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mmalves

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Everything posted by mmalves

  1. Then please post the log of one of those burns. Also post the IBG file of that burn (its location is indicated at the end of that burn's log).
  2. When that happens, are you able to cancel the burn/close ImgBurn? Do you get any error message in the Log window? Is the burner's jumper set to Master?
  3. The original DVD is pressed and, as such, it can be PTP or OTP. Ever crossed your mind that they use PTP as a poor man's version of copy protection? Since there's no PTP media on the market, you can't make a perfect copy of the original disc
  4. Make sure you're using the latest ImgBurn version. You can specify the folder(s) that ImBurn uses by default in Tools -> Settings -> File Locations.
  5. Make sure you have the latest BIOS version for your motherboard.
  6. http://lmgtfy.com/?q=PAL+to+NTSC
  7. Yes, that's a good burner. You'll also need to buy an external enclosure for a 5 1/4" external device with internal SATA interface (the external interface will probably be USB 2.0 or USB 2.0/eSATA combo). Installing the drive into the enclosure is pretty easy and probably comes with instructions.
  8. Try the other available write speeds. Also try a lens cleaning disc on that burner. If all that doesn't help then you can try getting the 2.4x Verbatim blanks or a new burner.
  9. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Optiarc - you should use the NEC tab of the Change Book Type window, although that burner automatically booktypes DVD+R DL media to DVD-ROM so you don't need to worry about it
  10. What if you use the SATA controller in AHCI mode? Also please post your Filter Driver Load Order (look in ImgBurn's Tools menu).
  11. There are a few online stores listed in this post. As for the cheapest you'll have to find out as I live probably quite far from you About the models usually the latest model is the best one to get, and usually you can find other users experiences with them at the cdfreaks forum
  12. I would tell you if I knew, but the only way to know if your burner works with that disc is by trying
  13. Look over at http://club.cdfreaks.com/ and you might find how well your burner(s) can handle that media.
  14. With the DRU-830A burner, have you tried burning at 8x? It almost seems like the drive stops burning because of bad media yet the error (notice the 'Write Error' above) takes a lot of time to be recognized. Is the drive the only device connected at the end of the cable and its jumper is set to master? As for the LG SATA burner, could you post a log where it was used and errored out?
  15. The cheapest external burners are usually made by LG and Samsung, and even though they aren't the best, if you keep using high quality media they both should do a good job. Now, if you want the real deal, you could get the latest model by Pioneer or Optiarc and stick it into an external enclosure of your choice. Don't get a slim burner though: as you've seen for yourself they're junk.
  16. That usually happens when the USB bus isn't delivering data fast enough to maintain that burn speed, which in your case is 18x (AWS defaults to MAX speed if not configured otherwise). You can try burning at 16x or 12x and you probably won't have that problem again.
  17. If it was me I would get the newest internal full size model from Pioneer or Optiarc and put it in an external enclosure. Now if you want a factory-assembled external model there are several from LG, Samsung, Lite-On, Pioneer, etc, but they might be more expensive than assembling one yourself, and depending on their firmware updates they might not be as good as an internal drive in an external enclosure.
  18. You know a burner is crappy quality when even the manufacturer acknowledges such fact in the product's name Seriously, though, laptop burners aren't great for dual-layer burning, so your best chance of getting a good burn is using the Verbatim 2.4x blanks. You may be able to burn those other dual-layer discs with a different burner, preferably a recent full size one in a desktop computer or an external enclosure
  19. Your burner doesn't support those discs. Try with Verbatim 2.4x DVD+R DL blanks and it should work.
  20. Install this and reboot the computer. Have you installed Service Pack 3 for Windows XP that I've linked above?
  21. Remove these 3 filters to rule them out as the cause of the problem (if some other program stops working re-install that program). Could you run SIW and post what's shown in Hardware -> Motherboard? You can select all the lines and use Edit -> Copy then paste here in your reply Also, in which USB port is the burner connected to? Is it behind the computer or in the front of the case? Or is it through an USB hub?
  22. Yes, I'm using Win7 RTM. As for cleaning the burner there are some cleaning disc kits sold on CD/DVD stores, or you could manually cleaning the burner's lenses with a cotton bud and some alcohol.
  23. The burn process relies on the burner/firmware/media combination: the software just feeds the data in the correct sequence, so using an older version of ImgBurn won't solve your problem. Have you tried a lens cleaning disc on your burner? It could be just dirt getting in the way. Also laptop burners aren't great at burning, so using high quality media plays a big part. By the way I've been using Windows 7 since before RC1 and ImgBurn never had any problems with it
  24. Where's the log of that burn? Look in ImgBurn's Help menu.
  25. I know of O&O DriveLED but never used it myself
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