LIGHTNING UK!

No, all the errors the drive returns are what you see in the log. That's specific error is one I often see coming from matshita drives, it's not what I'd expect from an asus. I'd just rather it said 'write error' as 'no write current' makes it look like the you've asked the drive a question and it's returning the current status. Obviously it's meant to be in the middle of a write operation, so there's definitely 'write current'.

That's what spare areas do DB, it's not related to certifying the disc during the format - which is performed internally by the drive.

Nothing I've written in the nsis installer script installs anything else, no. Obviously there is a call to a plugin that offers 3rd party software, but I've no reason to believe it'll install anything if you've opted out or not opted in. That's pretty much all you're going to get out of me as that's all there is to say. If you've looked at anything on this forum, hopefully you'll realise for yourself that I stand behind ImgBurn and have supported it to the best of my ability since day one.

Your drive is erroring out around the same position but it's just saying 'no write current' which isn't all that helpful. Are you always performing a test mode burn on new discs before a real one? They're pretty pointless really and I thought the program told you test mode might not even work on BD media. If you've already tried with 'perform opc before write' on and off, that basically all you can do. Try other media.

Retire it. Although you haven't cleaned the lens, it shouldn't need doing if it's only a few months old.

To me, those power calibration error suggest the drive doesn't like the daxon-rx4 mid. I don't think you gave anything to worry about regarding the device buffer. That's just happening because of your other issue.

Unless I'm missing something, 1gb is divisible (exactly) by 64k.

Your drive hasn't burnt that properly. Try some other discs. Always using Sony doesn't meant anything. It's the MID/Disc ID that's important and your drive doesn't appear to like the Ritek ones you're using.

Sorry, no.

When I asked why version 9, I did so because v9 is ancient. I run v10.8 and even that's ancient.

Which chipset does your motherboard use? Is there any reason you've gone for v9 of the IRST driver? Have you tried booting into safe mode to see if it does the same thing? It looks like the OS/drive is blocking one command as the error being returned is not from the drive itself. 'FF FF' means it came from the OS/driver rather than the drive itself. So IRST could be blocking the command or swallowing the actual error and returning its own - which isn't helpful! There's also something weird going on with the subchannel requests/responses. Notice how the first 5 'Buffer' lines have values in them, then they're basically just full of zeroes. The program is asking for info but never receiving it.

Some commands are expected to fail, don't worry about it. What's the actual problem? Are you getting an actual error message?

Where was sequence or scene order mentioned? I'm only browsing on my phone but I've scanned the thread a few times and can see no mention of it before your post Ch3vr0n. John30, What db said is correct. Unless your playback device supports playing m2t files, you'll have to convert it into the proper BD Video format/structure and burn that.

The buffer is allocated via a single call to the 'VirtualAlloc' API function. So that's what's failing and this isn't really a bug, so to speak.

Hard to tell really. If they all fail, try another spindle. If that does the same, it could be the drive. If they don't, it's probably the media.

If you're getting random miscomapres, it's probably because you have a memory issue. Download and run memtest to check for errors. Windows also has its own diagnostics program in it now I seem to remember.

That doesn't even look like an opencandy detection issue. Maybe you clicked an advert rather than going to the download page and picking from the seven listed mirror sites. As such, you may have ended up with just about anything. And why are you downloading it again when you already have it? Have you reformatted?

I've never seen anything that can do that myself. It certainly isn't possible with ImgBurn and is an authoring thing rather than a burning thing.

If you go into Write mode (write image file to disc) and then right click on the drive selection box (with the BD active/selected), you can click on 'Family Tree' and it'll tell you which controller it's on. After that it's just a case of messing around with drivers etc. to find one that makes your system stable.

If they're saying it'll last 1000, I'm sure you could at least expect it to outlive you. So when you're 90, you'll be able to hunt down the last remaining optical drive in existence and pull up all of the ROMs from your mdisc backups.

You ask for my opinion and then just ignore it anyway. I'd do exactly what I've been telling you to do... burn a disc at each speed. I'd probably start with 4x though. It'll mean I don't have to wait so long to check the disc. Please don't think for a second that I know the optimal write speed for every drive/firmware/media combo. I don't.

No. And you aren't going to 'lose' them unless the burn completely fails. If they're readable and supposedly don't deteriorate, you've nothing to worry about.

Neither do I! As I've said time and time again, burn at each speed and scan them for yourself. You can then make your own mind up as to what works best for your drive/firmware/media combo.

Have you only tried burning at 'MAX' speed (6x) with the Pioneer? Maybe try the remaining 2 supported speeds (2x and 4x) to see if it does a better job of burning the discs. If it still can't produce a readable disc at either of those, you'll have to invest in another drive.

The EBK supports BDXL media and the DBK doesn't. So technically, the EBK is superior. The firmware for both drives always seems to come out at the same time and they're both at the same version, so I can't really see media support being better on one than the other - that's to say they each have *some* level of support for the same MIDs. Of course if the optics are different (in order to support BDXL), I guess it's entirely possible the fine tuning for specific MIDs (equalling better burn quality) is better on one than the other. Different drives of the same model can perform differently though, so it's not always easy to judge such things.