Jump to content


Beta Team Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Shamus_McFartfinger

  1. It wouldn't hurt. Optical drives don't like SATA controllers a great deal. I'd still slow it down and see what happens before pulling your machine apart and throwing your drive onto the IDE controller.
  2. Slow your burn down to 4x and see if that makes a difference.
  3. Check the FAQ section of this forum for instructions on DMA issues and also confirm that you're using an 80 wire IDE ribbon cable and not 40 wire.
  4. An ISO is a disk image. A *complete* disk image. A replica of a physical disk. Each ISO has a definite start and definite finish. You can't chuck a few ISOs on a disk and expect it to play. It just doesn't work that way. There's no simple answer to what you want to do. To have each episode and chapter available, you'll need to re-author your ISO files and combine them in a format suitable for Blu-Ray which is something far beyond the scope of ImgBurn.
  5. The exchange rate might be bad but at the end of the day, a few dollars via PayPal doesn't cost that much. I'm sure Lightning_UK! would be happy with any amount sent in appreciation. Even a dollar is one step closer to a beer. Mmmmm......... Beer.
  6. Copy protection will also stop ImgBurn from reading your disk. That part we can't help you with. You'll need to look elsewhere for answers.
  7. Not intuitive? The interface can't get much simpler. That said, this isn't a tool for beginners. It never was. If you want to be treated like an idiot, use Nero. If you have a higher expectation of what burning software should be like and what it can do, use this. Pretty simple really. See above. Being an expert means nothing here. The majority of the self-confessed experts who descend on this forum are halfwits who fail at even the basic level. Give me a beginner anyday as they usually listen to what they're being told rather than debate the obvious. True - but throwing a few dollars at the author will give you a warm, fuzzy feeling. It's Australian. It's alot like English but with less tolerance and more swearing. I'm glad somebody recognized it for what it was. The opinions of those at the lower end of the gene pool (the aforementioned experts as well as the generic arsewipes who do nothing but complain) matter little to most everyone here. If you want the software equivalent of a frontal lobotomy, use Nero. If you wish to learn, this forum and it's regulars can and will help you. All you have to do is ask.
  8. Someone who sets themselves up as a consultant and gets paid a lot to look at others people's work and tell them what they think it should be instead of what the designer wanted it to be. Alot like a food critic. They can't cook for shit but they'll tell you what's wrong with everything placed in front of them. Opinions such as these should be given the contempt they deserve.
  9. Hmm... the disks you are using were made in India. A quick look around the net reports the quality to be hit and miss. Before getting into the nitty gritty of what the problem might be, grab some good media like Verbatim or Taiyo Yuden and have another go. What I can tell you is that the problem isn't ImgBurn. Your drive appears to have failed. Any problem that Imgburn displays in its log will be the drive reporting an error and the software displaying that error.
  10. Almost a certainty. Correct. Your drive should support something called BURNPROOF. It's pretty much standard these days and ImgBurn supports it as well. You can read more about what BurnProof is and what it does using the link below. If you're still not sure what it is after doing some reading, ask. http://www.digital-sanyo.com/BURN-Proof/
  11. What this means is that your harddrive can't send data to your burner at the speed your burner requires to maintain a constant and consistent burn. In other words, your burner is requesting data and your harddrive can't send it fast enough to keep up. Have a look in the FAQ area of this forum regarding DMA issues.
  12. In simple terms, every drive is different and every batch of disks is different. Using a low quality drive and/or low quality media (where tolerances can vary greatly), can result in incompatibilities between the two resulting in failure. Media that works in one drive may fail in another. With a good drive, updated firmware and good media, you can't go wrong. Matshita are often rebadged as Panasonic drives and is an example of a poorly made drive. The brand of your media (Memorex, TDK etc) means nothing. The actual dye used is what's important. Brand names such as Memorex are almost always garbage because their manufacturing process has been outsourced to India, China and other places that have questionable quality control. ProDisc and CMC Magnetics DVD media comes to mind. It's crap because they use cheap chemicals. Taiyo Yuden and Verbatim media use the best. Their tolerances are alot tighter and the chemicals are better meaning that more drives can read and write to them.
