dbminter

If they do, they would most likely save just 1 disc for special features, make it the last in the set, and make it a DVD-9.

Looks like whoever made the GOT DVD's went cheap and used DVD-5's instead of lowering the disc count with DVD-9's.

And, as I said before, if your player supports playing MP4 files natively, you can probably fit an entire season on an SL disc depending on the size of the MP4's. However, if you're going for a DVD playable disc, it would vary how many episodes you could fit on a disc. 1 hour episodes are generally between 42 and 45 minutes, but that's factoring in commercials, which Game Of Thrones wouldn't. So, you should be able to fit comfortably the 2 episodes per SL disc mentioned already. Again, it depends on a few factors you'd have to experiment with.

There are a variety of factors that dictate how many "episodes" you can fit on an SL disc. It depends on 1.) the running time 2.) the compression/codec used on the source file and 3.) the application you're using. For instance, it's not unusual for ConvertXToDVD to fit 4 "1 hour" episodes on an SL without any significant video quality loss. The 120 minute label applied to SL DVD's was for standalone DVD video recorders like Panasonic's. And even then, you could choose higher compression rates and get 4 and 6 hours on an SL, but with significant video quality loss. There's even a 1 hour option for even better video quality.

If you have a DVD/Blu-Ray player that supports playing files such as MP4 natively, you can just burn a series of MP4 files to single layer DVD's. However, as was previously said, if you want DVD Video out of the MP4 files, you'll need a conversion software like ConvertXToDVD to create a VIDEO_TS first.

Got my first chance to use the 16x Verbatim BD-R in the LG WH16NS60. It only writes to 12x max on these. Granted, I only wrote 23 GB out of a total 25, but even at that, I got only 12.0x maximum write rate. I might have gotten above 12 with a full 25 GB, but not 16. LG writers always were slower than Pioneers, but given how Pioneer keeps borking the firmware of their BDR-2209, I'd rather have a stable, slower drive than one they're always messing up that does some things faster. I still want to try Pioneer's BDR-211UBK, though. The LG WH16NS40 was pretty bad at writing BD DL media, but the NS60 fixed that one nagging issue that prevented me from using that drive. The BDR-211UBK could be a similar case. It's an Ultra HD drive versus the 2209 which isn't. So, maybe Pioneer got this one right as it might have a different firmware. The firmware package is larger than than the 2209's. What worries me, though, is the firmware revision number is exactly the same as the most current for the 2209! This makes me think that whatever the 2209 is not doing right, the BDR-211UBK will also not do right. But, maybe I'll be wrong... most likely not! But, my 2209 stopped writing Ritek 8x DVD+RW anyway so I can't really use it over the WH16NS60. So, it gives me a good excuse to try the BDR-211UBK in maybe 2 months when I can scrape together $125.

Just got a call back (Finally.) from LG about my drive. They keep saying, because they did it twice, that they tried to reach me by phone but failed. I thought it was maybe boilerplate e-mail text, but I actually DID get a call from LG today! Funny thing is I was also getting e-mails saying they were contacting me about repairs for my TV instead! They initially wrote me back the first time saying I didn't supply the serial # from the device. Which is fine... except the LG idiots say RIGHT on their support submission form that sending the serial # is OPTIONAL! They told me to resend the request, so I did and this time it looks like I'm getting somewhere! They're sending me return shipping labels for me to send in the defective unit. They tell me the replacement will be a refurbished drive, but it will be "like new." As long as it works, it beats having lost $115 for only less than 2 months of use!

No. The last player I bought was a Playstation 3 in 2011. And I no longer recommend anything Sony makes because they've a steady pattern of producing junk since 2002. Even this PS3, though I've had it for almost 8 years, required my sending it in to Sony for replacement after only a month. So, a PS4 might work out fine. But, only if it's a fat model. Don't get any slim model Playstations from Sony, that's for sure.

I would lay the blame on your Panasonic player in this case. I know Panasonic standalone DVD video recorders have some playback issues. I've got some pressed movie DVD's that I've had a few Panasonic recorders not play at all but play fine in other players. Since the disc plays back without problem on your PC drive, the issue does seem to be with your Panasonic player, yes.

That's a probably a problem with your Panasonic player. When you say you play the file on your computer, are you playing the disc you just burned or the file from your computer hard drive? Try playing from the disc you just burned in your PC burner and see if it jumps. If it isn't jerky, your Panasonic player doesn't like those kinds of discs. And it happens sometimes. If it's still jerky, then, did you convert the file from your PC's hard drive to a Blu-Ray? Play the Blu-Ray output from the converter on your PC and see if it's jerky from your hard drive. If it is, then the problem is with the converter software.

Okay. No, I've never seen a single episode. Don't get HBO. Can't afford it. My local library at one time had all seasons on DVD, but I don't know if they do anymore. And, after these years, such a popular release is either scratched all to holy Hell and unplayable or simply someone stole it claiming to "lose" it. Anyway, it's just something that never interested me. Dragons and showing boobs seem boring to me. Funny that I'm watching Family Guy right now which had a joke in its new episode tonight about a TV show called Dragon Boobs as a parody of Game Of Thrones. Dragonheart is more along my lines of a dragon story that I liked.

