dbminter

Oh, sorry! I meant to tell you how to open the Log in my last reply and I forgot. Under Help choose ImgBurn Logs. The folder with the .LOG file opens. Actually, it may be easier to just open that folder with the .LOG file and attach the entire .LOG file to a reply here. I'll go through it and see if there's anything I can glean from it. If you have your own way of capturing screenshots, by all means use yours. The CTRL+C is not a screen capture function. It's the common Windows Copy keyboard shortcut. It will just copy all of the text in an ImgBurn error window, if it's the highlighted window, to the Clipboard in Windows. You can then Paste that info into a post. A screenshot is probably better as CTRL+C will only copy the text in the window and possibly not the entirety of the window's contents. I don't recommend slim drives at all. They're generally riddled with issues. I also don't recommend Pioneers for writing to 8x DVD+RW if you can find any because those have been borked in Pioneer firmware for over 10 years and they show no signs of fixing their errors. Since I don't recommend slim drives, what I recommend is a half height internal drive like the WH16NS60 or the ASUS BW-16HT (Recommended.) Blu-Ray burners and put them in a USB 3.0 enclosure from VanTech (Recommended.) or an OWC (Other World Computing) one. However, those are BD burners and you may not require burning to Blu-Ray media. But, I've not used anything but Blu-Ray burners for about 10 years now, so I don't know what's good anymore for just DVD burners.

If you've got a cloud account and want to up this image set to it and let me download it, I'll attempt to burn it on a CD-RW and see what happens on my end.

Could be the multiple Sessions in the image file. I thought ImgBurn was unable to burn images with multiple Sessions. But, that may have been at some point in the past and that is a limitation that no longer applies.

This is completely unexpected. In my 25 years of burning optical discs, I've never seen that before, either in my experience or anyone else's. As I said, it should be impossible, actually. If a burn ejects mid write, it should be impossible to resume. Try opening the Log and see if you can find anything in it that appears at the point when the disc ejects. Or try to copy and paste anything that appears in the Log on your next burn when this happens. Best yet, if a dialog window pops up asking you to insert the disc again, try pressing CTRL+C with the window highlighted and see if you can paste anything from that CTRL+C command into a post here.

Wait, if it ejects in the middle of a burn, you can't just reinsert it and get the burn to finish. An eject in the middle of a burn will leave the disc in an unfinished state. Are you sure it isn't just completing the burn and then ejecting it before the Verify stage? You can tell because if you reinsert the disc when it ejects in the middle of a burn and Verify attempts to start, Verify will fail.

I took a look at the device listed. It appears to be a slim model drive. Slim models cannot automatically reload the disc on eject. This is by the design of slim line drives. Removing that ability saved on manufacturing costs. Plus, this model appears to be a slot drive as opposed to a tray drive, which means it requires human action to insert a disc. It cannot reload a disc even if you wanted it to. The bottom line is with this model drive, you MUST reinsert the disc on eject if you have the option to do so checked. You can try disabling it and see if it works better for you. Under Tools --> Settings --> Device --> Eject Tray After... --> Uncheck the Write box. This should prevent the disc from being ejected after the burn completes. So, Verify should start right away after the burn finishes.

Forgot to mention this. No, you don't use Write Files/Folders to disc to burn Audio CD image files. That just writes whatever files/folders you select to the disc 1:1. Yes, as was said, if they are Audio CD image files, you will need BIN/CUE format files.

It's nearly 20 years old and the shown images may be out of date, but the steps should be relatively the same in this old guide:

This is just a guess, but it could be different metadata causing the different contents. The 2nd ISO's files and contents, though the same, may have different time stamps since those files would have been added later. I don't know if ImgBurn uses the file metadata on the source device or if it creates its own time stamps based on when the files were added to the ISO. Again, this is just a guess, and it's pretty much all I've got on what may be happening here. When you said you compared the file attributes, does that mean the date and time stamps are the same for the files in both ISO's? If they are, then that blows the above theory out of the water, and I've got nothing else.

