LIGHTNING UK!

post the log please

Doesn't it just eventually error out and then let you carry on with the devices that have been successfully initialised? You could load it twice with autoloader support disabled and then enable it in 1 instance.

I’m pretty sure it defaults to formatting without spare areas. So if you do a full erase on your bd-re, it should then burn at full speed. No spare areas = no defect management = full burn speed You don’t need to format bd-r unless you specifically want to enable that defect management feature (by formatting with spare areas).

It could be a result of the issue/error, yes.

From your log file... That's why it took ages to burn. The drive was verifying as it burnt - an internal process and nothing to do with ImgBurn. Formatting discs without spare areas gets around the drive doing that.

Post the log from one of the burns that took a while. Maybe it’ll give us more of a clue.

Try with some better discs. Your drive seems to have a problem with 'RITEKF1' media.

You'll need to provide more info in order for anyone to answer that. How big are the files? What exactly are they? (disc images - ISO files etc or something else) If they're disc images, what do they contain? Basically, 1 disc image = 1 disc. You might be able to extract and then combine the contents of multiple disc images, but it all depends on what's in them. For other types of files, you can add as many files as will fit on the disc using Build mode.

The error is coming from the drive, not the software. Have them try burning at a slower speed. Maybe 'MAX' isn't the way to go. They could also try enabling the 'perform opc before write' option in the settings on the 'Write' tab.

Get yourself some better discs. 'RITEKF1' aren't known for being good quality.

Please read the guides. Also, this is the ImgBurn Support Forum. If you're here, you're asking for help with ImgBurn - so asking 'What software should I use' is somewhat strange.

Don't be sad, be happy.

If your drive works, it works. Ideally, you'd be able to get proper passthrough of all I/O working (if that's even possible), so ImgBurn can see it as the LG drive that it is. You'll soon find out how reliable it is by reading and writing a few 'cheap' 25GB discs. Don't jump straight to the 100GB MDisc ones. ImgBurn marks the UDF file system as readonly and always closes discs when it burns, so you can't add anything to them. UDF 2.5 or 2.6, it doesn't really matter. DVD and BD are always Mode 1. Only CD can be Mode 2. DVD and BD are always SAO/DAO. Only CD can be TAO.

That’s a very old drive... same internals as the lite-on 812S. I doubt it has firmware support for mkm-003-00 does it?! Are any supported write speeds listed in the box on the right when in Write mode with a blank disc in the drive?

All you do is Read the disc using Read mode and then Write the image using Write mode. There's nothing special involved. If you run into issues during the Write (and Verify.... make sure the leave that enabled) phase, post a log please.

It might be worth trying something like the DMA fix from the FAQ. Uninstall the controller from within device manager and reboot so it finds it all again. If you haven’t already tried all that of course

The option in the tools does it there and then... possibly only for dvd, I can’t remember. The program sets the speed again when starting any sort of read/write operation (based on the value in the drop down box from that mode), so the speeds chosen from tools->drive will no longer apply.

I’m pretty sure it uses the speed you set in verify mode.

Having googled it, I’m pretty sure your drive is in recovery mode - from a failed flash attempt. 0L1Z is not a normal firmware version... it’s the recovery / boot code version or something. As for why you can’t flash it with a stock firmware update... well, it’s probably for the same reason it ended up in recovery mode in the first place. You may need to do it in another pc or with different controller settings (ide compatible mode) in the bios. You could also try using binflash from over at the myce forums. Please note, none of this is anything to do with ImgBurn. It merely pointed you in the direction of a website.

@dbminter They seem to, yes.

For dvd, you'd just look at the layer break position and anything beyond that is on L1. Layer jump recording could be a pain to deal with! For BD, as the you're meant to treat them as single layer and there are now disc with 4 layers, it's more complicated. If you know the number of sectors available on each layer, I'd say you add the up until you reach the required lba. It should fill a layer before moving on to the next and there's no way to move the layer breaks like there is on OTP DVD.

There an option in the settings that may or may not help. It's called 'Perform OPC before write' and asks the drive to try and calibrate the laser power based on its own findings of the media in the tray rather than what it thinks should be used for the MID of the disc (hard coded in firmware). Beyond that, I have no clue. There's nothing I can do (even on purpose) to make your drive burn badly, it just doesn't work like that. Again though, this isn't fixing ImgBurn - it hasn't changed or gotten worse. It's a potential work around for something not being quite right with other things. The option makes things worse for some people and better for others. The default is off.

Have you tried the other supported write speeds? If your drive can't produce a readable disc when it burns at 'MAX' (6x), try the remaining supported speeds.

Do yourself a favour and mind your own business. You clearly have no clue about anything and you're talking utter nonsense. Does your hdd stop working when you move (upgrade) between OS's? No, because that's not how they work. Optical drives are the same. The software sends data to the drive, it's down to the drive and its firmware to perform / control the actual writing. That's why firmware updates exists and they usually all say they improve support for xyz media. No software has ever said that (beyond basic support for new media types - CD, DVD, HD DVD, BD) His discs are unreadable because the drive did a bad job of burning them (at 'MAX' speed - which is 12x in this case). A slower speed may produce better results. Perhaps that's what DVDFab is doing by default any why he's saying it takes ages when he uses DVDFab. If fast doesn't work and slow does, use slow.

ImgBurn hasn't changed. It doesn't 'age' or get worse over time. If it used to work, your issue lies elsewhere. Have you tried burning at a slower speed? 'MAX' might not be the best one for you to use.