LIGHTNING UK!

Right, so the problem is with whatever this thing is... Some USB device you've got plugged in?

You may have had some other codecs installed on that PC which could handle the files ok.

If you have other mp3 files on your system, pick 10 totally random ones and double check the DirectShow filter stuff on those too please. It would be nice to see at least 1 of them working through DirectShow and may give us some insight as to why the ones you're trying there haven't worked. Normally, when DirectShow fails to process an MP3, it's because of the tagging system used in the file (or because it's mono etc. and can't convert to stereo).

Sorry, it's unclear if you have tried higher than 8x? 8x is the lowest supported speed, so any attempt to use something slower than that will just result in it burning at 8x anyway. Perhaps give 24x a go? If that doesn't work either, try cleaning the drive with a cleaning disc. After that you can either try some Taiyo Yuden discs or get yourself another drive.

It's the dye/MID of the disc that's important, not the brand name. So yeah, they probably just switched the product they stamped their name on.

You did have one of the mp3 files you'd added to the 'Create CUE' window selected at the time yeah? Assuming you did, if nothing came up/was listed then it means it's not using any DirectShow filters and must have fallen back to the ACM method because DirectShow couldn't decode the file.

Eh? The entire file is about how to control ImgBurn via the command prompt/line.

All the command line stuff can be found in the ReadMe.txt file that lives alongside ImgBurn.exe

No, because ImgBurn doesn't read them. It reads the command line parameters. All you could do is something like this (*untested*)... set write_speed=8x ImgBurn /SPEED %write_speed%

Maybe your drive doesn't support them? The disc info certainly looks messed up and is missing stuff.

I can only assume it's something to do with the filters being used. When you've added an mp3 to the 'Create CUE' window, right click it and bring up the directshow filters list. Let me know what's listed please.

If doing it like that makes it easier for you to read later on, fair enough. Personally, I don't think it really needs to be dumbed down any more. You can see the speed in the command line parameters easily enough and having a variable at the top of the file that you can change doesn't really help.

Thanks, I'll look into it.

There is no 'auto', AWS just means the AWS feature is active. If you haven't configured it, it burns at MAX speed. If you *have* configured it, just change /SPEED 8x to /SPEED AWS

Sorry, I forgot to say that it needs to be copied to where ImgBurn.exe lives. Or change it slightly so it says "%ProgramFiles(x86)%\ImgBurn\ImgBurn.exe" at the start of those lines instead of just ImgBurn.exe. Don't forget the quotes around that path name though oh and if you're using a 32 bit OS and not a 64 bit one, you might just need... "%ProgramFiles%\ImgBurn\ImgBurn.exe"

No. All that's required here is a batch file with those 2 lines in it. If you're doing something beyond that which requires you to 'master' the batch programming language, so be it.

It's exactly what I posted above in post 18. Right click on your desktop and select 'New' -> 'Text Document'. Edit the name so it says something like 'Copy Disc.bat' - Note that if you don't have Explorer set to show file extensions, this won't work as you won't be able to change the file extension from .txt to .bat. Right click your new 'Copy Disc.bat' file and select 'Edit'. It'll open up in Notepad. Copy + paste the 2 lines I provided in post #18. Close Notepad and make sure you save the file when prompted. That's it.

If you knew anything at all about batch files, you'd have made one using the info I provided earlier in about 2 seconds. It's ok to have no clue about something, just don't pretend that you do.

If you've tried multiple methods of creating the ISO and even the original disc doesn't play (or at least 'rip' correctly), I don't really understand how you've ended up here on the ImgBurn forum? Try the forums for the other tools you've mentioned, this problem is certainly not anything to do with ImgBurn and we can't help you decrypt your disc I'm afraid.

A disc image is a disc image. You can't read everything sector by sector AND be more efficient. If you want an efficient ISO (where extra padding has been removed and it's no longer 1:1), just build a new ISO. Use 'Build' mode and point the 'Source' at your optical drive (i.e. D:\ or whatever).

You have to make it. It's not an 'ImgBurn' batch file, batch files have been around since time began. I suggest you Google what they are, how they work and how to create/write one.

That's what Task Scheduler is for.

All you need is a batch file doing this... ImgBurn.exe /MODE READ /SRC D: /DEST "C:\TempImage.iso" /START /CLOSE ImgBurn.exe /MODE WRITE /SRC "C:\TempImage.iso" /DEST E: /SPEED 8x /COPIES 1 /VERIFY YES /ERASE /START /WAITFORMEDIA /CLOSE /DELETEIMAGE YES /SHUTDOWN That'll read the disc in drive D: to a temporary image file on your C: drive. It'll then burn that image to a disc in drive E:, delete the image file, close the program and shut down your computer. Double click the batch file and go to work.

Adrianvdh, I've told you before about xbox chat - stop it! This forum is about getting discs burnt+verified and that's it. Playback issues are not our concern. If you want to try and help people with xbox stuff, go and help them on an xbox forum.

The iHAS (and 'clone' ones) that offer the eeprom / advanced settings are probably the best ones to get. They're the ones that actually let you configure stuff and enabling 'Force HyperTuning' seemed pretty vital during testing. I can't speak for the drive internals. EDIT: Of course the Optiarc 5280S-CB-PLUS/ROBOT drives are good too. No messing with those, they just work fine for overburning MKM-003-00 discs.