LIGHTNING UK!

That's normally because I think they're rubbish and only benefit the person making it in the first place.

If you're not using Verbatim 2.4x DVD+R DL (MKM-001-00 dye and and in Singapore), forget about it. http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000

It's entirely up to you. Maybe you can pickup a cheap cleaning disc on ebay or something - and you can use them several times so it might be handy anyway, even if you do end up getting a new drive.

With a cd/dvd cleaning disc. You can buy them in most electrical shops. The only problem is, you can pay

Did you try all 3 of the things under the 'Close' option? Do them one after the other starting at the top ('Track' I believe).

Please write in proper English, save that other crap for your homies. If a drive supports double layer at all then it's most likely to support the very discs you're already using because they've been around for the longest time and are by far the best. As such, I feel your drive is to blame. Try cleaning it or get yourself a new one - yours is probably faulty.

Switch to Build mode and try again. Write mode is just for (disc) Image files.

Delete these: Lower Class Filter: DLACDBHM Lower Class Filter: DRVMCDB Lower Class Filter: AFS2K

Yes, it'll be added one day. Personally I prefer to use different media for such tasks - such as another hdd or usb pen.

When you see this '(This function is for DVD+RW Media not DVD+R)' it's because you're trying to use the booktype command that's NOT meant for LG drives. Look at the names of the tabs in that screenshot of the booktype window, notice they all have names? BenQ, LG, LITE-ON etc Well you can't just use the functions on any of them, it doesn't work like that. You need to use the one specific to your model of drive. With your drive being an HL-DT-ST (LG), you should *ONLY* ever be on the 'LG' tab. It would appear the message on the 'Welcome' tab is the one most appropriate for you - because you do not know what you're doing. If you mess with things you don't understand, things get broken. As has been mentioned several times, ImgBurn automatically sends the command to the drive to booktype DVD+R and DVD+R DL media to DVD-ROM (LG drives don't support bitsetting on DVD+RW media). That fact that the log shows 'BookType: N/A' tells me that your drive doesn't support the booktype commands at all. Get yourself a new drive that does.

Are the Verbs from Singapore? Is this the first one you've had fail recently? If so, just forget about it and burn another one. Try a disc from a new spindle Try cleaning the drive with a cleaning disc Failing all that, buy yourself a new drive.

Go back to a disc that you've burnt and verified ok in the past and see what dye it was, then go online and find somewhere selling discs that use that dye. The dye 'UME01' obvioulsy doesn't work in your drive. To be fair though it's about time you got yourself a new drive, your one isn't even capable of burning onto the DVD+ format discs.

You don't, you use a program designed for that task such as Acronis TrueImage.

You can find out about filter drives on your machine via the Tools menu.

No, it's an optical disc burning util, not a hdd one. Acronis TrueImage is good but it's not free.

Are you on the right tab for booktyping with an LG drive (which is what HD-LT-ST is)? Hint: You're not! btw, you don't need to mess with any of that, ImgBurn booktypes to DVD-ROM automatically on LG drives now.

I don't see that high compression within an image has anything to do with a need to burn at slower speeds. Don't get me wrong, slower DOES normally mean a better quality burn but there's MAX, slower than MAX and then SLoooooooooooooooooow. Somewhere between MAX and Slooooooooooww is just fine - and that's normally 8x or 12x (assuming the use of 16x media. On 8x media you should be ok to use 8x or 'MAX' as it's the same thing!) It's perfectly possible that Sloooooooooow will produce a worse quality burn than MAX will, but it all depends on the drive/firmware/media combo.

It could just be an issue with your drive (or controller drivers / filter drivers) Typically the first 4 bytes for a sector within a vob file would be 00 00 01 BA. According to the log, the drive is returning data that doesn't match that... and is probably just filled with zeroes. (The 'Offset' value (which starts from 0) is always 2 and we can see that it's correctly reading the value '01' from the image file so that's not the problem here) Have you tried making an ISO rather than burning on the fly, burning+verifying the ISO and then if it fails, leaving it an hour before then repeating the verify manually in Verify mode?

Seriously, 2x doesn't exist! If you select anything except 4x or 8x the drive will just semi-ignore the speed I tell it and select the closest one from those 2.

I/O on your machine has got stuck, all you can do is pull the plug. As your drive is only an 8x burner, I would suggest you stick to 8x speed discs. A firmware update might fix the issue you're having at burning those 16x speeds discs at 4x, but then maybe 8x would work just fine without the need for an update. Check with whoever made your laptop to see if any updates are available for the drive.

Buy some discs your drive supports. We recommend Taiyo Yuden or Verbatim.

If it offers you anything to do with a layer break then it's never going to fit on a SL disc If it did, it wouldn't prompt you in the first place.

You can't, ImgBurn always finalises the disc.

When you go to make the ISO or Write a DL disc the program will bring up a screen showing you all the potential positions for a layer break. For this project it's a waste of time burning it to a DL disc, just shrink it by a fraction and it'll go on a single layer disc. You can google for how to do that... think of google as a giant FAQ

An I/O (input/output) error is your drive's way of telling you it doesn't like something... and in this case I'm betting it's the media. RITEK haven't made decent discs for ages now, that's why people always recommend Verbatim / Taiyo Yuden these days.