LIGHTNING UK!

It's hard to know what you tell you when you're burning media beyond what it was designed to handle. The risk of failure is FAR greater and you can't really blame anyone when it does go wrong. Different batches of discs can perform differently and their country of origin seems to make a difference too - for Verbatim discs, the Singapore ones have long been considered the best of the bunch.

The Pioneer BD drives are good, yes. You'll find lots of good info about BD drives over at the MyCE forum (a.k.a. CDFreaks). If you're looking/happy to buy a new drive anyway, there's even less reason not to attempt a crossflash of your LG.

It'll only make a difference if the drive's buffer underrun protection has to kick in (when the device buffer is empty)... even then it's probably just a spike of 1 or something on a PI/PO graph. Otherwise, once the data is in the device buffer, your system (bar any power supply issues) is out of the equation.

oh damn, ok. I'll have to email you something else instead then. Forum email address ok?

http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=18881

Yes, there's every possibility that the drive doesn't support 'VERBAT-IMe-000' at all / very well. The GBW-H20L was just their way of saving money. Loads of people got the GGW-H20L because it did *everything* I doubt many got the GBW because... a. they felt cheated (not as good as GGW) b. there were other drives around at the time that may have been better/cheaper. It's highly unlikely you'll brick your drive so my advice to you would just be to go for it. I certainly would if I was in your shoes. LG may have given into peer pressure with the GGW firmware updates. You just need enough people to moan

I really need to see a raw dump of the TOC data. Any chance you could install this trace program and capture it for me? ImgBurn itself won't log enough of the data on a 99 track disc. http://www.norocketscience.com/download/SetupTraceSpti.exe You'd just need to install it, enable it for ImgBurn (I think that means adding ImgBurn.exe to it's config file), run it, run ImgBurn and switch to Read mode so it displays the disc info. The close ImgBurn and find the TraceSpti log!

Crossflash to a GGW-H20L and then put the latest YL07 firmware on. http://club.myce.com/f142/lg-blu-ray-crossflash-ggw-h20l-gbw-h20l-be06lu10-be06lu11-260811/ http://www.firmwarehq.com/LG/GGW-H20L/files.html

I was talking about something physically stopping the tray. Like where some cases have a flap over the front that hides the drives and therefore blocks the tray from ejecting fully.

I've seen this happen when the tray is prevented from opening fully as it's cycled between write and verify. It must be some sort of firmware bug.

It's all retrieved from the optical unit... TOC info and Track info. ImgBurn just attempts to put it in plain english. I can't claim to have created the 'lead-out' cue entry myself, no. It's just an unofficial extension I saw another app (IsoBuster I think) using once upon a time.

The data on the disc is exactly what's on your hdd. So if the player has an issue with what's on the disc, either it just can't read it very well or the source files are to blame. I assume you have the latest firmware on your player? Try and play the disc in a proper 'BD capable' software player (not VLC etc). Use a trial/demo of PowerDVD 11 Ultra if you don't have one.

What disc is it? Do you have another drive you can try it in? The TOC info is pretty much just a dump of what the drive has returned.

ImgBurn is out of date. Put the new one on. Your OS's service pack is out of date - put SP3 on. Your firmware is out of date - http://www.firmwarehq.com/Pioneer/DVR-118L/files.html You're using cheapo 'CMC MAG. AM3' media. You're burning at MAX speed. Try one of the slower supported speeds... like 8x.

High errors rates on the disc are what's causing it to fail, not the programs you've got open.

You really don't need to go overboard with that stuff. If the drive is getting the data then the burn quality will not suffer - and even if it doesn't get the data the burn quality doesn't really suffer! If I shut everything down each time I did a burn, I'd spend half my life closing everything down and reopening it again!

AWS means nothing if you haven't configured the Automatic Write Speed feature. It would just burn at MAX speed - which in this case would be 8x. So yes, you have tried burning at 8x. The drive shouldn't really be failing on genuine TY discs, it could have a dirty laser.

Just Google 'merge video_ts'.

Have you tried burning at 8x?

If you're running it under Wine, make sure you've got the 'I/O Interface' option (in the Settings, I/O tab) set to ASPI. If the drive still isn't visible, it's probably the fault of Wine/OsX.

What's on the disc in question? Is it a DVD Video disc? If so, DVDShrink can be used to join them both together I believe. I'm sure you can google for info on how to do it.

You use MCSE - http://ala42.cdfreaks.com/MCSE/

The drive does it... or rather its firmware. It only supports 4x, 6x and 8x on those discs. The only way round it is to hack at the firmware binary using MCSE ( http://ala42.cdfreaks.com/MCSE/ ) and make it swap the write strategy for the Aone MID to another one that supports 2.4x. Then flash the updated binary to the drive. Of course then the 2.4x strategy you've 'borrowed' won't be tailor made for the media you're actually burning to so you might not get optimal results (compared to if LiteOn supported 2.4x officially).

You can't combine double sided discs into a single double layer sized image using ImgBurn. You'd have to copy the files from each side into 2 different folders, merge them into a 3rd folder (using whatever tools you need to depending on the type of content) and then burn the contents of that 3rd folder.

Verbatim's BD-RE DL discs are new out aren't they? You might just have to wait for a firmware update to come out that adds support for them.