LIGHTNING UK!

It doesn't... but I can tell from the number of available sectors. The 'Hardware Defect Management Active' line should say 'Yes', but a little cosmetic bug in 2.5.7.0 means that it always says 'No'

Put the disc in the drive, switch to 'Write' mode and then look for 'MID' in the disc info box on the right.

Sorry for not replying to this, it must have been when I was away on holiday. I'm glad you've finally got a working system - even if you're not really sure why it now works

The brand name on the disc doesn't mean anything, it's the MID/dye they use that's important. (That's the 'CMCMAG-DI6-000' bit) Maybe you could locate one of the ones you've burnt before and see if it's the same MID/dye as those? Do you have any DVD-R discs? The program will issue the same 'Reserve Track' command when they're being used. If it doesn't get hung up when using those, your system appears to be able to process the command - meaning it's the drive that's getting hung up on the discs.

I've no idea... but the command hasn't changed. Please right click the drive selection box, click 'Family Tree', close the prompt and then copy + paste everything from the Log window. Are you sure your discs have always been 'CMCMAG-DI6-000' ?

Reserving track is a single command sent to the drive. If your machine won't process it, it could be down to the controller you've attached it to and/or its drivers.

That disc has been formatted with 'spare areas' enabled. When that's the case, the drive's 'defect management' kicks in and basically verifies the disc as it burns - hence the slow down. You'll have to do another full erase/format on it to get rid of them and turn it off.

What does it say it's doing in the status bar? As note for next time... post the entire log please, not just a bit of it - the window scrolls if you hadn't noticed that.

Try the non compressed version to see if it makes a difference. http://download.imgburn.com/SetupImgBurn_2.5.7.0_NoUPX.exe Sometimes it's a pain to make AV type programs totally turn off - and let's face it, you don't really want to be doing that anyway! You're better off adding ImgBurn.exe as an exception.

Yep, 8x is good.

MCC-003-00 are good discs. It could just be that your drive doesn't like those Plasmon CDs. Not all drives like all discs.

Well, you could try burning in safe mode or booting into Windows XP via Hiren's Boot disc and try it from within that. If it still fails, you've either got a 2nd duff drive or some weird controller issue. I don't know which chipset your laptop ( ? ) uses, but I know some Intel 67 ones had issues with the 3gbps ports until they released the B3 revision of it.

For CDs (assuming they're 48x or 52x), I normally go for 24x. Really it's all down to the drive and media you're using. It being a bootable image makes no difference.

That's the same sort of disc though... I'm trying to get an idea of the errors it's reporting on totally different discs. If you haven't got the logs of the other ones, don't worry - but then I'll just ask you to try some decent Taiyo Yuden CDs, cleaning the drive etc. First log... Second log...

If that's a log from just 1 of the discs you've tried, please post the other logs too.

It's only a tweaked Windows icon so I can't really have a problem with you using it The one you linked to wasn't very good quality, you can extract a better one directly from the exe if you wish.

lol you should expect 0! If the cleaning doesn't help, you might want to try getting a refund on the drive!

Yes, that's what I needed to see, thanks. Going back to the disc the log in post # 1 belongs to, what happens if you put it back in the drive now? When you're back on the main 'Write' mode screen (or if you're in 'Build' mode, look on the 'Device' tab), what does it list in the disc info box on the right? Copy + paste it all please. At the moment, your drive seems to be going through the entire process of burning the disc (and is reporting 'success' the entire time), but the resulting disc still appears to be blank. AMD controllers/drivers can do weird things to optical drives and as their Windows 8 drivers are probably quite immature, I have even less faith in them than normal. If you have any decent Verbatim (MCC or MKM mid/dye) or Taiyo Yuden discs, please post another log from when you've burnt those at 8x.

If you haven't already done so, cleaning the drive (well, the laser in it) may actually help. I did a couple of slimline ones in work the other day with a cotton bud and the remains of some disc cleaning solution. They worked fine after that

http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=21027 Good luck!

How did you end up buying a drive today that has firmware dating back to 2006?! eBay I guess I can see in the log that it's changing its mind about the supported write speeds for the TYG02 media. That's never a good sign. Have you tried the 'MCC-004-00' discs at 8x?

Your drive seems to have some problem with the discs you're using. TYG02 are normally excellent (assuming they aren't fake) so I'm not sure why it's having problems! If it's failed on a few different discs, it's probably more the drive than the media. Try cleaning it with a cleaning disc (or manually if you're careful).

With a decent iHAS (or clone) drive and decent discs (even Verbs have bad spindles), there's no reason leaving ImgBurn on its default settings and simply enabling FHT on the drive wouldn't produce decent results on MKM-003-00 media at 4x. For MKM-001-00, enable overspeed on the drive too and burn at 4x (rather than the normal maximum of 2.4x). As you know, I have done loads of testing on loads of drives and what I've said above has always done the trick. People get waaaaay too caught up in all the other rubbish people try and pedal around on various forums. Some random person (who knows next to nothing) makes a comment and suddenly it's THE truth. Yeah right! The software basically plays no part in the burn beyond sending it the data. It's no different to me telling you to write 'Hello' on a bit of paper. How you write it (capitals, size, colour etc) is down to you. The drive/firmware/media combo are what determine if you'll get a good burn or not. Burning is an internal drive process - that's why new firmware releases come out to improve things. You'll never see a software update saying it's improved burn quality.

There's code specifically making it do what it does now... so I probably did it for a good reason at the time! It's trivial to make it behave how you want it to, I just don't want to make it work that way and then mess it up for people happy with how it is now. I may need to add another option to control it - unless my testing (which I'll start on soon) proves it isn't necessary.

I didn't say there was a way to do it, I said with the right settings (and these are drive settings - nothing to do with ImgBurn), it isn't required. That is to say, there's no benefit from clearing it - quite the opposite in fact.