I've never actually seen the label DataLife Plus applied to Verbatim BD-R before. Just CD and DVD. So, I can't say for sure. I've never seen that packaging before either. And given that it's outside the US, I also can't say. However, DataLife Plus is the quality label Verbatim puts on its highest tier CD and DVD recordable discs. In the US, there is no DataLife Plus label on the BD-R. It's all the same stuff with Disc ID VERBAT-IM. However, Verbatim BD-RE SL are CMC junk and should be avoided, but their BD-RE DL is TDK, which is good quality. So, it's hard to say since Verbatim doesn't follow a steady pattern in the US either. If I had to hazard a guess, I'd say if it says DataLife Plus on it, go for it.

That's what I meant by a Panasonic DVD recorder. A standalone DVD recorder that records from TV/VCR/RCA cable/component connected devices. If he said it was that kind of recorder, I was going to explain that they can return those kinds of errors on their discs. I've been using Panasonic DVD video recorders since 2002 and I've had several models. I believe all of them create discs that ImgBurn cannot read to a file because of how they record their discs with a new track each time you add a title set.

I would agree to try something other than Ritek first. Depending on where you live, Ritek can be pretty bad stuff. In Europe, it's pretty notorious for being problematic. In the US, where I live, it's a somewhat decent 2nd tier product, but I wouldn't use it if I could use something else. Particularly Ritek BD media. They have playback problems on the PS3 which I have verified through experience. Since it seems you're trying to burn a movie BD, try Verbatim BD-R. However, as someone pointed out in another thread, in Europe, Verbatim might be using CMC for its BD-R, which IS the worst you can get. So, don't get the Life Series you'll find in stores as they will be CMC. You will want the Verbatim BD-R that says its Disc ID is VERBAT-IM. You'll usually only find those online. They may say AZO or DataLife Plus (NOT Life Series.) on them. Now, the DataLife Series you find online like on Amazon.co.uk may be CMC. Being in the US, I don't know; I'm just reporting what someone in Europe encountered recently in their posts. They ended up importing good Verbatim from Amazon.com, choosing the stuff I get.

When you say DVD recorder that created the disc you're trying to copy, do you mean a burner like a drive in your PC or an external DVD video recorder like a Panasonic drive? I can understand why it might say that on a Panasonic drive and will explain more later if that's the case. When you're in Build mode, it's not asking you to locate an image file. In this case, in your case, you'd want to put in the disc you're trying to make a copy of and drag and drop all files and folders from the disc in your drive into a Build image project. Build will then create an image file from those files you added for burning to a disc.

I remember the dark days of the late 1990's when programmers got lazy and thought they'd hit the jackpot. They started coding their menu interfaces as HTML and letting IE 4 serve as the main interface. Then, IE 5 came out and broke like half of everyone's applications! I remember buying one program in a brick and mortar store that didn't work out of the box because IE 5 kept the HTML from loading. After that fiasco, no one ever did what was such a stupid idea to begin with ever again. And I still remember the days before there was DL DVD recordable media and you were forced to do everything on DVD-5's. Of course, I can also remember getting into CD burning in 2000 before that. Yeah, it's all been a pretty wild ride over the past nearly 2 decades. I mean, now we've got 125 GB discs to work with if we desire! Even with just DL BD media, you can (Usually. Unless you're a gamer, where games take up a LARGE amount of storage space.) backup your entire Windows partition of installed applications and Windows itself onto one disc now! (One should keep their data separate from Windows to make backing up easier/shorter. I never use Documents.) My general experience has been whenever you see some kind of odd output from ConvertXToDVD, it's the fault of the source file. The program has, of course, had problems in the past with conversions, but those are generally limited to when X.0 versions are released and the software is pretty much "brand new." I never understood the concept of rewriting something from the bottom up IF it already works!

As for DVD burning coming a long way, I got in on it in 2002, back when there was mostly just 1x DVD-R. DVD+R had just come out but even then it was either only 1x or 2.4x. And this was before buffer underrun protection was common, so you'd spend 59 minutes of an hour burn (A full DVD-R takes 60 minutes to burn at 1x.) and then have it fail at 99% completion! My first DVD-R burner was an old Panasonic with a tray designed to hold cartridges for those kinds of DVD-RAM discs. Yeah, I made the switch over to DVD+R after I used up my last inkjet printable DVD-R blanks. I still have branded DVD-R blanks for other burns I won't be keeping/temporary storage. So, now I use DVD+RW, DVD+R, and DVD+R DL for my DVD needs. I still have some older 4x DVD-RW for compatibility reasons and that there's only one company making 8x DVD+RW anymore. So, the next RW discs I will get will probably be 4x DVD+RW since Verbatim still makes DataLife Plus DVD+RW, but only at 4x.

