dbminter

I'm not entirely sure how this works, actually. I would think a media rated at Zx maximum would only get Zx at the most. Yet, newer drives are, more and more, getting faster speeds on older media. And it only seems to be for WORM (Write Once, Read Many) media. Rewritable media are always stuck at their maximum rating for maximum burning speed. With some 0.1x variations. For instance, some drives get 8.1x maximum write rates on Ricoh/Ritek 8x DVD+RW. Never quite figured that one out either.

Looks like on this Pioneer 211, 6x media may very well get 16x. I had a little larger data set this time and got this: I 19:46:59 Destination Device: [0:0:0] PIONEER BD-RW BDR-211M 1.52 (R:) (USB 3.0) I 19:46:59 Destination Media Type: BD-R (HTL) (Disc ID: VERBAT-IMe-000) I 19:46:59 Destination Media Supported Write Speeds: 2x, 4x, 6x, 8x, 10x, 12x, 16x I 19:46:59 Destination Media Sectors: 12,219,392 I 19:46:59 Write Speed Successfully Set! - Effective: 71,920 KB/s (16x) I 19:52:44 Operation Successfully Completed! - Duration: 00:05:44 I 19:52:44 Average Write Rate: 40,212 KiB/s (9.2x) - Maximum Write Rate: 53,756 KiB/s (12.2x) While it is common to get 0.1x higher than the maximum rated speed on Pioneer drives, getting 0.2x isn't. So, if I had a larger image to burn, I'm more and more confident I could get 16x. And this wasn't even on one of the branded 6x BD-R I just got. This was on an older inkjet printable 6x Verbatim BD-R.

Yes, there's no + and - differentiation with BD. They sussed that out with the previous format war causing too much fragmentation. So, the past format war, which BD won, was just between two competing technologies. Not just different flavors of the same thing. Well, Handbrake does offer different sizes based on the quality you choose. And the quality is determined by which speed you choose. I've never actually converted BD material to containers except for a BD whose contents were entirely SD material previously released on DVD. The contents were SD and, since they were recorded on video tape in the early 1970's, could never be upscaled to BD quality. They'd be standard definition just in BD format. So, the resulting container files I got were on par with DVD conversion size. All around 750 MB. I did do a BD conversion of a real quality BD with ConvertXToDVD. It was a 50 GB disc and the resulting movie input was too large for DVD. However, that was with all the extra language audio tracks, which were like 12 total! Once I eliminated everything except the English main feature audio track and English commentary track, the 50 GB movie was compressible down to DVD-9 size. Just barely.

I tested one of these 6x BD-R to see what I'd get. I didn't have a large sample to work with, but here's what I got: I 19:15:55 Source File Size: 9,565,306,880 bytes I 19:15:55 Destination Device: [0:0:0] PIONEER BD-RW BDR-211M 1.52 (R:) (USB 3.0) I 19:15:55 Destination Media Type: BD-R (HTL) (Disc ID: VERBAT-IMe-000) I 19:15:55 Destination Media Supported Write Speeds: 2x, 4x, 6x, 8x, 10x, 12x, 16x I 19:15:55 Write Speed Successfully Set! - Effective: 71,920 KB/s (16x) I 19:20:56 Operation Successfully Completed! - Duration: 00:05:00 I 19:20:56 Average Write Rate: 36,346 KiB/s (8.3x) - Maximum Write Rate: 48,896 KiB/s (11.1x) So, I got a supported maximum of 16 and an effective write rate set of 16, too. Whether I'd actually get 16 is up for debate as I didn't even get 12, but I almost got 12 before the end of data. Maybe these will write at 16x. I won't know until I get a higher capacity image file to burn these to. Like 20 GB or closer to 25 to know for sure.

As with DVD, it all depends on the codec/compression method you use. Blu-Ray, like DVD before it, is really large because of the age of its codec. Over time, better codecs came along that allowed for better compression. Plus, you don't know how long the resulting container file took to process. You may get a 1 GB container file from a 25 GB Blu-Ray movie, but how long did it take for the maker of that container file to compress it? Could have been hours.

