dbminter

CD burners were more reliable because they only did 3 functions: write CD-R, write CD-RW, and read CD's. Only 1 format, with 2 different flavors. Once DVD burners were introduced, you had to add in read and write capabilities for DVD-R and DVD-RAM. Eventually DVD+R, DVD-RW, and DVD+RW were added. Then, they added DVD-R DL and DVD+R DL, making it even more complicated. Then BD burners added yet another layer of things it did with BD-R, BD-RE, BD-R DL, and BD-RE DL. Then, they added BD-R XL and BD-RE XL. And then they added M-Disc. As you add layers of complexity to what a device can do, the likelihood of it failing one of those components increases by a factor of levels. Media also used to be more reliable because the crap manufacturers hadn't gotten into the business yet. Memorex used to make a great CD-RW when the media was new. Then, CMC came along, and Memorex sold out their CD-RW to them.

Yeah, I have no direct, empirical experience with slim model drives. So, I can't say from actual use of them. I'm just going by the general experience of people who have reported problems here with them. I think I had a Matshita full height DVD-R/RAM drive back in 2002. I ended up replacing it when the dual format model from Sony came out. However, I had no problems with what I used it for. Then again, it was a full height one, too.

The cheap ones can be just as problematic, though, because many are slim model drives. Slim models have a low performance track record in correlation to the posts we see about them on here. Get a full height external drive when you can. Or get a full height internal model and put in in an external drive enclosure. But, if what you have works, stick with it.

Yes, don't go replacing all your hardware as a first step to troubleshooting. Ritek is a common compatibility problem for many users, particularly when using DL media. Personally, I've rarely had any problem with them, except their RiData line, but then I only use Ritek for their 8x DVD+RW, because the only other kinds out there are CMC, and sometimes a few BD-R/E that I don't plan on playing on my PS3. Your first step should be try using Verbatim media and see if you get the same problems. Verbatim is about the best you can get out there, with the fold of Taiyo Yuden. However, don't get the Life Series discs you find in brick and mortar stores or online. Get the DataLife Plus media you can only find online. I get mine from Amazon.com. If you get the Life Series, you will get CMC media, which IS the cheapest media out there.

I'd try playing these discs with software player on a PC. Especially someone else's PC as your drives could be the problem. If they skip back on a PC, which is generally more forgiving than a standalone DVD player, then your drive is probably turning out bad discs. You can also just try testing these discs on someone else's standalone DVD player. If it skips on theirs, you could be more likely to blame your PC burner as turning out bad discs. However, it could be just a case where the other person's DVD player doesn't like that media. So, you can't be really for sure.

I would guess you could always make a .BAT file calling the .EXE with the command line option if you can't get a Project file saved that way.

There used to be an old joke that LG stood for Lucky Good because it was Lucky Good if it worked right. The first LG DVD burner I had was a rebranded drive from IOMega. That thing was wrong out of the box. 50% of the DVD's it burned played back with random skips and pauses on the Playstation 2. That turned me off to LG products for years until I needed a new BD burner and there was an LG one at Best Buy in town. It replaced my LiteOn BD burner that stopped writing BD-RE after 3 months and completely turned me off of LiteOn products. And I think LiteOn no longer makes BD burners, which tells you something. That LG BD burner lasted about a year and then I got a 2nd LG one which lasted about a year. Then I tried a Pioneer. I've had 4 of those. 3 of them performed fairly well, but the last one was borked right out of the box. The only reason I got another LG again was because the latest firmware for Pioneer borks Ritek 8x DVD+RW writes. The LG doesn't. However, the LG has its own issues. It doesn't write BD DL media properly and writes giant floppy formatted BD-RE DL at 1x instead of 2x. And what it does write, the data is corrupt. So, next time, I'm giving Pioneer another shot. I can downgrade the firmware on the Pioneer to the last to the latest revision which does write 8x Ritek DVD+RW correctly.

Sorry, ignore some of what I said, like you rebuilding an entire system. I think I crossed over this thread with another one in my brain.

