dbminter

I don't understand what you mean. The disc has to spin in order for it be burned.

Yeah, those are the communication layers I mentioned in one of my updates to my previous reply.

I forget where it is, but there was a setting I always changed when installing and setting up a new PC that disabled Windows complaining you're not using your Microsoft account. But, I forget what it was I disabled and where. Wait, you're not getting this are you? https://superuser.com/questions/1123583/you-need-to-fix-your-microsoft-account-notification As for your ImgBurn settings question, I currently have an operation going so I can't check right now. When it's done, I'll update this reply to reflect what those settings are. It sounds like, from memory, the Elby software setting has to do with how ImgBurn detects what optical devices are connected to your system. Generally, you don't choose the Elby I/O option unless you have problems with the default setting with ImgBurn and your drives. Exactly where you looking at these settings? Help me help you. Under what tab, etc. Okay, I'm into the ImgBurn settings. I guess you mean under the I/O tab, Page 1, Interface tab. Anyway, if that's what you mean, yeah, that's what I thought it was. That's how ImgBurn communicates with your devices. Some people need different translation layers with their hardware to get ImgBurn to recognize their devices. Or, if they're not behaving right, maybe changing the layer fixes things on some people's setups. If you're not having any problems with ImgBurn communicating with your optical drives, leave its setting alone.

Most likely, those engines are flagging the OpenCandy plugin as malware. It's a PUP, Potentially Unwanted Program, but not malware. There is a difference that most AV vendors don't differentiate. Plus, OpenCandy is no more. The server's dead. The mirrors may be a different story as there's no control over what they do with the installer once they get it. Which is why you should always download from Mirror 7, the ImgBurn Provided link, and not the other mirrors.

Yes, in my experience, power calibration errors are rarely the result of actual power supply issues. Don't know why they call them that, then. However, I would make sure the drive is connected to an external enclosure with a proper external power supply to it. That may also fix your Eject issue. My experience has been low quality discs are generally the cause of power calibration errors. Post a log from a failed burn. Under Help, choose ImgBurn Logs to find the log file, open it, find a failed burn with a power calibration error in it, and post the entire burn and, if applicable, verification log of that operation. That would tell us more.

Sorry, I failed to reply to this earlier. If you're looking for CD-R's, those are good ones to get. I purchased some of those exact same ones October 17th, 2017. I don't go through a lot of branded CD-R, preferring inkjet label discs, so I still have them. If I remember correctly, the Manufacturer ID for those CD-R is Mitsubishi. That's the M in MCC and MKM, the quality DataLife Plus DVD discs. Mitsubishi makes the best stuff out there now.

Yes, unfortunately, there are a few CMC's out there, which leads to some confusion. What leads to more confusion is CMC is crap media; MCC is quality Verbatim DVD-R/DVD+R!

That's the nature of cheaply made media. Sometimes within the same package of discs, you'll get discs that pass write and verify and some that won't. And even those that do complete the burn and verify process, there's no guarantee they'll be playable in a certain device. And even if they are, because they're cheap media, they will probably be unreadable within a year or 2. And they definitely won't last as long as quality media. I once had a cake stack of 200 CMC's. They were Optodisc which used to make their own quality media, but switched to crap CMC. Out of those 200, about 100 failed to write. Which meant about 50% of them completed writing. Once I learned of CMC after this incident, I recopied those discs to better quality Verbatim discs just to be sure. I then went over my collection of already burned discs to make sure I didn't have any CMC's. CMC is crap because they're cheaply made. They use cheap dye in their discs, which leads to all kinds of incompatibility problems. Sure, they're cheaper to buy, but they're cheaper in quality as a result. There's an old Spanish saying that translates as "The cheap comes out expensive."

I disabled my Microsoft account and just use a local account. I don't want Microsoft with access to any of my stuff. We all know what they'll do with/to it. Plus, the so called benefits won't last. For instance, cloud storage of your Windows settings. Microsoft will just change the locations of those settings at some point in the future, requiring you to re-enter those configurations again at some later date. Plus, if you store everything in the cloud, what happens when that server is down?

Yeah, the refurbished drive is fine thus far. I wouldn't be worried about it for another month, though, as the one it replaced lasted about 2 months before it needed replacing. As for new media notification, I mean storage media. On 1903's initial release, whenever you inserted a flash drive or attached a new external USB HDD, the new Notification box would stay lit up until you manually clicked on it to open the Notifications list. This was the new behavior for all Notifications. Now, after the last KB update, it doesn't do this for new media detection but STILL does it for all other Notifications! In fact, this was the default behavior YEARS ago until Microsoft wised up and changed this behavior... then the dumbasses put it back in! I left the Notifications alone and they still were highlighted in the lower right hand corner to let me know I had Notifications. You will definitely know if you're on 1903. There's a new light theme that will change your Desktop to the new lighter blue Windows logo theme. Plus, simply Run/search for something called WINVER. It will tell you your current version of Windows. If you're running 1903, it will say Version 1903 near the top.

Depends on your definition of work. Some people have no problems with burning CMC media, but they will quickly learn they don't last long or don't playback on various devices when they try to play them. In general just avoid CMC media. They're trash. So, if you can return them, by all means return them. You can try to find DataLife Plus media on eBay, but you're better off ordering them from Amazon.com. That's where I get mine. If you bought Verbatim from Target, then they are CMC. Or you got some Memorex DVD+R DL, which will also be CMC. Verbatim you find in brick and mortar stores like Target will be the Verbatim Life Series. NOT DataLife Plus. Avoid any and all Life Series media you find in stores. Regardless of what they are, CD-R, DVD-R, DVD+R, or DVD+R DL, will be CMC trash.

