LIGHTNING UK!

Try the non compressed version to see if it makes a difference. http://download.imgburn.com/SetupImgBurn_2.5.7.0_NoUPX.exe Sometimes it's a pain to make AV type programs totally turn off - and let's face it, you don't really want to be doing that anyway! You're better off adding ImgBurn.exe as an exception.

Yep, 8x is good.

MCC-003-00 are good discs. It could just be that your drive doesn't like those Plasmon CDs. Not all drives like all discs.

Well, you could try burning in safe mode or booting into Windows XP via Hiren's Boot disc and try it from within that. If it still fails, you've either got a 2nd duff drive or some weird controller issue. I don't know which chipset your laptop ( ? ) uses, but I know some Intel 67 ones had issues with the 3gbps ports until they released the B3 revision of it.

For CDs (assuming they're 48x or 52x), I normally go for 24x. Really it's all down to the drive and media you're using. It being a bootable image makes no difference.

That's the same sort of disc though... I'm trying to get an idea of the errors it's reporting on totally different discs. If you haven't got the logs of the other ones, don't worry - but then I'll just ask you to try some decent Taiyo Yuden CDs, cleaning the drive etc. First log... Second log...

If that's a log from just 1 of the discs you've tried, please post the other logs too.

It's only a tweaked Windows icon so I can't really have a problem with you using it The one you linked to wasn't very good quality, you can extract a better one directly from the exe if you wish.

lol you should expect 0! If the cleaning doesn't help, you might want to try getting a refund on the drive!

Yes, that's what I needed to see, thanks. Going back to the disc the log in post # 1 belongs to, what happens if you put it back in the drive now? When you're back on the main 'Write' mode screen (or if you're in 'Build' mode, look on the 'Device' tab), what does it list in the disc info box on the right? Copy + paste it all please. At the moment, your drive seems to be going through the entire process of burning the disc (and is reporting 'success' the entire time), but the resulting disc still appears to be blank. AMD controllers/drivers can do weird things to optical drives and as their Windows 8 drivers are probably quite immature, I have even less faith in them than normal. If you have any decent Verbatim (MCC or MKM mid/dye) or Taiyo Yuden discs, please post another log from when you've burnt those at 8x.

If you haven't already done so, cleaning the drive (well, the laser in it) may actually help. I did a couple of slimline ones in work the other day with a cotton bud and the remains of some disc cleaning solution. They worked fine after that

http://forum.imgburn.com/index.php?showtopic=21027 Good luck!

How did you end up buying a drive today that has firmware dating back to 2006?! eBay I guess I can see in the log that it's changing its mind about the supported write speeds for the TYG02 media. That's never a good sign. Have you tried the 'MCC-004-00' discs at 8x?

Your drive seems to have some problem with the discs you're using. TYG02 are normally excellent (assuming they aren't fake) so I'm not sure why it's having problems! If it's failed on a few different discs, it's probably more the drive than the media. Try cleaning it with a cleaning disc (or manually if you're careful).

With a decent iHAS (or clone) drive and decent discs (even Verbs have bad spindles), there's no reason leaving ImgBurn on its default settings and simply enabling FHT on the drive wouldn't produce decent results on MKM-003-00 media at 4x. For MKM-001-00, enable overspeed on the drive too and burn at 4x (rather than the normal maximum of 2.4x). As you know, I have done loads of testing on loads of drives and what I've said above has always done the trick. People get waaaaay too caught up in all the other rubbish people try and pedal around on various forums. Some random person (who knows next to nothing) makes a comment and suddenly it's THE truth. Yeah right! The software basically plays no part in the burn beyond sending it the data. It's no different to me telling you to write 'Hello' on a bit of paper. How you write it (capitals, size, colour etc) is down to you. The drive/firmware/media combo are what determine if you'll get a good burn or not. Burning is an internal drive process - that's why new firmware releases come out to improve things. You'll never see a software update saying it's improved burn quality.

There's code specifically making it do what it does now... so I probably did it for a good reason at the time! It's trivial to make it behave how you want it to, I just don't want to make it work that way and then mess it up for people happy with how it is now. I may need to add another option to control it - unless my testing (which I'll start on soon) proves it isn't necessary.

I didn't say there was a way to do it, I said with the right settings (and these are drive settings - nothing to do with ImgBurn), it isn't required. That is to say, there's no benefit from clearing it - quite the opposite in fact.

With the right settings, this isn't required.

Hmm, there's no way around this at the moment I'm afraid. It'll use the initial location (or the one you're prompted to pick if no initial location is present) for the entire duration of the batch read operation.

Until you provide me with the info I asked for (in post #4), I can't really begin to help. Also, what you may think are 'different' discs could end up being exactly the same thing but with a different brand name stamped on them.

You may think it looks that way, but it isn't.

If your machine basically stops responding after ImgBurn issues the first write command (so it just shows 'Writing LeadIn'), it's probably driver related. Right click the drive selection box and pick 'Family Tree' off the context menu please. Close the prompt and then copy+paste all the info from the Log window.

Post the Family Tree info please. You can find that by right clicking on the drive selection box and picking the 'Family Tree' option off the context menu. Just close the prompt and then copy+paste it all from the Log window.

Post the log please, not a screenshot. Right now, it just looks like your drive has an issue with the discs you're using (at the write speed you've selected anyway).

I've no idea, you'll have to find that info elsewhere. In general though, nobody buys/uses DVD-R DL discs, they all buy/use DVD+R DL discs. Either way, your drive doesn't support the DVD-R DL ones so they're useless to you unless you've got another drive somewhere?