dbminter

Well, AZO discs are essentially the same as MCC's.

Then, this might be more to your wants. Although I've owned one, I didn't put it through heavy tests: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BY4PZLE/?coliid=I2H5WHEN45R5HS&colid=N0MFH3F0SXRP&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it It was also mostly for DVD and CD reading. I get an internal slim BD included with my Dells, even though I mostly rely on external USB BD half height drives for most of my disc needs.

BTW, if it helps, you might want to consider the kind of slim model BD burner I got as a reader: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0785GPTX3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's a rebadged Pioneer. I've not tested it thoroughly to see if works well as a writer, but I've got MCC DVD-R I can test it with. Next time I need to burn a DVD-R, which should be within the next few days, I'll try to remember to test it out on this Pioneer. If it works, you might want to try getting one yourself. Of course, it is over $100, so if you don't need BD burning, then paying that much for it might be overkill.

USB SSD's are getting larger, but they're still relatively small compared to what you can get in a mechanical USB HDD. I just recently upgraded my 14 TB model to 18, which the current consumer level cap. And I believe SSD's may currently be capped at 2 TB and they're not as value priced per GB when compared to USB HDD's. Still, for anything you want to transport, I'd use a USB SSD because you generally don't need to move large amounts of files. And the SSD will be faster writing by a significant factor. I have 2 1 TB Samsung T5 USB SSD's, 2 500 GB T5's, and 1 500 GB WD My Passport USB SSD. I also have a 5 TB My Passport USB HDD because I needed something portable and with a capacity enough to store multiple disk images. I also have multiple 512 and 256 GB thumb drives which I used to use before migrating to USB SSD's.

My PC is a Dell XPS 8930 desktop. It just happened to be Windows 11 compliant, so I was able to upgrade its Windows 10 Home. I get my Dell's from their web site so I can customize the hardware. I never migrate anything with any kind of automated software. I prefer to do it all myself. Software settings are stored all over the Registry so just moving things from one PC to another doesn't work. Laplink may just migrate simple things like Documents, though. I don't store any user files in Documents, preferring my own locations on USB HDD's. This keeps the Windows partition smaller and thus my daily backups smaller and quicker. So, I don't have much to migrate. And I prefer to reinstall everything on a new PC. That way, I can find out what installs and doesn't, as there usually is something that won't work right, on a different PC. I also have a lot of portable applications so I can just point shortcuts to them on my USB HDD's. And my e-mail and web browser clients have options to load profiles from alternate locations, so I just install them and point them to the profile folders I have on my USB HDD's. I generally don't buy extended warranties. It rarely bites me in the ass, but 2 years ago, it did. Half a year after the warranty expired on my previous 8930, it required replacing. It's the only time I never bought an extended PC warranty that I ever had the need to take advantage of one. Extended warranties are generally a waste of money. Most repairs when needed will generally be within the warranty if a repair is required. And most PC's last longer than extended warranties, but as I showed in my case, it's not always the case. So, it's up to the user if they want to invest the money in an extended warranty.

TSST is short for Toshiba Samsung Storage Technology. It's an ID string that appears in the "names" of things like Toshiba/Samsung hard drives and optical disc burners. It's common for Toshiba/Samsung optical disc burners to "identify" themselves to the OS as "names" with TSST in them.

The SU208 is a Toshiba or Samsung model. I've no experience with those, although I believe TSST is Toshiba and the SU208 might be a TSST model. TSST models tend to be somewhat iffy in terms of reports I've seen from users with issues with those on here. However, you seemed to have no problems.

Yeah, I was just going to suggest that it sounds like you're burning on the fly instead of creating an ISO first. If you do the latter, any files in use will prevent the creation of the ISO file from proceeding. That way, you won't waste discs. If the ISO creation completes, then you can write the ISO file to a disc.

Sorry, yeah, I meant the old laptop where you were getting successful burns before. Since it was in a laptop, it, too, would be a slim model drive, but it may have been one of the better models. Unfortunately, of course, that description doesn't help much in identifying what model was in your old laptop.

But, no info on the optical disc burner installed in the laptop?

Not all slim models are trash. Generally, Pioneer is good slim models, but I don't know about yours, so I can't explain your results. The slim burner in your old laptop may have been one of the better models. Do you remember what model was in your laptop? For instance, the LG BU40N BD burner appears to be a good slim one. I haven't thoroughly tested the one in my desktop tower, but it's passed what tests I have thrown at it before.

Going over all the log, I've compiled a few relevant things that I think lead to the problem. You're failing even on fine quality MCC discs from Verbatim/Mitsubishi. You're failing on 2 different drives, but there's one thing in common with both of them. They're both slim drives. Slim drives are generally trash. So, I'd lay the blame on the use of slim drives. Try half height drives. I would be willing to bet the AZO discs will fail, too. You were failing on quality MCC, quality MKM DVD+R DL from Verbatim/Mitsubishi, and a ProDisc which is trash to begin with. One thing. Is your USB Pioneer connected by USB 3.x? If it's USB 2.x, connect it by USB 3.x. BD burners that are USB need USB 3.x connections or they will probably error out.

Well, I don't know if I'm a legend. Although 7.7 thousand posts means I do my fair share.

If it plays from a VIDEO_TS folder on your hard drive, but not from a disc you insert in your PC's optical drive, it could be the disc contents simply aren't being recognized as something that can play. This would be the fault of your drive or the discs you're using, not ImgBurn. For instance, CMC media, the cheapest stuff out there, will often times complete burns and verifies with no errors, but their read compatibility with DVD players is so poor the device does not recognize anything is inserted. In your case, post a Log from a disc that doesn't play and we can go from there. In the meantime, insert a disc that doesn't play in a PC drive and open its root directory contents in File Explorer. Make sure VIDEO_TS is in the root directory. In VIDEO_TS, make sure there's a VIDEO_TS.IFO file. Try double clicking on it or loading it in your preferred DVD playback software and see if it plays.