I know Verbatim used to make inkjet printable CD-RW's but that was years ago. So, I don't know if they still do. They still make inkjet printable DVD-R and DVD+R DL, because I do use those. If I ever got an inkjet printable CD label printer, I'd be future proof. Plus, you can write on them with a marker and not have to worry (Too much.) about the ink leaking through to the data surface. And now I only get the inkjet Verbatim DataLife Plus BD-R. I had some of those already for certain cases where I may want to write a label on them. 90% of my BD-R burns were temporary archive contents, so the branded surface was fine by me. Not anymore, though. I say NO Chinese drives are legit. I once tried to order an LG WH16N60 off of this one web site. The website looked legit even though the price was too good to be true. Had I known the site was Chinese, I would have avoided it. I only ordered from them because Amazon nor anyone else stocked it. What did I get? A cloth COVID face mask for $40 that shipped from China. After speaking with someone in broken English and providing proof they asked me for me the mask they knowingly sent me, the site mysteriously disappeared and the contacts stopped. China either makes junk not worth your paying for or they will actively rip you off. Just look at all the flash drive scams on Amazon.com. Offering ridiculous obvious scams like 16 TB flash drives, which don't exist, for $30. And what you get is hacked firmware that states incorrect free space on a flash drive that's like 32 MB only. So, you don't even get what you wrote to it because the firmware is hacked to overwrite existing data while returning a lie of how much free space is left. Avoid Chinese products and sellers as much as you possibly can.

Generally, "bad" images don't result in bad burns. Meaning, there's very little data in a disc image that can result in a failed burn. Failed burns are the result of media issues, incompatibility between drive and media, or a dying/dead/defective drive. But, if you're curious and want to test it, you can create a new image in ImgBurn with some dummy data and then write that new image to these same CD-RW in the same drive. I would be willing to bet you'd probably get the same failure results, though. I was pretty sure you couldn't find those DataLife Plus Ultra Speed CD-RW anymore. I was just curious if you bought them new. Then, maybe I could, too. I don't think anyone manufactures Ultra Speed CD-RW anymore. Like how no one manufactures 8x DVD+RW anymore.

But, they are two different beasts. Ultra Speed CD-RW are manufactured differently from standard CD-RW. So, even though Mitsubishi made both, they are not the same. And, for whatever reason, your drive is probably not liking one and liking the other. A firmware update would need to be made to fix that, but no one fixes firmware anymore. Firmware updates are only released for Ultra HD BD's anymore and those are only to shore up encryption vulnerabilities to prevent copying Ultra HD BD. NOT to address any performance issues. It also makes sense the standard CD-RW is working but the Ultra Speed one is not. The 2nd writes faster and therefore needs different firmware instructions to accommodate that. As you increase speeds in media, you get compatibility error increases, particularly as a drive gets older. BTW, can you still get those DataLife Plus Ultra Speed Verbatim CD-RW anymore? If you know of where I can get them, I'd be interested to know. I can only find some straggling Memorex Ultra Speed CD-RW on eBay. They're pretty good quality as far as I can tell, particularly for Memorex, which usually uses CMC crap, but apparently farmed out to Mitsubishi for their Ultra Speed CD-RW. At least, I've had no issues with the Memorex Ultra Speed CD-RW. Thanks!

That seems to indicate it's most likely a compatibility issue. Your drive likes the 97m34s23f CD-RW but doesn't like the Mitsubishi CD-RW. Not much you can do if you're dead set on using the Mitsubishi CD-RW except try a different make, model, and manufacturer of burner drive. It's also possible the Mitsubishi disc came defective from the factory or its reached the end of its write cycle life.

You're using the Mitsubishi good media, so it's not that, for a change. My only guess at this point is that your burner doesn't like that particular brand of media. Or the drive may have reached the end of its life or is defective. It's possible a firmware update for that drive might have fixed the incompatibility issue. In Write mode, right click on the drive letter for the target device and choose the last option in the drop down context menu that appears. Should say something like Check for firmware update.

Well, I've never used those other non Verbatim BD-R, but I would be worried about this: I 06:11:10 Destination Media Type: BD-R (Disc ID: CMCMAG-BA5-000) I would never trust any media with CMC in its DID. I would also be worried that your drive is 2 years old. 2 years is a fairly above average lifespan for an optical drive. However, I have gotten 2 years out of Pioneer DVD drives in ages past. One of things I've seen when drives wear out is write speeds being capped at lower rates when the discs are rated for higher speeds. As for no longer trusting Verbatim BD-R, that would have been my posts. That applies to the branded blue and white BD-R discs. The inkjet printable DataLife Plus BD-R are still high quality. However, you're paying an extra premium for the printable surfaces you may never use. I never print on printable surfaces, but they appear to be the only high quality option BD-R out there anymore, so I pay the extra.

Those CD-R tests parallel the CMC Pro DVD-R tests I performed a few years ago. From what I gathered, the CMC Pro TY DVD-R were still of the same high quality that TY used to produce itself. And on par with Verbatim DataLife Plus/AZO DVD-R made by Mitsubishi.

How about I don't supply any more help? I, at least, offered an opinion. Doesn't mean it's right.

