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LIGHTNING UK!

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Everything posted by LIGHTNING UK!

  1. Can you post the log instead please? (as per the pink box up the top)
  2. It sounds like you should just be burning the ISO in Write mode. No need to build another disc when one already exists.
  3. There's no reason for any of that to be necessary or be the case at all. You don't close apps down to make the 'write' to your hdd any better / worse and an optical drive is no different. All software does is provide the drive with data and tell it where to put it. After that, it's all handled internally by the drive. I can't force the drive to error out any more than I can increase the burn quality... it just doesn't work like that. Clean the drive with a cleaning disc and/or invest in another drive. You shouldn't have to mess around with anything to produce a working disc... I never do.
  4. Install the current release of ImgBurn and copy ImgBurn.exe over from its program folder (normally C:\Program Files\ImgBurn) to DVDFlick's program folder (replacing the outdated version in there). When you've done that, post a new log please. Can your drive see other discs you put in it? Original CDs (i.e. Audio CDs), original DVDs (i.e. DVD Video discs)
  5. Indeed, you most definitely should have done.
  6. There's nothing the program can do about failed burns. Those problems come from your drive. If you're getting coasters on certain discs, it's because your drive doesn't like them. If it used to be able to burn them ok and you're sure the discs you're using as the same MID / quality, perhaps the drive needs cleaning or replacing? If you post a log of you burning and verifying such a disc, maybe we'll be able to offer additional help.
  7. No, I'm saying you should read up on the xgd3 format and how to burn them on a proper Xbox forum.
  8. You should read an Xbox related forum. These larger images (XGD3) have been around for ages now.
  9. It was probably due to a driver update or something that's misbehaving and that stops processing the I/O. That's why the whole machine gets stuck and can't shut down. Which controller is the drive attached to? Go into Write mode, right click the drive selection box and click 'Family Tree'. Close the message box that pops up and then copy + paste everything from the log window please.
  10. The installer is now powered by OpenCandy (rather bundling the Ask.com toolbar). The OpenCandy advertising platform offers a 3rd party app or two as part of the installation wizard. I have no idea what it'll offer you at any one time, it could change each time you run the installer. Just opt out of anything you don't want.
  11. You're talking about changing the booktype to DVD-ROM... not actually writing DVD-ROM, which of course no drive can as they're 'Read Only'. The drive may do it automatically (many do on DVD+R DL), but you'll have to wait until you've actually burnt (and verified) one fully before you'll be able to find out for sure.
  12. The HP machine is the only one I can comment (and have already commented) on. I would always blame cheap media first. If your drives also fail to burn Verbatim MKM-003-00 media, come back for other ideas on what could be wrong. When your drive reports an error, it's not a 'crash', it's just an error. The default program settings will read the layer break position from the MDS file and burn the disc with it in the right place.
  13. That (well, the first one) has nothing in it to do with actually burning the disc. That aside, you appear to have 2 topics running at the same time and they're talking about the same thing. I've responded to your other one (I may even merge them).
  14. It isn't a DVD Video image, that's why it can't display the layer break info. Your drive is reporting a 'Write Error' when attempting to write to the discs you're using - so it has some sort of problem with them. Ditch the cheapo 'UME' dye discs and buy the decent Verbatim 'MKM' dye ones.
  15. If you post a log (as per the pink box up the top ), I'll be able to tell you.
  16. I can't see why the file would appear on one machine and not the other? Assuming all of the other files in that directory are also present... it must be there too! Of course if it's actually a case of one machine not showing an entire drive, it could be something related to drivers. If you have a bootable image, it either needs to load CDROM drivers so you can access the other content on the disc or you need to include said content within the bootable image itself.
  17. Having an autoplay option doesn't mean it's bootable. In any case, as this is a satnav disc, what's bootable on a PC probably wouldn't apply. I'm sure that image is exactly as it should be, so just load the MDS into Write mode and burn the disc.
  18. Yes. The verbatim MKM mid discs are the best ones available. It isn't a simple case of them working or not working (outright failure as in your case), you get different quality burns too. The better quality the burn, the more readable the discs are and the longer they'll probably stay being readable.
  19. The program isn't the issue here, it's the drive that's failing to do what's being asked of it. 'Invalid Address For Write' is almost always the response a drive gives after the program attempts to retry the write operation. The *first* error is the important one, not that.
  20. Look again, the tabs are on the right side of the screen when you're in Build mode. The Advanced tab is home to the 'restrictions' one where you can tell the program to allow more than 8 directory levels.
  21. The brand makes no difference. It's the disc id (media ID / MID) that's important and yours are the rubbish CMC ones. As I'm not seeing any supported write speeds listed in the log, the firmware may not support that mid at all. That happens when the drive is older than the mid.
  22. http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000
  23. You're trying to burn cheap 'RITEK' discs and your drive doesn't like them. Buy some decent verbatim MKM-003-00 ones as mentioned in the thread I linked you to.
  24. Read the link I pointed you to.
  25. Your friends are wrong. Leave the layer break setting on 'Calculate Optimal' and let the program read the correct value from the .DVD file. That's the way the program is supposed to work. Have a read... http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000
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