dbminter

As for files, I don't think there's a filter option available. For folders, about all you can do is what you'd have to do with files. You add the root directory and then manually delete the folders you don't want from the root. And, with files, you'd add all the files and manually delete the ones you don't want. You can do all of that in Build mode. No need to mount/edit the ISO.

Hm, maybe this upcoming Windows 10 Windows Update might address this issue: https://www.pcworld.com/article/3616968/microsoft-is-finally-fixing-windows-most-annoying-multi-monitor-bug.html

I've burned several of those CMCPro discs and watched a few and I've had no playback issues with them. So, these CMCPro TYG03 appear to be the same high quality discs Taiyo Yuden used to make themselves.

I would have done the Virtual CloneDrive thing first as that's my go to application for mounting images. I didn't think about using just one VCD drive and mounting the different ISO's to the same drive each time a disc was called for. That was good thinking. Glad it worked!

If by remove the device you mean deleting its entry in Device Manager, no, I didn't try that. Didn't think of that. I did try removing the USB cable from the port on the PC, turning the device back on, and reinserting the cable; that didn't work. In about a month or 2, I intend on trying an ASUS BD again. This could be a chance to try out this Device Manager/Ghostbuster tip. I have to question whether this Device Manager deletion would matter, though. The device is recognized on rebooting the PC, which leads me to believe it wouldn't be a ghost device issue.

Well, if you've tried many other software besides ImgBurn, then the problem is either the disc itself or the drive you've been trying to read it in.

I've no personal experience with Arita recordable discs, but my memory of past posts on the board is that they were cheap quality media. It probably has nothing to do with rot as it probably started going bad long before disc rot would have been factored in. Cheaper media just gets parts where it can't be read anymore over time. Sometimes, the entire disc is not recognized by a drive. I began a project to convert all my non MCC and TY discs, which are the quality stuff, to TY discs. I came across two MXL GR03 DVD's recorded in like 2003. One was fully readable, but one had data on it that couldn't be read, yet the rest could. I've learned a few things. For instance, Ritek DVD-R have lasted almost 19 years. Lead Data DVD-R as well, but VIVASTAR and those MXL GR03 had read issues after roughly the same amount of time.

One thing that may or may not work. Copy all the installer files and folders from the DVD's/from the ISO's to a single folder somewhere else. Do not choose to replace existing files. Then try running the install/setup executable from this copied to folder. As I said, this may or may not work. If that doesn't work, another thing to try is copying the ISO's of these DVD's (You may have to make those yourself.) to a temporary location. When the installer asks to insert Disc 2, etc. mount the ISO natively as a virtual drive in File Explorer. This is usually done by just double clicking the ISO, unless ISO is assigned to something else. Then, when you're asked to insert Disk 2, etc., just point the installer to the virtual drive. You can tell the drive letter by checking in File Explorer for new disks. Alternatively, you could install a virtual drive software like Virtual CloneDrive, create 3 virtual drives, and mount all 3 ISO's copied somewhere else as their own individual virtual drive. Then, when the installer asks you to insert Disc 2, etc. just point the installer to the virtual drive for Disc 2, etc.

Like I said, it may not work. Your drive appears to be an OEM like mine, so you'd need to find a firmware update from the site that made it. Which is apparently this Archgon entity. The bottom line, though, is generally, for whatever reason, very few companies ever release firmware updates for external drives, even when the actual drive inside the enclosure is just one that a firmware update is available for when used internally or put in an external enclosure. My guess is they do this to force people to buy new ones all the time when the firmware is updated, even though firmware updates SHOULD be part of the general manufacturer maintenance of the device. The only other thing is to try a different external burner, preferably not a slim model one. The USB LG I noted is a half height external model. What I use is the LG WH16NS60 half height internal model and put it in a VanTech USB enclosure. However, with VanTech you have to thoroughly test it because it's Chinese made and you get 50/50 junk or usable. If you're going to use a BD burner, you must use a USB 3.0 enclosure. USB 2.x won't be fast enough. And as far as I know, there are only 2 USB 3.0 enclosures. The VanTech I already mentioned and the Other World Computing model. However, the OWC one has a fatal flaw. If you power off the device or it loses contact due to erroring out, you MUST restart Windows before it will recognize the drive is connected again. Powering it off and on won't do the trick and neither will disconnecting and reconnecting the USB cable. OWC's is easier to put drives into than the VanTech, though. I went with the VanTech because I wanted something I didn't always have to restart Windows to get recognized.

