LIGHTNING UK!

Those logs only show you burning 2 BD-R discs ('PHILIP-R04-000') and they were both written at 'MAX' (i.e. 8x) speed. If the other supported speed don't work either, consider buying different discs. If your drive fails with those too (or just too many others in general), think about investing in a different drive.

No, it doesn't copy anything anywhere.

Only if the freeze is caused by a disc that's so unreadable it causes the drive to error out whilst trying to read (verify) every sector on it.

Rather than burning to disc, make an ISO of the same source files and then mount it in a virtual drive program. Have your playback software play from the virtual drive. If it still freezes, you'll know the source files are to blame.

Try going over the steps in the guide again, I'm sure that 'Split Cell' button will enable itself when you've done what you need to do. Post a screenshot when you think you have done everything and if it still isn't enabled. Only having one cell listed is probably why you're getting the warning, it's certainly not something that would help the situation.

Yes, it would fail for most drives. The only ones I can think of that verify cd-da discs without a problem are LiteOn ones. Their read/write offsets must cancel each other out. I'm not the person to talk to about offsets, search Google if you want to know more.

If your drive can't read the disc properly, there's nothing much you can do about it. Just ensure the disc is clean and free from scratches. You may have more luck reading the disc in another drive - if you have access to one?

Anything that tries to access the drive you're burning from could cause the issue. Mechanical drives aren't good at doing 2 things at once.

Being a good player and being able to read burnt discs are two different things. It's impossible to say if you're getting decent quality burns from your LG drive without testing them in a drive that can scan BD media (i.e. a LiteOn one). If the disc plays ok on your PC, I'd assume there's nothing (much, anyway) wrong with the files you're burning and it must just be the players are having trouble reading the disc. You can access saved logs via the help menu but BD Rebuilder may be saving them elsewhere and therefore the program wouldn't also be writing to its usual log. The size of what you're burning must be something to do with BD Rebuilder or the source files you're working from. You're right though, you're only using just over half of the disc.

There's a "verify" checkbox right under where you select the drive you're burning to. As for verifying at a later date.... Go into Verify mode when you first open the program.

You can't, it always burns a full disc.

You probably have a special version of the drive and it won't accept the normal firmware. Did it come preinstalled in a PC you bought? If so, you'd need to get the firmware direct from whoever built your PC. EDIT: Ah yes, it's a Dell laptop. You'd need Dell firmware but you're already running their latest released version. There's a chance you could crossflash it, ask over at the MyCE / CDFreaks forums. Either way, the drive isn't that old and should have no problem with MKM-003-00 media.

Your drive doesn't appear to like something about those discs. That could either be down to the spindle of discs you're using or your drive in general. So get another ('Made in Singapore') spindle of MKM-003-00 and try those. If they still fail, try cleaning your drive with a cleaning disc and try again. If it still fails, buy another drive.

Have you tried at 4x? You could also try enabling the 'perform opc before write' option.

Put ImgBurn into verify mode, turn off the 'verify against image file option' and then verify it again. Theres no possible way to make a drive read a disc that slowly so I can only assume there was something else interfering with the process - like some other software accessing the drive / disc at the same time. Once you know the sort of speed it's going to verify at (0.1x or 'normal'), you can abort it.

No, that's not normal. Please copy and paste everything from the log window so I can see the burn process and how far it's got with the verify one.

Yes, there's a whole 'pinned' thread dedicated to it at the top of this forum. http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000

The default program settings work just fine (so reset yours) and the program tells you which drive ones you should be using - turn 'Online HT' off again. Don't waste your time by using Safe Mode. If you have to resort to using that, there's an issue with your system.

1. No, leave it on Auto 2. Yes, it's fine... so leave it on DAO/SAO 3. No, leave it on Auto 4. If you have a player that won't play BD Video (AVCHD) from DVDs with the booktype set to DVD-ROM, you'd have to enable the 'Use Normal for BD Video' option. If you're burning to BD discs, that option doesn't apply.

They aren't the decent Verbatim discs. http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000

Simple answer, no.

Why are you using such an old version?!

AWS doesn't mean anything unless you actually configure the AWS feature. If you don't touch it, the program defaults to telling the drive to burn at max speed.

If you put a disc in the drive and switch ImgBurn into 'Write' mode, the disc info text in the box on the right will list the 'MID' (Manufacturer ID). The brand name stamped on the disc doesn't mean anything, it's the MID that's important.

When the drive can't read back what it just wrote like that, it's due to a bad drive/firmware/media combo. Your firmware could be updated to the newer 1.65 but even that is still over 5 years old now. http://www.firmwarehq.com/Sony/DRU-190A/files.html After that you can take your pick of trying a new drive or trying different media. As you've already used different discs and they're unplayable in your standalone, maybe your drive has just had it? There's a lot to be said for using decent discs though and 'CMC' discs aren't usually any good. Which 'write once' discs do you have? What's the 'MID' of them?