mmalves

Update your burner's firmware. Try burning at 4x. It would also be adviseable to look for the latest drivers for your motherboard's chipset and/or storage controllers (hint: use SIW to identify them).

Please read this entirely -> http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000 Your old topic wasn't good enough?

The drive doesn't care about the type of data you're burning. And the firmware is stored in the burner's flash memory. Having the latest firmware ensures your drive has the best support for burning the blanks you're using, as per the manufacturer's tests.

ImgBurn is freeware while any other burning program advertised there is payware, so it's not really competition. Besides, if the user comes to ImgBurn's website and can't figure out that he/she is downloading other burning software, then ImgBurn isn't really for them anyway.

The logs are automatically saved and you can find them in ImgBurn's Help menu.

Bad drivers usually freeze the computer or stall the burning process. It's very unlikely that they would return an error that is specific to the MMC standard for burning optical discs.

That doesn't affect the burning process.

Update ImgBurn. Try burning at 8x or 12x. Try cleaning the drive with a lens cleaning disc. I'd also use firmware 1.07 on that burner.

Try this firmware update for your burner. Also try burning at 8x. If all that doesn't work then try with other brands of discs until you find one that works. Alternatively, you can burn that to DVD media and it'll work just the same. In all cases leave the Verify option enabled.

Session fixation is the end of the burning process and it's all done by the burner itself: ImgBurn just sends the command and waits for the drive to do it and report success or failure.

Yes, Verbatim makes the best dual layer media you can get, but maybe you missed this bit from that sticky: You already have the latest firmware for your burner, so that's one option you can scratch.

Now that was painless, wasn't it?

http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=8000

It's not an error, it's a warning, and it's happening most likely because the slowest speed your burner supports burning that media at is 4x, which isn't uncommon for a fast burner like that with 16x rated media like that. If you play that disc on the computer using a software DVD player, is it still jumpy? You might want to try burning at 8x or 12x to see if you get a better quality burn. Oh, and next time please post the log of the burn.

If you meant the "Power Calibration Area is Full" error then you're mistaken: it comes directly from the burner and has nothing to do with other programs/SPTD driver. It's usually caused by low quality media, dirty lens or worn out burner.

Any shop that sells CDs/DVDs should have them.

Try 6x and 8x. Have you tried a lens cleaning disc on that burner?

The Win7 standard drivers should work in most cases, but with some motherboards the hardware implementation may be different in some way that only the manufacturer's driver can understand/handle.

Ah then you have a good reason for making the ISOs then I suggested burning straight from the VIDEO_TS folder because most people will only burn them once or twice, and, in that case, burning directly from the folder would save them a few minutes from creating the ISO image

Most DVD players support reading both formats so in the end both formats should work. One doesn't have any technical advantages over the other if you're wondering. That buffer underrun shouldn't be a problem and it may have happened because you were using the computer while burning. By the way, you don't need to make an ISO image before burning: you can burn directly to disc from the VIDEO_TS folder. There's even an option for that in DVD Flick's settings if I'm not mistaken.

Look for the latest Win7 drivers for your motherboard's chipset and/or storage controlelrs (hint: use SIW to identify them). You might also try burning at 8x or 12x, or at 16x if you need the speed.

Sometimes, yes. You see... These are the write speeds your burner supports with that media. Since 4x isn't resulting in a good burn, 6x and 8x are your next options. 2.4x isn't recommended because that media is rated 16x, and burning too slow in 16x media never gives good results. You could also try with Verbatim or Taiyo Yuden blanks, and you could also join the dark side, I mean, try with DVD-R discs

Try burning at 6x or 8x to see if you get a better burn at those speeds.

Post the log from when you've burned that disc (look in ImgBurn's Help menu).

DVD Flick saves the burn log in the same folder you've saved your project.