Your drive is actually an LG. Although it may say Archgon MD-8107S-U3YC-UHD on the box, the log says: Destination Device: [0:0:0] HL-DT-ST BD-RE BU40N 1.01 (D:) (USB) BUT, here's the thing. The BU40N is an INTERNAL drive. So, it sounds like someone put this in an enclosure and called it something else. The enclosure may be the problem. I've never heard of Archgon, but I have one of these slim model drives in my PC and it's burned Verbatim-IM BD-R fine. So, I'd see about trying something else other than that set up you have. However, you may have luck with a firmware update. Your log line says your drive is running 1.01 firmware, but there's a firmware update for 1.04 available. Updated firmware might include better compatibility with that type of BD-R. Try downloading and running this: https://gscs-b2c.lge.com/downloadFile?fileId=iGVK72xmUqe4fl1VwKpw If the firmware update doesn't do the trick, try a half-height USB drive from LG like the BE16NU50. Slim models are generally junk, however, the BU40N has proven to be decent in the tests I threw at in my both units I've had. Although the 2nd one I have is relatively useless because after a few months, the cap that holds discs in the drive keeps popping off. The firmware may not update. For instance, my BU40N is an OEM from HP, which, though it's called a BU40N, it's got different firmware made especially for HP by LG. So, I can't update to 1.04 because my current firmware is some screwy revision number called A102-01. Yours appears to be an OEM, too, so the firmware update may not work. Or it may; who knows?

I can remember when it was a light year leap to have 100 MB "floppies" when the Zip drive came out. I had one in 1996 and it seemed like such a vast amount of removable storage. And it was 25 years ago.

582 MB! HA! The HD in my first x86 PC in 1992 was a whopping 40 MB!

There are far better tools for doing file comparisons than COMP. But, I recommended COMP because it's free and comes with Windows. It's a leftover from MS-DOS from like 30 years ago.

I thought I'd start a list of Disc ID's that are "known good" and "known bad." Meaning, still readable after several years, including up to nearly 20 years from when they were recorded. KNOWN GOOD DISC MID'S (Manufacturer ID) The definition of a known good Manufacturer ID is a disc that burned successfully, passed Verify, and is still readable fully after at least a few years. BeAll G00001 (Sample recorded nearly 18 years ago. I had expected this sample to be only partially readable. My memory was BeAll was a maker of bad discs. This sample, though, showed otherwise.) Hitachi Maxell MCC-X (No longer writes properly on the LG WH16NS60. CMC/Verbatim apparently changed the formula for the dye on this disc and it's no longer compatible with that drive.) MCC 03RG20 (No longer writes properly on the LG WH16NS60. CMC/Verbatim apparently changed the formula for the dye on this disc and it's no longer compatible with that drive.) MKM-X (Recorded 12 years ago. Still readable.) MXL RG01 (Recorded 18 years and 2 days ago to be precise. 4 18 year old samples still readable, even though out of 2 MXL RG03 discs from 18 years ago, one was fully readable and one was only partially readable. So, take these results as you will.) LD (Probably short for Lead Data. Nearly 18 year old sample still reads.) LEAD-X/LEAD DATA-X (Recorded over 18 years ago. Still readable.) Lead Data (19 samples recorded over 18 years ago. Still readable.) OPTODISC-X OPTODISC (4 samples recorded over 18 years ago. All still readable. With a caveat. After I stopped counting, came across 2 such discs that were not still fully readable after 18 years. So, take these results as you will. 4/6 of them were still good, but is that good enough? However, Optodisc is no longer a player in the field, so it doesn't matter. But, if you've got older OPTODISC's out there that are still fully readable, I HIGHLY recommend you copy them to quality discs ASAP.) OPTODISCK001 (Recorded 18 years and 1 day ago to be precise. 3 recorded samples still readable after 18 years.) RICOH-X RICOHJPN-R00-01 (Recorded over 18 years ago. 3 samples still readable.) RICOHJPN-W21-01 RITEK-X (Recorded nearly 19 years ago. Still readable. Does NOT apply to DVD+R DL. Ritek DVD+R DL tends to be unreadable after only a year.) RITEK-008-00 RITEKG03 (28 sample discs recorded over 18 years ago. All still readable. Known to cause playback skips and pops on the original 2000 first release fat model Playstation 2 on the 2011/2012 2nd model fat Playstation 3.) RITEKG04 (3 sample discs recorded 18 years ago. Still readable. Known to cause playback skips and pops on the original 2000 first release fat model Playstation 2 on the 2011/2012 2nd model fat Playstation 3.) SONY (1 nearly 18 year old sample still readable.) SONY04D1 (6 16 year old recorded samples. Still readable. A 5th sample, date burned unknown, is still readable.) SONY08D1 (6 18 year old recorded samples. Still readable.) TAIYOYUDEN (Recorded over 18 years ago. Still readable.) TDKG02000000 (1 12 days from being 18 years recorded sample that reads fine. 2 samples that read fine.) TYG0X VERBAT-IM-X KNOWN BAD DISC MID'S (Manufacturer ID) The definition of a known bad Manufacturer ID is a disc that either failed to burn successfully, failed Verify, or is not readable or partially unreadable after at least a few years. CMC-X MXL GR03 (Had 2 nearly 18 year old discs. One was fully readable but one was only partially readable. So, I'm putting it down under "bad" due to the partial failure.) PRINCO (I thought Princo was a known bad manufacturer, but I had a 12 days from being 18 years recorded sample that reads fine. Then, I found a sample that when I recorded it back when, shortly afterwards, it became unreadable according to my notes on it. 14 samples, 4 over 18 years old, have read fine thus far. So, I've marked this as a "bad" manufacturer because of the initial burn problem, but take these results as you will as more samples than not were still readable after 18 years.) VANGUARD-X VANGUARD (Completely undetectable after 1 year. No contents visible.) VIVASTAR (4 samples either completely undetectable or partially unreadable after over 15 years. No contents visible for some. ImgBurn detects some recorded discs as "Disc Is Empty.")