They're not Ricoh. They're Verbatim branded BD-R. It is an Amazon.com order, so it's covered by them. But, I'd just send them back and end up getting MORE 6x media. Amazon.com is probably trying to clear out stock of old 6x media. And these 6x media MIGHT write at 16x in my Pioneer BDR-211. They should write at 12x at least. That was the previous behavior with 6x Verbatim BD-R in the BDR-2209 and the LG WH16NS60. So, it probably would be a waste of my time to send them back. Best to just keep them and save me the trouble since I can use them.

Interesting. Ordered some 16x BD-R's from Amazon.com in a 25 cake stack. The site description says 16x. The images show 16x. Received 6x! While 6x will write at 12x, at least, I don't know if they're rated for 16x or not.

Yes, check the FAQ; I just did. It will tell you how to enable Debug Mode and copy and paste the appropriate log section so LUK can debug it.

Try changing your Interface and see if that helps. It's currently set at SPTI. Under Tools, under Settings, under I/O, on Page 1, there's an Interface listing. SPTI should be selected. Try the other options and see if you get any better results. You may need to exit and restart ImgBurn after each change, I'm not sure. If this doesn't help, change the setting back to its default of SPTI. Other than that, LUK will have to cover it as I'm tapped out.

I let Firefox store my sign ins and passwords locally. And, as a backup, I've got a word processor file that has all this information that itself is password protected. While not 100% secure, I've been doing it this way for years and haven't been hacked. In fact, I've used the same password, sometimes verbatim sometimes with variations, for most of my sites and even my own PC since 1992. I've never been hacked. And I won't be hacked. If my information is dumped, it will be the fault of some web site that didn't properly pay for its own decent security.

I, too, read about that. You can actually configure Windows as of now to not require a sign in log on. It's best enabled by certain software like Windows 10 Manager. Even Microsoft admitted passwords won't be totally eliminated and I don't see how they can be. As for servers storing your passwords, well, that would only matter if you sign in with a Microsoft account, wouldn't it? Which I don't use. I prefer passwords over PIN's. Unless you use really long PIN's, they're probably easier to crack than passwords. I don't trust facial recognition or fingerprint scans. Your face changes as you age. And what if you have some kind of accident like a scar that changes your fingerprint? Plus, it seems to me easier to get a copy of someone's fingerprint by lifting it off of a glass versus being impeded by a long string of characters only the user knows. Bottom line: I don't WANT passwords to go away. I can easily remember my own. And they're not as insecure as the tech companies want you to believe. Accounts are hacked not because you have poor passwords but because tech companies half ass on the expense to secure THEIR systems. Hacks occur in big bundles from a tech company's server. NOT from hacking people's accounts. If companies invested in proper security, this wouldn't happen as often as it does. And companies skimp on the security because they're greedy.

If checked, does Delete Image send the image file to the Recycle Bin or permanently delete it? If the image is split into multiple parts, I'm guessing all parts are deleted? If MDS and DVD files are created along with an image, are they deleted as well? Thanks!

Before you invest in the cost, time, and installation of a new drive, try investing in the DataLifePlus/AZO CD-R's and see if that helps. 1.) it's cheaper and 2.) it's easier. And even if you still have the problem, you will know it's not the cheap CMC media that is doing it. If you still have the problem on the quality discs, you will know it's your drive, your system, or the image you're trying to burn that's the problem. As for the image source you're trying to burn, I'm going to guess you didn't make this image yourself? If so, there's no guarantee the images are even good.

Do as LUK said and post the log of a failed burn. Open Help and choose ImgBurn logs. Open the log file, find a failed burn, and copy and paste that burn's log in its entirety. I still say it's the cheap discs. It's the nature of CMC discs. Something you get burns that complete and sometimes you don't. And even if they do complete, there's no guarantee they won't be unreadable in a year or will play in a particular device you want to try them in. I'd still say if you used DataLifePlus/AZO the problem would go away. CMC failures generally go away when you do. However, if CMC had been working for you before and you're fine still using CMC discs, how old is this drive you've been using? If it's been in use for some time (And even if it hasn't as drives can die within 2 months of use even new.) it may mean the drive needs cleaning or replacing.

Are they also CMC discs?