A few things. I've never heard of an LG SP60NB50 before. The most likely reason you're getting failures is 2 fold. First, it's a slim model and most slim models are trash. Also, I've never heard of this Wihool who made the drive you're using, so it's most likely, given its name, Chinese junk. I would recommend you get an internal half height BD burner and put it in an enclosure. I recommend the LG WH16NS60 in a VanTech USB 3.0 enclosure. That combination is the best of what is unfortunately a bad situation in terms of the available choices. It handles everything I throw at it, though I've never tried BD-R DL or higher before. Just BD-RE DL. Also, LG's aren't the best readers, so you will encounter the odd disc the NS60 can't read. Which is why I got a Verbatim USB BD burner off of Amazon.com. I've not tested its write capabilities. I only use it for reading. You may be tempted to get the LG WH16NS40 because it's cheaper and you may not need Ultra HD BD 4k capability. Don't. The NS40 does not properly write to BD DL media. You may be tempted to get a USB 2.x enclosure for the NS60 because it's cheaper. Don't. BD drives need USB 3.x speed to properly maintain communication speed with the drive.

There could be a variety of factors here. It's hard to isolate any one. The cheapest and easiest step to try next is using the higher quality Verbatim discs. Another thing with cheaper quality media is there's little consistency with what you get. Sometimes, you have no problems using them. Sometimes, you'll get a package where half work and half don't. Sometimes you get an entire package that doesn't. So, you may have simply been "lucky" in that you didn't encounter any problems before now. Or it could be indicative of a burner that needs replacing. If you've had a string of successes with the same media on the same burner, that could be an indicator. Welcome to the wonderfully frustrating world of optical disc burning! I've been doing it for over 20 years, going back to the early days when there were only CD-R's. So, yes, it's not an easy ride.

Were you always using these same Ritek DVD+R? Plus, software ISO's are generally smaller than DVD ones, so you may simply not have burned enough data to a disc to get to a point where an error might have occurred. Your log above indicates your read failed at about halfway through the total write capacity of the DVD+R. Anyway, I'd first start with the high quality Verbatim. You generally can't go wrong using the higher quality stuff over the lower, so it will a better investment in the long wrong. And, it could be another issue. Like your DVD burner may need replacing.

This could be your problem: I 20:12:59 Destination Media Type: DVD+R (Disc ID: RITEK-F16-01) Your DVD+R was made by Ritek. Ritek is a decent 2nd tier manufacturer of optical discs, but in some parts of the world, Ritek media is pretty much junk. Ritek has been known to be problematic with some burners. My first recommendation would be to try changing your discs to some of the good stuff made by Verbatim. You will want to get the stuff that says DataLife Plus (NOT the Life Series you find in brick and mortar stores. They are the WORST out there.) or AZO dye on it and you will generally only find that in online stores like Amazon.com. Most of the problems we see on this board are caused by cheaper media and most problems generally go away when people switch to the higher quality Verbatim stuff. Or "genuine" Taiyo Yuden discs.

That doesn't appear to be an ImgBurn log. That appears to be the log from the authoring application that created the DVD Video VIDEO_TS. We need to see the log from the failed burn in ImgBurn.

I should have been clearer. You can write an AUTORUN.INF file to a disc, but when you insert the disc in Windows 10, I don't think it will automatically run the AUTORUN.INF file anymore upon insertion. You can double click on the file and it will run, but I think Windows 10 abandoned native automatic running or AUTORUN.INF upon insertion of a disc.

Advanced Quiet Drive would result in a constant slower speed. Not a sudden drop of 4 magnitude. Did you try performing other manual Verifies on this disc? Do they all suddenly drop to 2x? A sudden drop to something like 2x could be a fluke. On LG DVD burning, if a burn is interrupted on BD due to disk activity, when it resumes, it will be maximum 6x, even if the previous speed before the disk activity was higher. To get back to your original concern, I wouldn't be worried about it in this case. While it is annoying to get slower speeds like that, at least there were no read errors. Were there any Retries?

At some point in Windows's development cycle, AUTORUN.INF pretty much was abandoned.

I don't remember the exact context, but I recall asking if Layer 2 would be read with increasing speed since Layer 1 was read with decreasing speed, and then Layer 3 would be read with decreasing speed. And I believe you said that was the case. Maybe I'm wrong.

Depends on what you're trying to do. .ISO implies you already have an ISO of a DVD Video disc which will play on a DVD player. That's a different methodology than creating a VIDEO_TS, which ImgBurn can't do. I can provide tutorials for burning ISO's, but there are many ways to create a VIDEO_TS. I use paid software, so unless you have a license for what I use, I couldn't tell you how to do it any other way than I know how. What ImgBurn can do is create a DVD Video disc ISO with a VIDEO_TS, but it cannot create a DVD Video compliant VIDEO_TS for you.

Well, even if you created an ISO, you just wrote MP4 to ISO then burned that ISO to disc which effectively wrote that MP4 to disc. Without any conversion, the only way your DVD player could have played the MP4's is if it natively supports playback of MP4. Unless you used something to create a VIDEO_TS from the MP4, the only way your DVD player could have played the MP4's is if it natively supports MP4. Maybe a screen shot of the root directory in File Explorer of one of these DVD's that plays on your DVD player would better explain to me what's going on.