LIGHTNING UK!

ImgBurn's full format process writes zeroes to all the sectors, so if spare areas are enabled, the fastwrite option WILL speed it up (but only on the 2nd part of the format - the zero filling, the 1st is done by the drive itself) If spare areas are disabled then the program should be zeroing those sectors at 2x or whatever without the need for you to enable fastwrite. As mmalves said, the full format only needs to be done once (or if you change the 'spare areas' option). You can see the difference in size by looking at the preferred and maximum format capacities in the disc info on the right.

Unless there's some special header at the start / end of the IMG then it probably doesn't contain the LB position at all. Suggested layer break positions come from the program being able to align the Cell / File so that it starts on an ECC block and the size of L0 >= the size of L1. That's all there is to it.

Passing verify just means it'll play / read ok in the drive you verified in.... I guess it works both ways sometimes. ie. the disc might fail to read back in that drive but will work fine in another drive, or it'll work fine in that drive and fail to read back in another one. A 2x BD-RE with spare areas enabled and fastwrite enabled would probably write at 1.9x - 2.1x. A 2x BD-RE with spare areas enabled and fastwrite disabled would probably write at 0.9x - 1.1x. A 2x BD-RE with spare areas disabled and fastwrite enabled would probably write at 1.9x - 2.1x. A 2x BD-RE with spare areas disabled and fastwrite disabled would probably write at 1.9x - 2.1x. Turning off spare areas is a better approach than turning on FastWrite - of course it does mean repeating the entire format process again though Not only that, with spare areas disabled you get to use more of the disc for actual data.

It depends on if the data is important or not I guess. A miscompare or error on a video is probably no big deal but if I was backing up data, I'd want to know it could be read back afterwards without any errors!

FastWrite should only really matter to BD-RE. Your BD-R should always burn at their rated speed. To be honest, it's not ideal having it switched on as technically it's writing in 'streaming' mode (where data can be skipped if the drive can't keep up). With streaming enabled you really need to be using ImgBurn's verify after burn feature. You'd be better off formatting the BD-RE without spare areas (another option in the settings!) which basically disables the drive from doing Write + Verify for every Write command I send it too... only this time it's because without the spare areas there's no room for the drive to automatically reallocate damaged sectors to and hence it doesn't bother with its own internal verification part.

No reason really, it just makes it more obvious when it's stuck doing that for a while - i.e. in the case of bad discs that the drive cannot reinitialise. It's less important now that ImgBurn automatically cycles the tray and brings up other messages when there's a problem in this area.

Turn on file extensions within explorer, it makes life much easier!

You can look in the recent files list too, just right click the 'browse' button when you're in read mode - that or look on the 'File' menu.

It'll either be in the root of your hdd or it'll be in your Documents folder. You could always check the log file (via the Help menu) and see where you put it.

The buffer thing is nothing to do with the disc, it's to do with the speed of your system/hdd and it not being able to supply data quickly enough for burning at 2.4x. Maybe you opened a program that's quite hdd intensive and ImgBurn's buffer was starved of data. Update to 2.4.2.0 and make the buffer 40MB instead of 20MB (if it doesn't default to that already).

Are you sure they're 100% identical to ones that worked? Being the same 'brand' doesn't mean anything. You have to pay attention to the dye being used - and in your case it's 'CMC MAG-D03-64'.

ImgBurn is just a burning program, it doesn't convert video files. If you have an mpg / avi file you'll need to use something like DVD Flick or ConvertXtoDVD to make it into DVD Video format.

More junk media. Read this: http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000

It does make me chuckle when people get all irate after they've skimped on buying decent media and end up with discs that don't work - which they then blame on the software, something that has no control at all over the burn quality.

Try again but just before you press the 'write' button, press the F8 key. Then once it's errored out, accept the error and then press F8 again. Now save the log via File -> Save As in the log window and attach that one please.

ImgBurn will have sent the command to do it, yes.

Correct, they're junk. As with most things optical disc related these days, Verbatim ones are the best and they work just fine in my own H20L.

wonderful nvidia drivers at work again They introduce bogus errors, revert to a previous set if possible.

But you've just burn the disc, no? Therefore the drive will be hot. The verify code after the burn is exactly the same thing that runs when you do it manually so corruption is getting in somewhere, you just need to figure out where. Examine the problem sectors at a later date and see which is correct... either the disc one or the hdd one. It'll give you a starting point.

Maybe it's heat combined with bad error correction or something. Can you use PlexTools / PlexUtilities with that drive and do a PI/PE scan on the disc? Stick to the MKM-001-00 discs where possible, they just work better in more drives than their big brothers do.

Is your drive attached to an nvidia controller by any chance?

Clearly there's still something very wrong with your setup, there shouldn't be any retries or errors during a burn.

If there's no setting in the bios to change the mode of the controller then you're probably out of luck. Maybe that ULI one is *always* going to be in RAID mode, in which case just buy the

The content of what you're burning shouldn't matter at all, it's not like the drive understands what you're burning, it's all just a bunch of 1's and 0's!

You can't 'solve' it because there's no real solution. Burning errors are a result of bad drive/media/firmware combo. To fix them you need to change one of those 3 things, there's no magical software fix for what it essentially a hardware problem.