Here's your probable problem: MID: 97m26s66f (CMC Magnetics Corp.) Manufacturer: CMC Magnetics Corp. You're using the cheap Verbatim Life Series CD-R, probably bought in a brick and mortar store. They're made by CMC Magnetics, the worst manufacturer of optical discs out there. Try using the higher quality Verbatim DataLife Plus/AZO discs which you'll only find in online stores.

I was in the process of replying earlier, but once I saw it was doing the same thing on 2 different drives, I decided not to post. It shouldn't be dependent on if you installed the Windows 10 1903 Refresh or not. And it seems highly unlikely that 2 different drives would die at the same time. You said you used them for 2 years, which is pretty good for an optical drive, but not unheard of for Pioneers. So, maybe they both died simultaneously, but unlikely. So, where does that leave us? The most common denominator is the image file you're trying to burn. Did you create it or did you download it from somewhere? If you didn't create it yourself, the image file may be damaged. Even then, though, that generally doesn't result in write errors. Write errors are the result of either the drive, the disc you're trying to burn to, or a combination of both. However, at this point, I'd try what LUK recommended. Trying these drives in another PC and see if you get the same results. Also, as LUK said, are these 3 discs from the same stack/box? And is this a new box? Or have you successfully used them before?

I've never used that software, but a near 50 GB installer seems like an awful lot. That would be 1 DL BD or multiple DVD-9's. And downloading that much content from an online installer seems like an awful lot, too. Each time you'd want to reinstall the whole thing, you'd have to download 50 GB. Which I can see why someone would want to save the files offline. You may just need to devote a decently large flash drive to storing it. The installation media doesn't need to be bootable, I'd guess. Or use a BD DL.

Saw this one coming from a mile away! Decided to try a Pioneer BDR-211UBK to see if they fixed the 209's problems like how LG fixed the WH16NS40 with the WH16NS60. However, since both the 211 and 209 share the same firmware revision, I knew it would still be screwed up. And it is! The Ritek/Ricoh 8x DVD+RW problem persisted over, so I know the other issue will also carry over between the two drives. When the Pioneers format brand new Ricoh/Ritek 8x DVD+RW discs, they will ALWAYS fail Verify with an L-EC Uncorrectable Error at some random point! Writes will ALWAYS fail Verify on the 1.52 firmware (And the previous 1.51 firmware.) until the disc is written in another drive. After that happens, the discs ARE usable on 1.52 in the Pioneers. Pioneer always borks the firmware of their drives. 1.50 was the last firmware that worked right. The other issue is with Ricoh/Ritek Memorex 2x BD-RE. What happens there is Verify completes but for 90% of the Verify, it is capped at only 2x Verify speed! I keep TELLING Pioneer, but they don't give a damn. They only care about . So, with the current Pioneer models, you get some faster write rates, but you need 2 drives! One drive to initially write Ricoh/Ritek 8x DVD+RW and the Pioneer to write 16x BD-R at 16x. And the 2nd drive for Verifying Ricoh/Ritek Memorex BD-RE with.

Now, I have noticed random cases where when I imported a folder into a Build job in ImgBurn, it actually adds the contents from a folder from somewhere else. Are there actually 48.9 GB worth of files in that VS2017_Professional folder?

Yes, it's Hide protected operating system files (Recommended) under View under Folder Options. I always disable it as part of a new PC install.

Oh, you can ALWAYS go wrong with a Sony product. I eventually got my PS3 to play Blu-Ray movies after Sony replaced my defective model out of the box. But, someone else on here has a PS3 and it NEVER has played a Blu-Ray movie! Plays Blu-Ray PS3 games, but not movies. When my PS3 plays out, I'll just have to try whatever Blu-Ray player I can find at Wal-Mart. Definitely WON'T try a Playstation. The PS3 and the PS3 remote experiences I had finally sealed the doom of Sony with me.

It was probably the reboot. What happens every so often is an application that creates or last accessed a file is still in memory, even if it was closed off. And, it fails to properly "release" its "hold" on the file.

Try rebooting. Don't just log off Windows and sign back in. Totally restart the PC and Windows.

What is the oldest version of Windows that ImgBurn will run on?