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LIGHTNING UK!

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Everything posted by LIGHTNING UK!

  1. pm me the details of the change request (you new email address) and I'll look into it.
  2. Your laptop doesn't have a DVD burner, it can only burn CDs.
  3. Forget scanning at max speed, you'll never get an accurate result like that. It's always been said that LiteOn's should use 4x, BenQ's should use 8x. Maybe newer LiteOns might be ok at 8x but I still prefer 4x myself. It would be nice to see jitter levels too but you need CDSpeed for that because DVDInfoPro doesn't appear to support it - or at least not the version you're running. To be honest I can't really see a lot between the two scans. You've got a PIF spike/clump at the start of 2nd layer (where you say it's jumping on your xbox) but it's there on both and so probably doesn't mean much.
  4. 'Complete' is wrong and your drive shouldn't be reporting that. Have a hunt around the web and update to the BYS3 firmware. http://dhc014.rpc1.org/indexOEM.htm#DW-D22A
  5. Yup, so far as I can remember!
  6. I know how to make it so only a single instance can be run, I've used that before elsewhere - but that's about 10% of the problem. You could also be doing something else at the time (i.e. burning) and so loading images in existing instances is just annoying and prone to causing problems. Sorry, it's just too messy for my liking and doesn't really add all that much to the program as a whole.
  7. Do you verify your burns? Maybe your old players just don't like burnt DL discs at all? Have you ever had/used any that work? It doesn't matter if you go via an image file or burn directly to the drive. Going to the drive directly is obviously just a bit quicker and saves the intermediate step.
  8. I'm not really sure how to do that to be honest. I think I have to prevent the 2nd instance from running fully and instead just search for another instance, pass some custom windows message to it and then shut down. Remembering that ImgBurn has lots of 'modes' and only Write mode would be suitable for this, it seems a bit hit and miss. So basically, sorry but it's not something I'll be doing any time soon. If you want to queue up extra images to an existing instance, drag and drop them into the Write mode source box. For future reference, if I don't reply to a suggestion I'm usually not interested in it / it's something I've already done / it's something that's been talked about on several occassions.
  9. Doh, two threads! *closed*
  10. It's automatic for samsung drives (assuming they support it full stop). Your one appears to support it.
  11. Nope, if you tried that (at my level of working), the write command would just error out saying the disc hasn't been formatted. At user level though, it's up to the program to decided if they want the user to know what's going on.
  12. Sometimes 4x does produce a better burn than 2.4x, it all depends on what the drive's firmware is optimised for. So go back to using 4x. btw, in dvdinfopro, set the 'PIE Scale' / 'PIF Scale' / 'Jitter Scale' dropdown boxes to 'Auto', set the 'Show PIE' / 'Show PIF' options to 'Block', then set the 'Speed' one to 4x. The graphs will be a lot nicer looking then.
  13. It really does sounds as if it's just died on you. (btw, DVD+RW need formatting when they're new) You can get new drives for under £20 now and I doubt that's much more than you just paid for your DVD+RW's!
  14. It looks like your drive has broken then.
  15. I'd try 4x, failing that, clean the drive and try again. Failing that consider the drive faulty and get yourself a replacement / buy a new one.
  16. Buy a player that supports PAL format discs or run them through a conversion tool. This isn't something you use ImgBurn for so your best bet is to Google for more information.
  17. Right click the ISO and you'll get 'Burn with ImgBurn'. You won't get it if you right click on the drive. (You also need to have opened / closed the program once since reinstallation)
  18. For some reason, the 'full text' search method doesn't pick up any results for mcc-004-00 etc but the 'manual' one does - so I've changed it to use manual now.
  19. You can't erase it because your drive only supports DVD+R / +RW discs. Now is probably good time to invest in a new multiformat burner.
  20. Your drive doesn't appear to support the DVD-RW's you're using and of course burning to CD is failing because the image is DVD sized and therefore FAR too big for a CD. Try posting the FULL log from when you try and write to a DVD-RW. (and by FULL, I mean FULL)
  21. I see a lot of people doing this and I'd try to prevent them being silly if only I knew exactly HOW they were doing it. If you just add an image file to the source box in Build mode, it should warn you that you're potentially not using ImgBurn correctly and should switch to Write mode.
  22. Have you actually tried reading the disc off using Read mode? It's not rocket science, just load the program, select 'Read' mode from the 'Mode' menu are the top, put your disc in the drive and hit the big 'Read' button down the bottom left of the main ImgBurn window. That'll read it to an image file on your hard drive. Then follow the guide in the Guides section to write the image file back to disc.
  23. ImgBurn doesn't read copy protected discs.
  24. Gimme a little credit, please!
  25. It just applies to DVD Video. There's no list of players that support it, you just have to try it and see I'm afraid. The option in the settings is there to save people who use the option all the time from clicking it on the actual 'layer break' window. As a one off test, there's no need to touch the one in the settings at all.
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