are, more and more, getting faster speeds on older media. And it only seems to be for WORM (Write Once, Read Many) media. Rewritable media are always stuck at their maximum rating for maximum burning speed. With some 0.1x variations. For instance, some drives get 8.1x maximum write rates on Ricoh/Ritek 8x DVD+RW. Never quite figured that one out either.

Looks like on this Pioneer 211, 6x media may very well get 16x. I had a little larger data set this time and got this: I 19:46:59 Destination Device: [0:0:0] PIONEER BD-RW BDR-211M 1.52 (R:) (USB 3.0) I 19:46:59 Destination Media Type: BD-R (HTL) (Disc ID: VERBAT-IMe-000) I 19:46:59 Destination Media Supported Write Speeds: 2x, 4x, 6x, 8x, 10x, 12x, 16x I 19:46:59 Destination Media Sectors: 12,219,392 I 19:46:59 Write Speed Successfully Set! - Effective: 71,920 KB/s (16x) I 19:52:44 Operation Successfully Completed! - Duration: 00:05:44 I 19:52:44 Average Write Rate: 40,212 KiB/s (9.2x) - Maximum Write Rate: 53,756 KiB/s (12.2x) While it is common to get 0.1x higher than the maximum rated speed on Pioneer drives, getting 0.2x isn't. So, if I had a larger image to burn, I'm more and more confident I could get 16x. And this wasn't even on one of the branded 6x BD-R I just got. This was on an older inkjet printable 6x Verbatim BD-R.

Yes, there's no + and - differentiation with BD. They sussed that out with the previous format war causing too much fragmentation. So, the past format war, which BD won, was just between two competing technologies. Not just different flavors of the same thing. Well, Handbrake does offer different sizes based on the quality you choose. And the quality is determined by which speed you choose. I've never actually converted BD material to containers except for a BD whose contents were entirely SD material previously released on DVD. The contents were SD and, since they were recorded on video tape in the early 1970's, could never be upscaled to BD quality. They'd be standard definition just in BD format. So, the resulting container files I got were on par with DVD conversion size. All around 750 MB. I did do a BD conversion of a real quality BD with ConvertXToDVD. It was a 50 GB disc and the resulting movie input was too large for DVD. However, that was with all the extra language audio tracks, which were like 12 total! Once I eliminated everything except the English main feature audio track and English commentary track, the 50 GB movie was compressible down to DVD-9 size. Just barely.

I tested one of these 6x BD-R to see what I'd get. I didn't have a large sample to work with, but here's what I got: I 19:15:55 Source File Size: 9,565,306,880 bytes I 19:15:55 Destination Device: [0:0:0] PIONEER BD-RW BDR-211M 1.52 (R:) (USB 3.0) I 19:15:55 Destination Media Type: BD-R (HTL) (Disc ID: VERBAT-IMe-000) I 19:15:55 Destination Media Supported Write Speeds: 2x, 4x, 6x, 8x, 10x, 12x, 16x I 19:15:55 Write Speed Successfully Set! - Effective: 71,920 KB/s (16x) I 19:20:56 Operation Successfully Completed! - Duration: 00:05:00 I 19:20:56 Average Write Rate: 36,346 KiB/s (8.3x) - Maximum Write Rate: 48,896 KiB/s (11.1x) So, I got a supported maximum of 16 and an effective write rate set of 16, too. Whether I'd actually get 16 is up for debate as I didn't even get 12, but I almost got 12 before the end of data. Maybe these will write at 16x. I won't know until I get a higher capacity image file to burn these to. Like 20 GB or closer to 25 to know for sure.

As with DVD, it all depends on the codec/compression method you use. Blu-Ray, like DVD before it, is really large because of the age of its codec. Over time, better codecs came along that allowed for better compression. Plus, you don't know how long the resulting container file took to process. You may get a 1 GB container file from a 25 GB Blu-Ray movie, but how long did it take for the maker of that container file to compress it? Could have been hours.

They're not Ricoh. They're Verbatim branded BD-R. It is an Amazon.com order, so it's covered by them. But, I'd just send them back and end up getting MORE 6x media. Amazon.com is probably trying to clear out stock of old 6x media. And these 6x media MIGHT write at 16x in my Pioneer BDR-211. They should write at 12x at least. That was the previous behavior with 6x Verbatim BD-R in the BDR-2209 and the LG WH16NS60. So, it probably would be a waste of my time to send them back. Best to just keep them and save me the trouble since I can use them.

Interesting. Ordered some 16x BD-R's from Amazon.com in a 25 cake stack. The site description says 16x. The images show 16x. Received 6x! While 6x will write at 12x, at least, I don't know if they're rated for 16x or not.

Yes, check the FAQ; I just did. It will tell you how to enable Debug Mode and copy and paste the appropriate log section so LUK can debug it.

Try changing your Interface and see if that helps. It's currently set at SPTI. Under Tools, under Settings, under I/O, on Page 1, there's an Interface listing. SPTI should be selected. Try the other options and see if you get any better results. You may need to exit and restart ImgBurn after each change, I'm not sure. If this doesn't help, change the setting back to its default of SPTI. Other than that, LUK will have to cover it as I'm tapped out.

I let Firefox store my sign ins and passwords locally. And, as a backup, I've got a word processor file that has all this information that itself is password protected. While not 100% secure, I've been doing it this way for years and haven't been hacked. In fact, I've used the same password, sometimes verbatim sometimes with variations, for most of my sites and even my own PC since 1992. I've never been hacked. And I won't be hacked. If my information is dumped, it will be the fault of some web site that didn't properly pay for its own decent security.

I, too, read about that. You can actually configure Windows as of now to not require a sign in log on. It's best enabled by certain software like Windows 10 Manager. Even Microsoft admitted passwords won't be totally eliminated and I don't see how they can be. As for servers storing your passwords, well, that would only matter if you sign in with a Microsoft account, wouldn't it? Which I don't use. I prefer passwords over PIN's. Unless you use really long PIN's, they're probably easier to crack than passwords. I don't trust facial recognition or fingerprint scans. Your face changes as you age. And what if you have some kind of accident like a scar that changes your fingerprint? Plus, it seems to me easier to get a copy of someone's fingerprint by lifting it off of a glass versus being impeded by a long string of characters only the user knows. Bottom line: I don't WANT passwords to go away. I can easily remember my own. And they're not as insecure as the tech companies want you to believe. Accounts are hacked not because you have poor passwords but because tech companies half ass on the expense to secure THEIR systems. Hacks occur in big bundles from a tech company's server. NOT from hacking people's accounts. If companies invested in proper security, this wouldn't happen as often as it does. And companies skimp on the security because they're greedy.