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LIGHTNING UK!

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Everything posted by LIGHTNING UK!

  1. Well if you're gonna make me update it, you might aswell get the latest base file off the website and translate that one
  2. LIGHTNING UK!

    New Build?

    ImgBurn is always work in progress and I never release anything until I'm at least happy with my side of things - i.e. the implementation. If I start something (which I always do!), I need to finish it before there's a public release. I don't have development tree's, branches, forks or whatever people like to call them, so unless the fix is the first thing I do I can't really just put out a new release. Yes everyone has been waiting for me to finish other bits. I put out a new beta lastnight and so far so good, so maybe (just maybe!) it'll be the last one I need to do.
  3. If it's too big to even fit on a double layer disc then you're going to have to make it smaller - either by removing content, splitting it or compressing it. Take your pick.
  4. This has already been fixed for the next version.
  5. I couldn't make a 64bit version even if I wanted to. The development tools I use simply don't offer it as an option and probably won't for another year or two.
  6. Yes it's better to feed ImgBurn the IFO/VOB/BUP files. That way it has more control over the alignment of Cells when it comes to making a decent layer break point. You ignoring the nicely aligned cell / layer break options has nothing to do with why the verify failed. It failed because your drive produced a bad burn on that media. That happens a lot when you use the cheapo double layer discs and it's why we recommend people buy the Verbatim ones instead. They cost more because they actually work! ECC/VOBU is the fallback method for burning DL content. It breaks the DVD Video specs because they say that the layer break should no occur in the middle of a cell. Some players will just give up at the LB point if that's the case, others will play on regardless. Splitting it properly at a cell will give you a more compatible disc.
  7. Please forgive me for not reinventing the wheel here but as there's no 'Copy' mode within ImgBurn, it's actually a case of performing 2 separate operations - 'Read' and then 'Write' - both of which already have their own guides. 1. Follow the 'How to create an image file from a disc with ImgBurn' guide. http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=6379 2. Follow the 'How to write an image file to a disc with ImgBurn' guide. http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=61 3. Finished
  8. 1. Load ImgBurn. 2. Switch to 'Read' mode... 2a. You can do that via the 'Create image file from disc' button on the 'Ez-Mode Picker' screen. or 2b. Click the 'Mode' menu at the top and then the 'Read' option. 3. Insert the source disc in the drive. 4. Click the 'Browse for a file' button and select a name and location for the destination image file. (Or just accept the one generated by the program) 5. Click the big 'Read' button. 6. Wait a while zzzzz..... Finished!
  9. Thanks, it's now on the site.
  10. You're burning what appears to be a VCD/SVCD. They're multi track images normally and so burning the BIN won't work properly, you need the CUE file.
  11. It had only just got started burning loco, no time to get up to speed
  12. Did you perhaps have 'Test Mode' enabled?
  13. I refer people to the FAQ when they have DMA issues and that's pretty much the only reason. That truely is a FAQ, asking the difference between BIN and ISO has probably just been asked a handful of times. If people need a guide to use Read mode and Write mode (write mode is already covered in there anyway) then they really shouldn't be using the program. It's not designed for 110% 'newbie' users, never has been.
  14. We could fill the FAQ with all the questions / answers in the world, people would still ask anyway.
  15. Update the firmware on your drive. http://www.sonynec-optiarc.eu/en/support-s...-nd-series.html or more directly... http://www.sonynec-optiarc.eu/uploads/zU/L...500A_win21B.zip If it still doesn't work, ditch the discs you're using and get some Verbatim DVD+R DL 2.4x (MKM-001-00) ones instead. EDIT: Damn it, I'm always 10 seconds slow
  16. What does it say for 'Supported Write Speeds' on those discs? You can't force your burner to go any quicker than it's programmed for. Princo ARE junk, they always have been. 48x is clearly on CD's. 20x is the maximum currently available on DVD's and that only on the best media (by default anyway).
  17. Generally speaking, you buy better discs or get a new burner.
  18. It checks the disc is readable... if it fails, there's something wrong with it.
  19. For a single session/track disc ImgBurn will actually cope just fine with the Mode2 format ISO file and no CUE file. Other programs might not though as they expect an ISO to be Mode1/2048. For that disc, it really doesn't matter which extension you give the image, the files would still be identical.
  20. Try slowing the burn down to 8x or something. Even if they are 52x discs, your drive only supports the following speeds on them: 8x, 12x, 16x, 20x, 24x. IMO, Taiyo Yuden make the best CD's, you should give them a try.
  21. No need to cross post.
  22. If it was bog standard it would default to ISO. So something tells me it's not. It's probably recorded using Mode 2 (2352 bytes per sector) rather than Mode 1 (2048 bytes per sector). ISO's are typically (and should really just be) Mode 1, everything else CD related belong be in a BIN/CUE setup.
  23. I understand that editing is often easier but it's probably safer to just rebuild it via build mode.
  24. You've got to try everything until: 1. You've exhausted everything you could do. 2. It actually works!
  25. It's not something that really interest me I'm afraid and I consider it a sideways movement for a burning application rather than a forward one.
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