dbminter

Ah, as I thought, you're using a Panasonic DVD video recorder. Ever since the first model released in 2002, it has been impossible for me to image discs made by it with Read mode. Panasonic DVD recorders record in multitrack format. I have such discs going back to 2002 and all require me to use Build mode as I described to make copies of them since they can't be read to image files by ImgBurn. You might be able to use something like DVDShrink, a free program, to make an ISO and use ImgBurn to burn the ISO. I forget, but I think it's possible. You indicate you got past discs made by a Panasonic DVD video recorder to image in the past, but I don't see how it's possible. I've had 5 different models released from 2002 to 2009 and all discs made by all models behaved like you describe where you can't read them to image files in ImgBurn because of the multitrack limitation. I'm still using an older model myself, actually. My first one from 2002, which still works.

I pointed out the log entry hoping it might prompt LUK to remember/say where it might be written on the disc info itself. Whether, as I said, it was just a log entry or if it was actually written to disc.

Yes, I'm pretty sure ImgBurn records which version you're using somewhere in some field when you burn an image to disc. In fact, from my most recent log: I 10:13:18 Image File Application Identifier: IMGBURN V2.x.x.x - THE ULTIMATE IMAGE BURNER! I'm guessing somewhere Image File Application Identifier is written somewhere to the disc instead of just in the image file itself?

BIN shouldn't be used for DVD. Is the DVD less than 1 GB in size? Even then it should be an ISO. I never found out why, but multitrack discs are not supported by ImgBurn for Read mode. Is it a movie DVD? Was it created by a DVD video recorder? Or it could just be how the DVD was authored by the manufacturer. While you can't use Read mode to read a multitrack DVD to an image file, you can still make an image file copy for burning. You'll need Build mode for that. In Build mode, drag and drop all files and folders from the multitrack DVD into a Build job and create an image file that way. While it won't be a "1:1" copy, you'll still have the contents. And if it's a VIDEO_TS folder you're adding from a DVD Video disc, ImgBurn will make the necessary file system changes for DVD Video. Basically, follow this guide Even if it's not a DVD Video disc you're creating, the basic Build mode instructions are relatively the same.

I'm not familiar with mini DVD-R or burning GameCube games. The actual media you use for burning game discs doesn't matter, but the drive you use CAN. I'm not entirely sure if it applies to GameCube games, but I know you need special drives and loaders for XBox games. So you may need a particular type of burner like a LiteOn for GameCube games, though I believe it's XBox games that are so picky.

Do you still have the CD-ROM you already burned? You shouldn't need to burn a 2nd copy because the first one should work. Just follow the install steps I listed for getting the game to install with the disc you already made, if you still have it. If you don't have the CD-ROM you already burned, burn a new copy by following the How to write an image file to disc link here Where it says "If you created the image with ImgBurn, you should be looking for a *.CUE / *.MDS file initially. If you can't locate one of those with the name you're expecting, go for whatever is left! (probably a *.ISO file)" you will want to open the file that has .CUE at the end of its name instead of the .BIN file.

Ah, what you have in that ZIP file (I just snagged it.) is a BIN/CUE file set. That's a CD format image file set, so you will get a CD-ROM when you burn it. In the guide I linked earlier, load the .CUE file instead of a .ISO file. You'll want to load the .CUE file instead of the .BIN file for proper burning. The .BIN file is the actual data and the .CUE file tells how to properly burn the .BIN file to the destination. I did not burn the BIN/CUE file set, but I mounted the BIN as a virtual drive to test with. There is something called Install DirectMedia6, which I've never heard of before. I guess you already chose to try installing DirectX7. Try installing DirectMedia 6. Now, I did notice the game is 18 years old, so I am worried it simply doesn't run on modern Windows. But, it turns out, I got it working. All I did was 1.) choose Install Dino2 from the disc menu. I didn't install DirectMedia6 or DirectX7. After the installer finishes, the installer closes. I ran the installer again and this time Play Dino2 was available, which it wasn't before. And the game does run on Windows 10 1909. So, if you haven't tried it yet, 1.) run the installer from the disc 2.) choose Install Dino2 3.) the installation program closes. Rerun the installer from the disc. 4.) Play Dino2 should be selectable now for you to run the game. If it doesn't, I can't explain it. Of course, I didn't actually burn the BIN/CUE file set. I ran it as a virtual drive from the hard disk.

You'd be surprised at the sheer number of programs that become unusable on Windows simply because of their age. They work on the previous version of Windows then you update to the latest Windows, try to run the old application, and it simply never starts. Plus, when you download something like an old game installer, you never know for sure IF it ever even worked before. Many people just make copies of install discs and post them without testing them. And if they had copy protection mechanisms on them, it would make them worse. If the ZIP file just contains an ISO file, all you need to do is use Write image file to disc and load the ISO for writing. That's the extent of it. What you get afterwards is up for grabs.

How old is this game? It could simply be old enough that it refuses to run on modern versions of Windows.

