mmalves

Slim burners are rubbish at best, so you have to try with high quality media to see if the burner is the problem or not.

If you have a problem with ImgBurn we can help, for anything else you'll need to use Google because we can't help.

If you're backing up original discs then you're wasting your time because they're protected and ImgBurn doesn't copy protected discs. And you should use the .mds file, as it contains additional information (e.g. the layerbreak position) needed for the copy to work properly.

Your burner doesn't like the blanks you're using. Try burning at 6x or 4x, and if it doesn't work, then try with high quality media such as Verbatim and Taiyo Yuden blanks.

ImgBurn can't do what you want.

Try with Verbatim 2.4x blanks to see if they work better. If it doesn't work with them then we'll know the problem is the burner.

Post the log from when you've tried with Verbatim media. As for the SPTD use the Search feature of this board.

how would i check what firmware my burner is? as for the burn log, it doesnt say anthing about a failure or anything, its very odd, as it just seems to stop at 50%. cant get my head around it. but if ya like i can start another burn and when it stops at it usual place i can copy the log of up to then if you like if ya can help me? cheers mate Read again what I posted and you'll notice where to get the log from previous burns and also where to get the latest firmware for your burner.

Post the log of the failed burn (you can find previous logs in ImgBurn's Help menu).

Apply the A109 firmware and try with Verbatim DVD+R DL blanks, preferably the 2.4x ones. If it doesn't work at first then try a lens cleaning disc on that burner.

The burn log would be more useful (look in ImgBurn's Help menu). As for the SPTD warning you can find out what it is using the Search feature. By the way, there is newer firmware for your burner.

It wasn't cycling the tray then because on all slim burners you have to push it in (they don't even have the mechanism for closing by itself). You can change the tray cycling in Tools -> Settings -> Write tab.

Try burning at 4x or 6x. And you should leave Verify enabled, or you'll never know if the burn was good or not.

http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000

Also try burning at 8x or 12x.

Try a lens cleaning disc on your burner. Try the other available write speeds.

A free alternative is DVD Flick, which uses ImgBurn to burn the disc for you

Post the whole log of that burning session.

ImgBurn doesn't support multisession yet.

That's due to riplock. MediaCodeSpeedEdit can remove the riplock: use it to patch the 2.00 firmware and then flash it to your burner.

The AWS feature is for using a pre-select speed, but if you haven't configured it then it uses MAX speed by default. The problem you're having is that your burner doesn't like the media you're using. Have you read this?

You can't booktype -R media, only +R media can be booktyped.

Also try the other available write speeds.

Update your burner's firmware and burn at 8x or 12x to see if you get a better quality burn. It would also help if you used high quality media such as Verbatim and Taiyo Yuden blanks.

That WinRAR or whatever that associates itself with the ISO file extension. If you're not using the ISO image for something specific, you can burn directly to disc using 'Write files/folders to disc'.