LIGHTNING UK!

That'll be the mds file I expect.

If you post the log (as per the pink box up the top), it would help. The default settings for file splitting options should work fine. 'Auto' is default. There are separate ones for Read mode and Build mode.

It's the drive's internal cache. Once the program sends the data to the drive, that's where it ends up. The drive then uses it when it's good and ready. Before burnproof and similar technologies, cache size was important. Bigger cache meant less failures due to buffer underruns. Now, not so much... hence why it's been shrinking in recent years.

Either because you're writing it to a FAT32 drive where the file size limit is then 4GB or you've enabled file splitting in the settings.

The 'perform Opc before write' option in the settings might help. The people over at the myce forums have more experience with different drives and media. There's a thread related to that drive and testing media on it.

There isn't much choice really... pretty much just LG or Pioneer. Just get the current model of either. I'd probably go for the Pioneer.

Try the various supported write speeds. Try some different discs. Clean the drive with a cleaning disc.

You can't (shouldn't) do 3D films via the drag+drop ('Build') method, you must use ISO images ('Read' mode / 'Write' mode). Beyond that, it's impossible to say if your drive is just producing burns that are hard to read back and that's why it freezes at certain points on your standalone. Every machine is different when it comes to the ability to read different discs.

Do bare in mind that different brands can use the same MID / dye. You need to avoid anything using the RITEK-DR2 one.

I sent them those. The proper download link on each of the 3rd party mirrors should download identical files and they're all 100% clean.

As the primary mirror, I very much doubt the real download is anything but what I provided then with. You've probably click on an advert which in turn has given you a dodgy version of ImgBurn's installer.

Before trying different discs (different MID), you could also try enabling the 'perform Opc before write' option in the settings. That may or may not improve things.

Each to their own. If you don't like ImgBurn or the way it does things, you can choose not to use it. The write speed option is right the on the front screen for most program modes. If you're in build mode, it's located on the device tab. There's no reason for it to take ages to burn, the drive controls the write speed and by default, ImgBurn instructs it to burn at max speed. If you post the log of that burn, I'll take a look and see what happened.

Don't ignore ImgBurn, it doesn't lie

See if they'll verify in your other drive. It's either your burner is producing a low quality burn on that MID disc (where it'll be generally unreadable) or it just isn't a good reader.

By default, it should only create the mds file under certain circumstances. Can you post the log of the image creation process so we can see exactly what you're doing please?

Do you actually want the wave files backed up on a cd (as is) or do you want to make audio cds that can be played in any CD player? If the former, use Build mode. If the latter, follow the Audio CD guide in the Guides forum.

Tell Build mode to build an ISO rather than burning directly to disc. That way, you can burn it in write mode and then verify it later with your other drive using verify mode. Of course you also have the option of buying a new drive. You can buy them for about £15 now. ImgBurn and DVD Decrypter can coexist just fine.

You can save an ISO anywhere you want. It won't 'burn' an ISO to such a device because it isn't an optical drive, and that what the program is designed for.

I think you've mistaken my 'signature' for a reply directed at you... it isn't / wasn't. I just need you to post the log (my actual reply to you), so I can see what I'm dealing with.

Post the log please.

Make your own topic... and post the burn + verify log please.

Assuming you haven't messed around with the 'prompt' settings, it wont change the filesystem without asking you first. So if/when it prompts you, just say 'No' and then it'll stay on UDF. Regarding the Windows 10 thing, that's purely cosmetic. That version of ImgBurn predates Windows 10 and the OS reports itself as an older version unless certain things are present in a manifest within the exe.

It was the folder name that gave it away (them being 24 bit) for the one you posted originally You can use something like MediaInfo to bring up the details of a file.

Do you have any non 24 bit flac files to try with? I don't know if madflac just doesn't support 24 bit files or if the filter isn't installed properly at all. If you can find anything to convert the files into 16 bit format, that would be worth a try.