LIGHTNING UK!

You can look in the recent files list too, just right click the 'browse' button when you're in read mode - that or look on the 'File' menu.

It'll either be in the root of your hdd or it'll be in your Documents folder. You could always check the log file (via the Help menu) and see where you put it.

The buffer thing is nothing to do with the disc, it's to do with the speed of your system/hdd and it not being able to supply data quickly enough for burning at 2.4x. Maybe you opened a program that's quite hdd intensive and ImgBurn's buffer was starved of data. Update to 2.4.2.0 and make the buffer 40MB instead of 20MB (if it doesn't default to that already).

Are you sure they're 100% identical to ones that worked? Being the same 'brand' doesn't mean anything. You have to pay attention to the dye being used - and in your case it's 'CMC MAG-D03-64'.

ImgBurn is just a burning program, it doesn't convert video files. If you have an mpg / avi file you'll need to use something like DVD Flick or ConvertXtoDVD to make it into DVD Video format.

More junk media. Read this: http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000

It does make me chuckle when people get all irate after they've skimped on buying decent media and end up with discs that don't work - which they then blame on the software, something that has no control at all over the burn quality.

Try again but just before you press the 'write' button, press the F8 key. Then once it's errored out, accept the error and then press F8 again. Now save the log via File -> Save As in the log window and attach that one please.

ImgBurn will have sent the command to do it, yes.

Correct, they're junk. As with most things optical disc related these days, Verbatim ones are the best and they work just fine in my own H20L.

wonderful nvidia drivers at work again They introduce bogus errors, revert to a previous set if possible.

But you've just burn the disc, no? Therefore the drive will be hot. The verify code after the burn is exactly the same thing that runs when you do it manually so corruption is getting in somewhere, you just need to figure out where. Examine the problem sectors at a later date and see which is correct... either the disc one or the hdd one. It'll give you a starting point.

Maybe it's heat combined with bad error correction or something. Can you use PlexTools / PlexUtilities with that drive and do a PI/PE scan on the disc? Stick to the MKM-001-00 discs where possible, they just work better in more drives than their big brothers do.

Is your drive attached to an nvidia controller by any chance?

Clearly there's still something very wrong with your setup, there shouldn't be any retries or errors during a burn.

If there's no setting in the bios to change the mode of the controller then you're probably out of luck. Maybe that ULI one is *always* going to be in RAID mode, in which case just buy the

The content of what you're burning shouldn't matter at all, it's not like the drive understands what you're burning, it's all just a bunch of 1's and 0's!

You can't 'solve' it because there's no real solution. Burning errors are a result of bad drive/media/firmware combo. To fix them you need to change one of those 3 things, there's no magical software fix for what it essentially a hardware problem.

Install the latest Intel chipset drivers from here: http://www.intel.com/support/chipsets/inf/ Install that, reboot and then go into device manager and open up the IDE/Atapi branch and remove the 'controller' entries, then reboot again. If your controller is in AHCI mode, make sure you have the latest Intel Matrix drivers installed from here: http://support.intel.com/support/chipsets/imsm/

The quick erase just writes zeroes to the first 800 sectors or so... that's why it's fast

Are you using the latest beta version? v5.4.1.3 or something Lots of people use it without any problems.

ImgBurn doesn't do what you're trying to do. Use a proper backup tool, file splitting isn't what you want it to be.

A full format takes ages. The drive has its own formatting process that takes a couple of hours, then ImgBurn writes zeroes to every sector. That part will take longer if you don't have fast write enabled as you'll be stuck at 1x or something instead of 2x. So all in all, it'll take about 3 - 4 hours.

It would appear your drive is resetting itself or the drivers are issuing a bus reset, I've no idea why that would be happening. Which controller is your drive attached to?

You need to at least try some different discs - try some Verbatim DVD+R's. Yours could be fake or a bad batch.