dbminter

Okay, so it sounds pretty simple. You want to save 3 YouTube videos to files and send those files on a CD-R to someone else. I believe there are ways to download YouTube videos simply using your web browser, but it's fairly complicated and I'm not sure how to do it. Probably the easiest way to save YouTube videos is a piece of free software called YouTube Downloader HD. Be aware some YouTube videos are locked down and can't be downloaded by pretty much anything. Once you have the 3 files you want to send to someone, the way to put those 3 files on a CD-R is with Build mode, probably best explained in this Guide:

I think to save time wasted on things you may not want, what exactly are you wanting these YouTube songs to be? An Audio CD that plays like any other Audio CD disc in a CD player? Are you wanting the video from YouTube or just the audio? If you want the video, do you want the video playing like a DVD Video disc that when you insert it in a DVD player, it starts playing the video? You say you have some YouTube songs (Even though you apparently don't actually have them.) but the Subject of this post is burning to CD-R. Do you want to make an Audio CD CD-R or do you just want those files downloaded from YouTube to be on a CD-R that you can play on your PC?

Why would a software disc be released on a DVD-RW instead of a pressed disc? Is this disc an archive you had of an original? You're probably encountering an unreadable sector on an old DVD-RW that has simply lost its potency. I would try using File/Windows Explorer to copy the contents in the root directory of this DVD-RW to some other location. It will probably fail because I think your disc has probably gone bad. Rewritable discs don't have longevity for archival purposes. If it does succeed, you can create a new ISO from the contents you copied. The scrambled sector message is probably the only interpretation the software could come up with for the error returned by the drive. I doubt there really is a scrambled sector. I've never heard of scrambled sectors, actually. In fact, I don't see how you can scramble sectors. You can apply copy protection on DVD Video discs, but that's not based on sector protection.

Since you tried both FLAC and MP3, it might not work, but there is the chance whoever you bought them from online didn't do any different processing between the two file types. I use something called freac, Free Audio Converter. So, I'd try first converting from FLAC to FLAC again. The conversion process might change the files into compatible ones. If that doesn't work, try converting the MP3 to FLAC. And then try converting the FLAC to MP3. Generally when I'm creating Audio CD's from containers and there's a failure of some kind, it's usually as a result of an improperly formatted input file. So, I try converting from one file type to another first. Sometimes, converting from the same format to the same also solves the problem so nothing is lost from FLAC. If the CD-RW are CMC, it doesn't really matter, probably. They're rewritable so you're not out anything. Of course, you should avoid CMC discs even if they are rewritable to circumvent any CMC incompatibilities.

Oh, are you burning your own custom made CUE file you created with ImgBurn and a bunch of MP3 or other type of audio container files? Or is this a CUE file made as an image of a preexisting Audio CD? If you're creating your own custom made CUE file, then whatever file Track 3 is might be problematic for conversion. If you are creating your own CUE files, I'd try taking whatever Track 3's file is and use a freeware piece of software to convert it to another file type and create a new custom .CUE file with this new converted file and try burning again. If you can get some, try using CD-RW so you don't waste discs. You can write to CD-RW's multiple times. Another possibility is your DVD drive. I checked on the SDRW-08U9M-U model and it's a slim model drive. Slim model drives are notorious for being problematic. You may want to try finding a half height model USB drive and see if the problem persists. If it does, then it may be something in the image file itself. You've already isolated the discs aren't the problem, causing the same error at the same spot in 2 different kinds of discs including the quality media. If you use a different burner and it still happens, then the problem could be in the image itself. You could also try using different USB ports and try changing USB cables to isolate if it's a USB hardware error. One last thing you could try, though it probably won't work, is to check for a firmware update to your drive. USB drives generally don't have firmware updates available, but it's not always the case. And firmware updates often times don't help problems, but they sometimes do.

Companies often times slap high prices on the cheap CMC media to maximize profits. Very few companies actually make any recordable media anymore. Most were bought up by CMC, including Verbatim and Taiyo Yuden. For NOW, Verbatim still makes their cheap junk but also still makes the higher quality stuff Verbatim and TY used to make. Mitsubishi, I think, still makes the higher quality recordable DVD's, like the DataLife Plus/AZO, for Verbatim. Fewer companies whose name is on the package actually made the items inside. It's mostly CMC or CMC owned subsidiaries, Mitsubishi, and Panasonic who make the media. There can be differences, depending on what the manufacturer is willing to spend. Most just go with cheap CMC media and price it high because most people don't know the difference. And, when they do learn, CMC, has, at least, made one sale before they learned differently. Maxell and TDK used to make higher quality media, but I haven't used them in years. TDK used to make the only CD-R's I trusted in before I found Verbatim DataLife Plus/AZO and TY's. However, that was over a decade ago, so I've no idea whether they sold out to CMC or not. I knew Phillips was using CMC 5 years ago because I used to find DVD-R 2 for a buck at Dollar Tree. I decided to plunk down the dollar, most likely knowing I was getting CMC crap. But, if I can't use them, I'm only out a buck, and you never know until you try. Of course... I was out the buck...