The first step in troubleshooting would be to dump the Memorex CMC discs. There is really only one quality DVD+R DL out there and that's the Verbatim DataLife Plus MKM brand. Although I had good results with TDK's brand. However, I would first start with the quality media and work from there. It could be some other problem, but since CMC media is a common troublemaker, the first step in troubleshooting this would be to try quality media first.

Is your LG BD burner the WH16NS40? If it is, then that one is bad at writing DL BD discs. That's why I get the WH16NS60. It writes to them fine as far as my tests revealed.

Ah, IC. Hm, that is unusual. At best, the flash drive should be A: or B:. A: being the bootable image and B: being the flash drive. Or A: being the flash drive. I can't think of a situation where that would occur or how to fix it.

I've gotten flash drives to boot with floppy boot images and made them larger than 1.44 MB. I used something called WinImage, I think, to edit an image I made of a bootable floppy. Then, I edited that .IMG to add other things to it. Then, I forget what I used, but I used some other application to make this edited IMG into a bootable USB flash drive. I needed a bootable flash drive to run an ancient DOS word processor called Q&A. The drive had to contain all of my Q&A files and I had one database that was larger than 1.44 MB. I wish I could better remember what I used and how I did it because that might make what you want work. Sorry.

What do you mean floppies don't support directories? They'd be relatively useless if they didn't. As LUK said, do you have the CD driver you need to add to CONFIG.SYS/AUTOEXEC.BAT? (I forget what the file name is and whether you have to put it CONFIG.SYS or AUTOEXEC.BAT.) Without that on the bootable floppy, CD drives can't be accessed in DOS.

My guess is you'll probably have to forget about it. I don't know if Windows 95 even supports booting from USB, let alone installing from it. Was USB even supported in Windows 95? I thought USB didn't come out until 1999, by which time Windows ME had come out. And that would be the earliest support for USB, I'd think. And back in the early days of USB, booting from such devices wasn't in PC BIOS.

Looks like the recent Windows 10 1903 KB update addressed the issue of Notifications not clearing themselves automatically like they used to. Actually, it only fixed that for inserted new media.

Looks like that failed DVD+R was just a fluke. All of my other DVD+R burned fine since that failed first attempt.

Audio CD's are very unique beasts. Because they came first and before the creation of recordable CD's that could store data, Audio CD's aren't "data" CD's. They're specifically designed so they can be read on the external CD player hardware. For that reason, Audio CD images apparently can't be written to DVD or BD recordable discs. .CUE files are the same way. They can only be written to CD-R/RW.

I have to admit, I saw no appreciable difference in enabling hardware acceleration in ConvertXToDVD. I leave it enabled, but, as I said, I don't see any real benefit to it.

There's one reason why I'd consider buying ConvertXToVideo: the ability to convert ALL BD Video title sets to DVD VIDEO_TS. I could then import that VIDEO_TS into ConvertXToDVD to make a DVD like I like it. And ConvertXToDVD could always be updated to import ALL BD Video titles from a disc instead of just the main movie, like it does with DVD Video.

If you're sure they're music CD's and not DVD's, then something is up. It sounds like you created an image file from this music CD. While in Write mode with this image loaded, in the pane of image file info on the left hand side, what is the Size field in bytes? Also, are you putting in recordable DVD's into your burner instead of recordable CD's? If they're music CD's, you'll need CD-R or CD-RW to burn the image to. If you put in a recordable DVD and you're trying to burn an Audio CD image to it, ImgBurn might be detecting you're trying to write to the wrong media format. In this case, DVD-R/DVD+R/DVD-RW/DVD+RW/DVD-RAM.

dr_ml, I'm curious. What did VSO eventually tell you?

Well, after testing the new VanTec enclosure I tried to see if it was just my last model, it isn't! It took 6 days, but the fundamental flaws in this device showed themselves again. It randomly dropped communication with the device! Thankfully, it did it during a Verify, so I didn't lose a disc. So, it just goes to prove I'm generally right! I figured it was a fundamental flaw in this piece of junk, and it is. Well, it goes back to Amazon.com! Actually, it shows what I know! It proved to me I should do my due duty before reaching a conclusion. I tried Verifying again and it always dropped communication at roughly the same place. So, I put the disc in my internal SATA LG and tried to Verify it that way. At roughly the same place (53% on the VanTec versus 51% on the SATA.) it failed to Verify due to an unreadable sector. Now, when there are failures of write or Verifies on the VanTec, it always did drop communication with the device. A DIFFERENT fundamental flaw. That's why I decided to test it in another drive. So, it seems I had a bad disc or a bad burn. I'll see if this happens again. However, it could mean the refurbished LG is bad, too, as I don't know if I've written single layer DVD+R in it yet. I know I have successfully made BD-R, DVD+RW, and DVD+R DL in it. Could have just been a bad blank. The 2nd attempt to burn it completed fully and successfully in the VanTec. However, this could be indicative of a bad refurbished drive. That it randomly fails to burn properly DVD+R. Since I don't know if I successfully burned DVD+R before, I can't rule out either a bad blank or a bad drive.