I know pretty much nothing about MD5's, so I can't say. I don't think I've ever used a single hash file before in my life. I have ImgBurn set to generate them, but I've never used them before.

If you're really curious, you could always open a Command Prompt and use the COMP command to compare one ISO against the other to see if the contents are exactly the same. Or, to save some time, since that will take a bit to run that COMP, you could use Properties in File Explorer for each ISO and check their file sizes against each other.

I just got a cake stack of 100 of those CMCPro DVD-R off of Amazon.com. They do say Disc ID: TYG03 and that was actually printed on the label. For once, an optical disc manufacturer actually said who made them on the package! I'm burning my first one right now, but they should be okay. The burn just now completed as I type and the Verify has started. Verify completed. DVDShrink read of a Panasonic DVD Video recorder disc that I copied from its 18 year old source disc to one of these CMCPro discs also passed. So, unless there's some kind of problem I'm not expecting with playback, like the PS3 not recognizing inserted media or playing back with skips, pops, hisses, or pauses, these discs should be as good as the TYG03 TY's I've been getting off of Amazon.com as well.

I finally have some empirical evidence of just how long a quality DVD-R will last. I came across a PrimeDisc DVD-R I recorded on 2002-07-11. The MID is RITEKG03. This disc was still readable, a single VIDEO_TS from a Panasonic DVD Video recorder, into a new Build job ISO and creating. The disc passed a read of its contents in DVDShrink as well. So, a good 18 to 19 years has passed thus far. It's not too far fetched to say a quality DVD-R will last 20 years at least. And PrimeDisc wasn't exactly a household name. Although they apparently made a quality disc 18 plus years ago, farming out to Ritek. Ritek is a known quantity and I've found their discs are good 2nd tier quality material, although in places outside of North America, Ritek media seems to be pretty bad. So, it appears to be a quality disc, and a known quality manufacturer like Taiyo Yuden or Mitsubishi would probably last just as long and, most likely, longer.

Probably the fault of the Ritek disc you used. They're known to be problematic for some drives. I'm surprised you had better luck with an LG because my experience has been LG DVD drives won't read in discs other drives do. What I'd do at this point is put this disc in a CD player and try to play Track 12 all the way through. If the CD player won't play the track, then the disc is probably unreadable at that point and there's nothing you can do.

I've got one of these: https://www.officedepot.com/a/products/460958/Verbatim-External-Slimline-CD-And-DVD/ It is a slim line, but it seems to be better than most slim drives. I've not used them to test reading PS CD's, though. My main burner is a half height BD drive I put in an external enclosure. The BD drive is an LG WH16NS60 and the enclosure is a VanTech USB 3.0, since BD needs that. You can probably get by with a USB 2.x enclosure. However, it's been like a decade since I last bought an internal DVD drive, so I don't know what's good in that field or not.

Sounds like you've got a more serious problem in your wall outlet.

Could be the disc has gone bad over the years. Best let LUK see if he can glean anything from reading the debug logs provided. I don't know how the Playstation Classic works. I don't know what it imports, like what file types. ISO?

And it may be that ImgBurn simply can't image that PS disc. I have one in my collection, Mega Man 8, that ImgBurn simply can't image. I had to use Alcohol 120%, which I believe there was a free version, to image that particular game.

If you see the Search field in the upper right corner of the board, you'll see a magnifying glass; click on it and choose More Options, choose Content titles only under Find results in. Then do a search for the word semaphore. There are 2 pages of topics that have semaphore in their Titles. This will help narrow down the search. However, I haven't actually looked at the results, so there may not be much useful info there. There are probably things like try changing your USB cable or use a different USB port, which you're welcome to try, but most likely won't fix the issue. The underlying cause is a hardware one: a conflict between the ALI USB bridge in the USB burner and the USB controller on the motherboard in your PC. The only solution that has ever worked for me was to get a new burner.

BTW, that Sabrent link was for hard drive enclosures. It's for hard drives and probably won't fit an external slim model optical drive.