It's probably what I suspected before even opening the log. This goes a bit toward explaining it: I 19:54:52 Source Media Type: CD-R (Disc ID: 97m26s66f, CMC Magnetics Corp.) but it does not as readily explain why the Sony disc also failed. However, I have a feeling it's related. CMC Magnetics Corporation makes the absolutely worst discs out there. They are utter trash. You most likely bought the Verbatim Life Series CD-R from a brick and mortar store. The Life Series are junk. Now, Sony isn't as easily dismissed, but, over the past 23 years, Sony has also made little but junk. So, I'd be willing to wager their CD-R are just as much garbage as their BD-R's are. First thing I'd concentrate on is not using the trash media. Get yourself some Verbatim DataLife Plus (NOT the Life Series.) or AZO CD-R. Mitsubishi makes those. Those and Taiyo Yuden were the best out there for decades. Don't know about the state of TY's anymore after CMC Magnetics bought them. CMC Pro DVD-R media is still quality TY discs, though, last I used them.

I think the primary reason flash drives will never be used as physical media for releasing movies is they can't be encrypted like an optical disc drive can. DVD's and Blu-Rays were created from the beginning with hardware encryption baked in. Flash drives came out before the idea to release movies on them. So, like CD's coming before DVD's, when the CD was first released, the idea of even being able to copy them was never conceived of. So, CD's weren't encrypted. Since flash drives had a use for general data before the idea of releasing them as movies was even a possibility, encrypting flash drives at the hardware level wasn't standardized. And even if hardware encryption were introduced, I'd think Hollywood would be deathly afraid to do it. Too easy to copy the contents as a DVD or Blu-Ray from flash drives to other media and, especially, uploaded everywhere. I believe the Sony PSP handheld console had movies released in something I think called the UMD format, which was basically a little flash drive with movies that only played on the PSP. But, that was the closest something like that ever came and that was a Sony proprietary format. I hope those DataLife BD-R DL work out for you! Unfortunately, the "logical" solution which should like it should work doesn't always. Reply back with your experiences with them. I'm curious to see if they're worth investing in. I've not gotten any due to the price, but I would have archive uses for them. I don't do BD movies, but I do lots of data archives to BD-R over the past decade.

I just priced DataLife Plus BD-R DL the other day as I was curious. From Amazon.com, they work out to $2.78 US per disc for 25 of them. Actually, I'm not that surprised no one else has chimed in on this thread. Optical disc burning is pretty much mostly a dead end right now. It's a niche market at best.

Oh, yeah, I didn't think of it in that way. If you have a DVD+R and you want to "convert" it to DVD-R, you can't physically transmute the DVD+R to DVD-R, but you can copy the DVD+R's contents to a DVD-R. Just insert the DVD+R into a drive, use ImgBurn's Read mode to read the DVD+R to an image file, and then use ImgBurn's Write mode to burn that image read in Read mode to a DVD-R.

I figured it might be used to drag and drop files into Build mode. Never thought it might also add the files to Write mode's queue.

Here's your most probable cause: I 13:31:18 Destination Media Type: CD-R (Disc ID: 97m26s66f, CMC Magnetics Corp.) You're probably using the Life Series Verbatim you find in brick and mortar stores. Those are the CMC garbage. CMC Magnetics Corporation makes the worst optical media out there. Unfortunately, they also OWN Verbatim. However, luckily enough, Verbatim does offer a higher quality CD-R and those are the ones you should be using. Look for the DataLife Plus series (NOT Life Series.) aka AZO discs, which you can generally only find in online stores. Those are some of the best out there, as they're actually made by Mitsubishi. Keep in mind, this is not a 100% guaranteed fix, but it is where I'd start first. I don't know why you included a log portion referencing BD-R operations, though...

Question as is in the Title. Thanks!

CMC has a track record of changing manufacturing processes and borking discs. At one point, DataLife Plus DVD-R from Verbatim stopped working with the LG WH16NS60. The solution was to stop using them and switch to CMC Pro discs. Yes, even something with CMC in its name CAN be high quality because CMC Pro discs are not made by CMC. CMC Pro discs are made by Taiyo Yuden, which was the other high quality manufacturer of optical media along with Mitsubishi. CMC Magnetics then bought out TY like they did with Verbatim. Eventually, a firmware update to the NS60 fixed the issue, just reinforcing CMC changed the manufacturing process of the DataLife Plus DVD-R as only a firmware update for the NS60 fixed it. As for tests over time, I went through hundreds of BD-R's burned more than 5 years old over the past few years. All of those were the old Verbatim blue and white branded surface discs burned by ImgBurn in an LG WH16NS60. Every single one I burned still had totally readable contents after 5 years since burn. They were put in one of those CD carrying cases that hold like 320 discs and just stored in the corner of the room where I keep the PC in.