Yeah, single layer burns rarely are an issue. Although as sure as I said that, last week, I had a SL fail Verify. It must have been a defective DVD-R, though, because I've not had a single failure of them since. Introducing more than 1 layer (1 layer for DVD DL and up to 2 for BD XL) always causes a problem. And the Write/Verify almost always tends to fail at the layer change. Amazon in the US has a good return policy, too. I got an ASUS and they accepted my returns because on 2 different copies of the same model, it did the same thing: destroyed rewritable DVD+RW and BD-RE DL. AV software generally is not an issue with optical burning problems. It can be but rarely is. I just always test it first. Especially since you're using the same software on the PC that doesn't work and the laptop that does, there's no need to test a burn on that. Since you've tried on the same PC where it was failing in Normal Mode and didn't fail in Safe Mode, the safe bet would be it's something that loads in Normal Mode that doesn't in Safe Mode. What I would do at this point is restore my Windows partition to its factory default installation and try again. Without installing anything else other than ImgBurn. However, you have to be relatively comfortable with imaging your PC, restoring images, juggling partitions, etc. It's not for everyone, but if you're comfortable with it, it can help you isolate what it might be. Especially if this drive had worked at some point before, then something is being introduced somewhere by a software installation, or worse a Windows Update, that is causing the problem. Since it seems to be something introduced at the software level, an enclosure might be a good investment to make for testing. If it still fails on a USB channel and it had failed on SATA but didn't fail on SATA in Safe Mode, then there's some kind of layer in there somewhere causing the issue. Something that loads in Normal Mode that doesn't in Safe Mode.

At this point, about the only way you can really test is if the new drive is bad (It's happened. My last Pioneer was borked right out of the box and had to go back to Amazon.com.) is get an enclosure and put the drive in that. If it fails on the enclosure, it could be the drive as USB will be on a different channel than SATA. However, if your issue is a software related one, something that loads in Normal mode that doesn't in Safe mode, it won't matter. And since it worked in Safe mode but doesn't in Normal mode, you can almost all but certainly rule out that the drive itself is the problem. You could also get an enclosure and try it on your laptop. That would prove if it's the drive that's the problem. As for what loads in Normal mode that could be a problem, Windows is so too terribly complex it's almost virtually impossible to troubleshoot what it could be. You said you built an entirely new system from the bottom up, right, including this new drive? Did you reinstall everything before you tested a new burn or did you do a test burn immediately after building the PC and configuring Windows on its first boot? Are you using the same SATA cable you had before with this drive or did you try a different one? Could be the cable, but since it works in Safe Mode and not in Normal Mode, it's most likely not that. As for what I'd try first, I'd try disabling your antivirus software in Normal Mode and try another burn. AV software generally doesn't interfere with anything, but when I come across any kind of problem, the first thing I test is disabling my AV software.

Windows Media Player in Windows 10 doesn't play DVD's. Post the entire log from ImgBurn's burn where you got taht uncorrectable error, please. Uncorrectable errors have nothing to do with incorrect video types. It's a hardware error or media error. Either your drive is dying or it doesn't like that media.

Yeah, one time someone posted a problem with Elements and the problem was fixed by not using Elements. So, that could be your problem. Elements might not have created a proper VIDEO_TS. As long as your TV is PAL, then a PAL DVD should play and that wouldn't be the video problem. Of course, on a PC, that doesn't matter. Windows 10 is probably not returning this error, but some software running in Windows 10 is. Unless you bought the DVD App to play DVD's with as Windows 10 has no native DVD playback software. What DVD player software is returning this error?

Depends on what you're playing this DVD on. You said you're using Windows 10, so I'm guessing you're using some kind of playback software. If that's the case, then it seems VIDEO_TS wasn't authored correctly. If you're not playing this DVD on a PC and it's a standalone physical player, then it could be the video format is wrong for your TV. You're trying to play PAL on NTSC or some kind of variation of that. Or unsupported video type could be it's trying to play a container file that isn't supported. It may be in the OpenDVD folder or VIDEO_TS. Or it could be as I said the VOB's aren't correct in VIDEO_TS so the DVD won't play.

My experience with BD-R has been if you have playback issues of the kind you describe, where video is skipped to different positions, it's your drive being unable to read that kind of media properly. For instance, I discovered the PS3 doesn't like Ritek BD-R after when I tried playing a BD-R of home movies, it skipped over the first title set entirely, which I had set to play before the main menu, and then skip directly to the main menu. When I burned the same image to a Verbatim BD-R, the PS3 played it as it should have, playing the pre-menu title set first and then loading the menu. If you can, you should try playing this disc in another drive or on another computer. Or, as LUK said, try reading the disc to an image and mounting it as a virtual drive. See if you can play it properly that way.