VSO released another new update to VSO Downloader. Interesting how they keep updating that minor app yet don't seem too keen on doing anything to flagship progs like ConvertXToDVD or ConvertXToVideo. It's been over a year since the last gold release of ConvertXToVideo.

Amazon will generally be cheaper than buying the same thing, if you can find it, in brick and mortar stores. For instance, Office Depot in town sells some of the same Verbatim BD-R I buy off of Amazon.com. (Back when Amazon sold the 6x speed discs, which they don't anymore. They only sell the 16x ones now.) But, they only sell them in packs of 10. They're $17 for 10, where Amazon sells them for like $37 for 50 of them. Office Depot is good for a few if I need some in an emergency, but only in that case. Otherwise, I'll just buy a 50 pack from Amazon and have them sitting around until I use up the ones I currently have on hand. It's far more cost effective that way.

No, I think the 16x BD-R are newer stock. They have newer labels on the surface that say 16x instead of 6, but I believe to BD drives, they're still recognized as 6x media. Although the BDR-2209, which has been around for at least 5 years, writes at 16x so they acknowledge the 16x write descriptor.

Yeah, I've never heard of just plain DataLife before. DataLife Plus and Life Series are all I've ever encountered before. My guess is because you bought them in a brick and mortar store, you got the CMC junk. Try looking online like on Amazon.co.uk and see if you can find any other Verbatim kind besides DataLife/the ones you found. The brick and mortar store Life Series here in the States is the junk; the stuff found on Amazon.com is the quality media. However, given you live in a different country where I know they do different production runs of media, I couldn't say. Sorry.

Well, I'm not really sure what to recommend. In the US, Verbatim doesn't make CMC BD-R as far as I am aware. All the Verbatim BD-R I use are VERBAT-IM media, which is quality stuff, and they only make the one kind. With you being in the UK, I don't know what Verbatim releases BD-R wise, but apparently they do package CMC BD-R . Do you have a picture of the packaging I can see? Does it say Life Series anywhere on it? I looked it up and it slipped past me but Verbatim does release a Life Series BD-R. Anyway, avoid anything from Verbatim that says Life Series. Life Series is the media they sell in stores and is CMC junk. What you want says DataLife Plus or AZO on it (Although the quality Verbatim BD-R don't say that anywhere.) and can only be found online. Here's what I always get and it's quality stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GSQ4DBM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 So, you'll want to find similar branding and/or labels on your discs. Here's the Life Series I found: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAE8P62U1938&ignorebbr=1&source=region&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC-_-pla-E-boxes-_-Blu-Ray+Media-_-9SIAE8P62U1938&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkoDmBRCcARIsAG3xzl-PkSNMK3jJAEczEVIPU4HoF_9V8IrAUT3AiYH-oGNqaM9ihjRH_sAaAmpOEALw_wcB Does the packaging from the Life Series link above resemble the ones you have? Do they say Life Series on the packaging? Did you buy them in a brick and mortar store? Hope this helps!

Then simply dragging and dropping files/folders should be good enough for what you need. With something like Reflect, you can just simply restore a file and folder backup and it will restore the nested folder structure, too.

I'm not sure if you need an M-Disc drive to read a written M-Disc BD-R. I know with M-Disc DVD, as long as you have a drive that reads DVD+R, it will read M-Disc DVD's. I believe even standalone DVD movie players will play DVD Video discs burned to M-Disc DVD's if that player supports playing DVD+R. I believe M-Disc was specifically made for this kind of compatibility. So, I'd guess an M-Disc BD-R burned in an M-Disc capable drive would read on a standard BD drive. Be aware, of course, since you used a TL disc, you'd need a BD drive that supports reading TL media, and not all BD drives do. Of course, if you always buy an M-Disc capable drive, you won't have to worry about it not being able to be read back in. As for restoring, it depends on what you backed up and how you backed it up. If you used ImgBurn to just add files and folders to an image file job, then all you can do is use File Explorer to drag and drop the files/folders in Windows/File Explorer and replace the files in the destination if they already exist. If you're more concerned about restoring an entire drive from disaster, you'd be better off investing in a drive imaging application like Macrium Reflect (Which is what I use and also offers file and folder backups.) or True Image (Which I've used in the past but don't recommend any longer and it used to support file and folder backups 10 years ago when I last used it.). So, if you're looking to restore something like Windows, then Windows/File Explorer isn't the way to go as you can't just replace files in Windows/installed applications and expect it to work. You'd be better off served by an imaging application. And what you can do is create images to a local HDD and then use ImgBurn to copy these images to an M-Disc for archival purposes.

Yeah, game CD's sometimes won't read in with certain combinations of discs and drives with ImgBurn. It appears when there are multiple tracks, it can be problematic. When you're mixing one track of data and tracks of audio. That's why I keep Alcohol 120% Free lying around. On the rare occasions when I come across this.