Just as I thought. It's probably this: I 12:25:05 Destination Media Type: CD-R (Disc ID: 97m26s66f, CMC Magnetics Corp.) CMC Magnetics makes the cheapest discs out there. Over 50 percent of the problems on this board are caused by CMC cheap discs. When people switch away from the cheap media, the problem generally disappears. Try the Verbatim DataLife Plus/AZO CD-R. NOT the Verbatim Life Series you find in brick and mortar stores. Those are CMC. You can generally only find the Verbatim DataLife Plus/AZO CD-R in online stores like Amazon.com.

Actually, just for the sake of completeness, I said I had a problem using Waterfox Classic on the Macrium Reflect forums. I only use Chrome for accessing online accounts for my mother so it can uniquely store her sign in ID's and passwords. Otherwise, I use Waterfox and Firefox for sites where Waterflox Classic doesn't quite load them right. Well, I had MEANT to say that, at least.

Just as I thought. I was going to ask for a log, too, to see if it was what I thought it was. This is your most likely culprit: I 17:52:39 Destination Media Type: CD-R (Disc ID: 97m26s66f, CMC Magnetics Corp.) CMC Magnetics makes the worst media out there. You have to buy the right kind of Verbatim when you buy Verbatim. The good Verbatim CD-R are DataLife Plus (NOT the Life Series you find in brick and mortar stores. They will be CMC, too.) or AZO which you generally only find in online stores. CMC media causes over 50% of the problems seen on this board. When people generally switch away from CMC media, their problems disappear. However, in your case, given you had previously problems, there's no guarantee, which there never is. In this case, though, the first thing I'd do is switch away from CMC Verbatim and go for DataLife Plus/AZO, which is the best media out there. Yes, Verbatim releases both the best AND the worst. You have to selectively shop. And, sadly, CMC OWNS Verbatim. These were the last good CD-R I bought, but I bough them last in 2017. So, I can't say if they're still good or not, but, since you linked Amazon.com, it seems you're buying from them, which is where I got my Verbatim DataLife/AZO CD-R: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008L3HV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can remember the days of software magazines where free utilities were posted as BASIC code in the pages and you had to TYPE them in. This generally resulted in code that didn't work, but conveniently, the magazines sold copies on floppies that DID work.

That is something I've wondered for a while now. Why can't .CUE be created to an image file first? Why must .CUE immediately be burned to disc?

Yes, I don't think I've seen a case where burning at a faster speed solved a problem. It's generally the other way around.

Probably because you're using a slim model drive. Slim model drives are notorious for being basically junk. Try getting a half height model USB drive and see if you have better luck. A firmware update will most likely 1.) not work and 2.) are rarely, if ever, posted for external burners.

Depending on the nature of those TDK's, they could be working by luck of the draw, depending on who made them. Plus, if you've never used them before in this LG drive you got, there could be a conflict with them like there is with those Verbatim DVD+R's and LG's WH16NS60.

It is known that CMC changed the manufacturing process for the DVD+R you described from Verbatim, the MCC-003-00 to the point where it is unusable in the LG WH16NS60 BD burner. That doesn't explain the TDK failure, though. Can you post a log of a TDK failed burn? You can open the Log file under Help. In the meantime, though it probably won't help, try checking for a firmware update to the drive. In Write mode, right click on the drive letter and choose the last option near the end of the context menu to check for firmware update. Until I see the TDK log, I know that Taiyo Yuden's DVD-R works in LG's WH16NS60. You could try some of those and see if that helps. I, however, would be more inclined to blame the drive. Either on its age or the fact that it's an LG.

Plus, who knows from what source OldVersions got their file? It could have been sourced from a recompile from one of the mirrors. Or it could simply be that LUK didn't version the older releases, too.

A lot of the mirrors for ImgBurn repackage the software with their own bloatware. So, those repackaged versions may not have version signatures because, technically, they aren't the same application anymore. Whoever repackaged them may simply have just been lazy and didn't do it.

I'm not certain, but since it says Spared in the link, I wonder if that means when a disc is formatted with spare areas. That would reduce the available space for writing.

Probably depends on where you got this 2100.exe file from is why those field are blank. My installers were downloaded from the official ImgBurn site, not one of the mirrors or an external hosting site.

Yeah, apparently you were composing your reply at the same time I was compsoing my feature request.

LUK, this brings up an idea I had. In the Tools, there are 3 options for creating CUE, DVD, and MDS files, but not one for CCD. CCD is apparently only available at the time of creating an Image from a CD. If someone had a .IMG fie and needed a CCD, say they accidentally deleted it, should there be a Create CCD option under Tools?

No, I haven't used Windows 7 is like 10 years.

I was forced into using Waterfox, not that it's a bad browser. I have an Extension/Add-On I absolutely cannot live without in Firefox, but Mozilla annoyingly dropped support for the old Extensions/Add-Ons. Waterfox expressly decided to keep updating the old version by importing new fixes and keeping the old Extensions/Add-Ons working. Waterfox now comes in two flavors, the Classic which I am using as my default browser. I also have the new generation Firefox installed as a secondary browser. I have Chrome installed for another use. And there's the Edge preinstalled in Windows 10.

I believe as you get near the outer boundary of burning a DVD-5 to DVD-9, the application could add what is called padding, which may result in a larger than DVD-5 disc. While this isn't necessarily a comparable situation, I had a DVD-9 image once that was just barely over the size of a DVD-5. However, the resulting disc was burned to nearly 8 GB.

To determine the version number of ImgBurn for a particular installer, choose the Properties of the file in File Explorer and select Details. It will tell you the version number under File Version and/or Product Version.