  13. I'm glad it worked. There's no need to do a new backup. All you've done is changed the way your files are stored on your drive. You haven't changed the files themselves. Also, now that your drive is formatted to NTFS, you get alot of cool benefits. Not only can you store very large files (up to 2 terabytes) but READ/WRITE speed to the drive will be faster. If you want to learn more, try this link. http://www.ntfs.com/ntfs_vs_fat.htm
  14. There has to be a space. d: is the drive name. /fs:ntfs is the command switch.
  15. I think it's a keyboard error. Turn your caps lock off and try again.
  16. There's no reason to use the FAT32 filesystem these days. Do yourself a favour and convert it to NTFS. Open a Command Prompt (START>Programs>Accessories>Command Prompt) and type the text below exactly... and then hit Enter. convert d: /fs:ntfs
  17. Browsing for files and folders works fine for me. Check the ImgBurn logs. You'll probably find something like this: That's what the calculator is for. This might seem a bit personal but did you have an anal birth? Look again at your logs. I'm sure it'll say you're an idiot. This is truly tragic. That DVD must have cost you almost 40 cents. I suppose you could always try to recover your losses by auctioning off your spare penis. Nobody gets this stupid by playing with just one. How is it complicated? It's dead easy. I suggest trading in your PC and purchasing something more suited to your level of expertise. Something involving chronic and frequent masturbation would seem the logical choice. Don't like it? Don't use it. This concept is fairly simple, much like yourself.
  18. The disk name or brand means nothing. Toss a blank into your burner and select WRITE MODE from the menu. Copy and paste the text from the window on the right to this forum. It'll look something like this: TSSTcorp CD/DVDW TS-H552U US08 (ATA) Current Profile: DVD-R Disc Information: Status: Empty Erasable: No Free Sectors: 2,298,496 Free Space: 4,707,319,808 bytes Free Time: 510:48:46 (MM:SS:FF) Supported Write Speeds: 2x, 4x, 6x, 8x Pre-recorded Information: Manufacturer ID: TYG02 Physical Format Information (Last Recorded): Book Type: DVD-R Part Version: 5 Disc Size: 120mm Maximum Read Rate: Not Specified Number of Layers: 1 Track Path: Parallel Track Path (PTP) Linear Density: 0.267 um/bit Track Density: 0.74 um/track First Physical Sector of Data Area: 196,608 Last Physical Sector of Data Area: 0 Last Physical Sector in Layer 0: 0 The Manufacturer ID is what we're interested in.
  19. You can't force 2x on media that doesn't support it.
  20. Your computer doesn't care where the files are as long as it can find them. You can burn any files you choose to an ISO image. When burning your FLAC files from a DVD, think of as a small harddrive. The files will look the same on a DVD as they would on a harddrive. Afterall, a DVD is only a storage device. The capacity might differ but it's no different from a pendrive/flashdrive/harddrive or whatever. Pick the files you want and then burn them to CD.
  21. You sure can. Imgburn doesn't care what the files are. FLAC, text, mp3, pictures. It doesn't matter. They're all just data files. The easiest way I can think of is to use Burrrn. It's a really, really good freeware burner made specifically for audio CDs. Let's go through the steps I'd take using the info you've given. 1. Build a DVD image containing your FLAC files using ImgBurn by adding the files you want to the queue. (Build Mode. Read the guides in the guides area of this forum). 2. Burn the image to DVD You now have a DVD full of FLAC files, yes? 3. Pop the DVD into your drive and fire up Burrrn. 4. Add the FLAC files from your DVD to the Burrrn queue. 5. Pop in a blank CD and hit Go/Start. Easy. EDIT: Forgot to add the link for Burrrn. http://www.burrrn.net/
  22. Happy birthday there, Big Fella! Hope you have a good one.
  23. As noted above, get some better media. CMC Magnetics is garbage.
  24. Happy birthday, ya old fart. It's a shame you're not up this way or I'd be tempted to throw copious amounts of beer at you.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.