Try using something other than cheaper DVD media. Try the DataLife Plus/AZO discs made by Verbatim. NOT the Life Series you find in stores. I 17:22:36 Destination Media Type: DVD-R (Disc ID: RITEKG04 01) The above generally indicates a lesser quality brand of recordable DVD. Some might work fine, some might not. That's the nature of cheaper quality media. It's the first thing I'd try. Try using Verbatim DataLife Plus/AZO discs you can only find online. Granted, I've never seen a Possible Bogus Driver error detected before, so it could be something else.

I'm not sure if that's a joke or you're serious. Actually, I thought of something where that may not be an error. It could be a double sided recordable disc. You don't see many of those anymore, but they can probably still be found.

I would avoid the ASUS model. I had 2 of those, I think, and they both did the same thing: destroyed rewritable media! Now, a firmware update in the years since might have resolved that, but I wouldn't know.

Well, I did say it was with a variation.

Interesting. Because, what you just described, with a slight variation, happens on the LG WH16NS40. What drive are you using? As LUK says, there's no difference between the two types of writes, but empirical evidence bears out it does happen. I proved it in my testing experience and it was backed up by someone who originally posted their results and I tried them. On the LG WH16NS40, if you use Build mode to create an ISO and burn the ISO with Write mode, the NS40 WILL fail Verify at the layer change on BD-R/RE DL Verbatim media. BUT, if you use the Write files/folders to disc option to do the writing on the fly, it does Verify. As LUK said and said back then, there's no difference from a technical point of view between the two write methodologies. However, repeated experience from myself and others has borne out that in this weird case, it did make a difference. Go figure.

Extract Boot Image is an executable function that extractesthe boot image from a bootable partition, optical disc, or even a floppy disk. That file that is saved with that function is then put in the Boot Image line to serve as the boot image for the disc you're creating.

There are other solutions, but they're expensive in the long run, too. Replace your DVD burner. Get another one and hope its combination of firmware versus the manufacturer ID of the discs you're using isn't conflicting, which is what is happening in your case. However, there's no guarantee the next drive you get will work. Bottom line is, no, there's really no other viable solution. However, it's also not a 100% guarantee that using DataLife Plus media will be compatible with your drive, too. Oh, another possibility is you're burning an XBox disc. I think only certain LiteOn drives are compatible with burning discs that will work, but I'm not entirely sure it's LiteOns that work.

This is your most likely culprit: I 13:55:19 Destination Media Type: DVD+R DL (Disc ID: CMC MAG-D03-64) Don't use cheap media like CMC MAG discs. Particularly if you want to burn DL media. Verbatim DataLife Plus (NOT the Life Series you find in stores.) is pretty much the only reliable DVD+R DL discs out there. You can only find the DataLife Plus series online in places like Amazon.com and on the Verbatim web store.

Yes, sometimes it's best to power cycle the PC when dealing with optical drive problems. Sometimes cycling the entire PC power clears out the occasional cobweb that causes an issue.

Does Read mode automatically "scan" for drives with available content? I ask because I've noticed sometimes I've left the drive input source on a drive that doesn't have a disc in it, but when I open Read mode, Read mode automatically has loaded a different drive that does have a disc in it. e.g. I'll have left the input source last on K:, an optical drive that I last read something from, but I'll have mounted a disc image to L:, one of my virtual drives, and, when I start ImgBurn in Read mode, it doesn't default to K: but instead to L: and loads its contents. Thanks!

It's probably freezing at the layer break. Dual layer media, generally, is only reliable when Verbatim makes it. At least as far as DVD goes. Although I had no problems with TDK DVD+R DL in the past. Anyway, try Verbatim BD-R 50 and see if that helps. I've had several Pioneer BD drives and, while I've never used BD-R 50 in them, I have used BD-RE 50 many times in them.

Are you saying there's a PRE in front of the file name and not just the file name itself being PRE.ISO and PRE.MDS? Meaning, do you have a PRE File Name.ISO and PRE File Name.MDS? If you don't and have a PRE.ISO and PRE.MDS that file name is most likely generated from the disc label on the disc you're making an image of. If you're saying you have a PRE File Name.ISO and PRE File Name.MDS files, I can't explain where the PRE is coming from.

Open it in ImgBurn like you would an ISO file. Or MDS may be already associated with the ImgBurn software so double clicking on the MDS file might work, too. You say these are software discs you were making ISO's of. What probably happened is ISO could no longer be used for that particular disc and another format was used instead that generated a related MDS file. Are you sure an ISO file was still created? Also, an MDS could be generated, I suppose, for DVD-9 software installation discs to preserve the layer break. I'm not sure.

Or searching for TP for his bunghole? Actually, in this day and age, when people are hoarding TP, it may not be too far off! It was only within the last week that, locally, stores had toilet paper in stock on the shelves. So, I bought 60 rolls!

Wow, cornholio, where have you been?