dbminter

As I said, I followed the guides a long time ago and never could get a bootable Windows disc. The ISO's when burnt to optical discs would never boot. Tried to get the same with Acronis True Image bootable discs. Attempting to build new discs never worked, which is why I resorted to UltraISO to inject/remove new files into bootable disc ISO's. I'd use ImgBurn to read the bootable discs to ISO and then UltraISO to edit the ISO's and ImgBurn to then, again, burn the UltraISO ISO's. to disc.

My guess is what happened the disc was used by something else like Nero before ImgBurn got to it. Nero notoriously leaves discs in incomplete statuses after writing to them. As LUK said, did you attempt a full erase/format in ImgBurn 2.5.8.0 before trying 2.4.4.0? I would be interested to see performing a full erase in 2.5.8.0 and then attempting a 2nd erase in 2.5.8.0. If the 2nd erase fails, then try the full erase with 2.4.4.0. If THAT works, then it would probably be worth something investigating as that is repeatable. I have years of ImgBurn installers archived. I may still have 2.4.4.0 and can test this myself if warranted.

Honestly, I never had any luck making any bootable discs using the guides or doing what the OP is attempting. What I do in a situation like this is use something that can inject or remove files from an ISO, like UltraISO, my choice. Then, I use ImgBurn to write the ISO UltraISO makes. UltraISO, however, is not freeware.

As I said, I've never burned an XBox game. Never have even owned a Microsoft console. So, I'm just going by general experience with burning discs and what I remembered from past posts about XBox burning. As LUK said, try the MKM discs which are the Verbatim DataLife Plus I recommended. However, you indicate you've used this drive before for burning XBox games. If you've also used the same DVD+R DL discs from Ritek that were working before but aren't anymore, that might indicate the drive needs replacing.

Oh, wait, I just noticed something from the log. You're using a slim model DVD burner. I've never burned XBox games, but last I recall, you needed a specific kind of DVD burner with a special firmware for properly writing XBox games that play. They were made before the creation of slim model drives, I think.

As I said, be sure you avoid the Verbatim Life Series you find in stores. They will be worse than the Ritek DVD+R DL. The DataLife Plus can only be found in online stores. If the problem persists, I'd look into your burner being the problem. It might need replacing.

Have you always used the same DVD+R DL discs for burning XBox games? I am drawn to this line in the log: I 12:16:41 Destination Media Type: DVD+R DL (Disc ID: RICOHJPN-D01-67) Generally, the only reliable DVD+R DL discs are the Verbatim DataLife Plus (NOT Life Series.) MKM's made by Mitsubishi.

The cable movement thing may be a sign of something else. It could indicate a failing cable or a failing USB port on either the drive enclosure or on your PC. You may want to try replacing the USB cable or try putting the cable in a different USB port on your PC. Plus, is this a USB 2.x or USB 3.0? USB 2.x, while technically possible, is not recommended for BD burners because of the throughput necessary for operation. If you're connected by USB 2.x, then movement of the cable could affect the burn.

It probably is LiteOn specific. I haven't used LiteOn in about a decade, which is about how long ago I remember last encountering record count.

Oh, you're concerned that the record count will somehow trigger a finite number of burns limitation? No. The record count just keeps track of how many discs the drive has burned. While there is a finite number of discs a drive will burn before it dies, and that varies based on how long the drive will last and how hard it's been used, it has nothing to do with the record count. There's no arbitrary limit that is triggered by the record count where a drive will stop burning discs. And ImgBurn doesn't care what the record count is beyond displaying it. It's been a long time since I've seen a record count returned by ImgBurn on a drive I've had. I had even forgotten it was a feature. It was that long ago.

That value may be individualistic to the brand of drive. Not all drives support keeping a burn record count. So, it may be a 2 digit or 3 digit value, depending on how the manufacturer implemented the feature.

If you burned 98% of 500 CMC BD-R correctly, with only 2% failures, consider yourself VERY lucky, particularly with a Pioneer drive. CMC Magnetics makes the absolute worst optical media out there. (Ironically enough, they own Verbatim, which sells the best DVD media out there (Mitsubishi actually makes it for them, though.).) The very nature of CMC media is you can go without failures and then get many within the same cake stack of discs. If the failures persist over a given amount of time, you might want to try and see if replacing the Pioneer helps. 500 discs is an awful lot to burn and generally well beyond the life capacity of an optical burner. Although, Pioneer used to make the best drives out there for a while, so maybe their quality has increased back to where it used to be.

Well, the answer is you're using CD-R's. ImgBurn is not write protecting CD-R's as CD-R's as what are called WORM's. That stands for Write Once Read Many. You can only write to a CD-R once in ImgBurn. You can write to CD-R's more than once if you're using packet writing, which is what Windows/File Explorer does when you write a CD-R as a giant floppy. But, ImgBurn only writes to a CD-R once. If you want to reuse CD media, you need CD-RW.

I would also question the integrity of your C:\ (Stupid emoji!) device.

It sounds like you're not writing to an image file first and burning to discs? If you're getting failure to read while burning and ruining discs because the writes don't complete, it sounds like you're burning on the fly. Try writing to an image file first and then burn the image. If you're getting the failure to read the file while burning to the image file first, at least you're not going to ruin discs. If you ARE writing to image files first and burning those, I can't see why you'd get a read failure on something like a JPG.

The problem you're most likely going to run into is how Sony defined the Blu-Ray player standard. For instance, you can put BD video on a DVD if it's small enough and a BD player will play it, but you cannot put DVD Video on a BD and get it to play. The way it's defined is the player generally (Not always.) checks what kind of media is inserted. If it's a CD, it will attempt to play music. If it's a DVD, it will attempt to play a DVD Video. If it's a BD, it will attempt to play a BD movie. Since UHD is so large it general precludes anything but BD media, UHD probably checks for a BD before attempting to play it.