Yeah, if your DVD player doesn't support MP4 container playback, it will return it cannot read that file. As Ch3vron said, you will need to either convert to a VIDEO_TS structure for DVD playback or use some converter software to convert the MP4 into a different container file that your player supports. If your player even supports any container file playback. Older ones don't and not even all newer ones do. For instance, in wasn't until I got a Playstation 3 in 2011 that I had a "DVD player" that supported things like AVI, MP4, MP3, etc.

I installed the madFlac filters and that seems to have done the trick. No crash when importing the original FLAC file that was problematic before. I can't believe I overlooked checking the Guides section!

Ah, I didn't think to check the Guides section to see if there might be a CUE one. That DLL may be several years old, actually. If it was installed by what I think installed it. It seems I can just convert that FLAC to another FLAC to prevent the crashes.

I tried adding a .FLAC created by Windows Media Player, but ImgBurn just crashes trying to load it. The crash dialog opens and asks if I want to send the bug/continue the application. If you continue the application, of course, ImgBurn just continues. I sent a bug report of the first FLAC. However, I tried a 2nd FLAC file and got a little further. I, at least, didn't get a crash and got a listed error. E 21:44:48 ConnectFilters(Source, Sample Grabber) Failed! E 21:44:48 Reason: No combination of intermediate filters could be found to make the connection. E 21:44:48 Hint: You may need to install some additional DirectShow filters in order to support files of this type or the file might be corrupt. Does ImgBurn support FLAC for CUE files? I converted the FLAC that was crashing ImgBurn to MP3 and it imported file. I used the same conversion software, Freemake Audio Converter, to save the file as another FLAC. ImgBurn didn't crash on that new FLAC, but returned the same errors as copied and pasted above. Would installing these DirectShow filters help in this case? How would I do that? Thanks!

Yeah, focus seems to be a persistent issue. For instance, Macrium Reflect is always stealing focus when it finishes a backup. Annoys me. And sometimes focus should be stolen and isn't! For instance, starting with Windows 8, Windows Explorer dialogs for file copying and "errors" or things like files already existing don't steal focus when they should. In fact, they sometimes don't even flash the system tray icon to let you know there's an error!

If your console can play burned games, it doesn't need one. Is it used? If so, then it already came modded, as I doubt Sega would release a system where you could just copy game discs. Although I do believe the Dreamcast came out before CD-R technology was developed. So, maybe it can read CD-R's, although by the same reasoning, if it was developed before CD-R's, it probably couldn't read them. Although the PS2 came out before recordable discs were widely spread and it will play DVD-R movies and CD-R audio discs. Not game discs, though. As for where you'd get a mod chip, good luck in getting one now. Given its age, I doubt you could find any Dreamcast mod hardware anymore. Unfortunately, even if they still made them, I don't know where you'd get them. Plus, you'd have to find someone still knowledgeable working inside one to install it for you.

That's odd. On my setup, it doesn't ALWAYS steal focus when the completion window comes up. It does occasionally but it's more often than not that it doesn't. Focus seems to a weird thing. It's sort of like apps where some versions can remember to keep windows maximized when you maximize them and some versions don't.

I tried searching with Google, but I found multiple solutions. And none of them seemed to work. I tried Unlocker, but that didn't work. The problem is the folder isn't really "there." It's an invalid pointer it seems. Attempting to delete it just returns a generic Windows error code that also applies to things including failed Windows Update updates. I tried the 7Zip solution and that seemed to do the trick.

I accidentally named a folder with a period at the end and now I can't delete it by any means I've tried. I know there's way to do it because I've done it before, but I don't remember how. It's either using the DEL or RD in Command Prompt, probably with a /S for RD. However, I think there were some other kind of arguments to bypass Windows API to properly issue the delete command? Does anyone know what I'm talking about and how to remove this folder? Of course, Windows ALLOWS you to name a folder with a period at the end even though it's NOT allowed! Thanks!

I had an inkling it did. I think I did have a WH14 at one point. Lasted about a year before it stopped writing to DVD+R DL. I think I found it in an actual brick and mortar store at Best Buy in town. About 3 or 4 years ago.

BTW, the LG WH16NS40 supports writing to M-Disc. The WH14NS40 might as well. Look on the front of the tray. The WH16NS40 has the words M-Disc on the left side. I'd guess if the WH14NS40 supported it, as well, it would also say M-Disc on the front of the tray. However, the Pioneer 2209 supports M-Disc but it doesn't say M-Disc on the front of the drive, anywhere.