dontasciime
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Posts posted by dontasciime
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they are not RW
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Lets hope your 360 drive does not break and any replacement drive/repair from M$ still likes the Ricoh disc's you have already wasted I mean burnt.
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I don't know how we would know if it "sucks" or not as I/we don't know how to speak/read Italian....Did Geno888 do that translation LUK?
EDIT: I stand corrected, looksa lika Donta dida the transalation eh!
Hey, what'sa matta you
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Hi, can I re-translate ImgBurn in italian? The actual translation really sucks because it was make with automatic translator as Google Translate. Bye!I'm pretty sure it was done by humans but if you think you can do a better job, be my guest.
Whadda Mistaka Da Maka
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I'd like to order a thong please..... imgburn red..... extra large.
We can still see your nuts.
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LayerBreak=1913760 exact_name_of_your_iso.iso
copy into text doc replace extact_name with the same name as your iso and once done and saved as your iso name.dvd place in same folder as your ISO
save as "exact_name_of_your_iso.dvd" speech marks are important so include them in the naming
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Why is this an ImgBurn problem ?
Answer it is not.
Your source files are responsible . ImgBurn burns data as IS.
Check your source files and the conversion also check your ps3 settings my blu ray backups play @ 1080p on both my ps3's.
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When you burn with Toast do you also set the write speed to 2.4x like you do in ImgBurn? If I'm not mistaken it defaults to use the max speed, which in your case is 4x. Also, I'm not sure about your SE-S204S burner, but my SH-S203B (internal 20x SATA) does better quality burns at 4x on those Verbatim blanks.
I would set Toast to burn at 2.4x because I thought slower speeds were always more reliable (it does give you the option).
Not always true the Samsung 203b prefers to burn Verbatim MKM-001-00 @4x rather than the default 2.4x which is what Mmalves touched upon actually said in his couple of posts above.
To OP try single layer as Mmalves suggested but use DVD-R for you movie to try on your 360 make sure it is DVD-R if you burn it in your Samsung especially.
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split it yourself , you cannot shrink it unless you use 7zip or winrar and the files you have can be compressed by the amount you would need to fit onto 4464 meg or dual layer 8124 meg.
Split the files into 2 or 3 folders yourself then use build mode to build ISO that is 4.37 gig from the files you have in folder 1 then repeat with folder 2 by placing the remainder of files from the 13 gig ISO into folder 2 etc
you need to extract the 13gig ISO to a folder or mount the ISO with daemon tools to be able to explore the contents of the ISO
once you have split the 13 gig to however many folders that are below 4.37 gig use build mode to create ISO of the 4.37 gig files and burn each one
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I make plenty of successful DVD iso's using imgburn.
Occasionally I get one that has the expected size, but from a random sector to the end of the file it is just full of zeroes. This can happen anywhere, it's seemingly random.
I used the sector viewer in IsoBuster to reveal the problem.
I usually check iso's directly in VLC, but just check a few random spots. I guess I should just check the end of the iso to see if there is still data there... live and learn <sigh>.
I've also checked the source files of failed iso's and they are completely fine afaict... they play OK in VLC if that is any indication. Re-building failed iso's from the same source files usually gives a good iso first time!
I'm using v2.4.2.0 on a 2.8GHz PC with 1Gig RAM, XP Pro SP2 and write iso's directly to a LaCie external drive formatted NTFS with heaps of space. Builds usually take about 2':30" or so at around 18x.
Has anyone else had this happen?
Turn compression off on the drive and scan the drive for file system errors and check smart then check drive again with scandisk but for surface errors this time. Lacie drives can be very dodgy and fail more often than Maxtor.
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To be fair I think they had updated to latest version and when it did not work and were convinced that going back to previous version that had been working would work again.
To the original poster there is no magic setting it is down to your hardware/media combo . whilst the disc's may look the same you just never can tell if they were made in another factory or they had quality issues or if they are even genuine verbatim. Update your firmware as advised and follow Cynthia's advice on how to do it or get someone that is better with computers to do it for you.
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change your media, it is not very good and causes exactly the problem you describe. Get some taiyo yuden / tygo2 tygo3 or mcc media. Ditch the ritek media. Also stick to 8x writing with your usb or 12 max if you have to but 8x is a better option if using usb2, if using usb 1 chuck everything in bin.
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http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000
change your media those ritek are too hit n miss. If you can get them to burn on those writers do so. They will not burn on all dvd writers as I have those disc's and lots of dvd writers so I can say, they burn @2.4x on all the writers I have tried so far. 4x fails on a 1 or maybe 2 drives but 6x and 8x tend to fail on every drive I try them on with the odd one working.
There is also a newer firmware for your drive 1.02
http://rapidshare.com/files/160836356/GSA-H50N_1.02.zip
I uploaded it here as lg site javascript not let me copy link
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I hope it's an error in imgburn that can be corrected and not a hardware issue as I really like these Samsung burners
You are going to dislike your Samsung then as it is not an error with ImgBurn. Nero does it as well for people.
Use DVD-R as I never saw it happen on any of my Samsung writers with DVD-R
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Thanks
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Have you tried playing this disc on other bluray players? Like a friend's PS3 for example?
No you think it might be the player though? Also how do I enable 'FastWrite' in the settings so that ImgBurn will burn my disc faster than 1x , because i set it at 2x but it still burns at 1x
By ticking it in write settings surprisingly
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You know that you don't need to erase DVD+RW, DVD-RAM or BD-RE media before rewriting on them, right? Simply click the Write/Build button and ImgBurn will ask you if you want to overwrite the disc
I knew that about +RW and RAM, but not about BD-RE. Thanks for the tip. Too bad it's of no help with this current problem I'm having...
why don't you try Cyberlink hi-def suite it works great to erase BD-RE's 25 & 50gb
How clever
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Change to verbatim and it is your media also 4x is the lowest you can use on those disc's you have
You can argue as much as you want about not having any trouble previously.
You were lucky thats all, as the media is so inconsistent as has just been proved, it no longer works for you. Get some verbatim MKM-001-00 and burn @2.4x and use a .dvd file instead of specifying layerbreak and let IB do it from calculate optimal
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found your tool last time this time it hides LOL
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Just accept the warning. If it fails you were warned
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for me just standard ms driver at op install.
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Because the new NVIDIA drivers are rubbish and return bogus error codes to ImgBurn - they corrupt the real ones.
Older versions of the driver are fine.
so what versions are considered safe and which versions to avoid. Also using the generic driver removes this problem?
standard ms ones are better on all my nforce boards [6.53 works ok for opticals nforce 3/4]
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