Go by Pioneer's sites and check out their burners. They usually offer multiple kinds of their models with fewer features for people who want to save on price. Although you may be wary of their hardware after your experience.

By wasting a disc, I was thinking of putting in a BD-R that wasn't an M-Disc. You might end up wasting a BD-R that isn't an M-Disc. The big question is exactly what kind of response would you get in a non M-Disc burner if you inserted an M-Disc BD. Would you get incompatible media? Or just an infinite loop attempting to load the disc? Or, worst case scenario, you attempt to write an M-Disc in a non M-Disc burner and the drive attempts it, but can't, but still wrote just enough to make the disc unusable in an M-Disc burner.

Barring that one hiccup I had earlier which succeeded on the next disc I attempted to burn, I've had no issues since that one recently. Which means, most likely, the BD-R that did fail was just a bad one in the batch. While an MID can say anything in its string, including M-Disc, I doubt very few M-Disc manufacturers will do that. So, no there most likely won't be anything anywhere in the MID that says M-Disc. As far as I know, there's no way to tell if a disc is an M-Disc after you've burned it. The obvious way to tell before burning is try burning it on a non M-Disc drive. However, you'd probably end up wasting a disc that way, so it's not practical.

Board appears to be operating as "expected" now when I click on unread content.

Yeah, as long as there's a VIDEO_TS folder on the disc with VOB and IFO files and they're properly authored, DVDShrink should read in the contents for possible salvaging. However, my experience with DVD Video Recorders is the contents they write to discs need to be finalized before they can be playable contents.

I actually had 3 NS60's sitting around. One gets used and the other 2 were older units. I always have a backup for my tech on hand when it dies. And it is a question of when, not if. The oldest one died and I swapped in the oldest of the other 2, but it also died in under a week. It's time was close to dying, too. The one I swapped in just recently was the newest one I had. Next month, I plan on getting another NS60 to have on hand to swap in when this one eventually gives up the ghost. There's no set in stone answer on when a laser will die. I've had drives that lasted 2 years and I've had drives that lasted 2 months before they gave up the ghost. But, there are certain factors that help age a laser. Particularly, how long it's been used. In other words, how many discs it's burned. The good news about LG is they have a very good replacement policy. They will replace a drive if it dies before a year. If it's out of warranty, they charge $40 for a replacement, which is cheaper than the drive new. However, though I've had to get several replacements from LG over the years that were out of warranty, they have never charged me the $40 replacement fee for any drive I've returned.

As for the reliability of the NS60, it's really up to the discs you're putting in. For instance, just now, on the NS60 I swapped in, I got a failure on Verify right at the start of a BD-R burn. However, the next write of the same image to the same Verbatim BD-R succeeded so that most likely a fluke. 1 bad disc in a stack of 50. So, it's generally not the reliability of the drive that fails, it's the discs. However, some drives do have bad firmware like Pioneer and ASUS. Of course, this could be an indication the BD laser is going bad in this NS60, too. I've no idea how long this NS60 was sitting there on the shelf or how long I'd used it before putting it on the shelf.

Verbatim probably actually doesn't make their own optical drives. Half of their discs they don't make themselves; they're farmed out to CMC Magnetics. You should avoid slim model drives whenever possible. They're generally junk. I do have a slim model Verbatim DVD drive for those rare cases when my NS60 won't read a disc. LG drives can be picky readers. Like maybe 1 disc in 100 can't be read by them. The only 2 burn tests I gave it had 50/50 results. DVD-R burned fine, but DVD+RW didn't.

The WH16NS60 is as reliable as the lasers that are put into each unit. (A BD burner has 2 lasers: one for CD and DVD and the other for Blu-Ray.) By that, I mean I've had relatively 100% success rate except when the lasers are dying. For instance, earlier in the week, I swapped out an NS60 for a replacement because it failed twice in a row to burn BD-R. Swapping it out worked because the BD laser was dying. Personal experience has lead me to believe the NS60 is the best of the worst. It has the fewest problems of the 3 major manufacturers. The LG's limitations are it claims to write 16x to 16x BD-R but only writes at 12x. Other write rates are also slightly less than the other manufacturers. If there is any recovery of buffers during a write, BD-R maxes out at only 6x and DVD-R at only 8x. Lastly, the NS60 does not properly write to the latest model Ritek 8x DVD+RW. It does to the earlier model Ricoh, but not the latest Ritek ones from Imation. There are two other major BD manufacturers out there. As you know, Pioneer is one. Pioneer unfortunately is a non-starter because it's become junk over the last few years. BD-RE only ever verifies at 2x max even though 2x BD-RE is capable of much faster read speeds. Lastly, Pioneer firmware has, for years, been unable to write properly to the old model Ritek 8x DVD+RW. They always fail Verifies. The other major manufacturer is ASUS, but they're a non-starter, too. When their model was first released, the firmware destroyed DVD+RW and BD-RE! Subsequent firmware updates stopped that, but the drive still doesn't properly write to new Imation Ritek 8x DVD+RW. The deal killer is DVD+R DL. They always fail Verify at the layer change, meaning the firmware doesn't properly write Verbatim MKM high quality DVD+R DL. I've never written any TL BD media so I can't say how well the NS60 handles those. I've burned a few M-Disc, but only SL's. And the only BD DL media I've ever burned is BD-RE DL. You may be tempted to get the WH16NS40 because it's cheaper if you don't need UHD. Don't. The NS40 will 9 times out of 10 fail to properly write to BD DL media.